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Dealer Changed Brakes - Now Handles Like Trash

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guile
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PostPosted: 19:45 - 02 Jun 2016    Post subject: Dealer Changed Brakes - Now Handles Like Trash Reply with quote

Got caught out forgetting my MOT so had no choice/time to change the front brakes (two brake discs on front = two set of brake changes) when it failed on brake pad thickness (minimal)

Ever since it has handled like shit. Feels 'wobbly' even when pushing it with motor off but I can't feel any significant friction like the brakes are dragging unevenly.

Juts comparing it to before when I could chuck it around. Now it feels 'slippery' going into corners and nowhere near as fun.

They said they cleaned the pistons but if I can't feel any drag when pushing the bike by hand, is there likely to be uneven friction on the two sides causing instability? Or other reason for said symptoms?

Brakes are responsive when pulled. They also messed with the steering head bearing - would that impact?
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 02 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steering head bearings that are too tight make the bike roll from side to side as you travel forwards.
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 02 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

does front wheel spin freely when lifted off ground ?
Is the any movement in front wheel when its lifted off the ground?
try jiggling wheel to check for excess movement,
they may have got a spacer wrong or one of callipers could be binding (should all have been checked by Pro though)

If you can get a infra red temp reader this may help point out a binding calliper that only shows up once warm.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:20 - 02 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Checked your tyre pressures?

Front wheel back in the right way round?

Did they have the rear wheel out? Is it back in square and aligned?
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bamt
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PostPosted: 21:52 - 02 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd look at the steering bearings. Get the front wheel off the ground, then check that it turns freely and easily side to side, with no notchiness around the straight-ahead position. Then try grasping the forks and moving them backwards and forwards, checking for any play around the head - this will help to indicate if they are too loose (if you see/feel any movement then they are).
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 08:17 - 03 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd check that the calipers are bolted on securely, but my money's on the bearings, not the brakes.

What do you/they mean "messed with the steering head bearing"? Replaced? Or did some monkey just nip it up tighter (maybe too tight) and charge you £80 for the privilege?
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Last edited by Rogerborg on 21:09 - 03 Jun 2016; edited 1 time in total
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guile
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PostPosted: 18:06 - 03 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies - not sure how I managed not to post this in the 'Workshop'.

MOT failed because when they bounced the front suspension, the steering bearing was making a noise - they said they would try to fix it without replacement, charged me £30, and then gave me the MOT pass with an advisory about the steering bearing being 'notchy' and said it will probably fail next time on that.

I will try to get the front off the ground this weekend and check what has been suggested. Wheels were not taken off and tyre pressure is fine.

Thinking I will have a go at replacing the steering bearings anyway.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 18:40 - 04 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Overtightened to get rid of slack in the bearing. They've tried to do you a favour when in reality it would have been better to fail it and change the headstock bearings (or tell you to do it before a retest).

Question: Are OEM headstock bearings all taper roller now or do they still fit cup and ball crap on bikes?

Shows how long it is since I changed any, a Z650 Embarassed
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 11:50 - 06 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Given the faff I had last time I changed headstock bearings, I think it is one of the few jobs I'd pay a garage to do next time around. Easy enough when it all goes right, but a complete pig otherwise.

Also, my money would be on the bearings too, rather than the brakes.
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guile
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PostPosted: 17:48 - 07 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

c_dug wrote:
Given the faff I had last time I changed headstock bearings, I think it is one of the few jobs I'd pay a garage to do next time around. Easy enough when it all goes right, but a complete pig otherwise.


Hmmm that sounds intimidating. What gave you so much trouble exactly?

I remember when I had to do this on a bicycle and it was a complete ballache - had to freeze the bearings and even then it was extremely hard to get them in.

If I knock out the old bearings and get get the new ones in myself, there's no way I will be able to get to a garage, right?

Was quoted £100 labour to do it Sick
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 18:21 - 07 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last time the bearing just would not go into the hole. I've done them before without half as much faff, but on the Diversion they just would not seat.

I can't remember how I got them in in the end, but it took an entire day. I'd have happily paid £100 for a local shop to do it!
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 18:30 - 07 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steering head bearings are a cock to do. You really need a bearing press to fit the races i to the frame properly. I did them on my 1100 and swore never again.
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andyscooter
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PostPosted: 18:34 - 07 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shit


Trash is American shit
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 07 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually made myself a press of sorts the time I had all the issues, about a foot of M12 rod, a plate on either end, and some suitable nuts.

Still couldn't get the buggers in!
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