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Azoth Brolly Dolly
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Posted: 02:26 - 20 Sep 2016 Post subject: |
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Data is available going back to 2001 for both bikes.
EDIT: Just checked that data again.
It seems the ER5 is even more unreliable than I first thought, as they were dropping from the roads even while they were still being manufactured. Very few of the total number of these bikes made are still on the road today, whereas the CB500S appears to be considerably more robust.
Source:
https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/?utf8=%E2%9C%93&q=Kawasaki+ER
https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/vehicle/honda_cb_500_s ____________________ Safety in numbers |
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha |
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha World Chat Champion
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Rogerborg nimbA
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Posted: 07:48 - 20 Sep 2016 Post subject: |
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Tawny wrote: | EDIT: Just checked that data again. |
Third time's the charm.
Tawny wrote: | Very few of the total number of these bikes made are still on the road today, whereas the CB500S appears to be considerably more robust. |
There are many models of ER5 listed versus a few long running CB500 / CB500S bikes.
Early model ERs are now pretty much 1:1 VED (i.e. probably running) vs SORNed (likely rotting in a shed), worse then the CB.
But the late models ER5 C5P has a better ratio of VED/SORNed than the CB.
Eyeballing it, it appears to be about a wash overall.
Hello, an ER5 killed your father, I shall prepare to die. ____________________ Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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Posted: 09:31 - 20 Sep 2016 Post subject: |
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I'd have a CB500 over an ER5. They are practically the same bike in terms of weight and dimensions etc. The build quality on the CB is probably better and the CB probably has a slight edge on performance.
I'd have a GPZ500 over either. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha |
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha World Chat Champion
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Posted: 13:13 - 20 Sep 2016 Post subject: |
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M.C wrote: | Not ridden a CB500, but the ER5's the most boring bike I've ridden, to the point where I'd class every other bike as fun and place the ER5 in the mind-numbingly boring/soulless/suicide inducing column.
The only good thing about the bike is it has truly shocking brakes (rear drum brakes - what a fantastic idea), so crashing it might make your journey slightly more exciting. |
I've ridden CB500s with both disc and drum - put tens of thousands of miles on both. Drum wins. It has better "feel" than the Brembo disc (which is a bit wooden in comparison). Put simply, it slows the bike better.
It's difficult to lock the back up w/ disc - but the drum does it easily. However, once you're accustomed to it, and because of the superior feel, this isn't something that happens. The disc is a bit feeble in comparison. Also bear in mind that there are no fluids to worry about with the drum - so maintenance is easier.
Not that maintenance is something you'll do that often as the shoes last forever - don't forget we're talking about twins here, so there's always a goodly amount of engine braking to be had. But even so - there's a decent layer of compound on those shoes.
I have however read on here that the drum on the ER is said to have a tendency to go out of round, wearing unevenly. I've not heard of this issue with the drum on the CB. So this might be something for the OP to look into. Suffice to say though that the "S" version of the Honda was introduced a few years after assembly had moved from Japan to Italy, where Brembo callipers were fitted front and back, replacing the Nissin one and of course the back drum. Afaik the ER was *always* drum throughout its production.
Apparently the CB makes almost 10 more BHP than the ER (57 against 48), which I find a bit hard to believe. But on the subject of comparison, I have spent a couple of hours on an MT-03. I did like it - but it fucking sucked for town work compared to a CB500. The big single isn't half as tractable in and through traffic - although there is this sense of hey fucker, behave. We're trying to keep it civil here. And then when it does, you get a vague sense of achievement from riding around it's questionable attitude borne of dicky fuelling and what-not. Meanwhile the CB just politely gets you there.
My other thing is the sound of the MT-03 - it had a rattly tone to the cans that sounded a bit broken. Shove a de-baffled zorst on the CB, though, and it rumbles and howls in quite a tuneful way. Plenty of sturm und drang to be had. Imo lots better than the MT (though the MT might win with Arrows on it or Leo Vincis etc. - not heard it tbh). Looks-wise I'd choose the MT, but for literally everything else I'd have a CB. It welcomes a good ragging and is generally pretty obedient. ____________________ "Life is a sexually transmitted disease and the mortality rate is one hundred percent."
