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Digital Dash Build - My long journey of Geekery

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orac
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PostPosted: 00:17 - 10 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lights should be on at all times, pretty much all modern-ish have them wired permanently on.

Also if you had answered with explanation things would have been more
do you plan on detecting side light to, are you dealing with indicators in the same way. I would suggest you look into multi channel voltage input buffer, getting the correct one should go a fair way to dealing with only noise. Had any hardware resets from that yet or have you not run anything of a runing bike
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 15:29 - 10 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

My lights dont run all the time... they switch...

Anyway Got the tester out today and measured the ohms on the float.

100ohms when low 16 when high...

Does that sound about right to anyone?

Googling around this doesn't seem to be a common range so its fair to say the test might be inaccurate.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 14:25 - 22 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Little update........ :p

Well ive been really busy these last couple of weeks making tweaks and changes to the circuit design for the PCB... and designing the PCB :p

Last night i etched my first prototype pcb...

Its far from perfect... I did the toner transfer method but it didnt transfer brilliantly... I used baking parchment, but its just TOO slick for the toner to stick to well enough... Next time Ill prolly go for the glossy photo paper method. Anyway, the boards not as pretty as i want it to be but its mostly viable. I need to reenforce one trace.

I should be getting some fine drill bits in the post in the next day or two, I can then do the holes and start putting the parts on...
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 14:25 - 22 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Little update........ :p

Well ive been really busy these last couple of weeks making tweaks and changes to the circuit design for the PCB... and designing the PCB :p

Last night i etched my first prototype pcb...

Its far from perfect... I did the toner transfer method but it didnt transfer brilliantly... I used baking parchment, but its just TOO slick for the toner to stick to well enough... Next time Ill prolly go for the glossy photo paper method. Anyway, the boards not as pretty as i want it to be but its mostly viable. I need to reenforce one trace.

I should be getting some fine drill bits in the post in the next day or two, I can then do the holes and start putting the parts on...
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 21:56 - 29 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess it was always going to happen... At least with the first.

I failed... Really failed.........

So with this prototype board I got impatient. I really want to get on with coding the project, but i need a working board to do that.

So instead of waiting for the solder mask paint I went ahead and started soldering bits on. I learnt a lot about the board, things i need to change and fix...

Stupid things like needing to put solder pads on the opposite side of the board to the component... Or wiring the serial connection between MCUs correctly and not having the tracks lead to one pin to the left -.-
Embarassed Those I fixed with some bogging... But still this is the prototype board. Its for finding these mistakes and fixing them...

But the final nail in the coffin for the board... After bodging on a solder mask. Ive discovered even with paste, I cant use a soldering iron to solder on the addressable leds. It kills the LED chip really really quickly. When trying to remove one of the dead leds with the iron, it basically ripped up the track and half the fibre board Sad

Live and learn I guess...

Well im going to have to make a new PCB, this time ill fix the tracks and correct the solder pad sides... Ill get a nice solder mask painted on as well before i do anything. And buy extra flux because BOY do i need it. This lead free solder is terrible... Really sticky and turns gloopy very quickly.

Anyway here is the carnage... http://i.imgur.com/TCsEnuO.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Mh8Hhpx.jpg

Dont hate me because im beautiful... hate me because im thick as shit Sad
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Codemonkey
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PostPosted: 11:28 - 30 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

1) Don't bother with lead free solder. As you say, its crap. Get some decent lead stuff, you only need lead free if you're putting something into production.

2) Although your PCB doesn't look too bad for a home etched/routed board, have a look at the likes of Elecrow or other cheap PCB makers. For less than 20 you can get some professionally made boards with proper solder resist and tinned pads, it makes a world of difference when it comes to working with surface mount devices.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 11:40 - 30 Sep 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, ive saved the link. When it coems to building the final board I probably will go with a manufacturer. At this stage, esp now i got most of the bits I might as well carry on building my own while i work out the hardware crap...

This time I'm going to be patient and do it properly...
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Codemonkey
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PostPosted: 14:34 - 01 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're going to continue etching your own boards, I can recommend one of these:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/abrasive-polishing-block-hx04e

After etching & drilling, clean it carefully with one of those to get rid of the oxide layer and then wipe clean with some IPA, it improves the solderability no end.

I also use a chemtronics no clean flux dispensing pen which I think I got from Farnell or RS.

Also, another option is to get a solder paste stencil made. I get mine from here:

http://www.smtstencil.co.uk/

Then squeegee some solder paste on with an old credit card and use a cheapo toaster oven from Currys or Argos to reflow the solder. It's nice to have a controller for the correct temperature profile (I built my own), but the little ovens even on full power tend to heat up only at about the right rate anyway so you can get away without one. Just pop the board in, stick the oven on full power and watch through the little window until you can see the solder paste begin to melt. Give it another 10 to 15 seconds and then open the door and let it cool down. I can get results that look as good as a professional assembler down to 0603 passives and 0.5mm pitch QFN's if I'm careful and its a lot easier than hand soldering a ton of SMT parts (just don't knock the board when transferring it into the oven!!
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 18:58 - 01 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have an old toaster oven my mum used to use here, i considered building it into a reflow oven, but if i can get away with not having to do that and still get a decent job done... great Very Happy Ill try that.

