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Terrible brakes

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The Artist
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PostPosted: 20:19 - 05 Jun 2016    Post subject: Terrible brakes Reply with quote

Picked up my first bike in nearly 5 years today. Great fun on the ride home except overshooting a roundabout a bit. The front brake is terrible. Not really spongy, just terrible.

Am I right in thinking:

Spongy lever = air in the system
Kind of spongy but requires a lot of force to operate = Bad pads/disc?

Any quick things I can try to determine what is the issue?
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 05 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

First check the lever & pivot.
Could be the pivot pin is rusty, or the pin done up too tight.
Also not unknown for the pivot tangs on the master-cyl casting to get dinged and pinch the blade.
Some after-market lever-blades can also be very dire & may have 'cam' that presses on the end of the cylinder that is peculiar.

Next suspect would be the calliper; what state are the pistons in? Are they sticking? If a floating calliper, is the calliper seized on the float pins or sticking.

Drop the calliper & clean

Pull the pads, look for uneven wear - one pad may be down to the backing, opposite not, indicates sticking piston/float

Replace the pads as a matter of course while you're in there.

They could be bad pads, or contaminated or cooked... but basic 'service' aught to sort it.

Probably worth flushing through new fluid & bleeding whilst you are about it.
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 21:04 - 05 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Socket wrote:
How much meat is left on the pads?

Also what bike are we talking about?


Plenty and it is an 08 YBR 125.
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 21:04 - 05 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
First check the lever & pivot.
Could be the pivot pin is rusty, or the pin done up too tight.
Also not unknown for the pivot tangs on the master-cyl casting to get dinged and pinch the blade.
Some after-market lever-blades can also be very dire & may have 'cam' that presses on the end of the cylinder that is peculiar.

Next suspect would be the calliper; what state are the pistons in? Are they sticking? If a floating calliper, is the calliper seized on the float pins or sticking.

Drop the calliper & clean

Pull the pads, look for uneven wear - one pad may be down to the backing, opposite not, indicates sticking piston/float

Replace the pads as a matter of course while you're in there.

They could be bad pads, or contaminated or cooked... but basic 'service' aught to sort it.

Probably worth flushing through new fluid & bleeding whilst you are about it.


Sounds like a general service is the way to go. Karma Thumbs Up
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Andy_Pagin
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PostPosted: 21:11 - 05 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally I'd start with a new set of pads, since it's cheap and easy. If that doesn't help then service the caliper and change the brake fluid which again should be relatively easy on that bike.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 21:33 - 05 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Could be a few things. Is it a standard master cylinder (larger bore will make the brakes need more pressure and feel rather dead)? Has the caliper seized on the pins it slides on? Are the pads rubbish?

All the best

Katy
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talkToTheHat
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PostPosted: 04:03 - 07 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simplest things first: give the disk and pads a clean with come brake cleaner. Buy from a car spares place for about £3, spray liberallly, wipe with clean shop towel (kitchen paper just about works) could just have got a little greasy or a lazy valet could have got wax/soap/sillicone/teflon on your friction surfaces.

If bike is old, your brake lines could be on their way out. manufacturers advise replacing after 4 years. But clean disks, check/replace pads (avoid bargain basement pads), flush old system with new fluid and service calipers if required first. I think i'd describe old brake lines as more vague than anything else, particularly the rear on my bandit which either on or off somewhere across the long pedal travel.
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Howling TerrorOutOfOffice
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PostPosted: 22:44 - 07 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even simpler. Some good firm on-off-on-off braking. Really get those discs hot. So best do it on a quiet carriageway.
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 11:53 - 08 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took the calliper off, the pads looked OK but I cleaned them up with brake cleaner and same for the disc. They are single pot type with a slider. I took the slider out and lubed it all up with copper slip, same with the back of the pads. I pumped the piston out, gave it a wipe and pushed it back in. I had to use a g clamp to push it back in but I think this is fairly normal. It wasn't stuck, I just couldn't do it by hand.

It has made a slight improvement but still not as good as I think it should be. Maybe the pads are impregnated with oil or grease or something.

I don't think this issue is air/lines/fluid related as that would just make them spongy. If I apply as much force as I can on the lever then it should apply a good braking force, regardless of how much travel the lever has.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 12:01 - 08 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Copper slip is an anti-seize compound and could attack the rubber boots on the sliders. It's not intended to be a lubricant as such. I always use a rubber friendly lubircant like silicon or red rubber grease on these.

