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Reg Tidy
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 25 Jun 2015
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PostPosted: 12:42 - 25 Mar 2016    Post subject: Electrical issues Reply with quote

When I turn my lights on:
tacho stops working,
left and right indicator idiot lights dimly illuminate.

Noticed there was a 30 amp fuse for the tail light. Supposed to be 10.
Pulled tail light fuse; problem goes away.

Replaced with correct 10 amp fuse. 1 indicator and 1 tail light bulb blow.

I know next to nothing about electrics, but I do have a multimeter and a vague idea of how to use it.

Did a diode test on reg/reg. It passed.

Any idiot proof guidance appreciated.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 16:45 - 25 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

What happens to the tacho when the fuse for the rear light is pulled and the lights are turned on?

Edit, read your post properly.

You need to go through each wire to the rear light cluster and find the one which has continuity to the frame. Somewhere, one of your wires has chafed just enough for power to go directly to earth (the frame)
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Pete.
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Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 16:56 - 25 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some clue as to what model of motorbike would be a great help.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Reg Tidy
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 25 Jun 2015
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PostPosted: 17:16 - 25 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, sounds like a plan. Thanks nobby.

It's a 99' Kwak ZR-7 Embarassed . Long story; almost as dull as the bike.
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Roberts 1
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 26 Mar 2016
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PostPosted: 10:29 - 26 Mar 2016    Post subject: electric issue Reply with quote

I have a problem with my Honda cbr600 fy the battery is over charging I've checked all the earth points and replaced the rectifier but still the same. Any ideas
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Steve10RMc
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 26 Mar 2016
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PostPosted: 23:10 - 26 Mar 2016    Post subject: Re: electric issue Reply with quote

Roberts 1 wrote:
I have a problem with my Honda cbr600 fy the battery is over charging I've checked all the earth points and replaced the rectifier but still the same. Any ideas


Hi i have just joined today and came across your post.

The rectifier converts AC Electric to DC that is usable to charge your Battery.

The regulator is what controls the DC Voltage to charge your Battery.

Generators are capable of generating way more voltage than is needed
to charge the Battery so the Regulator, Regulates the voltage supplied to the Battery approx between 13.5 to 14.8 Volts depending on Battery state.

I would recommend changing your Regulator.

Another cause of this problem can be an open circuit in your charging circuit but that is unlikely and rarely is the cause.

Hope that helps Steve
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 05:37 - 27 Mar 2016    Post subject: Re: Electrical issues Reply with quote

Reg Tidy wrote:
When I turn my lights on:
tacho stops working,
left and right indicator idiot lights dimly illuminate.

Noticed there was a 30 amp fuse for the tail light. Supposed to be 10.
Pulled tail light fuse; problem goes away.

Replaced with correct 10 amp fuse. 1 indicator and 1 tail light bulb blow.

I know next to nothing about electrics, but I do have a multimeter and a vague idea of how to use it.

Did a diode test on reg/reg. It passed.

Any idiot proof guidance appreciated.


Odd one to diagnose, the first thing I would ask is - do you have an alarm fitted? If not I would un-plug the rear cluster and try the lights again.

Roberts1 you should start your own thread with your problem. Trying to diagnose two separate problems in one thread is going to get very messy and confusing.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Reg Tidy
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 25 Jun 2015
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PostPosted: 10:18 - 27 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time is limited right now, but I managed to have another quick ferret.


Unplugged rear cluster (tail, brake and reg plate light):
No change.


Unplugged all rear indicators:
Now just the left indicator light and high beam light illuminate, but a little stronger than before. Didn't check tacho at this stage.


The rear section of the loom has been replaced or altered and covered with cable ducting tube.
I unpacked it and found three earth leads joined into one coming from the main loom. They are just crimped together.
See the pic. It's a bit blurry, but you should get the idea.


After I exposed this join (but still leaving them joined) I tried to recreate the problem again. Started engine, lights on and problem has
gone. Tacho works and no illumination of indicator lights or high beam light.


To clarify about the join. It was as pictured, but wrapped in electrical tape and encased in black plastic eletrical conduit tube or whatever it is called.

EDIT:

Just had another test and this time the left indicator light and the high beam light are lit.
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Reg Tidy
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 25 Jun 2015
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PostPosted: 16:36 - 27 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, so. The fault* is intermittent now.

Have tried what I think is continuity testing of the leads (attached photo) at the back of the loom to the frame.

What I did;

Multimeter set to 200 Ohm. Touch leads together gives base resistance of 0.62 to 0.8 ish
1 lead to frame
2nd lead to each wire

Results;

3 earths: as I would expect read 0.8
Red: goes a bit haywire, but settles at 6.2
Red & Blue: no reading. Display does not change from "1 ."

Green: 1.2
Grey: 6.2

Should all the non earth wire produce no result?

