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South America -> USA - Trip Complete - 2nd Pg Photo Heavy

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Evergreen
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 01 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh god Southern Bolivia!!Smile it was probably the toughest and loneliest raod (if you can call that a road) in South America for me. Great memories though. Kind of like being on another planet...

PM if you need any help in Peru & Colombia, made some great friends over there:)
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TheDonUK
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PostPosted: 05:07 - 08 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah Lagunas Route was tough, but a great sense of accomplishment after the fact.

Thanks for the offer, I may well take you up on that, although it's harder to not make friends here as you know Smile
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Snowdonia Rider
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PostPosted: 08:46 - 08 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheDonUK wrote:
For once I had the GoPro out, so I made a badly edited video from the Death Road / Yungas Road in Bolivia.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7w_Zs17xEQ


Fook me! 2:34, that was a bit close!

Epic adventure mate Thumbs Up
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Mawsley
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PostPosted: 20:11 - 10 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stunning pictures.

It make me want to return to the North. We spent six years in Ven/Colombia/Ecuador - wonderful place to ride...although I'm not so sure about Venezuela nowadays.
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Evergreen
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PostPosted: 11:16 - 11 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's a Camino de la Muerte in pretty much every South American country if you just look for them:) In Colombia, the bit between Pasto and Mocoa is a bit similar to the Yungas road-lots of landslides/rocky bits as well but definitely worth it, only you won't get a t shirt after riding it:) The military/police usually advise not to go through the Putumayo region (apparently that's where the FARC folks hangs out) but that's where all the fun is and it's stunning as well!

P.S. are you riding to Machu Picchu? Lots of people leave bikes in Cuzco and take the train, but the reality is that the road there is perfectly fine. Mostly gravel but again well worth it. And once you reach Hidroelectrica there's a security guard living there, he usually agrees to look after your bike for about 15 soles a day-you can leave the bike there (perfectly safe) and hike along the train tracks to the Jardines de Mandor campsite (much cheaper and nicer than the touristy Aguas Calientes). Oh, and lots of tour guides in Cuzco love telling gringos how they MUST buy the Machu Picchu tickets there - that's bullshit, the Aguas Calientes office always has them and the price is the same/cheaper.

P.P.S do the Canon del Pato if you're heading that way - another Yungas only along an amazing canyon!:)also Chachapoyas - riding Piura is usually kinda boring but the Celendin/Chachapoyas region is awesome/practically no gringos there yet so the locals are still very much willing to help instead of trying to sell you stuff.

Sorry...got excited:)
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TheDonUK
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PostPosted: 18:26 - 13 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah thanks for the info, as you were writing that I was in Machu Picchu hehe. And yea the road to Hidroelectrica is perfectly doable. I opted to instead ride as far as Santa Teresa and had fun on that little 40km stretch, left the bike in a hostal and then took a collectivo to Hidro, also bought my machu picchu tickets in Aguas calientes no problems.

Was interesting to see live traveling from the backpackers point of view. Gotta say i prefer bike traveling.

Yeah lots of people are telling me Chachapoyas is cool, am going to stick to the mountain side of things as i go north up Peru for sure.
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Evergreen
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PostPosted: 07:10 - 14 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

After experiencing a Peruvian collectivo I'd probably prefer walking Mr. Green i did some backpacking in Peru too-couldn't wait to get on the bike after a few days!!

Are you doing the Amazon in Peru? Puerto Maldonado is cheaper than Iquitos and you still get pretty much the same deal-piranha fishing and alligators and the whole 'jungle experience' including Ayahuasca Mr. Green plus you can ride all the way to Maldonado whereas for Iquitos, you need to take the boat. When I was there the gold miners were on strike so the roads were blocked for a while but otherwise a fun ride.

But you're probably ahead already anyway:) do you have a blog? Would be interesting to see where you go:)
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TheDonUK
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PostPosted: 01:10 - 16 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought about it and everyone who I have met who has been into the Jungle says its great.

I just am not a big fan of insects and humidity... Going to leave Cusco on Monday and stick to the mountains on my way north, roughly Ayacucho, Huancayo, (Lima for tyres), Huaraz (Cordilerra Blanca) and ontowards Cajamarca and Chachapoyas. That's the plan anyway.

No blog i'm afraid just a facebook page to keep family and friends in the loop. If i was doing something actually challenging such as riding the darien gap, or doing that pass at the end of the carretera austral from villa o'higgins into argentina, that to me would be blog worthy in my opinion.
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Old Thread Alert!

