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DIY Stubby exhaust - how much packing

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herulach
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PostPosted: 19:31 - 24 May 2016    Post subject: DIY Stubby exhaust - how much packing Reply with quote

So, today I did do stubbying an accident damaged end can I picked up for cheaps as the one I had on before the bike was laid up is both ugly as sin and scraped/dented to buggery.

I've got some of this stuff:
https://www.mandp.co.uk/index.php/default/motorcycle-spares/exhausts/exhaust-baffle-packing.html

To repack it with, but how much do you need to use? I'm assuming just wrap it round till I can't fit any more on then jam the stuff back together, but the internet seems to vary between 'none' and m0ar!

What does BCF think?

(I'm going for loud, but not kill kittens at 100 paces btw).
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 19:36 - 24 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm from the ram it in as tightly as possible school of thought. If you don't it'll burn off more quickly and heat up the sleeve. It'll melt it if it's a carbon sleeve, or change the colour if it's titanium.

MOAR!
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Hahadumball
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 24 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

as above, pack with m0ar!
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herulach
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 24 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Carbon? Titanium? They sound far too costly. Its a ratty old fazer with 40k on it. but moar it is.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 20:41 - 24 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you mean by stubbying? Yes, I know what it means in general, I've done it, but what do you mean in particular?

I stubbied a damaged can: end cap off, cut straight through everything about 2/5ths of the way down, rivet end cap back on, bit of silicone gloop to seal, job's a good 'un. Annoying brap-brap-brap achieved, and a noticeable drop in low down torque as you'd expect, no packing necessary.

If you're gutting it out and replacing the internals with a straight bit of pipe with holes in it, that's a different matter.

What do?
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herulach
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PostPosted: 20:47 - 24 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
What do you mean by stubbying? Yes, I know what it means in general, I've done it, but what do you mean in particular?

I stubbied a damaged can: end cap off, cut straight through everything about 2/5ths of the way down, rivet end cap back on, bit of silicone gloop to seal, job's a good 'un. Annoying brap-brap-brap achieved, and a noticeable drop in low down torque as you'd expect, no packing necessary.

If you're gutting it out and replacing the internals with a straight bit of pipe with holes in it, that's a different matter.

What do?

The first, but I didn't keep the packing.
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herulach
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 24 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

God.i wrote:
Stubby cans especially home made ones look and sound full pikey IMO.

Do the bike and your lug holes a favour buy a normal exhaust I recommend the Dominator for the FZS 600 sounds perfect. It is loud enough to get you noticed by car drivers but not so loud it gives you a headache.

I've not run it yet, so we'll see. All in this cost me about £10 to do, so we'll see. Looks wise its not a concern, the rest of the bike looks gash anyway (full rack on the back, scuffed fairings etc) although its mechanically sound.

If its deafening I'll leave it off and pick up a cheap slip on, Its not _that_ short, down to about a foot, and I've left the baffles in, so we'll see.
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Hahadumball
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PostPosted: 14:36 - 25 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

gash looking: Yes

https://i.imgur.com/fdj0Top.jpg

Soundings: epic
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrI7u7_BZ4Q
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herulach
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PostPosted: 18:17 - 25 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whats it like at idle?
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Hahadumball
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PostPosted: 19:02 - 25 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

i never did a real video at idle, long gone now ask sql on here if he has the exhaust on it still


only one i have is this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o02GgPzKiWs

also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSJZMVtTIDU

not the best video, but at idle its a little rumble not excessive
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Fin: no matter how much I look at It I can't understand what was going through my head, all I remember is going about 80 and redlining it to stop it seizing.
360 Deg... Five 1/4 turns. :- Teflon-Mike 18 Jan 2015
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herulach
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 25 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Run it on the drive (brakes need doing before MOT) and it sounds fine up to about 3k, over that its loud, but quite a nice noise. Will keep it for the time being I think.
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Hahadumball
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 25 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

have you ridden it yet?
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Fin: no matter how much I look at It I can't understand what was going through my head, all I remember is going about 80 and redlining it to stop it seizing.
360 Deg... Five 1/4 turns. :- Teflon-Mike 18 Jan 2015
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herulach
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 25 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul Vtr wrote:
have you ridden it yet?

herulach wrote:
brakes need doing before MOT


They're presently missing pads and seals waiting for wemoto to sort themselves.
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Hahadumball
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PostPosted: 07:11 - 26 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

i mean since buying it
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Fin: no matter how much I look at It I can't understand what was going through my head, all I remember is going about 80 and redlining it to stop it seizing.
360 Deg... Five 1/4 turns. :- Teflon-Mike 18 Jan 2015
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herulach
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PostPosted: 11:07 - 26 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul Vtr wrote:
i mean since buying it

Oh, yeah I've had the bike 5+ years, it's just been laid up 18 months without being washed first. Hence sticky pistons
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herulach
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PostPosted: 19:36 - 12 Jul 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to come back to this, it sounds pretty boss after a little while, it actually sounds half decent, jam it full as it will go appears to be the correct answer.
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Commuter_Tim
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 12 Jul 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stupid question:
Can every bike exhaust be packed to reduce sound?

I'm a bitch and don't like loud cans (Plus I do not subscribe to the loud cans save lives stuff)
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