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Winter maintenance and frame work, ideas needed plz...

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Chris45
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 23 Oct 2016    Post subject: Winter maintenance and frame work, ideas needed plz... Reply with quote

Right guys, here's the story. Have a faithful old GPZ 500 S (98) with 30K on the clock. Do all my own maintenance in my shed, BUT, have noticed some big issues needing done this winter while it's off the road for three months.

1. The frame is beginning to suffer from rot, all over. I don't mind spending hours to refurb and restore as far as practical, but don't have a clue where to start. Need help with things like, rubbing down the affected frame to bare metal? Emery paper? What primer should I use and what type of paint when I repaint areas of the frame?

I have a professional paint sprayer (bought at a car boot for £25) and I can do a nice spray of the frame areas affected.

2. Have a leaking fuel tap which I've known about for ages. However it's getting worse so is it worth trying a repair kit first?

Any other advice while I have the tank and panels off would be welcome guys. I've been really lucky with my bike over the years, really reliable and strong engine, although the brakes are a bit dodgy!

Thnx every1.

Chris
Inverness.
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 20:49 - 23 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

cant help with the frame, but ebay tap repair kits.

mine cost £20 for my Bandit - sorted it out a treat Thumbs Up
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 05:19 - 24 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

My GN is in a similar state, it is very reliable but does need some attention now before things become terminal.

My bike is very much a workhorse and as such I'm not at all fussed on looks. My plan of attack is to attack the frame with various items such as wire cup-brush in the angle grinder and various drill-mounted wire brushes. I will then proceed to brush on a load of red-oxide primer and then paint it (with brush) with the thickest gunkiest form of black I can find. Apparently truck-bed liner does quite a good job. The end result will likely look pretty rough but be resistant to further corrosion.

I'm sure a few people will chime in soon telling you to just send away the frame for powdercoating, which I believe is actually quite reasonably priced and probs worth it if you want a nice finish, esp as they can prep/shotblast for you before it gets coated.

All depends what kind of finish/looks you want really. I hate any kind of painting/bodywork with an absolute passion and hence see the point of paint is to stop corrosion rather than looking pretty.
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pompousporcup...
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PostPosted: 07:54 - 24 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just how bad is the rot? post some pics

having stripped two gpz500s back to a frame, de-rusted and re-assembled, im going to tell you to not spend more than you really have to.. they're just not worth much money, even if you make it "mint".

what i would do if i were you, and have done myself, is to get it down to a frame** (about an afternoons work if you're efficient, maybe 2 if you are going to meticulously label everything, which you should be doing)

Once its a frame, de-grease the shit out of it and then get the rust bits down to bare metal as best as possible Thumbs Up doesn't really matter what you use, although a wire wheel will work nicely. Course(ish) grit paper will work fine too, start and a course grit and work up to 1500 if needs be
Cover the frame in this stuff, which will neutralise whats left of the corrosion (half litre should be fine)
https://www.rust.co.uk/fe-123-best-in-every-test-rust-converter/p405034

Once thats done and the frame prepped and rust free (ish) just use rattle cans of your choice (be it hammerite or some fancy stuff)
let it dry/cure properly and then reassemble the bike... if its a work horse, that's about the work i'd do to stop the rust for a long while yet.

Anything more is (in my personal opinion) a waste of money and time. You could at this point replace the head and wheel bearings as its not a lot more money and will save hassle in the future Thumbs Up
If you haven't done so already, fit a braided line with decent pads (not ebay shite) which will help.

I ride my gpz5 daily and i don't baby it around. The brakes, while shite in comparison to sport 600+'s, work well enough for me.

fuel tap repair kits:
https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/kawasaki/gpz_500_s_ex_500_e5-e10/98-04/picture/fuel_tap_repair_kit/

https://www.gpzzone.co.uk/acatalog/gpz500sFuel_Tap_and_Tank.html


I would also hammerite the bottom of the tank whilst its off as this area is prone to corrosion

** you can spray the frame with the engine still in but its a lot easier with the engine out
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 12:06 - 24 Oct 2016    Post subject: Re: Winter maintenance and frame work, ideas needed plz... Reply with quote

Chris45 wrote:
1. The frame is beginning to suffer from rot, all over. I don't mind spending hours to refurb and restore as far as practical, but don't have a clue where to start.


