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Az
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PostPosted: 01:11 - 17 Dec 2015    Post subject: Rust in tank Reply with quote

There's a tank up for sale which I'm imtersted in buying and keeping as a spare, as long as it goes cheap on bids.

Only concern is the amount of rust that's in the tank. I've attached some pictures, do you guys think it'd be possible to clean it up? If not, will it potentially affect the running of the bike if I ever had to fit it?

Photos taken off the ebay ad' so sorry if they're a bit crap.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 08:11 - 17 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to follow a very aggressive process to remove the rust and then seal the tank. There are kits with detailed instructions one eBay etc. for about £60.
You must ensure the sealant is the more modern ethanol resistant type.
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 10:06 - 17 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would not even bother. I've thrown away less rusty tanks.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:13 - 17 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used worse. Seems like surface rust due to condensation above the "fuel line" where the bike's been stored rather than from water contamination (which tends to rot-out the seams) from the pictures.

If the price was right, I'd knock the loose stuff off, treat the inside with a phosphoric acid based corrosion inhibitor then store it somewhere reasonably warm and dry.

The traditional way of konocking the loose stuff off is to put a load of nuts, threaded loosely onto a long bit of string, into the tank. Then add a little fuel and swirl the tank about so the nuts scrape the rust off and the fuel washes it away.

Being a modern tank, you'd need to take the delicate fuel guages/pumps/taps out first and blank off the holes to use this technique.

I've seen people do the above nuts and petrol technique but wrap the tank in an old blanket and stick it in a cement mixer for 20 minutes.

I've also had some success removing mild rust with a sufficiently powerful pressure washer. Especially with those attachments that kind of vibrate.

You could also try electrolytic rust removal.

Google for techniques. Here's one:
https://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolysis-rust-removal-motorbike-fuel-tank/
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Last edited by stinkwheel on 10:17 - 17 Dec 2015; edited 1 time in total
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 10:15 - 17 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried a few times to repair a rusty tank, followed instructions to the letter.

cleaned the rust out, then put a sealer in - which melted (Petseal) an clogged everything up
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MCN
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PostPosted: 10:34 - 17 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/petrol_tank_cleaning_and_rust_removal.html

The liner melts due to it being affected by ethanol. There are still some arseholes selling that shite.

Newer compounds are resistant.
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Az
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PostPosted: 13:35 - 17 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
There are kits with detailed instructions one eBay etc. for about £60.
type.


with the tank at £40 on bids with £10 postage, not worth bidding then. As it'll cost £110 once de-rusted. May as well buy a clean tank for a little more if I ever needed to.

Thanks for the replies Thumbs Up Karma
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



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PostPosted: 19:14 - 17 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN posted my usual link.

It costs about a fiver to do-rust a tank using acid. Free to do it using electrolysis, but it takes longer.

You don't need to line the tank afterwards. Tank liners are only for tanks that have rusted so much that they leak - a tank in that condition is fucked. Liners also have a habit of clogging the wrong holes.

Acid, then rinse, then rinse again with meths, then pour in some engine oil and swill it around a lot. Close up the holes and leave it on the shelf.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 23:04 - 17 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
MCN posted my usual link.

It costs about a fiver to do-rust a tank using acid. Free to do it using electrolysis, but it takes longer.

You don't need to line the tank afterwards. Tank liners are only for tanks that have rusted so much that they leak - a tank in that condition is fucked. Liners also have a habit of clogging the wrong holes.

Acid, then rinse, then rinse again with meths, then pour in some engine oil and swill it around a lot. Close up the holes and leave it on the shelf.


I'm with Robby. Just cleaned a 30year old tank with diesel and wood screws (nice and sharp to get into crevices) followed by a detergent rinse and phosphoric acid, rinse again then meths to absorb the water then hair dryer and some wd40. (14 quid for 2.5litres of highly concentrated- I used about 3 quids worth) worked well.

i used petseal once about 20 years ago and it work out ok. but these days there are options provided the tank isn't perforated.

Of course a clean tank is always better but sometimes there just isn;t that option.
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Petemate
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PostPosted: 15:35 - 19 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a VERY rusty tank on my bike when I started out on my budget resto. It was also full of filler all over, dents etc. It was absolutely beyond hope. A bit tongue in cheek I know, but I was very lucky enough to get hold of a NOS tank for a reasonable price, and I use nothing but Tesco Momentum (I'm advised it has little or no ethanol in it). I assume that there are other super unleaded brands with little or no ethanol?
So I reckon this will do for as long as I own the bike.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:17 - 19 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Petemate wrote:
I had a VERY rusty tank on my bike when I started out on my budget resto. It was also full of filler all over, dents etc. It was absolutely beyond hope. A bit tongue in cheek I know, but I was very lucky enough to get hold of a NOS tank for a reasonable price, and I use nothing but Tesco Momentum (I'm advised it has little or no ethanol in it). I assume that there are other super unleaded brands with little or no ethanol?
So I reckon this will do for as long as I own the bike.


I think the Tesco Momentum still has the same ethanol (alcohol) but it has an 'additive package to up the Octane from the standard 95/98 to their advertised 99

Have a shoofti at the spec sheet for the 99.

supply many supermarket fuels.

