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Digital Dash Build - My long journey of Geekery

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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 31 Jul 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just thought Id post this, new mockup model of the speedo... I got the 2 gauge stepper motors in the post so I though to go ahead with the mockup before doing any more coding.

Ill need to change the stepper code for the new bipolar motors.

im out of solder, but I got some leds to go around the edge of the dials.

Though i only have enough for 20 per side. Ill be using 40 per side when i'm building the final version.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 19:56 - 04 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update on my custom digital speedo for my bike...

Also known as the Digital Dash project Smile

So I put this mockup dash together to test out the new gauge stepper motors and start building code thats more towards the final project.

This currently doesn't have the LED lights that will run up the side of the dials and light up along with the dials.

I spent several days trying to get the x25 library to work on my maple mini. I had to make some minor changes to the library, changing a variable type, changing stepper pattern pulses...

I have random values being generated for most of the gauge displays, they all move rather erratically at the moment. I might do some work on the random code to give a smoother flow of data...

Apart from that its nearly time to start making sensors to real real RPM and MPH data and start making real code to calculate it...

Currently this is all running off one 75Mhz maple mini. Im looking into ways of doing threading to smooth out the motor updates. I might still split up the project over several arduino mini boards that have there own dedicated tasks...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTfK81mRuz8
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orac
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PostPosted: 00:19 - 06 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Needs hysteresis
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Despined_By_Ex
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PostPosted: 10:42 - 06 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

cant wait to see this finished!
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Robby
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 23 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hate doing posts like this, because it feels like being at work.

That said, here's some of the advice that I give to over-enthusiastic developers and project managers on a daily basis.

Currently you have a lot of ideas and a lot of things going on all at once. This is how digital dash project start, and how they end (unfinished).

Don't try and do it all at once. For now, just concentrate on getting one critical part working - either the speedo or rev counter - and finish it. Then fit it to the bike and run it for a week, to see how it performs. You may quickly learn what Gerry means when he talks about the noisy electrical environment on a bike.

In the longer term, if you can't get 5 or 6 simple gauges working on a 75Mhz platform then look at your code. This sort of thing was working on simple integrated circuits in the 80s.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 14:36 - 24 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby I wouldnt worry ive been doing a lot of work on this and not been running out of steam... Certainly ive had times were ive been stumped by a problem for several days...

But Im used to working on long drawn out projects...

Most of the fundamental code is done and working, I've only been able to test with fake signals but its a start before I can put it on the bike.

I do have one question though as I found this odd...

I put my multi meter on my bikes RPM signal wire Black/Yellow, with the key turned on and engine off it reads 12v, engine on 13v... Im a bit stumped by this. I was expecting pulses of around 12 V to trigger the high volt ignition coil. I assumed via some kind of transistor... Or does it work the other way round? The Coil triggers on a low pulse? I dont have an oscilloscope to check the signal with... Does anyone know?

Also hopefully within a month ill be getting a 3D printer. Ill be able to start printing out a case for the thing. I've already mostly designed the case.

Oh and about the CPU, sure mathematically it can do everything really fast nothing wrong there. The trouble is running the motors. Because of the regular interrupts the motors appear stuttery or generally not smooth running. Having a second IC that just runs the motors solves that. Once i got everything working and reading off sensors properly I can take another look at seeing ways to speed up the code and maybe put the motor control back on the main IC.
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lihp
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PostPosted: 14:43 - 24 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:
I dont have an oscilloscope to check the signal with... Does anyone know?


Buy my portable scope 25 posted Thumbs Up
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 24 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

lihp wrote:
NutsyUk wrote:
I dont have an oscilloscope to check the signal with... Does anyone know?


Buy my portable scope 25 posted Thumbs Up


Cant afford it right now... But is it one of the arm/arduino based ones off ebay?
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lihp
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PostPosted: 00:03 - 25 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nah. It's a wellerman.
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orac
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PostPosted: 00:48 - 25 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

The main thing that does he doing projects like this, a decent show. My multi meter has a frequency setting. How does the current seen work? Does it used pulse count it pulse length? Where is the tacho feed coming from, the engine of the ecu/ignitor?

A scope be above 3d printer on my kit list
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lihp
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PostPosted: 09:39 - 25 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

orac wrote:

A scope be above 3d printer on my kit list


I also have 95% of a 3D printer going as well Laughing
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Evil Hans
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PostPosted: 09:58 - 25 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good ... one day when I have enough time and money to get back to building my Kit Car I'll probably be doing something similar.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 15:50 - 25 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Evil Hans wrote:
Looking good ... one day when I have enough time and money to get back to building my Kit Car I'll probably be doing something similar.


Cool would like to see that...
Oh and i dont have money... just plenty of time :p

As for the oscilloscope. Trouble is. While I could do with one. I wont be using it often enough to warrant actually buying one right now.

Though tbh, i lie... I do have one, well my dad has one he used to check PA equipment out with... But its one of the really old vacuum tube based ones with a green round display. Im not sure if its possible to measure timing with it other than view a waveform.

I might get it out and check the signal... See if anything catches fire :p

I've attached a copy of the wiring for the bike. Im taking an educated assumption/guess that the black and yellow cable is the spark plug signal cable? The splice off that goes to the old gauge is were im trying to read off.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 16:23 - 27 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

New update to the led side of things...

Added a peak light to the led array and an indicator animation...


And i have a horrid voice Sad im so sorry you guys heard me :p

https://youtu.be/3EB2JFl9izM
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 01:55 - 28 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I assumed via some kind of transistor... Or does it work the other way round? The Coil triggers on a low pulse? I dont have an oscilloscope to check the signal with... Does anyone know?

