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Teng & Bahco Miniature Socket Sets

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Vincent This post is not being displayed because the poster is banned. Unhide this post / all posts.

stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:51 - 23 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The question is, what 17 or 19mm fasteners would you need to adjust on the bike that can't be easily reached with a conventional spanner?

Another option is a set of tube spanners. Remarkably effective and compact.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 23 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

1/4" sockets likely wont have the strength to undo a 19mm fastener, anyway 17mm+ heads are not too common on a bike and there are far more useful tools to have under seat. I dont like the set you link, 7mm and smaller are not useful, same with the few hex bits (because you should have a proper screwdriver as well). Its missing 14mm and 15mm which are very common. The plastic case wont last long and wastes space.

Buy a cheap set of toolstation/silverline spanners and chop in half to keep under seat, they can get in tight places and if needed a tube extension will undo the rest and take little space.

I replace most my bike fasteners with 12.9 grade socket cap head bolts, for two reasons - a small selection of allen keys can undo pretty much anything, and they are very small. Second, 12.9 cap bolts will not deform, and with enough force, you will always get them out (or round the key, which are cheap enough to replace).
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:37 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:

I replace most my bike fasteners with 12.9 grade socket cap head bolts, for two reasons - a small selection of allen keys can undo pretty much anything, and they are very small. Second, 12.9 cap bolts will not deform, and with enough force, you will always get them out (or round the key, which are cheap enough to replace).


BUT, if they're going into alloy, the point where they are done up tight enough to not come undone is perilously close to the point where you strip the thread. Especially in smaller fittings.

"The rules" say you're also not supposed to use a 12,9 with a nut, only into a tapped hole.

You should probably be using 8,8s and torx heads...

My tool kit has a set of tube spanners and set of double-ended stubby spanners that covers everything from 7 to 22. I can use the bigger tube over the end of the stubbies to lengthen the leverage. The tubes fit inside one another.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 10:55 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had a Snap-on 1/4 drive socket and hex set for about 25 years. It is the most used out of my tools for working on the bike, good for anything up to 13mm.

It's small, light, easy to use and gives you a better feel for what is going on. Helps to prevent over tightening because the ratchet doesn't have huge leverage. Wouldn't want to be without it in the toolbox.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 12:00 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
BUT, if they're going into alloy, the point where they are done up tight enough to not come undone is perilously close to the point where you strip the thread. Especially in smaller fittings.


No the point of not coming undone depends on material, and any steel bolt in soft alu it will be relatively similar as it will not be the bolt that deforms elastically to provide the locking torque. Also threadlock where appropriate. You do not use the full 12.9 torque in alu and Ive never stripped threads or had stuff loosen.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:41 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:

No the point of not coming undone depends on material, and any steel bolt in soft alu it will be relatively similar as it will not be the bolt that deforms elastically to provide the locking torque. Also threadlock where appropriate. You do not use the full 12.9 torque in alu


I would dispute all of that.

The tightness of a fastener is determined by the fastener material, not the material it's being screwed into.

Perhaps an actual engineer will be along to confirm.

You're not supposed to be using threadlock on 12,9s either.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 15:51 - 24 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
Another tool I've only just noticed......although they've probably been about ages....... are extra wide jaws, slim, adjustable spanners


Now that would be handy. I have a small adjustable spanner in the toolkit under the seat but one with wider jaws is more useful.

This kind of thing?

https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjAwWDYwMA==/z/Ih0AAMXQVT9TELhe/$_57.JPG
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 12:37 - 25 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:

No the point of not coming undone depends on material, and any steel bolt in soft alu it will be relatively similar as it will not be the bolt that deforms elastically to provide the locking torque. Also threadlock where appropriate. You do not use the full 12.9 torque in alu


stinkwheel wrote:
I would dispute all of that.

The tightness of a fastener is determined by the fastener material, not the material it's being screwed into.

Perhaps an actual engineer will be along to confirm.

You're not supposed to be using threadlock on 12,9s either.


A bolt needs to be under tension to stay tight. In the case of a 12.9 bolt the tension required will be upto 90% load. This load should be on the bolt NOT on the material it goes into.

In short a 12.9 bolt is so strong that being bolted into Aluminium it can never be truly tight because to be so you would rip the thread out.

Elastic deformation of the bolt is always preferable to elastic deformation of the workpiece, it's always cheaper and easier to replace a bolt than it is a crankcase for example.

You can I believe use threadlock on a 12.9 but not lock washers, they are too hard for the lock washer to bite into. It would always be preferable to use the correct rated bolt to get correct tightness than it would be to use an over rated bolt and threadlock.

All remembered from engineering at school 20+ years ago so may or may not be correct Wink
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talkToTheHat
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PostPosted: 13:38 - 26 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sickpup is spot on. 12.9s need to be done up to a higher torque than 8.8s or they come loose. Not really a good idea to replace bolts going into expensive aluminium parts with ones more likely to cause stripping.

The amount of design effort that goes into high performance vehicles where excess material is excess weight and undesireable is such that it's a bad idea to mess with fastening specification.