First of all, if you can 'see' rust on the frame, there is more where you cant see it. Start picking off panels, you start chasing more and more rust, and what you have is not a quick 'touch up' job but a full 'ground up' job.

Next; trying to patch in and touch up areas of a frame will often make the patches more 'obviouse' by thier shininess in comparison to bits not touched.

Then; getting down to the bare bones; tackling the job with rotary wires and sandpaper is a pita of wire splinters, mess and grazed knuckles trying to get in between the pipes and brackets and do all the nooks and crannies.....

Post prep paint is small potatoes by comparison, and you can usually get a good enough finish with a pot and brush or a rattle can, compressor and pot may be a little over kill.

Paints not cheap, though, and if you are going to do it, may as well do it properly and get most for the effort; which prompts ground up rather than patch again.

And that begs suggestion of commercial ShotBlast, chem dip and powder coat, WHICH these days can be almost as cheap as a pot of Smoothrite and a paint brush!!! Place local to me will do a motorbike frame, 'from' £45 last time I looked; swinger 'from' £20, then you start adding piece parts, like stands and brackets at £5 a pop, until you fill enough card-board boxes to do a 'batch' deal on, and total is likely to be somewhere £50 either side of £150.

BUT, does look good; does last long, and DOES save a hell of a lot of rotary wire splinters, skinned knuckles and 'mess'... tends to beg a more demanding standard in rebuild when you start to bolt tattier looking panels and stuff to the new shiney, though...... and job can start to snowball a bit from a quick 'tidy up' into a near concourse show build!

Personally? On a GPz500s, that's never going to be particularly valuable, and likely hiding a lot under its panels by now....

I would either bite the bullet and plan a full ground up, and do the job 'once' and forever.. if I loved the thing enough and had any notion of hanging on to it long term to get the value from it.

OR, I would do an oily-rag, 'tidy up'; least disturbance, least effort, least cost; and not even try and disguise attentions, and slap silver smooth rite over nibbed back frame rust and stuff, 'just' to keep it at bay and make it a bit 'fresher', and extend service life another year or so.

Or something else; like live with as is or punt on! IS it a bike that warrants major attention / effort / money being chucked at it?
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 12:29 - 24 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't bother doing it yourself. You should be able to get it blasted and powder coated for ~£100.

You get a better finish and save hours. Once you price in materials it won't cost much more.
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 13:04 - 24 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

there was surprisingly little rot on my '91 gpz frame, for the rust that was there I sanded down until the rust was gone, spread some 'rust converter' on it, cleaned it off after a few hours then painted it with Hammerite rust inhibitor paint. No idea on longevity of the tart up as not got it back on the road yet as doing the bodywork now and a few other bits
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Chris45
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PostPosted: 18:10 - 24 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

First up - thanks for all the replies. Am gonna print them out and use them as reference. Second up - yeah, my gpz has been looked after in my ownership (8 years), always dry stored, however she is starting to look a bit shabby. I intend to remove the tank, panels, radiator, and fairing. Should give me a good idea of the extent of work needed. Also have plenty of time to do the work, Dec/Jan and possibly feb. But I'm not going for the shot blast method, soz, cos I aint that mechanically competant. Reckon if I could treat all the corroded frame parts by rubbing down to bare metal, red oxide, then a spray finish, that would be good enough. Aint looking for a mint finish just a decent looking bike, which is all it is. Any advice on spray paints, manufacturers please guys. Am hoping to get everything ready and will deffo send some phot's as the work progresses. Thanks for all your suggestions and advice, including the fuel tap leak. Am gonna order those parts today.
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Azoth
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PostPosted: 18:24 - 24 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris45 wrote:
First up - thanks for all the replies. Am gonna print them out and use them as reference. Second up - yeah, my gpz has been looked after in my ownership (8 years), always dry stored, however she is starting to look a bit shabby. I intend to remove the tank, panels, radiator, and fairing. Should give me a good idea of the extent of work needed. Also have plenty of time to do the work, Dec/Jan and possibly feb. But I'm not going for the shot blast method, soz, cos I aint that mechanically competant. Reckon if I could treat all the corroded frame parts by rubbing down to bare metal, red oxide, then a spray finish, that would be good enough. Aint looking for a mint finish just a decent looking bike, which is all it is. Any advice on spray paints, manufacturers please guys. Am hoping to get everything ready and will deffo send some phot's as the work progresses. Thanks for all your suggestions and advice, including the fuel tap leak. Am gonna order those parts today.