There is a gap of 1 year, 6 days between these two posts...

TheDonUK
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PostPosted: 04:00 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Success!

I started the trip in September 2015 by flying from London out to Santiago, Chile and buying a brand new CRF250L. I finished up 18 months later selling the Bike in San Francisco, California and flying home in March 2017.

The Route:

South America: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NUM3B28yC67PQS-9Py-ZCpgZX5E&usp=sharing

Central America, Mexico & USA:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1eWEUeFlBMwBxJmAXCmh2NusibVY&usp=sharing

I had saved about 10-12 thousand quid and sold my GSXR-750 and I come back with 140 quid. For that money I got a bunch of experiences and memories that will never be forgotten, I learned a second language, I fell in love, I experimented with many things, I paid numerous bribes (all of them when I was out of line), I lost months of traveling budget overnight due to Brexit, I discovered business opportunities, I did exactly what I wanted every day for 18 months with no obligations to anyone other than to myself. I have seen other possible lifestyles / ways of life that are not possible in the UK.

What did I learn? Well Spanish for one thing, The trip re-affirmed my belief that 90+% of human beings around the world are essentially good people. Go out into the world with Buena Onda (good vibes in Spanish) and it is generally reflected back at you. The negative impressions we have about countries like Colombia and Mexico are fear mongering. Unless you goto these countries as a disrespectful gringo or want to muscle in on the drug business of the cartels you will have no issues and will be shown kindness and hospitality which is rare in the UK.

I would recommend anyone thinking about this kind of trip to do it. Forget the big expensive adventure bikes. Buy something small and cheap that the locals ride, pack lightly, learn spanish and have the time of your life! Highlight Countries were Chile, Colombia and Mexico. The Argentines are still a bit salty over the Falklands...

I am now back in London and just today secured full-time employment. My plan is to work for a year or two and start a a business with some of the contacts I have made out there. Also I can't see my future in the UK anymore, as someone said in another thread we are a seething volcano of rage and resentment.

Happy to answer any questions anyone might have as BCF was probably where i got my first inspiration to ride down to spain on my old bandit 600, and then later to Mongolia and back after seeing Nathan and Itchy's trips. If i can motivate any of you to bugger off to South America all the better Thumbs Up

Some random pictures in no-particular order (Quite a few are displaying in a weird stretched resoultion, if you view them in their source on imgur they should show correctly)

Bolivia, Ruta 25:
https://i.imgur.com/v8PlGzC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Gd89kG6.jpg

Machu Picchu, Peru:
https://i.imgur.com/sq2QW42.jpg

Sacred Valley, Cusco, Peru:
https://i.imgur.com/tfjunpL.jpg

Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia:
https://i.imgur.com/3oBQsob.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KGNpDKo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cKayhIn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FboMeEN.jpg

Lagunas Route, Southern Bolivia:
https://i.imgur.com/cPUI41k.jpg

La Paz, Bolivia:
https://i.imgur.com/FdW7FTX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/vwEDxyx.jpg

Carretera Austral, Patagonia, Chile:
https://i.imgur.com/ClZzoU1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ECiMMeA.jpg

The Most DR650 travel bikes I have seen together:
https://i.imgur.com/mnBTggX.jpg

Salty Argentines banging on about British Pirates not being allowed to dock in port:
https://i.imgur.com/xcATdtM.jpg

Torres Del Paine, Chile
https://i.imgur.com/GFRkOpf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VBg6Wac.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FdsR0uR.jpg
El Chaiten (Mt FitzRoy), Argentina:
https://i.imgur.com/TSrhTs2.jpg

Ruta 40, Northern Argentina:
https://i.imgur.com/KeNZDB2.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/D5xAKIU.jpg

Arequipa, Peru:
https://i.imgur.com/ada3fj6.jpg

Peruvian Highlands:
https://i.imgur.com/F67f4Ds.jpg

Paso Roballos Chile/Argentine Border:
https://i.imgur.com/pn3AP1w.jpg

Quito, Ecuador:
https://i.imgur.com/ax2s4It.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ewuyCDh.jpg

Medellin, Colombia:
https://i.imgur.com/L1qTKpY.jpg

Pablo Escobar's Helipad at La Catedral overlooking Medellin:
https://i.imgur.com/tHIECKE.jpg

Guatape / El Penol, Colombia:
https://i.imgur.com/lg0xMrd.jpg

Taganga / Santa Marta, Colombia:
https://i.imgur.com/8bJ063U.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/LZvMkPw.jpg

