Any 'How To's' for brake lines on a gsxr k7?

[dombaird]

As the title really

any one done any? going to give it a try myself, doesnt look overly difficult but i would rather some guidelines if possible

I know, there is going to be plenty....check google! check youtube etc, but i would rather ask BCF members from a more personal perspective! any help is appreciated


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DGB

[johnsmith222]

What do you want to do with brake lines?

Replacing them:

1. unbolt old lines

2. Bolt on New lines with new crush washers.

3. Bleed brakes.

On a K7, id be tempted just to bleed the brakes first (it sounds like this isn't something youve done before?) and call it a day.

[dombaird]

cheers for the reply

bought some new HEL braided lines while at the TT and looking to swap out the rubber ones for these ones

sounds simple enough!
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DGB

[johnsmith222]

[johnsmith222]

(sorry, I can't edit posts at work as the virus software blocks it).

The front is the same as the rear. Just unbolt the lines that are already there, and add the new lines, using 2 new crush washers for each banjo bolt.

Bleed at the caliper furthest away from the mastercylinder (furthest from right handlebar).

Then bleed the other side.

I tend to go back and repeat the bleeding of both sides just to make sure I've got most of the air out.

[dombaird]

great help!

yeah i have the lines, will do the rear tonight as it seems to be the easier of the two

thanks! been a great help!
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DGB

[tom_e]

Rear is definitely a nice quick simple introduction to doing it, fronts are just as simple but a bit more of a pain in the arse purely because there's more places for air to hide in the system.

I don't know if the GSXR has one as standard but if not try and get hold of a double banjo bolt with a built in bleed nipple HEL sell them on their site they seriously reduce the stress of trying to get all the air out of the front lines as it likes to hide up by the MC.

[dombaird]

[johnsmith222]

[Fizzer Thou]

All GSXR-K7s come with a radial front master cylinder and there is a bleed port built in already,so there would be no point in buying a double banjo bolt incorperating a blleed nipple.

I recently replaced the old rubber brake lines during the FJ1200 rebuild and using two lines from the master cylinder,it looks like this

https://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w384/Rhencullen5/FJ1200/20160612_163836_zpstgwk7f5v.jpg

and at the caliper it looks like this

https://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w384/Rhencullen5/FJ1200/20160612_164135_zpscciufiq6.jpg
https://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w384/Rhencullen5/FJ1200/20160617_150523_zpsht63levg.jpg

If you install the lines and leave the bolts slightly loose,then you can align the lines the way you want them.With HEL lines,you should have a small leaflet that tells you how the hold the line and to twist the banjo itself,so as the lines do not have a twisted look.Once you are happy with the way the lines go,tighten the bolts to the recommended torque.

(Some lines are supplied as a direct replacement and follow the same route as originally built on the assembly line in Japan.On some bikes,one line goes from the master cylinder to one front brake caliper and then another line from that caliper to the other.This can create a problem with bleeding the brakes as air can get trapped in that loop.In this situation it is better to have two lines direct from the master cylinder to each caliper and it helps big time with the bleeding procedure)
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Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[MattEMulsion]

If you can't get much pressure on the lever after bleeding the brakes, tie the lever back to the handlebars and leave overnight. This will allow trapped air to rise up and exit into the fluid reservoir, giving you a much firmer lever.
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Yamaha YZF-R6

[dombaird]

thanks for the front brake assistance and the tie up of the lever over night

great tips! certainly ones that google wouldnt have shown me
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DGB

[Ste]

[dombaird]