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Swapping over Chain and Sprockets tomorrow (CBR125)

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RockandGrohl
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PostPosted: 09:35 - 03 Jun 2016    Post subject: Swapping over Chain and Sprockets tomorrow (CBR125) Reply with quote

Hi all, hoping to get a little advice.

I'm swapping over the Chain and Sprockets on my bike as the chain popped off a couple weeks ago and it's now at the limit of how far the chain can be tightened.

Mechanic's words to me were "Chain and sprockets will be the next big money on that big" when I took it in for MOT. Having a laugh, I got a DID standard chain and standard teeth sprockets for £40. Not a chance pal.

I'm taking it to my mates who has a wealth of tools and other mechanics equipment at his disposal. But neither of us have done this before and there isn't a huge amount of detail online for specifically this bike.

I used to have a Hayne's manual somewhere which laid it out step-by-step but I've misplaced it. Any guides online are for bikes radically different than the CBR 125 (though I suspect the essence of the guides is the same)

Any help offered would be nice. One question I have is does the front sprocket need a new locking washer? I did see mention of this for another bike's C+S replacement guide.

Thank you!
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 10:13 - 03 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remember to loosen the nuts first.
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 10:16 - 03 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

My advice is to buy these and get to work.

https://www.justgloves.co.uk/Work-Gloves/Non-Medical-Disposable-Gloves
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tom_e
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PostPosted: 10:38 - 03 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's so self explanatory once you look at it it's daft.

If you really need something to follow just find a general guide it'll be almost exactly the same as any other chain driven bike.
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RockandGrohl
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PostPosted: 10:46 - 03 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
Remember to loosen the nuts first.


I was just going to tear the sprockets off the wheel and crank respectively with my big man hands but I think this is the more sensible option thanks Smile
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RockandGrohl
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 03 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pjay wrote:


Ah we have these, and a special detergent with little bits in it that scrub engine oil and grease off your hands.

Oh also, the only chain lube I have is a spray on one which I generally do every time I refuel the bike.

Is this sufficient to lube a brand new chain? Thanks.
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RockandGrohl
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PostPosted: 10:52 - 03 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

tom_e wrote:
It's so self explanatory once you look at it it's daft.

If you really need something to follow just find a general guide it'll be almost exactly the same as any other chain driven bike.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6o_WGCO-X0

I've got this ready to play for my lunch break, I used a CBF video to adjust my chain slack the other week and both systems are identical.
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rubyhorse2
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PostPosted: 11:12 - 03 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

just done mine and all went pretty smoothly. i'm used to doing mtb chains so its the same principle.

i just angle ground my old chain off, no messing.

Fitting is easy with the chain riveter or maybe yours is the pull thingy way?

anyway, take your time, check everything twice
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RockandGrohl
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PostPosted: 11:55 - 03 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

rubyhorse2 wrote:
just done mine and all went pretty smoothly. i'm used to doing mtb chains so its the same principle.

i just angle ground my old chain off, no messing.

Fitting is easy with the chain riveter or maybe yours is the pull thingy way?

anyway, take your time, check everything twice


I have a split link chain, so just have a little clip. There's even instructions on the DID box as to which way the clip orients.

Going to angle grind this chain off too. Motes to do it the "proper" way.

I assume you pushed your wheel all the way forward to get maximum chain-tightness, did you have to discard any links?
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 13:16 - 03 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

RockandGrohl wrote:
jaffa90 wrote:
Remember to loosen the nuts first.


I was just going to tear the sprockets off the wheel and crank respectively with my big man hands but I think this is the more sensible option thanks Smile


You`ll know what I mean when you do it.
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RockandGrohl
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PostPosted: 14:45 - 03 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
RockandGrohl wrote:


I was just going to tear the sprockets off the wheel and crank respectively with my big man hands but I think this is the more sensible option thanks Smile


You`ll know what I mean when you do it.


I'm sure whatever happens (bar ruining the whole thing) I'll have fun.

This can't possibly be worse than removing the cruddy downpipe that had seized on both the cylinder head AND the Silencer Can.
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tom_e
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PostPosted: 15:28 - 03 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
RockandGrohl wrote:


I was just going to tear the sprockets off the wheel and crank respectively with my big man hands but I think this is the more sensible option thanks Smile


You`ll know what I mean when you do it.


I did not do this when I done my first, much fun was had trying to crack them as an afterthought Embarassed
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rubyhorse2
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PostPosted: 15:57 - 03 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

regarding sizing, i measured the old chain and cut to this.
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Commuter_Tim
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 03 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is fairly self explanatory as above, however just remember to loosen the front sprocket before you remove anything else.
Use the back brake and loosen the front sprocket nut, the chain will then stop it from free spinning.

Also I think what Jaffa may have meant is that its easier to crack the rear sprocket nuts before removing the wheel from the bike.
If you remove the wheel and try cracking them off against the play of the cush drives (rubber shit behind the sprocket) then it's possible but much more difficult.

Regarding sprocket, depends on the CBR setup but locking washers can be reused without potato if theyre not too mashed, (hur hur) however it's recommended to replace em if fitted.
My cb500 doesn't even come with a lock washer, just a reverse thread bolt so it naturally tightens not loosens.
BCF is being rather cryptic in this thread.
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P.
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PostPosted: 20:29 - 03 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are near maidstone... ill assist as I'm working on vehicles tomorrow Laughing
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dydey90
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 03 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you've managed to remove the remnants of a rusted up exhaust, this should be a doddle. I had to do it with mine and it took soooo soooo long, producing many tears and tantrums. By the time I got it out, I had about an inch and half of it left.
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Past: CBR125,ER6f NINJA 650, ZZR600 Current: VFR750
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