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Pulse adrenaline crunch grinding noise!

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MrRawlings
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 14 Mar 2016
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PostPosted: 23:11 - 14 Mar 2016    Post subject: Pulse adrenaline crunch grinding noise! Reply with quote

Right guys, I'm new here and I'm in need of some mechanical help! i own a 63 plate pulse adrenaline...yes I know it's Chinese so please don't tell me that I should something else Laughing I've owned it for around a month now but I've got a few issues with it. It's done 5000 miles and seems like it's been taken care of...?

The 2 main issues are,

The first issue is it idles lumpy and cuts itself out every now and again, when I brought it I thought it would be simple fix like adjusting the idle screw, turns out it doesn't change the fact that it sounds like it's choking. Which leads me to believe it's something to do with air intake?

The second issue it has which is the biggest one is, when releasing the clutch at low speeds in any gear I get a horrible grinding/crunching noise from down by my left foot! I've tried adjusting the clutch cable to see if it would change and it didn't make any significant difference to it.

When I brought the bike it didn't make that noise and over the last week it's been more prominent, I'm not the most mechanically minded person but I'm willing to give anything a go!

After owning the bike for a week riding back and forth to work that it would be best to check everything over as I didn't get chance the day I purchased it. Everything seemed great...apart from one thing...NO OIL Sad would this be what would have caused the crunching noise I'm getting now ? Immediately brought oil that day and topped it up so I'm hoping I didn't do much damage!

The bike has a few mods

•150cc big bore kit
•carb re jetted
•k&n air filter
•full dep exhaust

Hoping one of you guys can help shed abit of light on what could be the cause of my problems!
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snake87
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Joined: 12 Mar 2016
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PostPosted: 23:22 - 14 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

If its a wet clutch and its dry of oil, I would suspect that has caused the grinding sounds. Does the clutch sound better now you have topped up the oil?

Engine issues, if its had a big bore kit, has it been fitted and been worn in properly? Check the engine has plenty of compression. You could have a fractured ring

Dan
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Last edited by snake87 on 23:24 - 14 Mar 2016; edited 1 time in total
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 23:24 - 14 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the chain oiled and adjusted?
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Ariel Badger
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Joined: 02 Dec 2006
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PostPosted: 23:30 - 14 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

NO OIL Sad could possibly be a problem Rolling Eyes
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snake87
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PostPosted: 23:34 - 14 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ariel Badger wrote:
NO OIL Sad could possibly be a problem Rolling Eyes


Its definitely a 'oooh crap!!' moment when you find no oil Neutral
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MrRawlings
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 14 Mar 2016
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PostPosted: 23:43 - 14 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeh it's a wet clutch, the thing is it's only just started doing it and oil is the first thing I check before leaving as I'm paranoid about it now! It sounds as if the gears aren't engaging properly as i get the noise just before the clutch is fully released? Would warped or worn clutch plates cause it not to engage fully? I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty on the weekend as its a simple job replacing them from what I've seen! The big bore kit had done 800miles before I got my hands on the bike so I'm unsure if the previous owner ran it in properly Confused The chain has the right amount of freeplay when I'm sat on it and is oiled on a regular basis.
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Evil Hans
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Joined: 08 Nov 2015
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PostPosted: 23:55 - 14 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmmm. The problem isn't that you bought a Chinese bike. The problem is that you bought a Chinese bike that's been fucked about with.

Did you change the oil or only top it up? Might be worth draining it to get the crap out and see how it runs with fresh oil.

Also ... Slack chain, flat tyres, bent swing arm and welded on sprockets. And the wrong colour power band.
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MrRawlings
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 14 Mar 2016
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PostPosted: 00:21 - 15 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I only topped up the oil but I'll drain it, refill and change the oil filter on Friday see if that makes a difference, I owned a yzf r125 previous to this bike and in comparison yes the Yamaha may have been more reliable buuut the pulse is way more fun! The spockets have been changed also so it now has a top end of 80...given the right conditions Laughing just a thought, wouldn't I loose power and torque from lack of engine compression and the 150 kit not being ran in properly? Because it runs extremely well once you've gotten past the crunching! I'm going to order new clutch plates and fit them Friday (if they're here in time) when I do the oil change. I believe I read somewhere that valve clearance/timing and/or a bad cam chain can cause a lumpy idle? Is this true? I want to learn and be able to repair things myself for future reference. Could it be down to air/fuel mix? It's driving me crazy as you can open the throttle fully and it doesn't splutter or struggle just smooth power which leads me to believe it's getting the right amount of air and fuel Neutral
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NJD
World Chat Champion



Joined: 11 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 00:57 - 15 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I feel sorry for the bike.

The biggest problem you've got is that the bikes been messed around with no doubt by someone who has absolutely no idea what they're doing because they've read somewhere on the internet it makes the bike go faster and its well cool and when its gone tits up its ended up on Gumtree as "mint, runs fine m8" and you've purchased it.

Secondly is that you've possibly ran the engine with no oil.

No, wait, there's a third problem. If you haven't even checked if the bike has oil in what else have you missed or not asked about? The sellers not going to include information that might prevent you from handing your money over because "sorry lad forgot you didn't ask at the time. Oh well you've purchased it now "sold as seen" sorry m8."

Anyway, moving forward.

(1) Remove all added parts and return to standard.

(2) Give the bike a full service. Either pay a local well reviewed or recommended trusted independent to do it or go out and buy the Haynes 4871 and all the tools, lube, oil, spark plug etc and do it all yourself.

And then see where you're at.
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snake87
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PostPosted: 01:13 - 15 Mar 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

MrRawlings wrote:
just a thought, wouldn't I loose power and torque from lack of engine compression and the 150 kit not being ran in properly? Because it runs extremely well once you've gotten past the crunching! Neutral


I ended up with a bust ring on a liquid cooled 2000 Yamaha DT125 many years ago, my symptoms where rough idle and lots of stalling when warm but its power wasn't massively reduced, only enough to notice.

The kick start was always quite easy to turn on the bike, I tested the compression by putting the bike into first gear with the engine off and gently turning the rear wheel by hand. There should have been a good amount of resistance, but in my case the wheel turned the engine over too freely.
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