I dont know about getting stencils done. Its an extra cost i can avoid. But Ive got some paste needles on the way. ill just have to do it by hand.
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Irezumi aka Reuben
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PostPosted: 19:33 - 01 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

One didnt go quite as well as it could but definately not a failure. Well done for even trying this let alone mostly succeeding. Thumbs Up
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 10:44 - 02 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Progress has been good so far...but I'd Deffo be looking at treating yourself to a better printed board!! Is there a local collage or uni that could help if 20 is busting the budget??? Re visit your original design and sort out the issues you've found and flow that board!!
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ScaredyCat
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PostPosted: 11:44 - 02 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:
After bodging on a solder mask. Ive discovered even with paste, I cant use a soldering iron to solder on the addressable leds. It kills the LED chip really really quickly. When trying to remove one of the dead leds with the iron, it basically ripped up the track and half the fibre board Sad


http://skpang.co.uk/catalog/neopixel-14-60-ring-ws2812-5050-rgb-led-w-integrated-drivers-p-1303.html

Just sayin'
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 13:59 - 02 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah seen those premade rings... but theyre the wrong radius and the wrong led size, sadly. Would have been easier to just fit in a premade thing in there :p

And 20 isnt breaking the bank. Just i have all the stuff, i rather do it myself if i can.

I am however waiting for heat transfer sheets from china... That would be at least a week i think, maybe two.

I want to try these out rather than going the baking paper route again and see if it is a much cleaner transfer.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 19:08 - 08 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its a good thing too this board died, even my Rev2 design isnt going to work quite right ive just worked out...

Need some advice. Ive measured the RPM signal on the bike with my cheapo oscilloscope. While I can see the regular pulse signal. Each pulse looks more like a block of noisy wave form rather than a sine or square like wave... I need some sort of signal filtering going on to clean or smooth it up, But at the same time not smooth is to much that you can read at higher revs.

I know there are a few techy guys here as some posted on this thread Very Happy Anyone got any tips of know how i can deal with this?
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 09 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually no worries i think i found a solution, using a schmitt and a zenner :>
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 00:00 - 04 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's gone Quiet for a month now? Any progress
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 15:43 - 04 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heh yes and no :p I was going to update a few days ago but I thought to wait untill i had more to say...

Well good news and bad news....
Bad news first, Rev2 wasnt going to work, the power issues was its down fall. I redesigned the pcb and made a new board, correcting the power distribution.

I tried to recycle the leds from the board, but too many became damaged from the heat. I had to order a new set of addressable leds from china...

Also the sale of our flat fell through so were really hard up money wise, Im not going to really be able to spend any more money on this project for a while.

So not going to be getting a 3D printer, prolly till January now...

But there is some good news.

Before the flat sale fell through i ordered some new leds, And today they turned up. Im going to solder them to the board and put the rest of the board together.

Ive been working on the code, ive added mph/kph calculations and various functions. Including using a rewritten led library thats a lot better than the previous one.

if all goes well I should have something to show in a couple of days...

Because of the flat not selling I'm going to miss my self imposed soft deadline Sad.

Ive got everything I need to put the board together. I shouldn't need to spend any more money to make the new prototype.

(though off the top of my head i might need to buy a few capacitors but there really cheap)

So this projects most certainly far from dead. Just slowed due to money.

Also coding is hard when your on anti depressants :/ I find it more difficult to hold chains in my head. Which you kinda need for programming :p
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 01:47 - 09 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I've got to "keep a lot of balls in the air" I can't drink coffee let alone serious meds! Glad to hear it's still rolling on tho...so get that update done
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 20:57 - 09 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://youtu.be/0iCUb20Xvdo

Just to show its happening :>

Though these leds are proving to be a right pain
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 17:10 - 29 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://youtu.be/e3CYDT0tZ-g

Update Very Happy though nothing major
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lihp
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PostPosted: 19:36 - 29 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even this has more progress than rainpal.

How many LinkedIn contacts do you have?
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 08:02 - 30 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you need 3D printed?
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 12:49 - 30 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

No linked in contacts :p Ive only recently signed up to start looking to see whats there, for when i try and get back into doing graphics work...

This has been a totally self funded project saving off my esa benefits (not great i know) but i need to do something to keep my mind active...

I would love to have some sort of financial support so i can get all the tools and bits I need to do this faster. but I have no idea how to setup any kinda of donation or thing for it. I dont want to go down a investment route where i could end up getting hundreds of presale payments because I simply have no idea how much this thing is going to cost for mass production... And so I dont know if I would be able to keep up with orders.

At the moment im hand making everything. The PCBs are a pain to do, they take a day to etch and mask. Thats before drilling and putting components on.

I would at least get the pcbs made by some factory somewhere on mass... but component placing has to be done by hand as the led arrays have double sided smd components, they cant be done on mass with a pick and place machine and oven. Though if some one makes a 5mm rectangle led with addressable chip built in that would save me a lot of bother.

As for 3d printing, the case comes in 4 parts. Though that could change I still need to do some work on its design in cad. Its currently top breezier, upper midsection, lower midsection and back.

While I could get it printed at some place at some cost, I really rather have my own printer. But with the flat sail falling through were still on the poverty line.

If i did need to make 50 or 100 units I would go down the plastic injection mould route. But I have no idea how much that costs so I couldnt factor that into the cost of the thing at this time. And as the design is not finished I cant get quotes.

I would love an official perusa mk2 printer. But at 600 odd quid its just not something I can buy at this time. The cheaper Chinese kits for the mk2 are questionable in quality and I fear not worth the risk now.

At the same time as doing all this, Im still trying to pay to get my bike on the road. Mechanically im done with it. Even have a new set of tyres.

All i need to do now is get my CBT out the way (thats easy and affordable) and then do the insurance. But at 260 quid thats not so easy and affordable. From my 140 quid a fortnight im paying for the odd bit in my project or something towards the bike. Paying for the houses telephone line and paying for food. It doesnt leave much if anything left to save with.

Anyway, some how Ill cope...
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 30 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Send me the stl files, I'll see if I can sort out printing for you.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 15:11 - 30 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Give me a few days to finish off the design and have something for you to look at.
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