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Yamaha TDM 850-fix it or dump it

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Evergreen
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 01 Apr 2016    Post subject: Yamaha TDM 850-fix it or dump it Reply with quote

Hi there,

so I have a 1992 Yamaha TDM 850, it's been fine for about 8 months since I bought it and now it feels like everything just started falling apart:( Only this month, I've had the coolant drained/replaced, new front sprocket nut/washer, new chain & sprockets, about to change front fork seals, and now there's something wrong with the wiring-have to replace the starter switch+figure out what's up (starter switch won't do anything until I move the handlebars a bit or wiggle the wires slightly).Also, the mpg has really gone down-used to be able to do 180km per tank, now it barely manages 120.

All of this has been painful financially; plus I don't feel confident riding it anymore cause I'm paranoid something else is going to go wrong Mad

As I won't be able to afford a new bike for another year or two, and going bike-less is out of the question, I'm thinking of:

A) just fixing the most obvious stuff and hoping the bike will be ok...at least for a while

B) prepare to spend some serious $$$ but fix/replace everything that isn't in great shape (could probably do with a new battery, new emulsion tubes, should probably check steering & wheel bearings, have carbs checked /cleaned, upgrade brakes etc) so I know 100% everything works perfectly and can ride it again with no worry/paranoia. And in addition, do some custom work on it; I know, weird to do all this on an old TDM, but I think this could be fun and the end result would be an awesomely ugly bike instead of a current Deranged Mosquito look:)

I'm really tempted to go with the latter, but I'm no mechanic which would mean I have to find a workshop/mechanic where they'd be honestly willing to do all that. Which right now seems like mission impossible, because so far I'm usually met with 'yeaaa should be ok' attitude-I ask for a thorough check, am told it's done and everything looks fine, next day my chain snaps:) That sort of thing. Or I get laughed at cause the bike is sooooo oooooold. Or, 'just get a new bike'. I don't want to give up though, maybe it was just a lot of bad luck.

So...any ideas?Smile
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Howling TerrorOutOfOffice
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PostPosted: 22:14 - 01 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Everything you listed is a consumable apart from the dodgy switch/wiring.
Worth checking the air filter is clean as they will up the fuel consumption if dirty.

Once it's sorted sell it if your confidence is still low.
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sjc
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 01 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd be tempted to buy a workshop manual for your bike and start working your way through some of the simpler jobs. Read up about the job you are going to tackle, ask some questions if you are unclear.
After doing a few of the simpler bits you may well feel less daunted by the other bits that need doing.
You will also get to know your bike better so hopefully will regain some confidence in it.
A lot of stuff on bikes really is pretty straight forward and as long as you are logical and methodical about taking things apart they normally go back together easily.
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Snod Blatter
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PostPosted: 12:39 - 02 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you have to get a mechanic to replace the coolant? Emulsion tubes and fork seals aren't massively difficult jobs but are a bit of a faff, so the labour for them won't be very cheap. Likewise the starter button/wiring, easy to check or replace by yourself but to get a mechanic to check it out, with a probable minimum charge of an hour plus bits, ooh err. But if you had to get someone to replace the coolant it might be best to sell up and move on..

Could be even worse if the emulsion tube job goes wrong. If the old seals in the carbs won't seal again when it's put back together, or the rubber tubes either side of the carbs crack/break up, it could start to up the cost.
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Evergreen
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PostPosted: 12:52 - 02 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the input.

As I said, I'm no mechanic, I can do the very basic stuff like chain adjustment/oil change etc with the help of youtube, but I wouldn't venture any further without supervision, especially as the TDM is a big old bike. I'd love to learn, but college=time and money I can't afford right now; tried looking for private mechanic training, but that's pretty expensive. So for now, I'm going to need help.

Fixing the most obvious stuff and selling on the one hand is tempting as it would probably be easiest, but on the other, it feels a bit heartless to sell the pony on just cause it's banged up a little.
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Snod Blatter
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PostPosted: 13:26 - 02 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's no need for training, it isn't magic. It's just a load of bits that have been made into shapes that mean they fit together, often with other little bits that also fit nicely that keep things in place. What is needed is tools, more tools than you could ever imagine, a manual, and patience. And maybe youtube. And then some more tools, weird ones like dentistry picks and very long yet thin screwdrivers.

