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| kawashima |
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 kawashima World Chat Champion

Joined: 03 May 2005 Karma :    
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 Posted: 14:32 - 02 Jan 2016 Post subject: I'm afraid of CB750 RC42 |
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I passed full license on school's CB750 in 2005.
That CB750 at school was so heavy and bulky, non smooth throttle, rattle making noisy hot big engine, heavy non smooth handling. Everything was scary.
Couldn't control like CB400SF for 400 license. Wondered if they are using such bike to make full license difficult on purpose.
What interesting for me was even instructors at school seemed to ride CB400SF easier than CB750, and were doing faster slaloms.
Though I could pass test on CB750, it was because our test is done in a closed small course at slow speed. I can't think of wide open its throttle.
I wondered why is CB750 so difficult to ride while CB400SF is so easy to ride.
I owned W650 and TDM900 but they were twins and lighter than CB750, and were also very easy bikes to ride.
https://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b295/kawashima_/CB750_zpspicu75u4.jpg
I think I am not good at bikes with IL4 engine which makes the bike very wide and heavy. Parallel twin bikes have usually narrow width and it makes me feel friendly for riders while IL4 big bike especially like RC42 makes me feel difficult to ride, like if I lean the bike, I will lose the grip easily and crash.
I only once rented kwak shop's ZRX1200, of course I could run it on a straight road with no problem, but the handling was really heavy, and I thought "I can not make a quick maneuver like swerve to avoid collision on this bike".
I have a full license but this isn't equal to having full license in UK.
So I won't be able to ride big bike over 1000cc safely yet. ____________________ own:2020 Serow 250
owned: 2012 YB125SP, 2008 TDM900, 2005 W650, 2002 LS125R, 2002 CB400SF, NS50F, C50 / Trip to UK(2009), Hokkaido touring(2013) |
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| doggone |
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 doggone World Chat Champion

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| kawashima |
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 kawashima World Chat Champion

Joined: 03 May 2005 Karma :    
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 Posted: 14:53 - 02 Jan 2016 Post subject: |
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| doggone wrote: | I'm surprised you found it hard to swerve for example, it's all technique really and counter-steering will make it turn or change lane as sharply as you could ever want.
They can be big unwieldy things to move when parking though, I guess almost everyone has had an embarrassing moment. Once they start to go over it's hard to stop unless you are very strong, and picking it up again is enough to cause injury if it's in a difficult position to get hold of it in the ideal way. |
I think I don't know properly how to do counter-steering yet. If I want to turn right suddenly like emergency, I push right grip forward. This is what I know but maybe I can't do it well.
Can a skilled rider do a emergency swerve on heavy bike as sharp as 400cc? I thought ZRX1200 was difficult compared to lighter bikes.
------
I watched this video of counter steering, I think I'm doing this unconsciously.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PbmXxwKbmA ____________________ own:2020 Serow 250
owned: 2012 YB125SP, 2008 TDM900, 2005 W650, 2002 LS125R, 2002 CB400SF, NS50F, C50 / Trip to UK(2009), Hokkaido touring(2013) |
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 Nexus Icon World Chat Champion
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| Beehive Bedlam |
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 Beehive Bedlam World Chat Champion
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| Itchy |
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 Itchy Super Spammer

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| esullivan |
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 esullivan Could Be A Chat Bot

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 Posted: 16:40 - 02 Jan 2016 Post subject: |
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The bigger bikes are hardest on the slow-speed and confined spaces manoeuvres that you did for your test in Japan. Once you get moving, they are no different than the 400, except that they feel less stressed, more relaxed at higher speeds.
I tried out a couple of litre bikes when I was looking for a change earlier this year, because I do a significant number of trips a year with a pillion. I tried the Honda VFR 1200 and the Triumph Street Triple 1050. Both were easy to ride on the move -- they didn't feel any different than the 700cc I had before -- but they felt a bit heavy on the slow-speed filtering that I need to do daily on my commute. The VFR 800 (with a V4 engine) I settled on isn't much lighter, to be honest, but it feels a bit better balanced and I have no trouble filtering. (Although I did drop the bike in a parking lot not too long ago...)
Don't necessarily discount the larger-bore bikes because of your experience in slow-speed stuff. You get used to that. It wouldn't take you very long. But I'd only get a bigger bike if you need one -- long trips, two-up or lots of motorways, where the bigger engine can be an advantage. ____________________ Current: '14 VFR800X Test passed 31/10/12.
Previous: '12 NC700S, '11 CBF 125, '04 SH 125. |
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| Nobby the Bastard |
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 Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar

