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Albigularis
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PostPosted: 09:37 - 10 Nov 2015    Post subject: Anyone tried an Oxford charger? Having issues... Reply with quote

As above having issues with an Oxford charger. The battery in the zx10r hasn't been used in maybe 6 weeks, so it was too low to start the bike. Multimeter still said 11v left in it.

Got an Oxford Oximiser 900 and it doesn't seem to do anything. Once connected it just flashes the "recover" bit on the screen and flashes saying 10.0Volts, the amperage stays at 0.00. Left it on overnight and it didn't do anything. Battery isn't knackered as the charger has a light to tell you if it won't take a charge.

Anyone else had/heard of anything similar?
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 10:37 - 10 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had an Oxford charger do exactly the same. From memory I plugged it into the other bike that had a fully charged battery, then (without turning it off) moved it quickly over to the dead one. That seemed to confuse it enough to start it charging.

Give that a try, maybe use a car battery if you don't have a second bike.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 10:41 - 10 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some 'optomisers' wont fix a flatted battery.
Some better 'optimisers' have circuitry to handle deep discharge so can 'revive' a deaded battery. They operate by hammering the battery with full amps in pulses to knock the chemicals 'blocking' the charge and allow the charge phase to run.
Baaat.... Normally a deaded battery will only hold a more limited amount of energy than it will when new (or properly maintained).
The chemistry of the metal plates changes and that prevents batteries charging or holding maximum charge.

If you think of a battery as the original description 'Accumulator'it makes better sense. An accumulator is a storage device.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:58 - 10 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

5-quarter-turns-in-a-circle.

It's an Oxford product, the fact that it didn't explode and attract a swarm of pikeys to steal your bike is a bonus.

+1 on another battery. Connect the charger to the good battery, connect the good battery to the dud one, cross fingers.

I assume it's sealed (or AGM / gel) rather than a serviceable wet cell?
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Albigularis
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PostPosted: 14:40 - 10 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried what you suggested Matt, didn't seem to make any difference. Doesn't deliver any current to the discharged battery at all. The charger works fine on the other battery though, but the resting voltage of mine is about 10.1v, surely that's chargeable? Tempted to jump out to tesco and grab a cheapo charger and see if it works. I can't even use the other battery from the ZX7R in the 10R as its far too big.

It's almost like sometimes it doesn't even see the battery, sometimes the charger does nothing when connected to it.

I expect the charger is fully working, but if the battery was dud then the charger should tell me so...

It seems to be a sealed unit yeah.
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Albigularis
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PostPosted: 15:04 - 10 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just off the phone with the Oxford woman, think the battery is indeed humped. Sometimes the charger won't see the battery but it works fine with two others I've tried. Gonna get something 12v and wire it to the battery and see what happens.

Either way, new battery time.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 10 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Albigularis wrote:
I tried what you suggested Matt, didn't seem to make any difference. Doesn't deliver any current to the discharged battery at all. The charger works fine on the other battery though, but the resting voltage of mine is about 10.1v, surely that's chargeable? Tempted to jump out to tesco and grab a cheapo charger and see if it works. I can't even use the other battery from the ZX7R in the 10R as its far too big.

It's almost like sometimes it doesn't even see the battery, sometimes the charger does nothing when connected to it.

I expect the charger is fully working, but if the battery was dud then the charger should tell me so...

It seems to be a sealed unit yeah.


Somebuddy on here posted some guff about batteries a while ago.
The suggestion was to deep discharge the fooked unit by attaching a car headlamp to it and let it run down.
Then re-charge 'as normal'.
The problem I suspect with this method is that I have tried and failed to charge a flatted battery using a Brand New optimate. The optimiser was never any use after this.

Someone suggested a battery 'charger' has better capacity to charge a flatted battery than an optimiser but there is the usual conjecture with all of this. Someone sez....

I only use Ctek 'maintainers' now and a very ancient Halfords' charger which still punches it's weight and it was left in the garage by the previous owner's. Probably more than 20yrs old. I daren't leave it on a battery without putting a timer on the plug as I'm concerned it boils the bastirt dry and asplodes the garage. (Though it 'should' only pump in enough charge as the battery will allow and then reduce the charge to a trickle when 'full'.)

The other important point to consider is, depending on the brand, age, condition, and number of 'life cycles' for the offending battery it may be BER (Beyond Economical Repair).
If so, it would be better melted down and the lead recovered for fishing weights/musket balls. I see a positive from a negative there (pun).
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 15:43 - 10 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tried connecting the two batteries together? Jump leads, +ve to +ve, -ve to -ve. Not for long, just to see if you can get the voltage on the discharged one high enough for the charger to kick in. Watch for any signs of distress or overheating from either battery.
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Undinist
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PostPosted: 18:09 - 10 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bin the Oximiser and buy a Ctek. Then you know you have definitely eliminated a potential problem. Cheap battery conditioners are a false economy. Oxford products are built down to a price and only exist to provide dealers with a profit margin.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 18:23 - 10 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Undinist wrote:
Bin the Oximiser and buy a Ctek. Then you know you have definitely eliminated a potential problem. Cheap battery conditioners are a false economy. Oxford products are built down to a price and only exist to provide dealers with a profit margin.



