ER5 Tank Removal

[sab478]

I've recently inherited a Kawasaki ER5. I needed to remove the tank because of suspected problems with the carbs. All my previous bikes have had the fuel tap bolted into the tank, so with a vacuum activated tap I've known it's safe to just pull the hoses off when the tap is turned to ON or RESERVE. On the ER5 the tap is bolted to the frame and connected to the tank with hoses. However, looking in the manual for the ER5 it says the same:

•Turn the fuel tap to the On or RES position.
•Pull the hoses off the tap.
•Remove the fuel tank bolt [A].
•Remove the fuel tap bolts.
•Pull the fuel tap outlet hose [A] and vacuum hose [B] off the tap.
•Disconnect the fuel level sensor lead connector [A].
•Pull the overflow drain hose [B] off the fuel level sensor assembly.
•Pull the upper drain hose off the fuel tank.
•Remove the fuel tank [A].
•Drain the fuel tank.
○Place a suitable container under the fuel tank.
○Turn the fuel tap to the PRI position to drain the fuel into the container.

The problem is that after step 2 "pull the hoses off the tap", petrol pours out! Thinking about it, there is nothing to stop this happening is there? Fuel is fed by gravity to the tap. There is presumably no diaphragm in the tank connector. So how can the manual be correct? And does this mean I have to syphon the fuel out of the tank every time I want to remove it? I'm sure there must be a simple solution here, but I'm blowed if I can think of it! Help! What am I doing wrong? Or is there a problem here that needs fixing?

Hope someone can put me straight!
Thanks.

[Robby]

If it has a diaphragm tap, there will be two hoses going to to - a larger one for fuel, and a smaller one for vacuum. If it has a gravity tap it wil only have a fuel hose.

If you have a diaphragm tap and fuel is leaking out when you turn it to ON or RES, the diaphragm is broken and you need a rebuild kit. You won't be able to turn the fuel off at the tap, so you either need to drain the tank, or disconnect the fuel line at the carbs or filter (if fitted) and plug or kink it to stop fuel leaking out.

What is the suspect problem with the carbs? If the bike has been in regular use, the carbs will be fine - they don't tend to break very often, and fuel keeps them clean. If it has been standing for a while, ride it for 1000 miles before pulling the carbs apart - fuel will do a good job of cleaning them.

Also, 90% of carb problems turn out to be electrical, and 90% of electrical problems turn out to be a knackered battery.

[sab478]

Thanks Robby. It is a diaphragm tap. However, the manual says to pull the hoses off the tap - the hoses which come from the tank to the tap. So what is supposed to stop fuel pouring out when I do this? The manual seems to indicate this is possible, then remove the tank and drain it (see the steps quoted from the manual in my original post).

I either have a sticking float or leaking float valve as the air box filled with fuel last time I rode it. Hence the need to dismantle carbs.

[Robby]

You can expect to spill a small amount of fuel - the fuel in the pipe, and probably some of the fuel in carbs. That will be only be half a cupful or so.

If more is pouring out of the tap when you pull the hose off, the diaphragm isn't working. Failed diaphragm could also explain your needle valves failing - I've come across a few instances of fairly weak needle valves on bikes with vacuum taps, they should only have to hold back the pressure of the fuel in the line, not all of the fuel in the tank.