Electromagnetic Induction 101 old boy
When the magnetic field on the LT windings of the coil collapes after it's switched to ground, this 'induces' a corresponding pulse in the HT windings which discharges itself by jumping the gap in the plug.

It isnt a nice clean square wave either, you'll see plenty of 'ringing' if you scope it so to read this on a duino type thing with 5v max inputs you'll need some filtering.
I also used an opto isolator for protection when I experimented
with an Arduino as tacho out of curiosity.
I bet your dads old scope would be up to monitoring it as ignition pulses are not even close to the audio frequency/kilohertz range.
A single cylinder ignition pulse at 10,000 rpm is only 166.6r hz on a wasted spark system which I beleive your bike has.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 13:30 - 28 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

ive quite possibly killed the bikes electrics o.O and im not really sure how it was possible ive done it...

All i did was put a 12-5v power regulator off the bikes main line... that worked fine but when i turned it off to wire the rest of the dash in i smelt electric smoke... also known as the magic smoke... i then tried to turn on the bike again and nothing... Dead no power... Im hoping its just a fuse but I also still don't know how it happened :/...

Dads out at the moment... Need a hand taking the tank off to get to the main wiring loom, ecu and fuse :/ *cries*
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 14:33 - 28 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was just the fuse. phew
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 17:44 - 28 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was trying to test the RPM read, i had a mosfet transistor... But it didnt seem to work at all.. It would just short the board it seemed...

Pretty sure I had the circuit setup right >.>

You mentioned a opto isolator... In conjunction with noise reduction caps? or just the IC alone?
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orac
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 29 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why are using a mosfet, they are normally used for switching power loads and need to he triggered correctly. I personally would be using a potential divider to drop the 13v down to 2 or 3 volts plug it into the adc of a Arduino and see what happens (send take back to serial reciever). You can use a 5.1 zenner for Additional protection in parallel with the bottom resistor, both the bike and the logic circuit wo have to share ground too. Is still possible for electrical noise to reset or even kill the Arduino, putting a 1k resistor between the divider and the adc should offer some over current protection.

If that works you will be able to make a decision about signal conditioning
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 18:27 - 08 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi guys sorry for the lack of update... Ive been busy with electronics trying to work things out...

The circuit design has been tweaked a lot... Im still using 2 vRegs for the running and high beam light signal but only because they could run for a long time and I felt would be suited better for the long running than resistors... though that could change after some further testing...

Im about to print out my first PCB of the dash, but I just have one last thing to sort out.

I need a little help or some input on how the Fuel Gauge works on this or tbh any other bike... If there is a standard way.

For the most part I think I've worked it out, but it was a little confusing as the Wireing Diagram for the bike is, while correct is slightly different to when the dash comes involved.

After taking the dash apart and looking at the fuel gauge to work out how it worked, I was a little surprised. Not as I expected.

On the wiring diagram both the yellow and blue wires go into the gauge and feed to the sensor. I expected one wire took the 12v off the black wire and went through the float resistor. And the gauge read the returned voltage off the other wire.

However on taking the gauge apart I realised the bluewire wasnt even connected to anything... it stops at the loom socket.

And I think the gauge reads through a voltage divider.

This is what I want to confirm, before I accidentally send 12+v down into a float resistor thats designed for a lower voltage and makes my tank explode Very Happy

Excuse the symbol for the floats variable resistor. I know its wrong but its the one used in eagle...

Does anyone know;

Is the float resistor a 10k or 100k? Im thinking 100, but I cant test it right now...

The returned voltage on the divider ranges between 7 and 12 volts, assuming the in volt is a clean 12 (which it isn't), Dont worry ill be dropping this to a voltage the project can read safely...

Does that sound right? Tbh I exspected between 0 and 12 before I opened up the dash and saw the 75ohm resistor...

If anyone can confirm any of this for me... or stop me from killing myself in a painful fiery way, I would really appreciate it.

PS sorry for the slightly hard to read post, im really really tired after being ill most of last night... Was kinda hard to explain everything
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orac
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PostPosted: 08:01 - 09 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

why do you need 2 regs? if the one the high beam goes low, then the bikes on dipped beam.

as for the fuel gauge, get your multi meter and measure the resistance, don't guess.
the only thing that will kill a resistor will be too much current, considering its designed to work in a 15v environment while the bike is running.
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jimspeed
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PostPosted: 12:45 - 09 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

The coil will be supplied with 12v+ while it's on. The switching is done on the -ve side .
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 13:34 - 09 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

orac wrote:
why do you need 2 regs? if the one the high beam goes low, then the bikes on dipped beam.

as for the fuel gauge, get your multi meter and measure the resistance, don't guess.
the only thing that will kill a resistor will be too much current, considering its designed to work in a 15v environment while the bike is running.


Not guessing. I read the colours and compared them to the meter.

As for the high beam going low... umm how am i meant to detect that if both high beam and running lights go through the same vreg?
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orac
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 09 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can infer the condition of lights, it high been is off then dropped beam is on. If main beam is on then dipped beam is off. The condition can be determined from the other meaning you only have to know the state of one.

Its a simple logical argument the at processor can deal with
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 09 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

orac wrote:
You can infer the condition of lights, it high been is off then dropped beam is on. If main beam is on then dipped beam is off. The condition can be determined from the other meaning you only have to know the state of one.

Its a simple logical argument the at processor can deal with


I get that... but then how would it know if theyre both off?
The signal of the running light is to turn on the backlights and change the backlight level of the screen...
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