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Two stroke issues! HELP!

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Bishopbiking
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PostPosted: 18:23 - 06 May 2016    Post subject: Two stroke issues! HELP! Reply with quote

Hi everybody. New to the forums and I'm in desperate need of help.
I've recently acquired an NSR125rr foxeye. Ran well when I got it however I've chosen to run premix for safety.

Since I've owned it. A little over two months I've noticed its complete inability to hold coolant for more than a few days.


I have not modified the bike at all however got home from a small ride yesterday to a change of tone from the engine, the bike won't idle and just cut out when I let the throttle off and wouldn't start again.

Today I've cleaned the carb and new fuel put on and still nothing. The bike will only start by bumping and rides fine but engine sounds completely different to how it normally does. And once again still won't idle.

There's a ticking type noise coming from the engine.

Any ideas? All help appreciated. I paid little enough to justify scrapping just need an idea.
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andy_uk
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PostPosted: 18:43 - 06 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm no expert (apart from having had a rather 'needy' 2-stroke...) but here's my idea:

Did you re-jet or adjust the needle height after switching to premix?
If not then it would be running lean - which means hotter...that could maybe explain the coolant issue if it's been running too hot.

The change of engine noise could be a few things but given the fact it could be running hotter it may have briefly heat seized, possibly scoring the barrel/piston. This would explain the poor starting & lack of idle.
A compression test would be the sure way to tell though.
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kurmit123
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PostPosted: 19:09 - 06 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

as andy says seized up i think
also could be head gaskets gone, that would course your water to spit out
what does the plug look like?
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Ste
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PostPosted: 19:17 - 06 May 2016    Post subject: Re: Two stroke issues! HELP! Reply with quote

Stop running premix whilst praying that not much damage has been done?
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Bishopbiking
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 06 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice

i was thinking headgasket but it all looks good.

it does get hot that's for sure so maybe i should return to oil injected instead of premix and hope that sorts it, i've also noticed that there's not as much gas pumping from the exhaust either?
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Bishopbiking
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PostPosted: 19:58 - 06 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

kurmit123 wrote:
as andy says seized up i think
also could be head gaskets gone, that would course your water to spit out
what does the plug look like?
i did not rejet, i was told when i got it that it was run on premix already so i continued with that
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Bishopbiking
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PostPosted: 20:14 - 06 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update. got her started on the button but had to situate the throttle a slight bit back and it was going up between 0 and 1k revs if i pull the throttle any more it would just not have any of it. after i held it at a certain point it started and reved just fine but wouldn't idle still..
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 20:30 - 06 May 2016    Post subject: Re: Two stroke issues! HELP! Reply with quote

Bishopbiking wrote:
Ran well when I got it however I've chosen to run premix for safety.


Here's your error. Injector pumps are perfectly reliable, and have been since the 1960s. Running premix will lean off the air fuel mixture, because some of the fuel isn't really fuel but it's oil. This will f*ck up your bike in short order.

Switch back to autolube and then see what happens, however I suspect something is seriously wrong now.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 20:43 - 06 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't suppose the previous owner told you why he was running it on premix?
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Bishopbiking
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PostPosted: 20:48 - 06 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
Don't suppose the previous owner told you why he was running it on premix?
the guy was a douche which i learnt shortly after buying. He told me it all worked then warned me he wasn't sure of the pump so best to use premix AFTER i had paid for it
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Bishopbiking
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PostPosted: 21:39 - 06 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

is 40-1 ratio too much, i will be switching to oil pump soon.
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kurmit123
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PostPosted: 05:10 - 07 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

40.1 is way to much oil, this would fowl your plug in no time.
gasket may look good, but that only works if you know what a bad one looks like. i dont so would just change it out if it was me.
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PostPosted: 07:01 - 07 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

kurmit123 wrote:
40.1 is "way to much oil"

Rolling Eyes I use 25:1 basic mineral with no fouled plug - even when riding in higher gears @low rpm for more traction on enduro type green lanes. I know this coz i removed the NGK B8ES yesterday to screw in the piston stop for removing the flywheel when the gel battery got fucked up from being bounced around off road since the manufacturer didn't design it with a battery top cover Evil or Very Mad Thumbs Down