Emulsion tubes are around £35, proper NOK fork seals something similar, and maybe £15 for the starter switchgear though I bet all you have to do is clean it/the connector block or maybe a teeny bit of soldering. But for carb strip/rebuild and fork strip/rebuild and wiring being checked out you've got to be looking at, what, £200 at an independent? I bet you could still sell the TDM for around £700 if the mileage is under 35K or so, which after not paying out to fix the TDM gives you £900 to buy something more reliable like a CB500/XJ600/whatever which will probably leave you a decent chunk of change if you get a nice deal.

Alternatively, find an amateur mechanic who lives far enough away that he won't bother you when it's done, flash cleavage and simper like sex is on the cards until he fixes it all, then disappear. Woman's prerogative innit.
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Evergreen
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PostPosted: 15:20 - 02 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome post Snod Blatter Mr. Green

It IS magic to me though, especially as I've no idea what's a connector block or what it looks like. I'm stocking up on tools though and I will give it a go...as soon as I can afford another bike, because if I muck something up I can't ride. Plus, I probably need a garage for all the trial and error chaos.

And I won't be getting anything like the CB500, I want something more like the Kawasaki KLE/old Africa Twin/Tenere, which means at least £4000, which means next year.

Not into flashing anything, so just going to keep trying to find a decent mechanic *sigh* any recommendations for Coventry?..
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Snod Blatter
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 02 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's really not magic! Connector blocks have a bunch of wires going into them, one fits into another matched end - just pry the clip open with your fingers or a small screwdriver and the two halves pull away from each other. If you actually have a look you'll see them, it couldn't be easier. Have you ever met a clever mechanic?

There is a guy at 2 Wheel Service in Huncote who seems to have a brilliant reputation, not a million miles from you but not exactly "near". I have been there for an MOT and was very impressed, he looked at the important stuff and didn't make a big deal of the rest. He was also very respectful of the machine, which a lot of know-it-all testers are not. For Coventry itself I don't really know.

Aa an aside, please do keep checking the oil level on the TDM. You'll wonder why when it never seems to move, but then suddenly the sight glass will be empty. Check it every 200 miles if you can, especially if it's all motorway. I nearly knackered the TRX early on because I didn't check it enough, boy it was close.
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talkToTheHat
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PostPosted: 01:13 - 03 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I nursed a 1992 yamaha for 3 years. There was a lot of minor electrical issues and a handful of old bike mechanical issues. Bike mechanics usually hate electrical issues. If you can find the bit of wire you need to wiggle then that makes it easier. Possibly cheaper to get a replacement left hand switch unit (from breakers or new old stock) than to pay a mechanic. Likely though the contacts in the connector block are a corroded mess, so once you find it, giving it a bit of a clean might help. I ended up having to replace most of the metal parts in the connector blocks at the front end of mine.

Hit youtube for instructional videos?
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A100man
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PostPosted: 06:24 - 03 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you thought about joining a local bike club? Bound to get lots of enthusiastic offers of help there - you can always filter out the less altruistic members..
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Triumph1300
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PostPosted: 08:13 - 03 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try Andy Clarke at Ramp & Wrench, or Behind Bars at Kenilworth, both have reasonable reputations.

Where in Coventry are you?
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gerg
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PostPosted: 11:31 - 04 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

How are we all so sure OP is a woman? Shocked
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arry
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PostPosted: 19:42 - 04 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

gerg wrote:
How are we all so sure OP is a woman? Shocked


What odds does it make either way?
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Evergreen
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PostPosted: 08:44 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the replies and advice guys!
Going to start small and build up from there. Cleaned the bike thoroughly the other day and found another 100000000 things that need replacing/fixing, most of them cosmetic though (e.g.rusty nuts etc).

Ordered a bunch of tools, bolts and nuts - going have a go at it on Sunday. This is fun!!Smile
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 08:54 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Evergreen wrote:
...most of them cosmetic though (e.g.rusty nuts etc).



Being ginger, I can't seem to cure my problem of "rusty nuts".
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