Unless racing and equipped with a big budget for replacing fastenings and some design effort has gone into torque settings for new fastenings, don't go there, as the best you're looking at is false economy.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 16:47 - 26 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

talkToTheHat wrote:
Sickpup is spot on.


Good to know I can still remember what I was taught 25 years ago, thank you. Thumbs Up
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 22:16 - 26 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

talkToTheHat wrote:
Sickpup is spot on. 12.9s need to be done up to a higher torque than 8.8s or they come loose. Not really a good idea to replace bolts going into expensive aluminium parts with ones more likely to cause stripping.

The amount of design effort that goes into high performance vehicles where excess material is excess weight and undesireable is such that it's a bad idea to mess with fastening specification.

Unless racing and equipped with a big budget for replacing fastenings and some design effort has gone into torque settings for new fastenings, don't go there, as the best you're looking at is false economy.


No, wrong, as it depends on the material. I did not say there would be any advantage in terms of clamping force or weight. Grade of bolt does not significantly affect weight. I also said it would be tightened the same amount. Bolt acts like a spring, it is not the stretch of the bolt that holds it tight, the clamping force holds it tight. For the same force a higher grade will stretch less as a bigger spring. Aluminium being soft is a large advantage when clamping parts together with a bolt, holding parts well at low force. For the same tightness there is no great difference in elastic deformation of the female thread 8.8 or 12.9 grade bolt, it is very similar and not going to rip threads.

Sickpup a lot more than 20 years ago Laughing
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MCN
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PostPosted: 00:55 - 27 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

This https://www.andystrapz.com/products-details.php?productId=201 was half the price on amazon.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bahco-2058S26-Ratchet-Socket-26-Piece/dp/B000Y8TIMY/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1443315380&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=Bahco+s26+Mini+Ratchet+tool+kit

Excellent tool. Thumbs Up

A factor to be considered when applying Bolt torque is the clamping force of the bolt.
|The resistance to deformation of the part by the clamping force of the fastener acting on it can determine what grade the fasteners should be.

That is where some design requires lube and some specifically dry.
Lube can double the clamping force and deform the part beyond designed limits and cause failure.
That is well before the fastener gets to its limit.

I higher grade fasteners aren't always of any benefit.
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talkToTheHat
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PostPosted: 01:52 - 27 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:

No, wrong, as it depends on the material. I did not say there would be any advantage in terms of clamping force or weight. Grade of bolt does not significantly affect weight.

Unless swapping in titanium or similar for racing applications which requires much care, which was the random tangent i was going down.

Quote:

I also said it would be tightened the same amount. Bolt acts like a spring, it is not the stretch of the bolt that holds it tight, the clamping force holds it tight. For the same force a higher grade will stretch less as a bigger spring.


And herein lies your problem, tightening torques on a bike are often marginal, tightening to the same torque will mean your big spring on your high tensile bolt is compressed less, and a little movement or deformation and your hight tensile bolt is suddenly a lot less tight.

Tightening by angle is really dangerous when bolt specifications have been swapped as for a given angle the clamping force may be much higher. Dealing with a technician that disregards torque settings in favour of "about that much beyond finger tight" is one of my least favourite conversations. Briefly worked on some very high pressure gas systems used in extreme environments, had a good few failures that way.

It is usually factored into a design that a part secured with higher tensile bolts will need the bolts tightening to a higher tensile strength, most of the time you can get away with swapping a 12.9 for an 8.8. In a high vibration environment, extra caution is required.

Quote:

Aluminium being soft is a large advantage when clamping parts together with a bolt, holding parts well at low force. For the same tightness there is no great difference in elastic deformation of the female thread 8.8 or 12.9 grade bolt, it is very similar and not going to rip threads.


And how many times have we seen a thread ripped out on a sump plug or engine case bolt? Aluminium is annoyingly delicate.[/quote]
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 08:34 - 27 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Sickpup a lot more than 20 years ago Laughing


I don't actually understand this comment, please explain?

You really don't understand what is being said do you, effectively you are making the item you bolt in to a sacrificial part do to using over rated bolts. I really hope for your sake you are not replacing safety critical bolts as that could get very terminal.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 18:42 - 27 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
Jewlio Iglesias wrote:


Can you recommend a decent one that covers up to 65ish mm?


I can't.....I know as little about them as you. To get one to open that size though, you're probably going to have to go for one with a bigger handle. What's it for? Something on a bike? That's pretty big Thinking

Important thing with adjustables is to make sure they're screwed up as much as possible if you're trying to undo something really tight. Get the head on the nut and then, while very slightly wiggling the spanner up and down, tighten that last litte bit. They can be a bit of a struggle getting off again if you use this method but it'll stop them slipping........ as they can when not tight enough.


65mm Shifter will maybe require a crane or two strong boys to lift it. Smile

https://extranet.snaeurope.com/ProdBlock.aspx?sectionID=21&CatalogueID=5

Bacho invented the Shifter and make damn good tools (apart from their hacksaws)
Bacho 97C 7314150128211 750mm long and weighs 5.5kg Very Happy
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