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| Commuter_Tim |
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Commuter_Tim
World Chat Champion
Joined: 08 May 2013
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 Posted: 15:14 - 04 Apr 2016  Post subject: Intermittent Failure to start - clicks once |
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Started a few days ago on the CB500, press ignition, hear it go click once but pretty sure the pistons didn't move at all, Managed through sheer luck to get her started, so thought nothing more of it. (  )
Then yesterday I got stuck at work, and thought I'd managed to bump start it.
So rode home 7 miles with no issues, killed ignition, immediately tried it again... *click*
Assumed Battery was dead, was measuring at 12.6v tho which doesn't seem awful for someone who does a lot of short trips? (charged it anyway)
I would assume its not the kill switch as it doesn't even click when that is on.
Can a faulty Sidestand switch bugger things up even in neutral?
Cheers
____________________
The above post is most likely nonsensical.
I ride a Bandit 600... badly. |
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| MCN |
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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Posted: 15:29 - 04 Apr 2016  Post subject: |
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Connection/s is/are dirty/loose.
Keep in mind that 12v does not a good battery make. 
You need to know the condition of the battery by a load test.
You should be able to see this by attaching you meter to teh +&- terminals and then hold the start button in to attempt to crank the engine. Hold the button and look at the meter.
It should hold 12v and drop slowly towards 10 or a little below.
If it dives for the wee numbers then the battery is goosed. Shorted inside. 
Start by removing the terminals from the battery posts.
Clean all the shite off them. (and any grease, Vaseline sex-lube)
Refit (and then slabber in grease, Vaseline, sex-lube of choice).
Try to start.
If no joy then proceed with the next move.
Clean the terminals of the main relay. (To find it, follow the big red wire from the batter terminal.)
If the fault persists then do the starter terminals for shits and laphs too.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN. |
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| Commuter_Tim |
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Commuter_Tim
World Chat Champion
Joined: 08 May 2013
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| Posted: 19:11 - 04 Apr 2016 Post subject: |
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| MCN wrote: | Connection/s is/are dirty/loose.
Keep in mind that 12v does not a good battery make.
You need to know the condition of the battery by a load test.
You should be able to see this by attaching you meter to teh +&- terminals and then hold the start button in to attempt to crank the engine. Hold the button and look at the meter.
It should hold 12v and drop slowly towards 10 or a little below.
If it dives for the wee numbers then the battery is goosed. Shorted inside.
Start by removing the terminals from the battery posts.
Clean all the shite off them. (and any grease, Vaseline sex-lube)
Refit (and then slabber in grease, Vaseline, sex-lube of choice).
Try to start.
If no joy then proceed with the next move.
Clean the terminals of the main relay. (To find it, follow the big red wire from the batter terminal.)
If the fault persists then do the starter terminals for shits and laphs too. |
Cheers for the advice, I recharged and refitted the battery, testing the voltage under load...
I should mention this is a year old AGM motobatt but I only do 7 miles each way every day, mostly tyre to bumper.
Testing at 11.9/12V when using ignition with lights on (seeming rather dim if im honest), just clicking, actual no ignition.
Testing at 12.3/12.4v with lights off, fired up for half a second, but died due to cold engine/choke fiddlyness, then more one click presses.
Fubar Battery or should I be looking at starter motor and reg/rectifier? 
Cheers
____________________
The above post is most likely nonsensical.
I ride a Bandit 600... badly.
Last edited by Commuter_Tim on 19:18 - 04 Apr 2016; edited 1 time in total |
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| MCN |
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MCN
Super Spammer
Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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| Posted: 19:17 - 04 Apr 2016 Post subject: |
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| Commuter_Tim wrote: | | MCN wrote: | Connection/s is/are dirty/loose.
Keep in mind that 12v does not a good battery make.
You need to know the condition of the battery by a load test.
You should be able to see this by attaching you meter to teh +&- terminals and then hold the start button in to attempt to crank the engine. Hold the button and look at the meter.
It should hold 12v and drop slowly towards 10 or a little below.
If it dives for the wee numbers then the battery is goosed. Shorted inside.
Start by removing the terminals from the battery posts.
Clean all the shite off them. (and any grease, Vaseline sex-lube)
Refit (and then slabber in grease, Vaseline, sex-lube of choice).
Try to start.
If no joy then proceed with the next move.
Clean the terminals of the main relay. (To find it, follow the big red wire from the batter terminal.)
If the fault persists then do the starter terminals for shits and laphs too. |
Cheers for the advice, I recharged and refitted the battery, testing the voltage under load...
I should mention this is a year old AGM motobatt but I only do 7 miles each way every day.
Testing at 11.9/12V when using ignition with lights on (seeming rather dim if im honest), just clicking, actual no ignition.
Testing at 12.3/12.4v with lights off, fired up for half a second, but died due to cold engine/choke fiddlyness, then more one click presses.
Fubar Battery or should I be looking at starter motor and reg/rectifier?
Cheers |
If you are only getting a couple of 'goes' out the battery before it fails to turn the engine over then a battery may be a first option.
But you haven't ruled out a bad starter motor.
The starter motor or starter relay could be faulty. You can check them too but you need a hefty meter to connect in-line or a clamp on meter to read the amps that the motor is drawing.
If you had another 'good' battery to test with then it would help eliminate some possibles.
Jump it from a car.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN. |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 9 years, 299 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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