Upgrade or new?

[weasley]

I have a 2007 Kona Caldera (hard tail) with the original components on it (see below). In the last 18 months or so I have got quite into MTB as a fitness activity. I live amongst a great network of byways and bridlepaths and am currently doing 2-3 rides a week of 12-25 mile distance each. Once a week I ride in a group and the trouble is, they all have 'better' bikes than me and I am getting itchy feet.

I like my bike. It's done me well and, if I'm honest, is still perfectly OK for what I do. I am not looking to go competing nor am I likely to set any Strava KOMs but I am getting quicker against myself, which is my main aim.

So, those itchy feet - I sort of like the idea of getting something shiny and new but only because disposable income and bike envy. The others mostly ride 29ers and are constantly fiddling and fettling with new cassettes/chainrings/mechs/wheels/brakes etc. My bike has had a new chain, new gear cables (last week) and new tyres and that's it. I gave it a really good cleaning last week and discovered that under nearly 10 years of neglected dirt and grease everything was still in good condition. Front and rear mechs operate smoothly. Brakes still brake (although I am getting low on the rear pads), wheels still turn with imperceptible run-out and the bearings are good, as is the bottom bracket.

I read recently that a so-so frame with tricked-up components is better than a blow-out frame with average mechanicals. My frame is OK - it is rubbed and scratched but there are no dents, cracks or corrosion. It fits me and I am used to it.

So, what are the pro's and con's of getting a new bike, getting a new frame and swapping my bits over or trading-up my components? Or, indeed, leave it alone and get on with it?

If components, which gives the best 'bang-for-buck'?

Also, if new bike/frame, is now the time to go 27.5" or 29"? I feel like I'm on a BMX when I go out with the laaads.

I'm looking to carry on doing more of the same (you can see my Strava profile in the BCF group if you wanna see where I go). I like the idea of taking on a big challenge next year - like the Rat Race Crossing (coast-to-coast MTB trails). This weekend I am doing a 35 mile local event which will be the longest single ride I'll have done to date

Those details:
Frame tubing: Kona All-Mountain Butted Aluminium
Fork: Marzocchi MZ Race, 100mm travel
Headset: 1 1/8” threadless TH
Crankarms: FSA Alpha Drive ISIS
Chainrings : 44/32/22 104.6
BB: RPM ISIS
Pedals: Shimano PD-M505 Clipless
Freewheel: Shimano Deore (11-32t, 9 speed) (HG-50?)
F/D: Shimano Deore
R/D: Shimano Deore XT
Shifters: Shimano Deore
Handlebar: WTB CXC Riser
Stem: WTB CXC
Brakes: HAYES HFX-9 XC W6 w/2-finger Lever
Front hub: KK Disc, 9mm skewer, ~110mm length
Rear hub: Shimano FH-M475 disc
Spokes: 15g front and 14g rear stainless DT Swiss (2.0/1.8mm)
Rims: Sun Black Eye
Saddle: WTB Laser V SPORT
Seatpost: WTB CXC
Seat clamp: Kona QR
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Yamaha XJ600 | Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat | KTM 990 SMT | BMW F900XR TE

[stinkwheel]

Nothing wrong with that lot. Fork travel a bit short by recent standards but I personally think it's overrated unless you are finding you are having trouble keeping the front wheel on the ground. I think I'd just ride it if I were you.

Assuming it fits you well, I'd keep riding it.

Spending a fortune on parts doesn't necessarily make you any faster.

I'm a LONG way from cycle fit but I've got a mate who spends an absolute fortune on his full-sus bike. He's always fitting new stuff to it and I keep up with him on my rigid, single speed 29"er... And at times on my 42 year old, 27" single speed road bike if we're just doing trails.

If I was going to build a new cross country hardtail, I'd go 650b. I built one for Mrs stinkwheel recently and it's a good compromise between the 26" standard and 29"er, the latter being a tad on the unruly side when it comes to tight cornering. I'm a big guy so the 29" suits me but I can see why it's not for everyone.

One more recent thing I am a fan of, which we did with Mrs stinkwheels bike was go for a 2x10 gearset. Fuck messing around with front chainrings. If I was having gears, I'd preferr a 1x11 but the consumables (chains, cassettes) were on the pricey side when I last looked.

I wouldn't change it for changes sake though. Your parts are high enough spec for most jobs.

Frames aren't all that expensive in the grand scheme of things. What you tend to find though is that while you'd like to think you can change your current parts over onto a new frame, there are variations that make it impossible. Things like the type of swing the front derralieur has, cable routing, brake calliper mount type/position and very significantly, headset configuration. You may also find a newer XC frame isn't set up to run with 100mm travel forks. Mrs stinkwheels new 650b XC bike has 150mm travel forks!
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[G]

It's actually not a bad spec compared to many bikes that are now sold as 'midrange'!

Dp you feel you'd benefit from rear suspension for the riding you do?

If you do, I'd certainly consider that.

If it's just for bigger newer wheels etc, personally I'd "JFRI" .

[Duffman]

With the bike and parts you've got i would just run it until it falls apart. There's a lot of new 'standards' that's come out in the MTB world in the past few years. Multiple wheel size options, axle changes replacing Quick Release, 1x11. All of these are pretty much designed to not be compatible with the previous fittings (you can get conversion kits for some things). Personally I've decided to run my current bikes into the ground while saving up for a complete bike. Fancy a carbon frame and 27.5 wheels full sus.
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MT-09 2015 ABS

[G]

Should be noted there's some very good deals (or was) on Carbon 26" bikes - A couple of years ago I got a four year old Scott Genius 10 (Carbon everything 6" tracvel XC) with a receipt for a good bit north of £4k original purchase price for under £1k. Think I'd still prefer that over a heavier newer 27.5".

[weasley]

A good dose of reality - thanks all, just what I needed.

I sometimes like the idea of a full-sus, some of the trails I ride are really messed up and when they dry they turn into a really horrible rippled surface. I don't do 'downhill' but do descend off of the Ridgeway down flinty, gnarly tracks with some roots and stuff thrown in. I'm quite happy to stand up and take the movement in my legs though. Sometimes I feel the front end is a bit unforgiving - I've set it to give as much travel as possible without bottoming out. I don't like the idea of a rear shock soaking up my pedalling effort as I am still not a great climber (although Strava says I am getting better).

Maybe I'll just ignore the other guys' bikes and ride mine well, replacing anything that wears or breaks.
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Yamaha XJ600 | Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat | KTM 990 SMT | BMW F900XR TE

[G]

Full suspension these days for 'xc' purposes can be very good - on loose surfaces they may often ascend better, as the play lets it find a bit more traction, rather than spinning on the down-stroke of a pedal. You may find it works better sitting on the seat rather than standing up.

Further, many bikes come with lock out - the above Genius 10 has a two stage lock out that works on both ends. So you can setup, say to have fully open, rear locked out and front a bit stiffer, then the second stage to be fully locked out.

[rhys99]