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Suzuki gp100 6 volt electrics

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stevenc370
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Joined: 17 Oct 2014
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PostPosted: 18:13 - 01 Oct 2015    Post subject: Suzuki gp100 6 volt electrics Reply with quote

Got my little suzuki running after 12 years in storage problem lies with the rear light. The tail light and brake light both work independently but not together so when the tail light is on when I press the brake switch the lights dim rather than brighten up any ideas anyone??
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stinkwheel
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:35 - 01 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as I'm aware, the brake light and tail light on a GP100 ought to run off entirely seperate and independant circuits.

The head and tail light run on an AC direct lighting circuit (so they only run when the engine is on and brighten as you rev it).

The brake light runs off a DC powered circuit from the battery.

So, if they both work properly in isolation (bright tail light with engine running. Bright stop light with and without the engine running), the only place the two circuits SHOULD meet is at the earth connection.

I'd therefore suspect a bad earth. Japanese bikes of that era have notoriously badly earthed taillight clusters. FInd the earth connection (often a mucky ring terminal trapped under the rusty bolt holding the corroded rear mudguard to the rotting subframe spar) and give it a damned good clean so you have shiny metal of the terminal contacting shiny metal of the frame.

Also check out the earths on the bulb holder.
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davebike
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PostPosted: 08:41 - 02 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probable poor earth connection or poorly fitting bulb
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 08:52 - 02 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

It occurrs to me that a defective rectifier could also cause similar symptoms. If that were the case, the indicators and horn wouldn't work.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 08:53 - 02 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I add to the above comments, earth.

My CG was a 6 volter and the lights improved a lot when I went through replacing totally rotten terminals at the rear.
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stevenc370
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PostPosted: 15:26 - 02 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah well I have removed the battery. I didn't know it ran off a dc circuit. I going to run a live from the ac lighting circuit to the top of the brake light switch see if I can set it going. I'm going for the cafe racer look so didn't really want a battery.Hopefully it will work
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:52 - 02 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevenc370 wrote:
Ah well I have removed the battery. I didn't know it ran off a dc circuit. I going to run a live from the ac lighting circuit to the top of the brake light switch see if I can set it going. I'm going for the cafe racer look so didn't really want a battery.Hopefully it will work


It wont. I can garauntee you that now.

Your AC circuit needs to have a fixed current draw. Too much and the bulbs will be dull, too little and the bulbs will pop. You may have noticed both the beam and dip filaments on your headlight bulb are the same wattage. When you're using the side-light there is a ballast resistor to take up the slack.

The DC circuit has no voltage regulator, it relies on the battery to even out the half-rectified output. If you try to run it without a battery it'll pop the bulbs at high revs.

You MIGHT get away with a big capacitor in place of the 6v battery to keep things evened out. I don't know enough about them to recommend a type and to know if they risk exploding if it goes over-voltage.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stevenc370
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Joined: 17 Oct 2014
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PostPosted: 18:32 - 02 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right what do you think to taking the live from the battery charging circuit straight to the brake light switch. This live has the rectifier on it to change over to dc so should power the light it's essentially the same circuit just without a battery in between could possibly put a resistor in there to take up what voltage would have been used in the battery
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