Mobylette Type 50 ---> Raleigh Grifter ---> Neval Minsk 125 |
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Azoth Brolly Dolly
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Posted: 13:26 - 20 Sep 2016 Post subject: |
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha wrote: | Apparently the CB makes almost 10 more BHP than the ER (57 against 48), which I find a bit hard to believe. |
I don't believe much of what manufacturers say on bhp. It's like the wattage of audio amplifiers and speakers. Often massively exaggerated, particularly at the low end of the budget scale, because that sort of listener can basically hear 'quiet' and 'loud' (both psychoacoustic perceptions that have only a little to do with amplitude). If you measure an ER5 and a CB500 at the crank today, you would probably get a reading of around 30bhp for both. I say that on the basis of the top speed you're likely to get from either bike on the flat not exceeding 100mph by much. The reason for this has a lot to do with to whom these bikes were originally pitched.
Example:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_td738b_94g
The guy goes on about the bike not being inspirational. At the time, that was the cue for bikers to perceive 'reliable and predictable'. That perception was probably Kawasaki's marketing goal with the ER5. After all, as you can see, nobody ever checked the quality of build components in the motoring leisure media (and they still don't). 'Reliability' is treated more like a matter of faith: Japanese meant reliable, an equal response across the throttle curve meant reliable, a lack of squeaks meant reliable, etc. These assumptions were never challenged at the time the CB500 and ER5 were new. However, the basic difference between the bikes was that Honda held on to that one major selling point in its corporate ethos: reliability. Meanwhile, Kawasaki made a big catalogue of bikes that were meant to be exciting, while the ER5 was its budget model designed to burrow into Honda's market share. ____________________ Safety in numbers |
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M.C Super Spammer
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Posted: 14:05 - 20 Sep 2016 Post subject: |
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha wrote: | Suffice to say though that the "S" version of the Honda was introduced a few years after assembly had moved from Japan to Italy, where Brembo callipers were fitted front and back, replacing the Nissin one and of course the back drum. Afaik the ER was *always* drum throughout its production.
Apparently the CB makes almost 10 more BHP than the ER (57 against 48), which I find a bit hard to believe. But on the subject of comparison, I have spent a couple of hours on an MT-03. I did like it - but it fucking sucked for town work compared to a CB500. The big single isn't half as tractable in and through traffic - although there is this sense of hey fucker, behave. We're trying to keep it civil here. And then when it does, you get a vague sense of achievement from riding around it's questionable attitude borne of dicky fuelling and what-not. Meanwhile the CB just politely gets you there.
My other thing is the sound of the MT-03 - it had a rattly tone to the cans that sounded a bit broken. Shove a de-baffled zorst on the CB, though, and it rumbles and howls in quite a tuneful way. Plenty of sturm und drang to be had. Imo lots better than the MT (though the MT might win with Arrows on it or Leo Vincis etc. - not heard it tbh). Looks-wise I'd choose the MT, but for literally everything else I'd have a CB. It welcomes a good ragging and is generally pretty obedient. |
Apparently '96 onwards they were rear disc on the CB500, but as I said I've not ridden one, I just found the brakes on the ER5 shockingly bad. Also on the dual-carriageway I was doing 70, went to kick up a gear, realised I was already in top gear Granted it was a tired old school bike but I imagine most of these are old and tired by now.
Dunno when the MT-03 was mentioned , but I've always said the fueling's awful and not recommended it for city commuting (even though that's what I use mine for). In terms of stock sound I love it, the pops and crackles still make me smile. Sure you can put a loud exhaust on any bike and make it sound good.