San Blas Islands, Crossing the Darian Gap between Colombia and Panama on a Sailboat:
https://i.imgur.com/oSCFlvl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZFq2ZGf.jpg

Panama City / Panama Canal
https://i.imgur.com/cDms5XG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KIyb39h.jpg

Tikal Mayan Ruins, Guatemala:
https://i.imgur.com/F4G18Lz.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/h81omXc.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eZtGmIX.jpg

Coba Mayan Ruins, Tulum, Mexico:
https://i.imgur.com/hvChEg5.jpg

One of the many Cenotes of the Yucatan Peninsula
https://i.imgur.com/qOcSXAv.jpg

Beaches of the Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico (Cancun, Playa Del Carmen, Akumal, Tulum):
https://i.imgur.com/RySDc2t.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ebZx1yX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/h0Pc0Dx.jpg

Merida, Mexico:
https://i.imgur.com/eejKe2C.jpg

Sumidero Canyon, Chiapas, Mexico:
https://i.imgur.com/jzhdbmY.jpg

Hippie Paradise, Zipolite, Oaxaca, Mexico:
https://i.imgur.com/l4YWzRI.jpg

At this point I bought a Samsung S6 Edge to replace my ageing iPhone 4, Started taking pictures more often.

Mexico City, (DF), Mexico. Easily the biggest city I have been to, felt about 3-4 times bigger than London...
https://i.imgur.com/OTxwgMe.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/scerjEr.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qC7kyBd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5zZn0L5.jpg

Guadalajara, Mexico:
https://i.imgur.com/ijhMrLg.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dI1I38w.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/vEMbQcw.jpg

Sinaloa / Mazatlan / Durango, Mexico:
https://i.imgur.com/EmUCSYf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TlG4zva.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GAWYvD8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/UhJx12x.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uPrN95O.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qvnQ6Gh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OI6JNzh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/L0NwNKx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7i29xy6.jpg

Los Angeles, California:
https://i.imgur.com/Dxt7u0t.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/teSrpxi.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/q1P7Jkf.jpg

Santa Cruz, Big Sur, San Jose, San Francisco:
https://i.imgur.com/lgR5U0H.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6xsDN8h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xexXz0g.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/vNspta9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/89g5HSf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YE0ecEA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/W1nwyax.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oyByodV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/vq60RvH.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/L62tVeb.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/S6NPwNc.jpg

Getting my Gun off in the USA:
Beretta 92F 9MM
Glock 21 45 ACP
https://i.imgur.com/8imugLS.jpg
Ruger .22
Walther 9MM
Kimber 45 ACP
Magnum .44
https://i.imgur.com/8QMiRg2.jpg

Oregon, Seattle / Pacific North West
https://i.imgur.com/y0EO7qp.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yFikgHR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZuLYjCd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YcaI7ru.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/wzOkjjQ.jpg
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arry
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PostPosted: 07:11 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Epic. Thanks for sharing.
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Northern Monkey
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PostPosted: 07:42 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow. Just wow
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 10:06 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great trip, great photos and a great read. Thumbs Up
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recman
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PostPosted: 10:23 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another real adventure. Excellent pics. Thumbs Up
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 11:41 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Impressed Pepperami is impressed Thumbs Up
Tell me, did you have any personal safety issues.? For example, baddies trying to steal your stuff?
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chickenstrip
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PostPosted: 12:27 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Increíble!

There are some folks who can't understand those who sell and give up everything to go on trips such as this. If they still can't understand it after looking through this thread, there must be something very, very wrong with them. Personally, I am muy jealous!
Well done, and thank you for posting it all here DonUK. Inspiring stuff Thumbs Up

P.S. Just thinking about your mention in an earlier post of not having done anything particularly challenging or new on this adventure. I would say that to the vast majority of us, this trip is interesting enough to warrant a more in-depth account. There are loads of books about people's travels out there that are completely uninspiring to read. A lot of what makes such travel tales interesting is the personality and writing style of the author, not necessarily what they actually did or saw. If you write well, it will be worth reading. I have said elsewhere that I found Nick Sanders' R1 round-the-world video boring. That certainly isn't because of where he went; just his 'style' of narration, and the fact that he didn't seem to have anything to say about those places. Just a thought Smile
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waffles
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PostPosted: 14:00 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would definitely like to hear more, those pictures are stunning.
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Enduro Numpty
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PostPosted: 14:13 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stunning photographs and epic travels. Thanks again for sharing. Like chickenstrip says, if you've got the ability to write well there's definitely a book in there that I'd read.
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TheDonUK
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PostPosted: 16:28 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for nice comments guys, In regards to a writeup/book, I think i will almost certainly do an more indepth write-up at some point, probably as the reality of settling into a boring work-life dawns on me as a way to relive my adventure. I have had lots of people tell me to write a book etc. Problem is, i am not a fantastic writer and quite a private guy, I'm not the share-everything type so most of the really interesting stuff is where I really fucked up or was just personal experiences and that might have to stay private or just for close friends... So I feel a book would basically end up being something fairly bland and descriptive. Neutral