Another issue with high octane fuels is that many motorcycles do not have knock sensors so cannot use the full effect of the higher octane fuels.

I use the High octane in my BMW bikes but any auld Supermarket Slosh is fine for the car. I hate cars.
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robocog
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PostPosted: 16:17 - 20 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

As its a spare and no massive rush to use it...

Electrolysis followed by a dusting of ACF50 or something that will stop it rusting again till its needed (store it in a dry place)

Electrolysis rocks and costs next to nothing to achieve great results that seem to last whenever I have done it

Vid of the last tank I did
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfGCS5lSR40

Very Happy

Only thing you need to keep an eye on is the electrodes getting cacked up - they need wire brushing back to clean metal when the amps drop off and the fizzing slows down...oh and something that catches the satans brew that oozes out....not one for indoor carpeted areas


Regards
Rob
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talkToTheHat
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PostPosted: 18:48 - 20 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
I think the Tesco Momentum still has the same ethanol (alcohol) but it has an 'additive package to up the Octane from the standard 95/98 to their advertised 99


There does indeed seem to be ethanol in the 99octane.

May as well buy the 95RON fuel then. Every road bike i have owned will run on 91RON.
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Petemate
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PostPosted: 17:38 - 21 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

robocog wrote:
As its a spare and no massive rush to use it...

Electrolysis followed by a dusting of ACF50 or something that will stop it rusting again till its needed (store it in a dry place)

Electrolysis rocks and costs next to nothing to achieve great results that seem to last whenever I have done it

Vid of the last tank I did
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfGCS5lSR40

Very Happy

Only thing you need to keep an eye on is the electrodes getting cacked up - they need wire brushing back to clean metal when the amps drop off and the fizzing slows down...oh and something that catches the satans brew that oozes out....not one for indoor carpeted areas


Regards
Rob


Cheers Rob - I am now really confused. So even though the bike now goes like a rocket, and idles nice and pulls away smoothly, it seems I have nothing to gain by using super u/l. So for now I'll go back to using standard u/l, and keep the tank as full as possible to avoid condensation, which I tend to to anyway. I usually go for about 80-90 miles than top it up and this takes about £5.50-£6. It sure is doing good mpg.
Ta again
Pete
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MCN
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PostPosted: 17:47 - 21 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Petemate wrote:
robocog wrote:
As its a spare and no massive rush to use it...

Electrolysis followed by a dusting of ACF50 or something that will stop it rusting again till its needed (store it in a dry place)

Electrolysis rocks and costs next to nothing to achieve great results that seem to last whenever I have done it

Vid of the last tank I did
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfGCS5lSR40

Very Happy

Only thing you need to keep an eye on is the electrodes getting cacked up - they need wire brushing back to clean metal when the amps drop off and the fizzing slows down...oh and something that catches the satans brew that oozes out....not one for indoor carpeted areas


Regards
Rob


Cheers Rob - I am now really confused. So even though the bike now goes like a rocket, and idles nice and pulls away smoothly, it seems I have nothing to gain by using super u/l. So for now I'll go back to using standard u/l, and keep the tank as full as possible to avoid condensation, which I tend to to anyway. I usually go for about 80-90 miles than top it up and this takes about £5.50-£6. It sure is doing good mpg.
Ta again
Pete


www.petrolprices say:

"Super Fuels
Many of the large petrol companies have launched ‘super fuels’ – petrols and diesels that have a higher research octane level. These fuels are said to increase power in many vehicles, deliver less pollution than regular fuels and help to maintain a cleaner engine. Amongst these ‘super fuels’ are Tesco’s Super Unleaded 99 Octane petrol, supplied by Greenergy, now sold at many stations across the UK.
Using Super Fuels
One of our users commented that using higher octane fuel than your engine requires actually gives no benefit and may be a waste of money. This is because virtually NO engines require 98 RON over 95, and the market for ‘super’ fuels seems to be based on people’s misunderstanding of octane ratings and the placebo effect of filling up with ‘more powerful’ fuel – making motorists think their engine is running better in some way.
What do the fuel companies say then, to justify the “increased power” claims for the super grade fuels? Some companies say that while all fuels contain cleaning additives, ‘super’ fuels contain more or better detergents to keep the injectors cleaner than standard fuel. Others say the fuel is a few percent denser which gives slightly more power per litre. These benefits may be marginal though in comparison to the extra cost involved so it is worth ensuring that your engine will actually benefit before filling up.
Some engines actually do need higher octane fuel, such as race engines with very high compression and some turbocharged engines, such as the import version of the Nissan Skyline. Also, a few vehicles, such as the new BMW K1200R motorbike, can sense knock and adjust their engine tuning to take advantage of higher grade fuels. Another user commented that the 2004 BMW 330 also does this, according to the driver’s handbook it makes 231 BHP on 98 octane and 221 BHP on 95. This ability is apparently widespread amongst German performance cars using Bosch / Siemens electronic engine controls.
For further information on the major fuel companies fuel options see their individual information pages:"
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