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protecting a new bike

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wednesday
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 19 Oct 2015
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PostPosted: 17:05 - 26 Oct 2015    Post subject: protecting a new bike Reply with quote

My new ER-6F will be registered and ready to pick up as soon as I've passed my mod 2, but I live in an area surrounded by the sea and even the main road into town gets cut off by the tide regulrly so I WILL be riding on salty roads year round.
ACF50 - I've heard of it, but not really sure when to use it? Can I use it and still ride the bike (I'm riding year-round)? If so what parts do I spray and is there anything I need to be careful NOT to spray?
Is it even the best thing to use in these circumstances? Anything else I need to protect it apart from a decent cover?
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ws4936
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 26 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very thin coats - they recommend using a microfiber cloth and once applied, place cloth in a ziplock bag. There should be enough to use for your next application. It should be microns thick when applying. If you see it, it's too thick. Avoid brake disc/pads.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 17:11 - 26 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spray everything apart from the brakes.
Use a little bit of rag to wipe up any excess and spread that excess over any missed areas.

There may already be some 'preservative' on the bike from the factory. Which 'may' tamperfere with the qualities of the ACF-50. It is better applied to clean dry surfaces.
Ask the dealer. They may even offer to ACF-50 it for you for a small fee. It cost about £25/litre so ad 1 hour labour and you will be in the ballpark.

The stuff comes with tons of How-to.
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Kaya75
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 11 Jan 2015
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PostPosted: 18:05 - 26 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be careful not to spray the tyres too...
It will smoke off the engine and exhaust etc after first ride don't stress big plumes of white smoke, smoke it's normal..

I wash dry applied, do not move the wheels in case you get any on the discs one application is complete use brake cleaner on discs and tyres to wipe off over spray if u don't cover these first, I did mine on side stand to stop wheels moving and polluting the pads, take your time spray everything, but seat, brakes and tyres, grips and mirrors apply with cloth to wheels etc.

There is loads of how to's as said b4, also if you can do it in a garage with a bit of warmth, it will help penetration and flow etc.. you bike will look about ten years old by spring but will wash up to new again.. apparently, I'm still in my first application, but in a bandit and it's parked on the coast literally, so far so good Smile
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wednesday
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 19 Oct 2015
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 26 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
You should buy an old hack you don't really care about for winter use and keep the new bike nice.

I'm buying it just for fun, not to commute, so I want to be riding the bike I want, all the time. Luckily as its for fun I can pick my times to ride according to the weather so should be able to avoid the worst of it.

Thanks for all that info, thats a great help - looks like I'm going to be busy!
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Rogerborg
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Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 20:00 - 26 Oct 2015    Post subject: Re: protecting a new bike Reply with quote

wednesday wrote:
My new ER-6F will be registered and ready to pick up as soon as I've passed my mod 2

See you in the Spill Counter thread. Whistle


ACF-50 really does work, it kept my cheap Chinese 125 pristine over 3 winters.

Be aware that if you get the aerosol that it's a bit spurty and it (by design) 'creeps' like crazy, so do be very careful near the brakes. I just did the Nazi Tractor and managed to get some on the discs. Hilarity ensued. I'd recommend giving the discs a cautionary scrub with soapy water, or ideally use brake cleaner or something that won't leave a residue like isopropyl alcohol.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 21:35 - 26 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://f2mcltd.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/winter-salt-protection-acf50-fs365-or.html
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 26 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

As with any learner on a new bike, get a spare set of plastics for winter or the first year, that is when most bikes get dropped or crashed.

While ACF works, its extremely expensive, and fresh/used engine oil will be just as good preventing rust on the frame/bolts, save your cash for more important things. Washing the bike too often will also encourage rust, best to ride it soon after to dry off. Use plenty of oil on chain or get an oiler. Dont neglect brakes, a good clean out after winter will help. Also a fork seal cleaner/sealmate, use every 10k miles or so.

Put protective 3M vinyl on the forks and top clamp (key scratches). Stones will chip the paint and make it look shit. My CBR6 has a couple small squares of it which look perfect after 63k miles, surrounded by rotting shite - so do the whole thing. Mad

Chinese CNC levers are suprisingly great and give better control (for me atleast). Sell the originals on ebay for a decent premium.