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| stevo as b4 |
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 stevo as b4 World Chat Champion
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 17:36 - 02 Jan 2016 Post subject: |
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https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10606032_838323939525858_2724844332140488475_n.jpg?oh=584e4f3c70a56087d7677ca3c7d79260&oe=57064C12
- 3" over-length rear shocks with Heavy-Duty Springs and dampers (It 'sits' on it's wheels at almost the same height as rested on the side-stand!!)
- Yokes dropped 3/4" down the stanchions, progressive wounds springs, heavier weight fork oil.
- 'Solid' mount foot-pegs, 2" further back, 1 1/2" higher up
- lower, narrower 'LC' bars
- 'Almost' open 4-1 + rejet
I don't know WHAT you're problem with one is?
It's NOT a nimble bike. It's heavy, 210Kg by the book; and its 'long', with 'conservative' steering geometry and 'soggy' suspension, as standard. Motor, is air-cooled, and 'de-tuned' from the 95bhp of the CBX engine it's derived from, down to 75bhp; the 20bhp lost on top (with about 2,000 extra rpm at the red-line) spread around the low and mid-range; it's NOT a rev hungry bike, and with big beef low down, yeah, does behave a bit tractor like! Stock geometry/suspension also tends to 'push' the front, and its none to keen to lean.. as stock, its pretty much a 'barge', and was sold in the US, I believe as a 'Starter-Bike'.. a big 'softie'.
The motor, so de-tuned for low and mid-range, as well as possibly emmissions on stock jetted versions, more so I suspect later post Y2K models, is a bit 'odd' in it's nature and doesn't behave much like a more modern water-cooled 'four', more like a V-Twin...personally I like it, it's a it 'wooly' low down, but then it get's into it's stride, and is at t's best the mid-range, delivering 'drive' like a V-Twin without the snatchiness or starting to feel asthmatic and loath to rev any higher.. and very easy to bounce off the rev limiter! The whole 'character' of the thing has grown on me in the last ten years; even tweeked a bit to suit my tastes, its still a bit of a barge, and it never did anything brilliantly; it's not what its about, it just does an awful lot 'competently'... and its a heck of a lot less 'barge-like' than a lot of the 80's 'muscle' I have known! Depends on what your references are I suppose.
And they will 'lean'.. and even 'hustle' a bit in the twsties, given a bit of encouragement! With a 34" inside leg, them pegs didn't get shifted closer to my arse for 'comfort'!
The rattles? Yeah... nature of not having a water-jacket... it's a 'feature', particularly on start up... lets you know the alternator chain is still on it's sprockets! I think they designed it in actually to stop 'old Honda four' rider's, used to the 'Knock Knock' cam-chain jokes, having apoplexy wondering what was 'missing' when they rode one  ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| kawashima |
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 kawashima World Chat Champion