My comparison for the ER5 is actually against bikes which the BCF consensus considers boring, so I know it's really really boring Also it was my first big bike experience, so it should have been a rush, and it wasn't. It handles alright but just lacks what every other bike I've ridden seems to have, a fun factor (even in a really small quantity). |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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Posted: 16:26 - 20 Sep 2016 Post subject: |
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I saw that one and it kinda reinforces my point. £800 is a lot for a bike from last century with 44k. If that was £500 I could see the value
I understand budgets but if you want the best value bike(s) save up for a little while longer. That ER6's a bargain, someone will be throwing their money at the seller shortly. |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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Posted: 17:16 - 20 Sep 2016 Post subject: |
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FredTheHorse wrote: |
How much of a pain would you say it is for someone who hasn't worked on one before? I would put my mechanical skills as "adequate". All the things I listed as reasons for not choosing the GPZ are all things I expect to be able to do with only minor teething troubles as I've never done them before. How would you guess I would fair if I had to do replace all the bushes? |
No harder than a CB500 to work on really (I've worked on both). Again, all the things you list pretty much appear on both bikes. The valve clearances on the GPZ are easier because they are locknut adjusters rather than bucket and shim, just need doing more frequently (and need the coolant draining down to do so) but you're not doing it THAT often. Once a year or less depending on mileage.
Sparkplugs are a pain to get at on a GPZ500, you need the correct plug spanner.
Monoshock linkage bushings, if it needs doing, is a case of getting the bike on the main stand, propping up the swingarm and undoing three bolts. This will remove the casting and the two dog-bones.
Then it's just a case of drifting the 6 old bushes out (I used a socket and extension bar last time I did it), cleaning it up and pushing the new ones in. Not a hard job, just a bit mucky and annoying (not least because you're looking at £140 in parts if it needs doing).
As with all these jobs. Read the manual through fully and take digital photos as you go (especially for routing of cables).
With the age of bike you're looking at, condition is much more important than model. A good ER5 will be better than a poor CB500. A GPZ will be more fun to ride than either but not if it spends its whole life broken down.
Have a look at my KLE500 resurrection thread. Just to get an idea of how costs can mount up on simple consumables on an older, slightly fucked bike. I had a bike which was a) Running and b) Had an MOT when it was put into a dry lockup. After sitting for 6 years, it took £320 to get it MOTed again. That's without fitting new tyres.
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=312007
That said, those 500 paralell twins (the GS500 being the other one, and arguably the simplest of the bunch) are among the cheapest "big" bikes to maintain. Single discs, only two cylinders, relatively skinny tyres, skinny chains etc.
What'll really blow your wad is if any of them need an exhaust. Bear this in mind when shopping.
The ER6 is a step-change up in performance and refinement.
I would actually have another GPZ500. I'd get a shitty looking one with lowest possible mileage, upgrade and fully overhaul the suspension and brakes and bung some aftermarket plastics on it painted a wacky colour. Maybe tweak the engine a little more. But I can afford to throw money at something like that as a toy. What I don't have is space to keep it until I've sold something else... ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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Falco |
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Falco Traffic Copper
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Posted: 19:36 - 20 Sep 2016 Post subject: |
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stinkwheel wrote: | FredTheHorse wrote: |
How much of a pain would you say it is for someone who hasn't worked on one before? I would put my mechanical skills as "adequate". All the things I listed as reasons for not choosing the GPZ are all things I expect to be able to do with only minor teething troubles as I've never done them before. How would you guess I would fair if I had to do replace all the bushes? |
No harder than a CB500 to work on really (I've worked on both). Again, all the things you list pretty much appear on both bikes. The valve clearances on the GPZ are easier because they are locknut adjusters rather than bucket and shim, just need doing more frequently (and need the coolant draining down to do so) but you're not doing it THAT often. Once a year or less depending on mileage.
Sparkplugs are a pain to get at on a GPZ500, you need the correct plug spanner. |
Well that is quite reassuring (that the work appears on both bikes). IIRC the coolant needs doing less often than the valves, so by doing the valves at the correct intervals, the coolant will be done already. Which is nice
stinkwheel wrote: | Monoshock linkage bushings, if it needs doing, is a case of getting the bike on the main stand, propping up the swingarm and undoing three bolts. This will remove the casting and the two dog-bones.
Then it's just a case of drifting the 6 old bushes out (I used a socket and extension bar last time I did it), cleaning it up and pushing the new ones in. Not a hard job, just a bit mucky and annoying (not least because you're looking at £140 in parts if it needs doing). |
This is part of my trepidation. £140 to replace the bushes, ~£300 if you want a new monoshock. Compare to a CB500 or an ER5 where a completely new set of rear shocks are £140.
