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CG 125 (2004) Engine Noises

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Falco
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 11 Dec 2015    Post subject: CG 125 (2004) Engine Noises Reply with quote

Hi Guys,

There are actally a couple of questions I wanted to ask about my c 125's engine noise. There is a video of it here:

https://vid.me/I4II

The 1st question is about the general noise. I haven't owned a 125 before so I don't know, but is that normal? It sounds like its clattering a bit to me? I was planning to check the valve clearances tomorrow anyway but I would be interested to know if that is a normal noise for such an engine.

The 2nd question is of a more serious nature.
A couple of weeks ago the side stand snapped and dumped the bike on its side. There was no obvious damage but since I have noticed a sort of buzzing (though I am not sure how obvious it is in the video)? Like a piece of metal vibrating rapidly between 2 hard surfaces. It is most noticeable at high RPMs but it is also there at very low RPMs as well (ie whenever the bike is vibrating a lot).

At first I thought it might be something to do with the petrol tank as holding the tank with my knees muffled the noise. However last week I removed and checked all the mountings on the tank and there was nothing amiss. The noise has changed slightly and now holding the tank makes no difference (so maybe I fixed part of the problem).
When riding it sounds like it is coming from under the seat, but in the video it seems louder near the rear of the bike.

I am at a bit of a loss for where to start looking for problems (I have been round the bike once, checking fasteners and could find nothing loose). Can anyone suggest a/some starting points?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 17:24 - 11 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought the Brazil bikes came without the side stand but there are stands available on t' Interwebs? Possibly someone has bodged a bit of bar on and that's failed.
The correct stands are very robust. It's not a great idea to fit one as there is no interlock to prevent the bike being driven with the stand deployed. Most modern bike cut the engine if the stand id down and the bike in gear to prevent coming a cropper on a left-hand bend when the stand contacts the ground.
There should still be a bracket/weldment as part of the frame to accept a side stand. There is also provision for the interlock switch too. But that will involve a bit of 'wiring' to connect to the ignition circuit too.

The noise sounds 'normal'. Any doubt in any 'unusual noise from a machine requires an oil drop and filter check. If nowt in the filter then no problem replacing the dropped oil.
The engine has a steel mesh screen as a 'filter'. They are low output engines so not a great need for high performance filtration. But the oil should be changed every 3k miles I think.

Worn Tappets don't make an engine rattle. The misconception is due to some law of mythery.
If you never adjust the tappets then the faces of the valves and seats wear until there is no 'valve clearance' and then there is no air/gas-tight seal. The engine performance will drop due to loss of compression forces.
The valve clearance decreases as the engine wears. So scheduled adjustment actually addresses this wear and opens the gaps again.

You can probably Phaph to this. Smile

https://hondacg125.awardspace.com/index.htm
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spottedtango
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PostPosted: 18:18 - 11 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep I agree sounds normal to me, i think CGs usually have a bit extra valve train noise because they are push rod operated (OHV) and have rocker arms instead of shims. Plus its air cooled so no water jacket to dampen down the noises. It also depends how many miles the motor has done too.

You dont have a toolkit with it? Check and see no spanners or anything has tried to escape. It sounds like you've touched on the issue with the tank though. I would try messing around with it to see if its the cause. Check all the other trims like side panels, make sure no lugs have snapped or things like that
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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:32 - 11 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noise:

Do you have L plates fitted? The rear plates can act like a massive resonator and amplify any normal vibration.

Really all you can do is try to set the RPM at the point where it's most vibey and then try to dampen the vibe with your finger or a screwdriver by touching/pressing any and all part of the bike. The bits that stop the noise possibly need packing with something.

Our CG125 has a topbox which vibrates like a bastart at 1/2 revs. (Whateverthefuk 1/2 revs is. Very Happy )
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talkToTheHat
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PostPosted: 22:11 - 11 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

One of the bikes i testrode yesterday was a bit stumbly at 4000 rpm. Suspect that was down to emisions/noise lean spot and the cobwebs needing blowing out. There was, however a bag o' spanners rattle accompanying this. Carefully listeing and the sound was behind me. I stopped, took the seat off, put the tool kit in my pocket and the sound went away. Really was a genuine bag o' spanners.
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Falco
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PostPosted: 03:25 - 12 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
I thought the Brazil bikes came without the side stand but there are stands available on t' Interwebs? Possibly someone has bodged a bit of bar on and that's failed.
The correct stands are very robust. It's not a great idea to fit one as there is no interlock to prevent the bike being driven with the stand deployed. Most modern bike cut the engine if the stand id down and the bike in gear to prevent coming a cropper on a left-hand bend when the stand contacts the ground.
There should still be a bracket/weldment as part of the frame to accept a side stand. There is also provision for the interlock switch too. But that will involve a bit of 'wiring' to connect to the ignition circuit too.