Oil pumps use less oil because they inject it more efficiently (almost like a spray mist diesel injector) most 2t injector pumps churn out 32:1, anything less than that when premixing will starve the engine of sufficient lubrication £££ might as well pour a 40:1 ratio of table salt into the tank.

https://s19.postimg.org/mzq25myvn/DSC_0001.jpg

Op: empty off the fuel tank & buy the Polini measuring bottle which comes with better measuring printed readouts & put a small piece of tape on the 5L - 4% mark. Add that to a 5 liter Jerry can & pour it in. When filling the tank from the pump at fuel stations (make sure you pour the fuel in 1st & add the oil after so it doesn't sink straight to the bottom of the tank making the engine run lean)

https://s19.postimg.org/i2chkiwwj/DSC_0011.jpg

Any cheap basic mineral oil which meets the Japanese JASO FB lubrication standard is good Thumbs Up so there's no reason for anyone to go paying extra for overpriced fake boldly claimed synthetics.
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 07:37 - 07 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unsympathetic wrote:
kurmit123 wrote:
40.1 is "way to much oil"

Rolling Eyes I use 25:1 basic mineral with no fouled plug - even when riding in higher gears @low rpm for more traction on enduro type green lanes. I know this coz i removed the NGK B8ES yesterday to screw in the piston stop for removing the flywheel when the gel battery got fucked up from being bounced around off road since the manufacturer didn't design it with a battery top cover Evil or Very Mad Thumbs Down

Oil pumps use less oil because they inject it more efficiently (almost like a spray mist diesel injector) most 2t injector pumps churn out 32:1, anything less than that when premixing will starve the engine of sufficient lubrication £££ might as well pour a 40:1 ratio of table salt into the tank.

https://s19.postimg.org/mzq25myvn/DSC_0001.jpg

Op: empty off the fuel tank & buy the Polini measuring bottle which comes with better measuring printed readouts & put a small piece of tape on the 5L - 4% mark. Add that to a 5 liter Jerry can & pour it in. When filling the tank from the pump at fuel stations (make sure you pour the fuel in 1st & add the oil after so it doesn't sink straight to the bottom of the tank making the engine run lean)

https://s19.postimg.org/i2chkiwwj/DSC_0011.jpg

Any cheap basic mineral oil which meets the Japanese JASO FB lubrication standard is good Thumbs Up so there's no reason for anyone to go paying extra for overpriced fake boldly claimed synthetics.


I thought reregistering with a new account after a ban was verboten?

But yeah, ignore this guy^^

Fully synth only especially on anything with plated bores or that spends a large amount of time on or near the redline.
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iooi
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PostPosted: 07:52 - 07 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bishopbiking wrote:

i was thinking headgasket but it all looks good.


Only really one way to tell if a head gasket is OK and that is to take the head off... Which really means putting a new one on.
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PostPosted: 07:58 - 07 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

GT200Fan79 wrote:
Fully synth only

No such thing as "Fully Synthetic oil" unless your a marketing sales rep.

GT200Fan79 wrote:
especially on anything with plated bores or that spends a large amount of time on or near the redline.

LOL!
my tuned Nikasil plated Aluminium bore runs on this basic mineral @ over 10,500 rpm on A roads up to the coast & back' in fact i spent 16 hrs in the saddle earlier this year Mr. Green

GT200Fan79 wrote:
But yeah, ignore this guy^^

Says some kid that doesn't know what he's doing Rolling Eyes back when synthetic labeled oils weren't invented bikes ran fine on Dino oil derived from under the ground & i claim my 5 ponds Karma Chequered Flag
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Bishopbiking
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PostPosted: 08:06 - 07 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

So any suggestions on a fix or ideas of the fault. Shall I try running it on fuel with a lower ratio?
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 08:10 - 07 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Who do you think your talking to, son?

I don't think too many folk on here would argue that my 2t knowledge and experience is rather broad, i'm not "some kid".