Joined: 03 May 2005 Karma :    
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 Posted: 21:57 - 02 Jan 2016 Post subject: |
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| Nexus Icon wrote: | You MUST be counter-steering subconsciously or you'd crash at every corner at speeds over 5mph. |
Thank you I'm relieved to know I was doing right. I must have crashed some of mine if I couldn't do it at all. Can't lean deep though
| MrGs1 wrote: | Don't ride one then.
*Runs for flame suit* |
In one sense this was what I was doing till now = avoid big IL4 bike.
(Plus I'm out of money at the moment )
I was curious how lot's of big bike owners have overcome riding them.
| Itchy wrote: | Kawashima... your country has some of the BEST roads on the planet! There is no issue with grip except in the mountains where they cut small drainage channels into them.
Though it sure does rain a lot btw my sister is going to Japan Sunday somewhere in Saitama, fancy a box of Mccoys?
Anyway riding is not about the machine. It is all about the psychology of riding and your mental state. This is why Donna on her VFR400 could outride all of us as she had bigger balls than all of us at the time. Or how our now gone London rider who is 4ft 9 inches can ride a FireBlade.
Become 鉄人and try. A month later you'll wonder what all the fuss was about.
One exception 2004 ZX-10R...  |
I could enjoyed mountain road mostly on W650 except its poor brake.
(nega is our 40km/h(25mph) limit everywhere on winding roads =easily instant license revoke. I envy your NSL(50mph) road in UK!). I admire small/short person who can ride big bikes. I'm 5.7 tall but still taller than average female person. I reckon VFR400 / Fireblade for small female must be like a GL1800 or bosshoss for me.
I was always wondering why small/short person can control big bikes but it must be the amount of practice plus psychology of riding and your mental state you mentioned
| esullivan wrote: | The bigger bikes are hardest on the slow-speed and confined spaces manoeuvres that you did for your test in Japan. Once you get moving, they are no different than the 400, except that they feel less stressed, more relaxed at higher speeds.
I tried out a couple of litre bikes when I was looking for a change earlier this year, because I do a significant number of trips a year with a pillion. I tried the Honda VFR 1200 and the Triumph Street Triple 1050. Both were easy to ride on the move -- they didn't feel any different than the 700cc I had before -- but they felt a bit heavy on the slow-speed filtering that I need to do daily on my commute. The VFR 800 (with a V4 engine) I settled on isn't much lighter, to be honest, but it feels a bit better balanced and I have no trouble filtering. (Although I did drop the bike in a parking lot not too long ago...)
Don't necessarily discount the larger-bore bikes because of your experience in slow-speed stuff. You get used to that. It wouldn't take you very long. But I'd only get a bigger bike if you need one -- long trips, two-up or lots of motorways, where the bigger engine can be an advantage. |
Thank you for letting me know about this. The max speed I did on CB750 was 25mph only on a short straight, mostly around or under 10mph in a small course. You let me know I was doing the hardest part for big bike which confined spaces manoeuvres, and that was why I felt CB400 easier than CB750, it makes sense for me
And thanks for your experiences on big bikes. It relieved me a lot. ZRX1200 was short 20 minutes ride under 30mph in town, perhaps I didn't get used to it.
Now I'm on 125 due to budget reason, and enjoying rather small bike, but wanted to know if I will be able to go to a big bike as a possible choice in the future. Your response was really helpful
| Nobby the Bastard wrote: | It's conter-intuitive to manage heavy bikes at slow speed. You automatically want to back off the throttle when it starts to get un-manageable when turning.
That's the worst thing you should do. Add a bit of throttle. It'll promptly stand up out of the turn and take all the weight off. |
Thank you for this tip Our school didn't teach this kind of tips at all. They were saying open the throttle at slalom test though.
| stevo as b4 wrote: | To OP, I'd like to hear more about the Japanese big bike test system and also well basically loads about the bike market and what's popular in Japan these days? How are you for emissions laws, can you still have 2stroke street bikes? Is the 4year old bike being to hard to get an MOT on a myth? and did we steal all of the nice sexy Grey bikes from the homeland, and is it true your buying them back again from Europe now? |
