R1 Carb Tuning

[sgtcalle]

Hi All.

I have a 2000 reg R1, which I have had for 9 months now.

When I bought it the seller told me it had a 2 stage carb ( or had been tuned to be this way), which basically means I have to give it a boot full of revs off the line or it bogs down. Apparently it makes it quicker off the line.

As I said I've been riding it for 9 months like this and it doesn't bother me too much, but I'm getting a bit sick of drag racing everywhere, or bogging down and nearly stalling pulling away.

I cant find much info about it online... Can I solve it by tuning the carbs?
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CBR600F '02
Manchester

[.....]

Sounds like someone has tried to make it faster without knowing what they are doing and have fobbed you off. Stick it back to standard.

[wristjob]

ive not heard of a 2 stage carb.
used to have progresive carbs on cars where it would open 1 butterfly and then open the next one as you applied more throttle,as you have 1 carb per cylinder it wont be that.
but if you have a carbed r1 that bogs down anywhere in the revs its broken.
take the tank off and have a look at whats happening then balance the carbs as a place to start.

[sgtcalle]

Well I struggle to see why anyone would do it intentionally, its a right pain in the arse!

How would I put it back to standard? Would it need a dyno run?
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CBR600F '02
Manchester

[.....]

[stevo as b4]

They probably meant a stage two jet kit I would say. I'd take it to a dyno and see what it's doing fuelling wise from closed to wot throttle through the Rev range under load.

If the carbs have not been drilled or modified beyond being returned to std,then it should just be a couple of hours dyno time or so to set them up for a nice smooth curve, and carbed R1's were known for a creamy delivery from 1000-11500rpm were they not?

[Fizzer Thou]

Luckily the carbs on the early R1s are easy to access and even the float bowls and carb tops can be removed with the carbs still in place,once the airbox has been taken off.
According to the manual,the airscrews for the 4XV should be 2.5 turns out from lightly seated,the later 5JJ just over 3 turns out.The main jets should be 130s and the pilot jets 17.5 and 15 respectively.
The float height is not that easily checked if doing it the factory suggested way,but if you go onto the R1 forum at https://www.yamahar.co.uk/ they have probably found an easier way.
I have not had to adjust the float heights on my 5JJ as the air filter is an OEM item.But this,the jet needle position and the airscrews are the only adjustable parts of the carbs,apart from the butterfly valves.On my R1 the jet needle circlip position was in the middle,3 of 5.
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Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[sgtcalle]

Might be beyond my mechanical capabilities I think. Don't suppose you have a PDF of the Haynes manual fizzer?
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CBR600F '02
Manchester

[Fizzer Thou]

Afraid not.

But there are cheap good condition early R1 Haynes manuals on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/1844251918/ref=tmm_hrd_used_olp_sr?ie=UTF8&condition=used&qid=1459011667&sr=1-2
____________________
Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[skatefreak]

Has something similar with an NSR I bought eons ago.

Someone had pinned the power valve open because "Power innit" but it just meant from 1k-7k the thing has literally no power but from 7k + it was pretty good.

Got sick of wheelieinginging onto roundabouts and eventually discovered what a hack job it was (even cut the cable 1 inch from the plug? WTF?!).

Anywho, any bike that's not standard gets looked at very very carefully/ nope right outta there....

Not worth the risk I find