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Antifreeze

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Ariel Badger
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Joined: 02 Dec 2006
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 21 Nov 2015    Post subject: Antifreeze Reply with quote
Temperature is about to take a dive please do not get caught out, is your motor protected?
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NJD
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Joined: 11 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 19:12 - 21 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
I keep trying to preach this at work, even more so to the one friend who recently started driving for the first time. When I asked "have you got any tools in the car?" the answer was a swift "no". Also drives off with windows still fogged up that you can't see out off. Someone's going to have fun. Rolling Eyes Laughing

It's at this time of year I enjoy watching everyone in the work car park flapping around because they don't have any de-icer and so on, excuse me while I wipe my mirrors and clocks and get on my way. Very Happy
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Burnzy1989
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Joined: 06 Apr 2009
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PostPosted: 21:42 - 21 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
It's starting too freez, iv all ready had a wheel spin off the junction that's all ways first to freez at the very moment of the idea of frost lol
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MCN
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PostPosted: 23:35 - 21 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
Too late -2ºC in Glesga last night. Very Happy
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roadracejoe
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PostPosted: 03:17 - 22 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
What's the best antifreeze/coolant to run in a DT125 ?
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Burnzy1989
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PostPosted: 09:47 - 22 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
[quote="roadracejoe"]What's the best antifreeze/coolant to run in a DT125 ?[/quote

There really is no best anti freez as the most important thing is that your mixture ratio is 50% water and 50% coolant as having it neat will cause it to freez. So really all you need is a coolant tester to check what the freezing point of your coolant is at. Ow and depending if your using the oat coolant which is red you don't need to change is as often as the blue or green coolant which is ever two years.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 10:11 - 22 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
Burnzy1989 wrote:
roadracejoe wrote:
What's the best antifreeze/coolant to run in a DT125 ?


There really is no best anti freez as the most important thing is that your mixture ratio is 50% water and 50% coolant as having it neat will cause it to freez.


Rubbish.
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Last edited by Pete. on 16:02 - 22 Nov 2015; edited 1 time in total
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Taught2BCauti...
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PostPosted: 10:30 - 22 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
roadracejoe wrote:
What's the best antifreeze/coolant to run in a DT125 ?


Use the one specified in the owner's manual - because Anti-Freeze also contains lubricants for internal seals and hoses, and additives to prevent corrosion.
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Robby
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Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 12:17 - 22 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
The only important thing is the colour - so if it currently has blue antifreeze, get some more blue.

It is possible that different colours may react with each other - they are a different chemical. This may just be internet rumour, but not something I would want to confirm the hard way. If you are going to change colour you need to fully rinse out the system. In reality this means draining, flushing through everything, then running it up a few times on plain water until it drains clear. Then refill with your chosen new colour.

This is a pain in the arse. I've done it on cars when I want to run them on red (long life) coolant, but on bikes I would change it every two years anyway.

Also, I recommend buying ready-mixed coolant. You'll save about £2.50 using concentrate and doing a lot more cocking around.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 12:27 - 22 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
Robby wrote:


Also, I recommend buying ready-mixed coolant. You'll save about £2.50 using concentrate and doing a lot more cocking around.


+1 for that. No messing, no using water, just top up with the readymix and you don't have to worry about what percentage you have. Thumbs Up
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roadracejoe
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PostPosted: 15:05 - 22 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
Polarbear wrote:
Robby wrote:


Also, I recommend buying ready-mixed coolant. You'll save about £2.50 using concentrate and doing a lot more cocking around.


+1 for that. No messing, no using water, just top up with the readymix and you don't have to worry about what percentage you have. Thumbs Up
by ready mixed do you mean the stuff they sell in poundland? Is it suitable for alloy?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:09 - 22 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
Pete. wrote:
Rubbish.


^^^ Helpful.

Shocked

Very Happy

On topic.

The colour is not simple 'the colour'

The colour can be used to indicate the 'type' of chemical used if you have enough information from a manufacturer.