You have your work cut out for you, but at least you won't lack for something to do. I suggest buying a wire drill brush. You can get some of the rust off with wet-and-dry, but when it comes to the frame, you need to take it right back to bare metal, and that's a lot of rubbing. Never spray over rust - it will just incubate more rust. With a wire drill brush, you don't press the brush onto the rust, you just let it rotate over it, and after a few minutes you get the bare metal, which you can then prime or rattlecan or Hammerite.

Regarding your fuel tap, I wouldn't bother buying a repair kit for it. The Kawasaki repair kits for them cost a lot, and so do replacement taps. Not really worth it in relation to the value of the bike. You have better options:

1) Try to repair it using 'other materials' - check Youtube for a video by Ichiban Moto.
2) Buy a used but working vacuum fuel tap from a different bike. I think there's a Suzuki one that's a perfect match but I can't remember which one - you'll need to check the GPZ or EX500 forums for advice on this.
3) Throw it away, throw away the vacuum hose and put in an old-school on-off-res tap, and just remember to turn it off when you park up your bike.
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 09:42 - 25 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

gpz repair kits for fuel tap (diaphragm etc) are about £10 on ebay for gen 1, not sure how much for later,.


I used hammerite 'straight to rust' spray on my frame

I don't have a before the rust pic but this is the frame mostly done
https://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y109/Stevie_J/14292238_10153692832280810_5569473529680987088_n_zps2yogcsks.jpg
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Chris45
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Joined: 23 Oct 2016
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PostPosted: 17:53 - 25 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
gpz repair kits for fuel tap (diaphragm etc) are about £10 on ebay for gen 1, not sure how much for later,.


I used hammerite 'straight to rust' spray on my frame

I don't have a before the rust pic but this is the frame mostly done


The previous owner told me he had put a replacement fuel tap on, so I'm going with the idea of a repair kit, thanks.

Thanks too for the idea of using Hammerite, I'll deffo check it out.

Can anyone advise on whether it is better to paint the various parts of the frame requiring treatment, or use a spray can? I want a good finish that looks the part, as the bike will also be getting a thorough clean and polish to finish. Also, any recommendations on the gloss black to use for the frame please? Just not sure about the quality of paints and best methods to use. Thanks again every1, all your help is deffo gonna be used.
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Azoth
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PostPosted: 18:23 - 25 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris45 wrote:


Can anyone advise on whether it is better to paint the various parts of the frame requiring treatment, or use a spray can? I want a good finish that looks the part, as the bike will also be getting a thorough clean and polish to finish.


If you put some rust converter product over rust, or paint over rust with anti-rust paint, the question is redundant, as the end-result will look absolutely terrible. I have some pictures somewhere that demonstrate this. Painting over 'stabilised' rust looks exactly like you've painted over rust.

You want a clean, level, professional-looking finish on the parts of your bike that are visible from the outside. It doesn't matter so much about the parts that can't be seen until you dismantle the bike. Those external frame areas have to be taken right back to bare metal, primed and painted if you don't want them to look like you've daubed paint over rust.