About £35 for the entry level Ctek. Cheap on amazon and very comparable to wot folk want for an Optifail.

But there are those who have got on ok with Optifail though.
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Albigularis
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PostPosted: 23:51 - 10 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Undinist wrote:
Bin the Oximiser and buy a Ctek. Then you know you have definitely eliminated a potential problem. Cheap battery conditioners are a false economy. Oxford products are built down to a price and only exist to provide dealers with a profit margin.



About £35 for the entry level Ctek. Cheap on amazon and very comparable to wot folk want for an Optifail.

But there are those who have got on ok with Optifail though.


That's why I went with one, the reviews were overwhelmingly positive and in vast supply.

I tried connecting the battery to the ZX10R today and the dash wouldn't even light up, so I'm probably safe assuming that it's kicked the bucket. The bike is a daily use number anyway, so I can't really afford to be pissing about and worrying about the battery. I'm probably as well replacing it anyway as that battery is the OEM part, so it's over 11 years old. It's had a good run I guess.

I don't really want to try push some juice into it with the other battery, as I don't fancy trying to bump start the ZX7R at 8am tomorrow in case of failure/battery death.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 07:12 - 11 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

These trickle chargers are more for maintaining than recovering something over-discharged let alone almost pooped.
I've got a similar Oxford charger which gets rotated around two bikes and an infrequently used mini-digger and it's kept all three in good condition for several years.

Lead acid batteries don't like being discharged at all and leaving them low for any length of time causes irreversible chemical changes which result in a vicious circle of declining performance.
The key for long life is trickle charging whenever you don't use the vehicle for more than a couple of weeks.
Any slow drain like alarm or immobiliser will soon take down a small bike battery.
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Albigularis
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PostPosted: 08:09 - 11 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Part of the problem is the bike had both a factory immobiliser and an Accumen alarm. The accident was on the 14th of August, since then it had an "around the block" run on the 19th and has remained untouched since. I didn't have a battery charger before now, but because I've only ever had use of NiMH/Li-Po cells in the RC world, I didnt expect the lead batteries to have such a bad daily drain.
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Biking history so far-
Aprilia RS125 - Kawasaki ZXR400 - Triumph Street Triple R - Suzuki GSXR1000 L3 - BMW R1200GS - Kawasaki Z1000 - Kawasaki ZX10R C1H - Ducati Multistrada 1200 S Touring - Suzuki Hayabusa
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 08:59 - 11 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

11 years is great going for an OEM battery, you've got your money's worth out of it.
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GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Undinist
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PostPosted: 14:15 - 11 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't plug the bike in when it's parked and sometimes I don't ride it for two or three weeks. I used to have lots of grief with a weak battery until I bought an Odyssey battery and a Ctek battery charge indicator https://www.ctek.com/gb/en/chargers/Comfort%20Indicator%20Eyelet%20M8. It's great - no more wondering about the state of the battery - there's a little green light telling me everything's fine.
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Current bike: K1100RS. Previous: CD200, GSX250, GT550, VFR750, K100LT, K1100LT, R1100GS, R1150GS, ZZR1100, Hayabusa, RSV Mille, MV F4 750S, R1, ZX-10, KTM Adventure 950S
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:25 - 11 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Undinist wrote:
I can't plug the bike in when it's parked and sometimes I don't ride it for two or three weeks. I used to have lots of grief with a weak battery until I bought an Odyssey battery and a Ctek battery charge indicator https://www.ctek.com/gb/en/chargers/Comfort%20Indicator%20Eyelet%20M8. It's great - no more wondering about the state of the battery - there's a little green light telling me everything's fine.


+1 for the indicator doofur.
I fitted one the CG and the S1000RR for those days when doubting Thomas is in charge (shit another bloody pun Embarassed )
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 19:21 - 11 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Albigularis wrote:
Part of the problem is the bike had both a factory immobiliser and an Accumen alarm. The accident was on the 14th of August, since then it had an "around the block" run on the 19th and has remained untouched since. I didn't have a battery charger before now, but because I've only ever had use of NiMH/Li-Po cells in the RC world, I didnt expect the lead batteries to have such a bad daily drain.



Why even consider using an oxford charger if you have a good LiPo charger? most will do Pb, and do it far better than even the top end automotive poo.
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Albigularis
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PostPosted: 23:40 - 11 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Albigularis wrote:
Part of the problem is the bike had both a factory immobiliser and an Accumen alarm. The accident was on the 14th of August, since then it had an "around the block" run on the 19th and has remained untouched since. I didn't have a battery charger before now, but because I've only ever had use of NiMH/Li-Po cells in the RC world, I didnt expect the lead batteries to have such a bad daily drain.



Why even consider using an oxford charger if you have a good LiPo charger? most will do Pb, and do it far better than even the top end automotive poo.


I don't have the RC stuff any more or I would have. Gave it up last year.

Going to get a battery and socket set from halfrauds on Friday and get the bike on the go again.
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