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Winterizing a VFR800 2000

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skulkerboyo
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 01 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 09:29 - 04 Nov 2016    Post subject: Winterizing a VFR800 2000 Reply with quote
Tips?

She's gonna do her first winter with me.

normally I just spray any exposed casings and cables with acf-50 on more naked bikes and be done with it.

Exhaust looks ok but I reckon another year on her and that might get eaten through.

What's the drill gents?
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Suzuki GP100, NSR250, RGV250, CB400, CB250, CB400, FZX750, FZR750, Honda Bros, Kymco zing 150 (was living in Asia for that one), NTV650, Bandit 600, ZZR600e, Transalp Xl600V.
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ZebraDriver
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 13 Feb 2011
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PostPosted: 11:31 - 04 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
A Drill is pistol shaped and can be corded or cordless. Very useful for making holes in things!
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tom_e
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 27 Feb 2016
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PostPosted: 11:35 - 04 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
Give it a good clean, grease everything up and then give it an ACF50 bath then don't touch it until spring.
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NJD
World Chat Champion



Joined: 11 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 12:34 - 04 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
tom_e wrote:
don't touch it until spring.


I think he's planning to ride it.

skulkerboyo wrote:
What's the drill gents?


Well, if you're a lady I can show you a drill. But we all know females don't use the internet and ride bikes. Pictures.

..

Looking at the VFR800 on google, because don't own one, I'd say that the mud guard that doesn't extend all the way down combined with the gap in the fairing that leads directly onto the downpipes meaning road salt and crap will spray directly onto them is genuis. So a more than generous coating of ACF-50 in that area I'd say. Get the fairings of and spray under them I'd imagine.

Besides that make sure your chain is oiled and controls are greased and in working order. Check your electrics pre ride daily and you should be good to go. You'll son find out any little kinks when they start putting road salt down.
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tom_e
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 27 Feb 2016
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PostPosted: 13:35 - 04 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
NJD wrote:
tom_e wrote:
don't touch it until spring.


I think he's planning to ride it.


I was waiting for someone to say it Thumbs Up

Let me clarify, bathe it in ACF50 then don't do any other cleaning until spring apart from keeping on top of the chain. Give it a rinse with plain water if you must but apart from that the ACF50 will happily sit between the crud and metal keeping corrosion away all winter long.
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Itchy
Super Spammer



Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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PostPosted: 09:56 - 05 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
You could always slather the thing exposed parts in grease. It's a messy but effective way to keep the salt out. Ross used to do it on his dispatch bike all the time.

Then come Spring rinse it with a powerful degreaser.

It makes your bike look extremely ugly though
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 05 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
Pay particular attention to the feed pipes to the oil cooler.

Also the chain adjuster. When you adjust it, apply oil to the join with the swingarm and loosen it first. Take it all the way round then back again.

Believe me, unseizing one of these is no job for the faint hearted. The main nut on the stub axle alone is done up to 140 ft/lb.
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ADSrox0r
World Chat Champion



Joined: 23 Oct 2012
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PostPosted: 22:31 - 05 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
stinkwheel wrote:
Pay particular attention to the feed pipes to the oil cooler.



This. The rubber covers are notorious for hiding corrosion.
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UncleFester
World Chat Champion



Joined: 30 Jun 2013
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PostPosted: 08:21 - 06 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
ADSrox0r wrote:
stinkwheel wrote:
Pay particular attention to the feed pipes to the oil cooler.



This. The rubber covers are notorious for hiding corrosion.


The oil cooler pipes are particularly prone to corrosion and if they split / blow out during use, you'll be doing the power wiggle down the road as the oil hits the rear tyre.

From memory, the one i had was ok but i changed the oil feed pipes, the oil cooler, the downpipes ( exhaust collecter was a mess ) but do check the downpipes / collector box as it may just be the heatshield that's scabbby, not the collector box itself. I also had the instrument binnacle out and silicon greased the circuit 'board' behind the clocks.

There is an inspection cover under the headlight cowl that falls out and when it does ( it's a 4 quid part ) it lets more crap into the area behind the clocks / fairing.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 09:36 - 06 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
UncleBFester wrote:
I also had the instrument binnacle out and silicon greased the circuit 'board' behind the clocks.


Good point. ACF50 would probably be fine here also. It's rated for use on aviation electrics.

Although if the whole dash is still working on a 1st gen 800, I'll be impressed.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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UncleFester
World Chat Champion



Joined: 30 Jun 2013
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PostPosted: 07:33 - 07 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
stinkwheel wrote:
UncleBFester wrote:
I also had the instrument binnacle out and silicon greased the circuit 'board' behind the clocks.


Good point. ACF50 would probably be fine here also. It's rated for use on aviation electrics.

Although if the whole dash is still working on a 1st gen 800, I'll be impressed.


Mine wasn't when i got it - all the lower tracks were corroded and that inspection cover was missing from the beneath the headlight.

Circuit boards in good nick are rare and from Honda are scandalously expensive if you can even find them.
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ADSrox0r
World Chat Champion



Joined: 23 Oct 2012
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PostPosted: 08:44 - 07 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
The tracks on the board are massive though so even a cack handed gorilla can blob weld with a soldering iron to repair it.
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skulkerboyo
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 01 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 09:09 - 08 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
Solid advice guys - thanks though I think the preferred thing will be to pick up a cheap NTV or other honda with long MOT ASAP.

It's gonna be a cold one this year and they've already gritted the roads round by me .. boooooo

Will have to clean her up this weekend now. Boooooo!
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Suzuki GP100, NSR250, RGV250, CB400, CB250, CB400, FZX750, FZR750, Honda Bros, Kymco zing 150 (was living in Asia for that one), NTV650, Bandit 600, ZZR600e, Transalp Xl600V.
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arry
Super Spammer



Joined: 03 Jan 2009
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PostPosted: 15:17 - 08 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
stinkwheel wrote:

Also the chain adjuster. When you adjust it, apply oil to the join with the swingarm and loosen it first. Take it all the way round then back again.

Believe me, unseizing one of these is no job for the faint hearted. The main nut on the stub axle alone is done up to 140 ft/lb.


Definitely. I'd adjust the chain on my old Sprint monthly regardless of whether it went anywhere or needed doing, just to keep the adjuster free.
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