Rattle-can black being matt or gloss is more about the distance you hold the can away from the area being sprayed, than what it says on the tin. Whatever you use, you should apply a couple of coats of petrol-resistant clear lacquer on top.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 25 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris45 wrote:
I'm not going for the shot blast method, soz, cos I aint that mechanically competant.


People aren't suggesting you blast it yourself, just strip it down to a bare frame and send it off for blasting, or blasting and powder coating.

The people recommending this are people who would not normally contemplate sending out for any work whatsoever. The reason it's worth it in this case is that the cost of DIYing it ends up being quite high. Once you've bought wire wheels, sandpaper, rust converter products, paint it gets very expensive. Even more so when you have to buy half the stuff again after cocking the job up.

The brakes probably need a proper strip and clean, including popping out the pistons and scraping out corrosion from behind the seals.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 11:11 - 26 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris45 wrote:
I'm not going for the shot blast method, soz, cos I aint that mechanically competant.
Robby wrote:
People aren't suggesting you blast it yourself, just strip it down to a bare frame and send it off for blasting, or blasting and powder coating.


I assumed it was the mechanics of actually stripping down to the frame that's your worry, rather than how to sand-blast.....

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/10449902_815290851829167_6354498161609224302_n.jpg?oh=00d099d5687e07b213a04d3cddbc8f46&oe=589431CA

Seven-fifty frame, attacked with rotary wires, & brush painted with smoothrite.

£25 for the paint; £15 for the rotary wires. £10 for brushes. £15 for thinners, and gawd knows how much else totalled up in 'odds and sods'.

Three weeks worth of getting covered in crap, and pulling rotary wire twist splinters out of cloths, hair, fingers, socks, feet etc.

https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Strip%20Down/imag0714.jpg

Snowie attacking her Pup's frame with the rotary.....

https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Frame/imag0952.jpg

Some weeks later..... AMAZING result, eh?..... after she'd given up on picking rotary wire splinters out of her hair and other parts of her anatomy, and we'd farmed the job out to a local Sand-Blaster for £20!

https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Frame/imag1001.jpghttps://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Frame/imag1049.jpg

She rattle canned it with primer


Then gloss

Finish is pretty good; and difference between rattle can and compressor & pot, if the prep has been done to that sort of standard is pretty small.

https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/teflons-torque/030_035_Yamaha_DT/imag2188.jpg

My Yammie frame, before I got racked off trying to get into all the bracketry With the rotary wire...

https://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/teflons-torque/030_035_Yamaha_DT/imag2259.jpg

All back after being farmed out to the Powder coaters for blast, dip & coat, for £125.....

Quality of finish is just in a different legue; and the savings in 'hassle' is ENORMOUSE.

BUT.... job needs that bullet bitten, and the bike stripped back to the frame either which way.

Mechanics aren't all that demanding; taking out large 'chunks' of bike, following the instructions in the Haynes, its easier than trying to put together a flatPack wardrobe!

And it IS the 'easier' way about in the long run; saving so much fiff and faff trying to work in and around stuff still in situ, and trying to patch and get a good finish without hitting ignition coils or regulators, or wiring looms with the rotary wire, or getting paint on what you want and not on anything else!!

Whether you choose pot and brush, rattle can or compressor & pot, or farm the lot out for blast and coat.....

You will ALWAYS get a better result, biting that bullet and taking it down to the frame....

AND in that doing; you will be more inclined to pay attension to the chunks you pull off it, and tackle and overhaul brake calipers and fit new headrace bearings, or overhaul your monoshock linkage, and when it goes back together have something that works 'better' as well as just 'looks' better.
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Chris45
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Joined: 23 Oct 2016
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PostPosted: 12:50 - 26 Oct 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I assumed it was the mechanics of actually stripping down to the frame that's your worry, rather than how to sand-blast.....
Thumbs Up

mega thanks to all the replies, help and advice so far. am feeling more confident about carrying out the work ahead. If I take my time over the winter I reckon my gpz will be good for at least another eight years of owneship. thnx every1 and I'll keep you updated as work progresses.

Chris
Inverness.
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