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CG125 Carburettor Replacement

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NinjaSam
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Joined: 22 Oct 2015
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PostPosted: 22:10 - 22 Oct 2015    Post subject: CG125 Carburettor Replacement Reply with quote

Hi all,

I've browsed BCF for many years but, now that I've recently passed my Module 2, I'll hopefully be about a bit more!

I bought myself a little 125 to potter about on between doing my CBT and taking my test, and it's time to give it a little spruce up.

I've bought a brand new (non-OEM) replacement carb on eBay (many, many reviews at 100% rating) that seems perfect for my bike - a 1999 Honda CG125 - only it seems to suggest that my old carbuerttor has an 'accelerator pump,' which this carb promises to replace. The new carb is lacking a socket for a cable, which I'm assuming is accelerator related?

TLDR; how do I go about replacing the carb and do I need to worry about tying up the old cable etc. Anything else I should be aware of whilst making this change from accelerator pump to new-carb-with-all-inclusive-accelerator-doodah?

Thanks in advance, and sorry for waffling!

Sam
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 22 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't bother, seriously don't bother. If the bike is running well stick with it a new carb will do nothing to improve performance over stock. the problem with internal combustion engines is not feeding in fuel but feeding in oxygen and a new carb will not get you more O2. to get more O2 you can do various things such as as supercharger or a turbocharger, NOS injection, O2 injection, running on nitro (top fuel) but all of these will need radical work to the motor ( I am talking £Ks). It is a 125, enjoy it for what it is and then move on to a bigger bike after your DAS.
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smegballs
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Joined: 28 Oct 2007
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PostPosted: 22:59 - 22 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ariel Badger wrote:
Don't bother, seriously don't bother. If the bike is running well stick with it a new carb will do nothing to improve performance over stock. the problem with internal combustion engines is not feeding in fuel but feeding in oxygen and a new carb will not get you more O2. to get more O2 you can do various things such as as supercharger or a turbocharger, NOS injection, O2 injection, running on nitro (top fuel) but all of these will need radical work to the motor ( I am talking £Ks). It is a 125, enjoy it for what it is and then move on to a bigger bike after your DAS.


+1

The CG has a very simple valve train, with one lobe operating both inlet and exhaust valves IIRC. This means that at best valve lift and timing is going to be a big comromise, which is going to be motors limiting factor well before bigger carbs and the like come into play.
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 00:06 - 23 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought the pumper carb was used to stop the engine dying/coughing when cracking the throttle wide open from idle?
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 06:44 - 23 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suntan Sid wrote:
I thought the pumper carb was used to stop the engine dying/coughing when cracking the throttle wide open from idle?
Ish

The accelerator pump, is a little plunger that squirts some extra fuel into the engine making the mixture richer, like putting on the choke', when you open the throttle a bit quick.

The 'non' pumper carb, isn't a 'fix' for anything, really... the CG never had one to begin with!

The 'pumper' carb was a 'fix' for tighter emmission controls, which are measured when the engine is running at constant rpm... so the 'pumper' carb, used smaller jets, to make the engine run incredibly 'weak' to get past the tests... then added the 'pump' to compensate, and render the emission regs a joke, as the thing didn't make any less 'emissions' in the real world, we you use the throttle to change engine revs!

Practically, makes little odds either way, and there shuld be absolutely no inherent 'problem' with a pumper carb. Difference in design, should make bog all odds to any-one apart from a few beurocrats, made happy with a certificate telling them the thig past a meaniless test.

In operation? IF you ride big miles, at near constant throttle, and speed, then the leaner jetting of the pumper carb MIGHT, offer infinitesimally tiny mpg advantage. Non-Pumper, with richer jetting, might sacrifice an infinitesimally tiny amount of constant speed, constant throttle mpg, but likely to gain a bit 'round town' when changing speeds will see the pumper not squirting in an Excess of extra fuel, to make up for the restricted jetting on a very crude basis, and the carb will meter fuel mix 'better' from the jets, making it a tad more responsive.... which you could get dis-coupling the pumper cable from a pumper and fitting the right size jets to it!

Absolutely NOTHING really to be gained swapping between either type; and only worth buying a brand new carb if the old one is completely knackered... which they rarely are, they are just a block of metal with some holes in it, for the most part, there's very few moving parts to wear out, so they rarely do!

If you must swap them? Then buy a new, single pull cable for an older 'non-pumper' model CG. It would probably make more of a difference to the bikes throttle response, having a nice new, cable that isn't stretched or gummed up in it's sleeve, than the carb will!

Otherwise; there should be a 'splitter' on your twin-pull cable somewhere under the tank. Plastc tube, and one cable going in, two coming out. Inside the cable from the twist-grip will pull on a plastic plunger that goes up and down in the sleeve; 2 cables that go to the carb, will come n the bottom and hook into that plunger so that the twst-grip cable pulls on both of them.

Identfy the pumper cable in that assembly, and remove it; cos without being attached the other end to the accelerator pump, there will be nothing to pull it back down after the twst grip has pulled it up, and it will be acting like a brake on the plunger, so when you roll off the throttle, it might 'jam' open, or loose end of unused cable could snag on something to jam throttle - so best to just remove completely.
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NinjaSam
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Joined: 22 Oct 2015
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PostPosted: 08:03 - 23 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies everyone. Just to be clear, I've already done my DAS and have a full licence, and the carburettor is not working properly. It only runs on half choke - trying to run with the choke off merely turns the engine off. I've tried adjusting the (not sure of technical term) 'openness' of the carb but it just doesn't want to work when the carb is fully closed.

I've already bought the new carb for a mere £18, so I'm not too bothered about it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/161459639228

(Sorry if links are not allowed).
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cb1rocket
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Joined: 30 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: 10:31 - 23 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

then clean out the old carb, probably full of crap in the bottom and the jets, take the float bowl off and have a look
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