Fully synth (and yes i'm aware it still has some mineral content) is better at everything, i assume you don't remember the days of decokes and clogged silencers and fouled plugs from running mineral oil? Also fully synth produces next to no exhaust smoke on a warm engine. For the small increase in cost per litre (and how many people do big miles on a 2t these days?) It's a no brainer.
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PostPosted: 08:17 - 07 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.klemmvintage.com/oils.htm
Quote:
an engine being run at 4000 rpm can maintain a very healthy and happy level of oil-presence with a 40:1 premix. However that exact same engine being run at 8000rpm needs to have a 20:1 premix to maintain the exact same level of oil-presence inside.
Bishopbiking wrote:
Shall I try running it on fuel with a lower ratio?

https://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww173/prestonjjrtr/Smileys/Smiley31-1.gif
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PostPosted: 08:52 - 07 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

GT200Fan79 wrote:
Who do you think your talking to, son?

I don't think too many folk on here would argue that my 2t knowledge and experience is rather broad, i'm not "some kid".

https://cdn.meme.am/instances/500x/29960847.jpg

GT200Fan79 wrote:
synth (and yes i'm aware it still has some mineral content)
Thumbs Up

GT200Fan79 wrote:
is better at everything

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yAlOQeTxbiA/VEooV2eKViI/AAAAAAAAAsY/XfQFesb1-Io/w426-h306/Liotta2.jpg

must be far better at lubricating than castor bean oil then Laughing

GT200Fan79 wrote:
i assume you don't remember the days of decokes and clogged silencers and fouled plugs from running mineral oil?

Nope' that was Castor oil Karma

GT200Fan79 wrote:
Also "fully synth" produces next to no exhaust smoke on a warm engine.

Then i guess you haven't run a 2 smoker on Motul 710 or Putoline MX5 semi, or a few leftover bottles of Rock Oil Synthesis 2...

https://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss4/anonymouse15/DSC_0005_zpsainq2kyc.jpg
Arrow

GT200Fan79 wrote:
For the small increase in cost per litre (and how many people do big miles on a 2t these days?) It's a no brainer.

https://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss4/anonymouse15/DSC_0011_zps4mgolzlv.jpg

3x cylinder's/pistons suffered 4 corner seizures from lack of lubrication with Silkolene Comp 4 Plus/Rock Oil Synthesis 2 & Motul 710. Non of this has happened on basic cheap as chips dino oil with both Cast iron & Nikasil kits. Vespa's/Lambretta's tour the whole continent running on dino oil Mr. Green

https://stream1.gifsoup.com/view5/3217352/cigar-o.gif

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Bishopbiking
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PostPosted: 10:43 - 07 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update. New fuel no difference. It backfired when trying to start it though.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 11:06 - 07 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bishopbiking wrote:
Update. New fuel no difference. It backfired when trying to start it though.
I think the damage is already done.

I think you need to convert it back to autolube, and you need to take the top end off. I reckon you've probably holed the piston running it too lean...

Never ever buy a 2t that has been converted to premix.
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Bishopbiking
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PostPosted: 12:04 - 07 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
Bishopbiking wrote:
Update. New fuel no difference. It backfired when trying to start it though.
I think the damage is already done.

I think you need to convert it back to autolube, and you need to take the top end off. I reckon you've probably holed the piston running it too lean...

Never ever buy a 2t that has been converted to premix.

Will be taking the lid of in a moment and inspecting the damage. Hoping it's not scored the barrel.
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Bishopbiking
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PostPosted: 13:26 - 07 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Piston has a hole. New piston time.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 14:08 - 08 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Any damage to the barrel?

As to oil pumps, I have never had one fail. But I am sure that if running pre mix I would have gotten the mixture wrong occasionally.

As to mixture ratio, Aprilia list the oil used on an RS125 as equivalent to 0.9%~2%. (ie, under 100:1 to 50:1). Oil pump doesn't squirt oil in, and the quantity pushed in is tiny.

However my concern for your bike now is that it has been run with the pump connected but with no oil for a while. Rotating pump with no oil in it to lube it is likely to wear. I don't think I would trust that particular pump now, and would suggest you source a replacement.

All the best

Katy
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