Thanks for all the help so far. This electrical stuff is pretty hard to get your head around.







*Turn lights on = tacho dies. Left, right indicator and high beam idiot lights dimly lit. + The odd blown bulb.
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Pete.
Super Spammer



Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 16:59 - 27 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

That earth junction crimp is normal for a bike loom.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Islander
World Chat Champion



Joined: 05 Aug 2012
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 27 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is that crimp nice and tight?
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Reg Tidy
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 25 Jun 2015
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PostPosted: 17:37 - 27 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I realised the crimp was not an issue. And it seems to be well crimped.

So the red, grey and green wires are showing some resistance (and therefore some continuity presumably) to the frame.

Does this mean those wires are the problem?
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Islander
World Chat Champion



Joined: 05 Aug 2012
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PostPosted: 19:42 - 27 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're probably measuring the resistance of the load (lamps). Check along the wires for chafing or nicks that could be causing a short to earth.
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Reg Tidy
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 25 Jun 2015
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PostPosted: 21:53 - 30 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think some dodgy rewiring with badly crimped on bullet connectors for the front indicators might have been been to blame.
I got rid of the bullets and hooked the indicators up with solder and heat shrink.

Funny thing is, after doing that I turned on the lights to see if all was fixed. The indicator idiot light lit up again brighter than they did before and when I turned the left indicator on the right idiot light flashed (pulsed) and when indicating right the left idiot light flashed.

So after switching everything off and think FML. I turned ignition back on a few minutes later and tried the lights again.
All fixed.

I have NFI what is going on, but it seems okay for now.

Maybe it's the flasher relay. Do they malfunction weirdly? Or is it a case of it either works or it doesn't?

Thanks for all the help. Thumbs Up I may be back soon.

Also does anybody have any links to any resources where I can learn all about this electrikery stuff in an idiot proof manner?
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Pete.
Super Spammer



Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 05:26 - 31 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reg Tidy wrote:

Funny thing is, after doing that I turned on the lights to see if all was fixed. The indicator idiot light lit up again brighter than they did before and when I turned the left indicator on the right idiot light flashed (pulsed) and when indicating right the left idiot light flashed.

So after switching everything off and think FML. I turned ignition back on a few minutes later and tried the lights again.
All fixed.

I have NFI what is going on, but it seems okay for now.


If I were you I would not take the current condition as a sign that it's all working properly. You obviously still have a problem, it's just a matter of the next time it goes wrong how bad it will be. Could be anything from a dimly-lit bulb to a full-on loom meltdown and resulting fireball.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Reg Tidy
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 25 Jun 2015
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PostPosted: 10:08 - 01 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Reg Tidy wrote:

Funny thing is, after doing that I turned on the lights to see if all was fixed. The indicator idiot light lit up again brighter than they did before and when I turned the left indicator on the right idiot light flashed (pulsed) and when indicating right the left idiot light flashed.

So after switching everything off and think FML. I turned ignition back on a few minutes later and tried the lights again.
All fixed.

I have NFI what is going on, but it seems okay for now.


If I were you I would not take the current condition as a sign that it's all working properly. You obviously still have a problem, it's just a matter of the next time it goes wrong how bad it will be. Could be anything from a dimly-lit bulb to a full-on loom meltdown and resulting fireball.



This fireball thing sounds less than ideal.

Am I going to have to disassemble the whole loom? Is it likely that there is a short within the loom itself?

The rear part of the loom that I stripped back looked brand new.

When I measured the resistance to the frame of some wires at the back and front the green wire had significantly less resistance than the rest.
Does this imply the green wire has continuity? The front and back left indicator uses this wire.
Does it sound like I am heading in the right direction with this?

Actually might be an idea to do this test again now I have neatened up the wiring.

One more thing. I do have a pig tail for an optimate attached to the battery. I'm assuming this is not problem, but thought worth a mention anyway.
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alains
World Chat Champion



Joined: 08 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 11:58 - 01 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

think about changing the loom
try to make good tin soldering on your multi shunt wires
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Reg Tidy
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 25 Jun 2015
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PostPosted: 12:26 - 01 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

alains wrote:
think about changing the loom
try to make good tin soldering on your multi shunt wires


New loom is 200 ponds. Used loom could be similarly farked. If I'm spending money it might just be better to throw the bike at a pro?

Previous owner/s have chopped the loom front and back (lights, indicators) and re wired with with iffy bullets and exposed wire which I have
soldered and heat shrunk the worst of.

By multi shunt do you mean take apart the block connectors and re solder?

Anyway I think it's slowly dawning on me that I'm going to have to through the ball ache of pulling the loom off the bike and go through every
inch of wire so I can be confident of dodging the great ball of fire. Goodness gracious me Rolling Eyes
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alains
World Chat Champion



Joined: 08 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 13:04 - 01 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes make a nice splice (like you do in marine cordage) then tin solder and good insulation
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