pepperami wrote:
Tell me, did you have any personal safety issues.? For example, baddies trying to steal your stuff?


Nothing really that stands out, I always liked to set myself up in a City for a little while and be able to explore around on the bike with no luggage (So it's not obvious you are a traveler), I do remember one night in Cali, Colombia maybe 3AM if found myself in the barrio / ghetto neighborhood. I remember feeling very self-concious of being on an expensive bike and it probably not being the best idea to stop at red lights around here, so I didn't...

Also I suspect in Guijira (The northern peninsula of Colombia, right next to the Venezuelan border) two guys on a 125cc MIGHT have tried to bikejack me. I was stopped on a bridge in this remote part out past RioHacha taking photos and just did not like the look of these two guys as they approached they were shouting something so i just pinned it, and actually kind of goaded them (250cc is generally the fastest bike out there on the roads in South America) making the "come on then" gestures as they flogged their little 125 and then I just disappeared down the road. Could be a case like here in London where a Hipster sees a chav on a ped and just assumes wrongly they are going to be jacked, maybe they just wanted a race against a shiny looking Honda, I was not hanging around to find out.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 16:37 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was the CRF a good choice with hindsight?
Not sure I'd like to ride mine huge distances but it has been reliable and cheap to run.
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TheDonUK
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PostPosted: 16:57 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

doggone wrote:
Was the CRF a good choice with hindsight?
Not sure I'd like to ride mine huge distances but it has been reliable and cheap to run.


For me it was, It is a bit heavy (140KG-ish dry) to be considered a true off-roader once loaded with my 40KG's of stuff. But it did perform admirably on the tough off-road sections considering I am basically a sport bike rider. It always started on the button as they say. The only problems I had were following the Salt Flat and riding through salt slush and then when during a hurricane in Colombia I rode down the wrong street and was up to my chest with water, and did not kill the engine before it took on water. Again both things could be avoided /shrug.

The fuel injection was really appreciated in the Altiplano of Chile and Bolivia and some of the high parts of Peru and Mexico. You still lose alot of power but it's not stuttery and being pretty rubbish mechanically I did not need to rejet, just ride.

Also the original 7 litre fuel tank is not enough for any big trip, With the IMS 12 litre tank I could get about 300kms if i rode sensibly which was enough for everywhere except the Lagunas Route in Bolivia and some stretches in Argentinian patagonia.

I rode the whole thing on the stock seat, and it was uncomfortable, I would spend the extra money and get a comfortable seat (Not a big fan of the feeling of sheep-skins, also they get mankey after rain).

I consider the CRF250L a jack of all trades bike, does not excel anywhere but if you are willing to sacrifice the straight line power on the motorways that the big tourers have, they slow right down when it gets gravely or sandy (except the really good riders) and on the CRF you can kind of just maintain your speed.

The motor I would consider bullet-proof, but then i changed the oil and filter every 4,000 miles or so rather than the Honda recommended 8,000 interval...
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chickenstrip
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PostPosted: 17:44 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheDonUK wrote:
Thanks for nice comments guys, In regards to a writeup/book, I think i will almost certainly do an more indepth write-up at some point, probably as the reality of settling into a boring work-life dawns on me as a way to relive my adventure. I have had lots of people tell me to write a book etc. Problem is, i am not a fantastic writer and quite a private guy, I'm not the share-everything type so most of the really interesting stuff is where I really fucked up or was just personal experiences and that might have to stay private or just for close friends... So I feel a book would basically end up being something fairly bland and descriptive. Neutral

pepperami wrote:
Tell me, did you have any personal safety issues.? For example, baddies trying to steal your stuff?


Nothing really that stands out, I always liked to set myself up in a City for a little while and be able to explore around on the bike with no luggage (So it's not obvious you are a traveler), I do remember one night in Cali, Colombia maybe 3AM if found myself in the barrio / ghetto neighborhood. I remember feeling very self-concious of being on an expensive bike and it probably not being the best idea to stop at red lights around here, so I didn't...