The noise sounds 'normal'. Any doubt in any 'unusual noise from a machine requires an oil drop and filter check. If nowt in the filter then no problem replacing the dropped oil.
The engine has a steel mesh screen as a 'filter'. They are low output engines so not a great need for high performance filtration. But the oil should be changed every 3k miles I think.

Worn Tappets don't make an engine rattle. The misconception is due to some law of mythery.
If you never adjust the tappets then the faces of the valves and seats wear until there is no 'valve clearance' and then there is no air/gas-tight seal. The engine performance will drop due to loss of compression forces.
The valve clearance decreases as the engine wears. So scheduled adjustment actually addresses this wear and opens the gaps again.

You can probably Phaph to this. Smile

https://hondacg125.awardspace.com/index.htm


You are quite right, there was no side stand so I put an aftermarket one on (the centre stand is a bit battered and putting the bike on it is a bit of a pain for short stops or when at work for a couple of hours) which promptly broke. Got a heavier gauge one and (fingers crossed) it is still holding firm. I was planning to grease the bolt which is acting as a pivot at some point in the not to distant future, so I'll have a look for the interlock switch while I am down there. I am not worried about a cut out at the moment (I am too paranoid to warm the bike up on the side stand at the moment, so no chance of driving off with it down). It would be an interesting project for the summer though.

By an oil drop do you mean an oil change (sorry I am not entirely up to speed on the nomenclature)? If so that is next on the list of things to do anyway, and checking/ cleaning the filter would make sense to do at the same time.

I haven't noticed any loss of power, so that probably isn't the problem. I'll probably still check them, since I have no idea when they were last checked and I am starting my own maintenance schedule.

I know that site well! Razz It's been of considerable use so far, and even with the Haynes manual it will continue to be (for example there is no mention of the need to remove the air suction valve on the new models to remove the rocker cover in the manual).


spottedtango wrote:
Yep I agree sounds normal to me, i think CGs usually have a bit extra valve train noise because they are push rod operated (OHV) and have rocker arms instead of shims. Plus its air cooled so no water jacket to dampen down the noises. It also depends how many miles the motor has done too.

You dont have a toolkit with it? Check and see no spanners or anything has tried to escape. It sounds like you've touched on the issue with the tank though. I would try messing around with it to see if its the cause. Check all the other trims like side panels, make sure no lugs have snapped or things like that


Thanks to both you and MCN on the general engine noise. I just wasn't sure about how noisy they are supposed to be. The bike has just ticked over to 17k miles (the last 1000 with me). I assume they get noisier as the millage climbs (and stuff wears).


talkToTheHat wrote:
One of the bikes i testrode yesterday was a bit stumbly at 4000 rpm. Suspect that was down to emisions/noise lean spot and the cobwebs needing blowing out. There was, however a bag o' spanners rattle accompanying this. Carefully listeing and the sound was behind me. I took the seat off, put the tool kit in my pocket and the sound went away. Really was a genuine bag o' spanners.


To get to the petrol tank out, I had to remove the seat, no sign of a toolkit (I was still hopeful Razz). Had both the side panels off when doing the tank, but I might do it again and double check. The noise is really starting to do my head in!


MCN wrote:
Noise:

Do you have L plates fitted? The rear plates can act like a massive resonator and amplify any normal vibration.

Really all you can do is try to set the RPM at the point where it's most vibey and then try to dampen the vibe with your finger or a screwdriver by touching/pressing any and all part of the bike. The bits that stop the noise possibly need packing with something.

Our CG125 has a topbox which vibrates like a bastart at 1/2 revs. (Whateverthefuk 1/2 revs is. Very Happy )


I do have L plates, so I will try grabbing the rear one while revving (not sure how to reach it though, need longer arms) along with other random other bits on the bike.

No topbox, (the mounting points got broken when the side stand snapped Sad dry-bag and cargo net are all I have for now).

Thanks for the advice all, I'll keep looking, failing that I will turn up the music when riding....
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MCN
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PostPosted: 13:46 - 12 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry I meant by an 'Oil Drop'.
Drain the oil into a clean container (Your Mum's dish bowl) If no issue found and the oil is within the service life then reuse to fill up and top off as required.