It's really simple system. At 16 you can try 400 license and if you pass, you can ride under 400. At 18 you can try full license and if you pass, you can ride any bikes. Our test is separated to practical and theory. Before 1996 both of them were available only at driver's License Centre, and it was such hard test only 1% could pass. But after 1996 (thanks to Harley or BMW pressure to Japan gov) practical part became possible to replace it with graduation of riding school which is much much easier. Also riding school teaches us how to pass the test (done by them). Theory part has to be passed at driver's License Centre, but car and bike theory test are same, so I had car license first, so I don't need to pass it again. So for car license holders they can have bike license only by going to school by paying fee.
Some school are strict and doesn't let us try full license before having 400 license for some period(for safety reason), but some tolerant schools let them have 400 + full license in a row at the same time So by paying money, person over18 with no bike experience at all can have full license, and can buy and ride harley or bmw. So lots of such people are killed in road accidents especially elder rich people.
I think this system is really really dangerous, and license system SHOULD be like one in UK in my opinion.
p.s. this video is what our test for full license is like
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDDBE9EwwwQ
regarding emission, it's nearly same as Euro3 + stricter noise regulation I reckon. But it applies for newly sold model only, and owner can still ride 2T or old 4T models like in Europe.
We still find 2T used bike at shops. Popular models with good condition usually have very expensive price tags though.
| Teflon-Mike wrote: | - 3" over-length rear shocks with Heavy-Duty Springs and dampers (It 'sits' on it's wheels at almost the same height as rested on the side-stand!!)
- Yokes dropped 3/4" down the stanchions, progressive wounds springs, heavier weight fork oil.
- 'Solid' mount foot-pegs, 2" further back, 1 1/2" higher up
- lower, narrower 'LC' bars
- 'Almost' open 4-1 + rejet
I don't know WHAT you're problem with one is?
It's NOT a nimble bike. It's heavy, 210Kg by the book; and its 'long', with 'conservative' steering geometry and 'soggy' suspension, as standard. Motor, is air-cooled, and 'de-tuned' from the 95bhp of the CBX engine it's derived from, down to 75bhp; the 20bhp lost on top (with about 2,000 extra rpm at the red-line) spread around the low and mid-range; it's NOT a rev hungry bike, and with big beef low down, yeah, does behave a bit tractor like! Stock geometry/suspension also tends to 'push' the front, and its none to keen to lean.. as stock, its pretty much a 'barge', and was sold in the US, I believe as a 'Starter-Bike'.. a big 'softie'.
The motor, so de-tuned for low and mid-range, as well as possibly emmissions on stock jetted versions, more so I suspect later post Y2K models, is a bit 'odd' in it's nature and doesn't behave much like a more modern water-cooled 'four', more like a V-Twin...personally I like it, it's a it 'wooly' low down, but then it get's into it's stride, and is at t's best the mid-range, delivering 'drive' like a V-Twin without the snatchiness or starting to feel asthmatic and loath to rev any higher.. and very easy to bounce off the rev limiter! The whole 'character' of the thing has grown on me in the last ten years; even tweeked a bit to suit my tastes, its still a bit of a barge, and it never did anything brilliantly; it's not what its about, it just does an awful lot 'competently'... and its a heck of a lot less 'barge-like' than a lot of the 80's 'muscle' I have known! Depends on what your references are I suppose.
And they will 'lean'.. and even 'hustle' a bit in the twsties, given a bit of encouragement! With a 34" inside leg, them pegs didn't get shifted closer to my arse for 'comfort'!
The rattles? Yeah... nature of not having a water-jacket... it's a 'feature', particularly on start up... lets you know the alternator chain is still on it's sprockets! I think they designed it in actually to stop 'old Honda four' rider's, used to the 'Knock Knock' cam-chain jokes, having apoplexy wondering what was 'missing' when they rode one  |
Thank you I could learn about CB750. Reading your explanation, CB750 doesn't seem to be attractive bike for me barge bike with detune and low down, not keen to lean at stock. And also by doing some customs the bike becomes a good one too!
I didn't know this was sold in US market too. (Under 25mph riding it may be too early for me to know about CB750 well though) ____________________ own:2020 Serow 250
owned: 2012 YB125SP, 2008 TDM900, 2005 W650, 2002 LS125R, 2002 CB400SF, NS50F, C50 / Trip to UK(2009), Hokkaido touring(2013) |
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| deadwolf |
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 deadwolf Could Be A Chat Bot