Also I suspect in Guijira (The northern peninsula of Colombia, right next to the Venezuelan border) two guys on a 125cc MIGHT have tried to bikejack me. I was stopped on a bridge in this remote part out past RioHacha taking photos and just did not like the look of these two guys as they approached they were shouting something so i just pinned it, and actually kind of goaded them (250cc is generally the fastest bike out there on the roads in South America) making the "come on then" gestures as they flogged their little 125 and then I just disappeared down the road. Could be a case like here in London where a Hipster sees a chav on a ped and just assumes wrongly they are going to be jacked, maybe they just wanted a race against a shiny looking Honda, I was not hanging around to find out.


See, your last two posts suggest you do have something to say Smile
The personal stuff; can be very hard to put that kind of thing out for general consumption, but a lot of writers do it, as a kind of cathartic thing I guess, as well as to add a more...human side. You just have to think whether anything you do write will come back and bite you on the arse later I suppose. But even without that, it could make a very interesting read. Maybe you could find someone to collaborate with you, someone who's good with words, and also someone who'll help you to think of the things to say that you might not think of yourself. Try reading a few other accounts from folks who have done similar too. Not to ape their style, but to prompt ideas of how to go about it. A lot of them will have had help to get their experiences down on the page.
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Chickenystripgeezer's Biking Life (Latest update 19/10/18) Belgium, France, Italy, Austria tour 2016 Picos de Europa, Pyrenees and French Alps tour 2017 Scotland Trip 1, now with BONUS FEATURE edit, 5/10/19, on page 2 Scotland Trip 2 Luxembourg, Black Forest, Switzerland, Vosges Trip 2017
THERE'S MILLIONS OF CHICKENSTRIPS OUT THERE!
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pepperami
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Joined: 17 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: 20:21 - 22 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheDonUK wrote:


pepperami wrote:
Tell me, did you have any personal safety issues.? For example, baddies trying to steal your stuff?


Nothing really that stands out, .


Well that's nice to know.
Would it be fair to say that these far flung places are not as hazardous as the media would have us believe?
Obviously strangers in foreign places need to be careful.

Mind you, I've been to Welshland and Scottyland and come across difficult situations.
Maybe that's just me Laughing
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I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now!
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-Matt-
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Joined: 28 Apr 2013
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 24 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks absolutely brilliant - cheers for sharing Thumbs Up.
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grr666
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Joined: 16 Jun 2014
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PostPosted: 20:58 - 24 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

"Chrome ran out of memory while trying to display this webpage."
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Ste wrote: Avatars are fine, it's signatures that need turning off. Thumbs Up
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TheDonUK
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Joined: 20 Feb 2006
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 24 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

chickenstrip wrote:
See, your last two posts suggest you do have something to say Smile
The personal stuff; can be very hard to put that kind of thing out for general consumption, but a lot of writers do it, as a kind of cathartic thing I guess, as well as to add a more...human side. You just have to think whether anything you do write will come back and bite you on the arse later I suppose.


Oh I got something to say alright, about most topics, the issue is like you say weather it will come back and bite me in the ass. I think i will learn to erring on the side of caution on this, even if the world misses out on another boring motorcycle travel book or a gem. What I will try to do as i get back on the grind is write my thoughts about the trip down while they are relatively fresh so I can come back to it at another point. Should have really kept a journal on the road, already so many details are lost.

pepperami wrote:
Would it be fair to say that these far flung places are not as hazardous as the media would have us believe?
Obviously strangers in foreign places need to be careful.


Yes in my opinion that would be a fair statement. Of course everyone's experience will vary wildly. People will judge you and have preconceived notions of you everywhere you go but if you can speak with them (in their language preferably) and you have good intentions people pick that up very fast. I think you would have to be pretty unlucky and exercise pretty bad situational awareness to come across the malditos (bad people) in the correct situation for something nasty to happen. But anything is possible, could get squished by a bus tomorrow down Lahndahn town. Best bet is to enjoy every moment you can and see all of the things! Thumbs Up

Cheers Matt

grr666 wrote:
"Chrome ran out of memory while trying to display this webpage."
Yeah sorry about that, I did not really think through the implications, In my defence i changed the title to warn Wink

I could go back and change the pictures so they are individual links but that seemed annoying to have to click each one. But then just loading the thread now was super annoying waiting for each to load and having the replies below jump around...
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