Were the sliders working freely when you checked them?

You may have some corrosion behind the seal if the piston isn't moving freely - thumb pressure is usually enough to get them moving.
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 12:17 - 08 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
Copper slip is an anti-seize compound and could attack the rubber boots on the sliders. It's not intended to be a lubricant as such. I always use a rubber friendly lubircant like silicon or red rubber grease on these.

Were the sliders working freely when you checked them?

You may have some corrosion behind the seal if the piston isn't moving freely - thumb pressure is usually enough to get them moving.


I am going to order some new pads and piston seals and do a full calliper strip down I think. When I do this I will clean everything in brake cleaner and re-assemble with some silicon grease. The slider was moving but had some dried grease around the slider pins.
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rubyhorse2
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PostPosted: 12:23 - 08 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

just bleed them and see if that sorts it. Surely if pads are ok and the piston is moving fine then its something simple as air in the line.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 12:26 - 08 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Artist wrote:


I am going to order some new pads and piston seals and do a full calliper strip down I think. When I do this I will clean everything in brake cleaner and re-assemble with some silicon grease. The slider was moving but had some dried grease around the slider pins.


You can usually buy rebuiild kits that include the slider boots and nipple cap as well. Thumbs Up

When you remove the old seal make sure that you very carefully clean out the bottom of the groove it sits in - that's where you get a build up of alloy corrosion that can prevent the piston from moving freely. Only use red rubber grease or brake fluid as a lubricant for the seal and piston. They usually provide a sachet of red rubber grease with rebuild kits.

There are two pins on the slider, one runs in a closed bush in the caliper and one runs in a rubber boot - it's usually the rubber booted one that causes issues with a build up of corrosion between the caliper body and the boot - when you rebuild, clean out the hole that the boot passes through. Thumbs Up
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 12:31 - 08 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

rubyhorse2 wrote:
just bleed them and see if that sorts it. Surely if pads are ok and the piston is moving fine then its something simple as air in the line.


Yeah but what is the logic behind this? Surely air in the lines or any issue with the fluid would not result in less braking force, only a soft lever which I don't really have.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 12:36 - 08 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe the disc is glazed? I had a KDX 125 with an awful front brake until I roughed-up the pads and disc with some emery paper and did a few hard stops.
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 13:45 - 08 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

weasley wrote:
Maybe the disc is glazed? I had a KDX 125 with an awful front brake until I roughed-up the pads and disc with some emery paper and did a few hard stops.


Anyway to test this out? Other than running my finger across it and even then I don't know how smooth is too smooth.

I have ordered a brake rebuild kit and some EBC pads so I should be able to have a go at rebuilding it over the weekend. Thumbs Up
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rubyhorse2
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PostPosted: 15:00 - 08 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Artist wrote:
rubyhorse2 wrote:
just bleed them and see if that sorts it. Surely if pads are ok and the piston is moving fine then its something simple as air in the line.


Yeah but what is the logic behind this? Surely air in the lines or any issue with the fluid would not result in less braking force, only a soft lever which I don't really have.


air in lines doesn't just make the lever spongy, it will reduce your braking performance. Its certainly what i would have checked without spending money on pads and rebuild kits.

have you done a simple push test and jammed the brake on, should be an instant stop without much effort?

Regarding above, i'm always unsure about this bedding brakes in, i've done it for years on mtb's and motorbikes but is it actually necessary?
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tom_e
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PostPosted: 15:07 - 08 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't forget at the end of the day this is a single piston caliper fitted to a 125 built to a budget, it's never going to stop the world.
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Tdibs
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PostPosted: 16:41 - 08 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was going to say, Dont expect miracles from a single pot disc and fairly small drum. Is the rear brake alright? Are you using brakes in conjunction?
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 16:54 - 08 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Front single pot disc. I know not to expect it to stop on a dime but there is definitely something not right with it.

Cheers for the halp. Thumbs Up
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The Artist
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 09 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://i.imgur.com/qM0sBbw.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Vjydx3G.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HUZeHkb.jpg

When I took the seals out, they were pretty shagged. There were very thin slices of rubber sitting behind the piston. It wasn't leaking before as far as I can tell but I have cleaned the caliper up as best I can and reassembled with new seals and new pads. Haven't had a chance to test but will do tomorrow morning.

New brake fluid as well to satisfy rubyhorse2 Laughing
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