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| trevor saxe-coburg-gotha |
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 trevor saxe-coburg-gotha World Chat Champion

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 Posted: 07:55 - 03 Jan 2016 Post subject: |
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This is quite interesting for showing just what could be gotten away with in relation to the biggest of the big bikes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHo0DiqXAys ____________________ "Life is a sexually transmitted disease and the mortality rate is one hundred percent."
Mobylette Type 50 ---> Raleigh Grifter ---> Neval Minsk 125 |
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| kawashima |
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 kawashima World Chat Champion

Joined: 03 May 2005 Karma :    
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 Posted: 09:16 - 03 Jan 2016 Post subject: |
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| deadwolf wrote: | | kawashima wrote: | So by paying money, person over18 with no bike experience at all can have full license, and can buy and ride harley or bmw. So lots of such people are killed in road accidents especially elder rich people.
I think this system is really really dangerous, and license system SHOULD be like one in UK in my opinion.
|
Isn't this basically like the UK's DAS?
I read somewhere that when swerving/turning at high speeds, just pushing on one side of the handlebar isn't enough and you need to push and pull with both hands in the direction you want to go. Can anyone else chime in with evidence for/against this? Seems like a subconscious action kinda thing.
Have you seen 70's AMA superbike racing before? Basically lots of long and heavy 4-cylinder bikes being hustled around racetracks by tiny riders. Sure, the bikes have been heavily modified but it always amazes me how quickly they can flick the big machines over when tackling a series of curves.
https://www.cycleworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Eddie-Lawson_intext3.jpg
https://www.cycleworld.com/2013/05/31/origins-of-american-superbike-racing/ |
I forgot about DAS. It looks similar to ours(24yo though).
I didn't know well about AMA superbike so I watched some youtube videos. They were very exiting. In some video a racer (Mr. Cooley) was explaining the huge difference between race bike and normal bike. And I thought it's special tuned bike (which looks like normal bike from a distance) ridden by a super pros.
| trevor saxe-coburg-gotha wrote: | |
I found a lot of old air cooled big naked CBX1000 6cylinder GS1000 XS1100 ridden like a racing bikes. Such vintage big nakeds could be ridden like that wow.  ____________________ own:2020 Serow 250
owned: 2012 YB125SP, 2008 TDM900, 2005 W650, 2002 LS125R, 2002 CB400SF, NS50F, C50 / Trip to UK(2009), Hokkaido touring(2013) |
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| nowhere.elysium |
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 nowhere.elysium The Pork Lord

Joined: 02 Mar 2009 Karma :    
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 Posted: 09:28 - 03 Jan 2016 Post subject: |
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Big air/oil-cooled fours are great fun to ride. It's not the same thing as riding a narrow or small bike at all, although it uses exactly the same skills. Personally, I'd suggest having a go of a few middleweight air cooled i4s before deciding they're not for you. Yes, they're noisy and hot, but that's part of the charm: There's something delightfully unrefined about the experience that makes the extra effort worth it.
Don't be under the illusion that it will handle like a 400, though: They need to be told what to do, as opposed to it merely being suggested to them. Don't be afraid to use your body weight and shoulder strength to give it that extra little bit of convincing. ____________________ '10 SV650SF, '83 GS650GT (it lives!), Questionable DIY dash project, 3D Printer project, Lasercutter project |
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| Northern Monkey |
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 Northern Monkey World Chat Champion

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 Posted: 10:06 - 03 Jan 2016 Post subject: |
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| kawashima wrote: | | doggone wrote: | I'm surprised you found it hard to swerve for example, it's all technique really and counter-steering will make it turn or change lane as sharply as you could ever want.
They can be big unwieldy things to move when parking though, I guess almost everyone has had an embarrassing moment. Once they start to go over it's hard to stop unless you are very strong, and picking it up again is enough to cause injury if it's in a difficult position to get hold of it in the ideal way. |
I think I don't know properly how to do counter-steering yet. If I want to turn right suddenly like emergency, I push right grip forward. This is what I know but maybe I can't do it well.
Can a skilled rider do a emergency swerve on heavy bike as sharp as 400cc? I thought ZRX1200 was difficult compared to lighter bikes.
------
I watched this video of counter steering, I think I'm doing this unconsciously.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PbmXxwKbmA |
Find a big wide road, 3 lanes in each direction, when it's nice and quiet, and ride down the middle lane at ~80-90kph.
Open your hands, so that your fingers are flat, above the grips, and your thumb is under the grip, so that you can only push the bars, not pull. Grip the tank with your knees
Now, very gently, push the left bar, and the bike will go left. Push right gently, and the bike will stand upright. As you get more confident you can push a little harder.
At the next corner, try this again, and you will find that you can make the bike lean, and stand up much more easily by pushing.
Combine this with what Nobby said earlier, using the power of the bike to stand up, so that as you exit the corner, you use a combination of pushing, and increasing the power. As the bike gets more upright, apply more power.
Bigger bikes need a larger push to get them to lean, and your body weight, in proportion to the weight of the bike is less. If you are not very heavy, then a bigger bike will need a big push to get it to move about. ____________________ Fisty: after polishing the tank with the glistenng beads of sweat from my full hot scrotum, I filled the headrace bearings with 10cc of my manmilk |
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 ADSrox0r World Chat Champion