Methanol (Alcohol) (Not commonly used now for engine protection.)
Ethylene Glycol (Most commonly used for engine protection)
Propylyne Glycol (Less toxic so more suited to food process-like duties)

Glycol

+1 for a quality premix. And ensure it states how much inhibitor is added. There are a lot of shite/cheaper products that do not have this vital component.
Since there's little regulation the market is wide open to abuse.

Dealers would be the best if you have any doubt but you will be raped unless they do a winter deal sort of thing on it. SOme do it to get you in the door. (But don't buy a car or a bike when you are in there. Be strong.)

If you are changing coolant then flush the system with water before adding the new coolant.

Coolant needs to be changed as it can deteriorate with age/use.
There are newer compounds that are more or less lifetime as opposed to the basic glycol 'long-life' types.

Old coolant which provide freezing protection when tested doesn't mean it is still good.
You must consider that some of the protective additives have degraded/changed to other harmful compounds and are no longer protecting.

Three years is normal for good 'longlife' and the age of the engine for 'Lifetime'.
But chemical/freeze testing is recommended to be sure.

Old stye alcohol antifreeze needed a change every year as the alcohol burned off in use. Sad
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 22 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
Vincent wrote:
It's a good idea when you're changing the coolant to have a look what's going on inside the coolant system and making sure there's not too much "furring up", (corrosion), going on. Inside the top of the rad is the usual place to look but if you can't get into the rad, remove an easily accessable hose from the engine and look in there around the join to see if there's a build up of limescale. It doesn't take much furring up to seriously affect the proficiency of the cooling system...not that it will matter here until the warm weather comes back.........It's also worth checking hoses and clips.

On the subject of cooling.......there was a bloke on the VFR forum the other week who was having weird problems with the cooling system on his bike...it wasn't warming up properly and he thought he'd have to replace the thermostat, (biggish job as it sits under the carbs) .....turned out the problem was the Aftermarket hoses the PO had fitted that were cooling off to much and not letting the bike reach optimal running temp.


^^^ That doesn't compute. Smile

The engine temperature is controlled by the Engine Temperature Regulator (Thermostat/Thermostatic Valve).
As the engine heats up the heat passed to the coolant, as it is circulated around the block and head (by the pump), by-passes the thermostat and is directed back into the engine again. This is to 'force' the engine to warm up very quickly to 'operating Temperature' where it is most efficient.
As the coolant heats up the heat is 'felt' by the thermostat.
When the coolant reaches the 'operating temperature' the thermostat begins to open.
As it opens a small flow of hot coolant is directed to the top of the radiator/heat exchanger.
It flows through the radiator and is cooled by air flow.
It leaves the radiator and is directed back into the engine via the water pump and directed around the engine again.

Over cooling is normally due to the thermostat stuck open. Some engine will never reach operating temperature if that is the case unless worked hard.
Modern cooling systems have massive over capacity so don't need full flow to pass through the radiator for sufficient cooling all the time.

The regulator is a 'working part' and opens and closes depending on engine load etc.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 23 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote
Vincent wrote:
" End of mystery
Well finally my problem has been fixed, after 3 Thermostats, endless hours of scratching my head, trip to the dealer...I can confirm it was the Samco silicone hoses that were too efficient.

I wrapped them in ceramic/fabric tape ( used on headers) and temp is a constant 80c on a 9c day. mileage has greatly improved, no figures yet, but miles compared to fuel gauge movement has drastically improved.

Thanks to all for your help, conclusion: replace hoses with OEM one's and stay away from Samco unless crossing the Sahara".


Still does not compute. Razz

https://www.dansmc.com/watercooling2.htm

I would only believe that if I seen it.

Do you believe it if the person had spent money on posh hoses and thermostats but hadn't fixed the problem and then 'mysteriously' it was the fancy (possibly expensive) hoses that got the blame?

Fishy is all I'm suggesting.

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