Add to this the fact that the suspension on the GPZ has a *lot* of play (apparently), even when in good nick. This means potential hassle from MOT man and a much higher likelihood of me ending up with a lemon when I waggle the swingarm, feel some play and think its normal, then end up having to replace the whole thing (thats a worst case scenario sure, but not one I can really afford to run into)
[quote-"stinkwheel" As with all these jobs. Read the manual through fully and take digital photos as you go (especially for routing of cables).
With the age of bike you're looking at, condition is much more important than model. A good ER5 will be better than a poor CB500. A GPZ will be more fun to ride than either but not if it spends its whole life broken down.
Have a look at my KLE500 resurrection thread. Just to get an idea of how costs can mount up on simple consumables on an older, slightly fucked bike. I had a bike which was a) Running and b) Had an MOT when it was put into a dry lockup. After sitting for 6 years, it took £320 to get it MOTed again. That's without fitting new tyres. [/quote]
That was a great thread. Not surprised at the cost though. Having done a significant (though less than detailed in that thread) amount ofn work on my cg that required new components, I am unpleasantly well aware of how quickly the costs of consumables can add up.
stinkwheel wrote: | That said, those 500 paralell twins (the GS500 being the other one, and arguably the simplest of the bunch) are among the cheapest "big" bikes to maintain. Single discs, only two cylinders, relatively skinny tyres, skinny chains etc.
What'll really blow your wad is if any of them need an exhaust. Bear this in mind when shopping. |
The GS500 seems to be universally reviled, haven't seen many people with much good to say about them.
The price of exhausts does seem rather steep!
stinkwheel wrote: | The ER6 is a step-change up in performance and refinement.
I would actually have another GPZ500. I'd get a shitty looking one with lowest possible mileage, upgrade and fully overhaul the suspension and brakes and bung some aftermarket plastics on it painted a wacky colour. Maybe tweak the engine a little more. But I can afford to throw money at something like that as a toy. What I don't have is space to keep it until I've sold something else... |
Is it a step up in maintenance headaches as well? Not that I can afford them at the current prices, but if it wouldn't add any major problems then I'll keep an eye out (can't forget about that extra £2-£300 that should be added to any bike purchase for consumables - which is what puts £1500 out of my price bracket).
I'd like to have a bike as a toy, but more than that I'd like to have a second bike for when the first one inevitably breaks.... one bike at a time, I suppose. |
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mkjackary Nitrous Nuisance
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Falco Traffic Copper
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Posted: 00:09 - 22 Sep 2016 Post subject: |
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mrbox wrote: | just to add I have owned a cb500 with an oval rear drum.
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Well so much for that idea. Is it obvious when its gone oval? Could you tell from an external inspection?
mkjackary wrote: | I went for an ER5 as I found they could be had for cheaper and I personally prefered the look.
Front brakes are a bit naff, but all it took was a new set of decent pads (mine still had the 19y/o originals on) and a caliper/piston clean and now they are actually pretty good, especially considering it is a single disc.
Went out to test them and managed to do the tiniest endo before locking the front wheel (I was going in a straight line so was okay, but the grit on the road f*cked my tires).
I have ridden both and they are very similar, just go for whatever you prefer the look of. And if you have no preference, look out for a good deal.
Got my R reg 21k miles ER5 for £400 including a security chain, lock, and 5L of 10w40. |
I know it's a smaller bike, but the addition of new pads, fresh fluid, stripping and cleaning the caliper and putting a braided steel hose on, turned pretty bad brakes to really quite good ones (almost dropped the bike the first couple of times due to it).
As I say, they both have advantages and disadvantages, so I guess it's going to be a matter of a good deal. Not quite as good as your though! I wouldn't be able to shake the feeling that there was something seriously wrong at that price!
mjackary wrote: | managed to do the tiniest endo | I'm afraid I don't understand this. An Endo? Not familiar with the term, what does it mean?
Last edited by Falco on 11:03 - 22 Sep 2016; edited 1 time in total |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 7 years, 217 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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