Last edited by kramdra on 22:27 - 26 Oct 2015; edited 1 time in total
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MCN
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 26 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 23:31 - 26 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:

While ACF works, its extremely expensive, and fresh/used engine oil will be just as good preventing rust on the frame/bolts, save your cash for more important things.


https://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/Jerry-Mouse-Facepalm1.jpg
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 01:28 - 27 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I oiled the chinese 125 frame when I got it. The paint was not good but the frame has no new rust and two years later still has some coating of oil. Its been ridden in the wet and left out a bit (enough to rot new wheel bearings fitted 2013). So how is that stupid? its well suited to protecting a black frame.. but you wouldn't use it on the outside of petrol tank.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:05 - 27 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
As with any learner on a new bike, get a spare set of plastics for winter or the first year, that is when most bikes get dropped or crashed.

Did you really just write that? My brain's having trouble processing it.


kramdra wrote:
While ACF works, its extremely expensive

It's the cost of a tank of fuel for a spray can, or £33 for 950ml that will do multiple bikes for multiple years. It's a lot cheaper than the parts that it's protecting.


kramdra wrote:
fresh/used engine oil will be just as good preventing rust on the frame/bolts

It'll help, but "just as good"? Show your working.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
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pompousporcup...
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PostPosted: 10:24 - 27 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

i applied acf this weekend just gone. washed the bike down and let it dry then just went mental with the acf can, no rag needed, being careful around the brakes.

must have used half the can + for 1 application going over the entire bike Laughing made a good ol mess but a couple days later its dried up and will hopefully last the winter coming.

for the £15 delivered i paid i'm hoping it pay off

fwiw i used to use old engine oil to coat the underside/inner arches of my old car to prevent winter corrosion. worked a treat and came free when changing the oil Thumbs Up works well if built up in a few layers
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UnknownStuntm...
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PostPosted: 10:41 - 27 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use ACF50 - do the do, ignore Kramdra (don't argue, you'll get a slap!)

Don't drop your bike and consider other forms of transport if it's icy.
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KnuckleShot
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PostPosted: 15:13 - 27 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree, I wouldn't take advise of someone who punches vans.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:19 - 27 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

KnuckleShot wrote:
I agree, I wouldn't take advise of someone who punches vans.


Advice either. Wink
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KnuckleShot
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PostPosted: 15:22 - 27 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
KnuckleShot wrote:
I agree, I wouldn't take advise of someone who punches vans.


Advice either. Wink


I fucked that one up. Laughing Laughing
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Jayy
Mr. Ponzi



Joined: 08 Jun 2009
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PostPosted: 15:25 - 27 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I absolutely mullered my chain and sprockets and the cat pipe on my brand new R1 from salt on the roads in 2014. Gutted about that still, cost near £400 to get it all back to normal Sad
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wednesday
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 19 Oct 2015
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PostPosted: 19:28 - 27 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
See you in the Spill Counter thread.


my sole aim on this bike is not to make it onto the 2015 one! Obviously I'd like to not make it onto the 2016 either but right now I feel thats a tad ambitious Praying
Still, I'd rather have the bike I want but scratched than be riding round on something I don't want, so its all good.
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blue_painted
Nova Slayer



Joined: 04 Aug 2015
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PostPosted: 20:01 - 27 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another plus for ACF50. Thumbs Up

The usual bastard pigeon crapped on my bike during the day, leaving a brown splat on the chrome mudguard. I went off to collect things for the family, as I parked up I noticed that the bird crap just peeled off!
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Rogerborg
nimbA



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PostPosted: 20:23 - 27 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

wednesday wrote:
Still, I'd rather have the bike I want but scratched than be riding round on something I don't want, so its all good.

Feisty!

Fair point, you can't take it with you.

Unless you build a pyramid and a golden sarcophagus, I suppose. Thinking
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 21:28 - 27 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
kramdra wrote:
As with any learner on a new bike, get a spare set of plastics for winter or the first year, that is when most bikes get dropped or crashed.

Did you really just write that? My brain's having trouble processing it.


Did I forget the reference to ebay? I ofcourse meant cheap/used/cosmetically challenged plastics. You wont see the difference under the winter dirt and gives an excuse not to wash so often. Even chinese ones dont cost much... Ok its only an Er6.. Doesnt look great to begin with. Also its dark. You wont notice.

My cbr6 was perfect. In couple years I have doubled milage and it got quite tatty.... Looks a lot better now but Ive punched a few vans on the way. (And smashed 3 nose fairings... they break very easy! Especially on ice.)
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MCN
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PostPosted: 23:51 - 27 Oct 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like the ER6 they are cool bikes but I wouldn't like cheap plastic on it.
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wednesday
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 19 Oct 2015
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PostPosted: 21:27 - 08 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok so I have the bike, I have the ACF50, there is a chance I might actually have some dry weather coming up... do I need to remove the fairings to do it? if so is it a one (small) person job?

cheers
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