Misleading I know as an 'oil drop' could also be 'a drop of oil'. But that would only be on Jamie Oliver/Nigella Lawson's forum. Smile
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 14:19 - 12 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds rough as a bears ass to me
BUT
Having made a vid of one of my bikes once I was horrified at playback and rushed back out listen again thinking it had a terminal condition.

I found the wee mics you get in cams/phones tended to get swamped or exaggerate certain frequencies and not always give reliable results.
I also discovered I tended to get too close and standing say 6 feet away gave a better rendition of what the bike actually sounded like.
the exhaust can sometimes be a bit err 'percussive' and sound like an 'orrible knocking.

Top marks for bothering to make a vid though

My lads 125 has an irritating tinny noise when revved which we traced
to a loose exhaust liner and baffles
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Falco
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 12 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Sorry I meant by an 'Oil Drop'.
Drain the oil into a clean container (Your Mum's dish bowl) If no issue found and the oil is within the service life then reuse to fill up and top off as required.

Misleading I know as an 'oil drop' could also be 'a drop of oil'. But that would only be on Jamie Oliver/Nigella Lawson's forum. Smile



Thanks for the clarification. It's been topped up a couple of times since I got it, but no idea when it was last changed so I thought I would change it regardless so I a start point for my maintenance.

I don't think my mother would appreciate Laughing me getting her dish bowl so filthy in any case. Plus the 7.5hr (L plates + 125 = slow travels) ride to see her on a motorbike she doesn't yet know I ride, wouldn't be worth the hassle Razz

I think it would be best if I left the cooking to the experts Smile

WD Forte wrote:
Sounds rough as a bears ass to me
BUT
Having made a vid of one of my bikes once I was horrified at playback and rushed back out listen again thinking it had a terminal condition.

I found the wee mics you get in cams/phones tended to get swamped or exaggerate certain frequencies and not always give reliable results.
I also discovered I tended to get too close and standing say 6 feet away gave a better rendition of what the bike actually sounded like.
the exhaust can sometimes be a bit err 'percussive' and sound like an 'orrible knocking.

Top marks for bothering to make a vid though

My lads 125 has an irritating tinny noise when revved which we traced
to a loose exhaust liner and baffles


Laughing yes, I did think the bike sound pretty dire on the recording, but then I periodically think that hearing it idling after a ride. I suppose you get an ear for it after a while.

I will try getting another video from a bit further away and see if that is better. Can't do it today unfortunately, been a total washout, pissing with rain all day so no work done at all Sad


Thanks for the tip about the exhaust though, I'll have a look at it. However the Haynes manual (somewhat unhelpfully) states "The exhaust system on a 4-stroke motor-cycle will require very little attention....The only points requiring attention are the general condition of the system, including mountings and the chromium plating" Thinking bit of a bugger to repair then.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 17:47 - 12 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have a shoofti at the the manual on my 1st post.
It is vital.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 18:33 - 12 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

this one sounds OK
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2srLbDyjZe8

note how he lets it tick over OK?
Don't just rev the arse off it as its just bloody awful noise and hard to
listen for any knocks and rattles
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Falco
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PostPosted: 19:57 - 12 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
this one sounds OK
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2srLbDyjZe8

note how he lets it tick over OK?
Don't just rev the arse off it as its just bloody awful noise and hard to
listen for any knocks and rattles


Much smoother than mine. I'll try again in a more restrained manner and see how it sounds.

MCN wrote:
Have a shoofti at the the manual on my 1st post.
It is vital.


Any you thinking of any bit in particular? I have read most of the site (or at least skimmed it) over the last couple of months, but not sure if it deals with this (except for mentioning that overly large valve clearances result in a noisy engine).
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MCN
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 12 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

FredTheHorse wrote:
MCN wrote:
Have a shoofti at the the manual on my 1st post.
It is vital.


Any you thinking of any bit in particular? I have read most of the site (or at least skimmed it) over the last couple of months, but not sure if it deals with this (except for mentioning that overly large valve clearances result in a noisy engine).


There's a ton of info you would struggle to find over the web etc.

It is not the last word of course.

(Kickstart always has the last word. Very Happy )
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Falco
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PostPosted: 00:50 - 13 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
There's a ton of info you would struggle to find over the web etc.

It is not the last word of course.

(Kickstart always has the last word. Very Happy )


Ah I see what you are getting at.
Yeah, it's got a lot of great info (as I mentioned the Haynes manual makes no mention of the need to remove the air suction valve to get the rocker cover off when checking valve clearances, but the owners club has a really nice step-by-step to get it off).
However, in spite of the authors opinion that they are not needed, I will be getting and using a torque wrench, I have stripped too many threads on my bicycle to risk doing it on the much more expensive motorbike Very Happy.
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