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 kawashima World Chat Champion

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 Posted: 16:15 - 03 Jan 2016 Post subject: |
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| Northern Monkey wrote: | Find a big wide road, 3 lanes in each direction, when it's nice and quiet, and ride down the middle lane at ~80-90kph.
Open your hands, so that your fingers are flat, above the grips, and your thumb is under the grip, so that you can only push the bars, not pull. Grip the tank with your knees
Now, very gently, push the left bar, and the bike will go left. Push right gently, and the bike will stand upright. As you get more confident you can push a little harder.
At the next corner, try this again, and you will find that you can make the bike lean, and stand up much more easily by pushing.
Combine this with what Nobby said earlier, using the power of the bike to stand up, so that as you exit the corner, you use a combination of pushing, and increasing the power. As the bike gets more upright, apply more power.
Bigger bikes need a larger push to get them to lean, and your body weight, in proportion to the weight of the bike is less. If you are not very heavy, then a bigger bike will need a big push to get it to move about. |
Thank you for this tip! I didn't know about this how to. I'm going to try this on mine  ____________________ own:2020 Serow 250
owned: 2012 YB125SP, 2008 TDM900, 2005 W650, 2002 LS125R, 2002 CB400SF, NS50F, C50 / Trip to UK(2009), Hokkaido touring(2013) |
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| stevo as b4 |
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 stevo as b4 World Chat Champion
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 Posted: 16:36 - 03 Jan 2016 Post subject: |
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I feel a bit wimp myself about one of my dream bikes, but suspect apart from old fashioned handling and braking that I've not been used to with 90's> machines that there would be little to worry about?
I've lost a bit weight and strength in my 30's, and am enjoying little circa 100kg bikes so much at the moment, so I suppose a 280kg bike would feel a touch strange or different maybe?
But every time I see an example of the biggest of Zed's I still think I definitely would!  |
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 kawashima World Chat Champion

Joined: 03 May 2005 Karma :    
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 Posted: 10:25 - 04 Jan 2016 Post subject: |
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I've tested on mine, at lower speed I didn't need much strength but at faster speed even on 125 I needed to push with enough strength.
This must be more on heavier bike. This is really important tip for surviving. Thanks again I will do this on purpose from time to time.
| talkToTheHat wrote: | One hand is plenty, pushing with one and pulling with the other at the same time is likely to reduce control by further damling the self-correcting geometry of the bike.
Push the right bar to start turning right. If you're enjoying some lean angle and moreso if hanging off, pushing the left bar to stand the bike up is difficult, so pull the right bar back towards you. This is what is meant by push-pull.
Wide tyres and narrow bars (especially clip ons) make for heavier steering. An r1 needs a hard shove but the bars barely move, a cruiser with a narrow front (like a virago) needs very little effort but the bars move a disconcerting amount.
A standard bike with wide aftermarket bars can be really twitchy. I cut the ends of my renthals to get a more stable feel. |
I felt the same, push and pull seemed to cause losing balance on mine. ____________________ own:2020 Serow 250
owned: 2012 YB125SP, 2008 TDM900, 2005 W650, 2002 LS125R, 2002 CB400SF, NS50F, C50 / Trip to UK(2009), Hokkaido touring(2013) |
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