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danspratt90
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 24 Nov 2016    Post subject: Rev limiting issue Reply with quote

I have a Derbi Mulhacen 125, 15k miles 2012. It has a rev limiter set at 11,500 and will easily do that in neutral or with the clutch pulled in. But under load on the road its as though the limit is reduced to 10,300 - 10,500. Can anyone speculate as to why its doing this?

Thanks
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 20:12 - 24 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Load
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danspratt90
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 24 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I should add, it didn't always do this.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 20:22 - 24 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Increased load.
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Old Git Racing
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PostPosted: 23:20 - 24 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Powerband is worn out, put a new red one in.

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andys675
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PostPosted: 14:06 - 25 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

someone has stolen the platinum out of your spark plug
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 14:29 - 25 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

What happens when you hit that limit in neutral, and while under load?

Chain is slack.
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danspratt90
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PostPosted: 15:56 - 25 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

@andys675 its a 4 stroke.

@Rogerborg hitting the limit in neutral happens exactly as you would expect it to, the revs rise linearly up to the red line of 11,500 and stay there. But when in gear the bike will start coughing and spluttering at 9,500 like im rapidly getting on and off the throttle. But will slowly make its away to 10,300 and not go any higher.

Its smooth and totally normal at revs under 9000.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 16:51 - 25 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dirt/water in fuel? Clogged filter? Stuck choke?
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 18:06 - 25 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why do you want to rev it to 11500 through the gears under load anyway? There'll be fuck all power after five figures, so you'll go slower, probably alot slower if you bend a valve or throw a rod.

Also forgetting specific rpm numbers, go and have a think about how an engine works and breathes both under load and with no load on it.

If you think about cylinder filling, dynamic compression ratio, and gas flow through the engine, then it should be pretty obvious to you why the maximum rpm the motor will reach is different between no load revving and full load acceleration.

If you don't understand this, you shouldn't be working on bikes or worrying about how they run IMO.
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danspratt90
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PostPosted: 20:25 - 25 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

An explanation of why to shift at the redline:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZBqb0ZJSwU

My bike had power after 10k when I first got it.

Vehicles have red lines for the engine own safety, it would have a lower red line if 11,500 was unsuitable.

The engines power would be terrible all through the rev range if it had a bent valve.

"If you think about cylinder filling, dynamic compression ratio, and gas flow through the engine" I did not make this engine. i would hope the designer of the engine would have thought about that. An engine should reach its designed red line regardless of load.

It has an auto choke, which turns off when warm (signaled by a drop in idle speed).

Fuel is fresh, and flow is fine through the pet cock.

A video would probably be best to show the problem, but I dont have any kind of action cam...
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:07 - 25 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

It might be that with no load the engine revs so quickly that the limiter is not killing the spark/injectors fast enough once it senses the cutoff rpm.

There's no good reason to rev the engine to the limiter with no load on it. It's a good way to break something.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 25 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

The biggest problem with the bike will be the abuse the owners giving it if you carry on revving the tits of it all the way to redline in neutral, what's the point?

Just get on and ride the bloody thing.
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danspratt90
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PostPosted: 23:02 - 25 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont understand why you think that i just rev it to the red line in neutral on the regular. Its purely for testing purposes.

you all have plenty of things to say about how to treat the bike and no suggestions on what it might actually be.

"Just get on and ride the bloody thing." Yeah i would love to, if it didnt have a very unsettling cutting in and out at high rpm!
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 23:45 - 25 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

danspratt90 wrote:
I dont understand why you think that i just rev it to the red line in neutral on the regular. Its purely for testing purposes.

you all have plenty of things to say about how to treat the bike and no suggestions on what it might actually be.

"Just get on and ride the bloody thing." Yeah i would love to, if it didnt have a very unsettling cutting in and out at high rpm!


RhynoCZ wrote:
Dirt/water in fuel? Clogged filter? Stuck choke?


Can you rev the engine to the limiter in the first gear? If you can, then it's completely fine. IF you want to rev the engine to the top at the top gear or even the 5th, 4th (4th, 3rd, if you run a 5 speed box), then you're can to do 2 things, loose some weight OR get the final drive gear ratio shorter.

It could also be electrical, but check the fuel and carb/s first.

FUEL/CARB PROBLEM, put it in gear (2nd) ride it and very slowly add throttle, if it goes to the rev limiter, then you have a problem with mixture/dirt/water in fuel. In the end the air filter and air leaks could be the culprit as well.

ELECTRICAL PROBLEM, coil/s, spark plug/s, lead/s.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 00:01 - 26 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

From Google it says your Derbi makes 15bhp at 9250rpm. The power will be dropping to shit by 10300, and 11500rpm is fantasy land, and or rod bending territory. As others have said the tachometer might not be accurate to 500 or even 1000rpm.

Add that that, you can always rev higher in neutral to the point of fuel or spark cut, or on a bike with no limiter higher than the engine will ever run under load. You don't need good cylinder filling and breathing under no load, but a loaded engine needs to be able breath in and expel enough air to keep up with crank speed. When it can't do this the power drops away and the engine won't pull anymore.

Im not 100% saying that a std Derbi engine is not safely capable of 11500rpm, but a 15bhp 125 peaking at 9250rpm, won't breath well enough to do it.

With tuning and a hairy cam profile you might be able to push the useful power that high up the Rev range, but on a std engine forget it and learn how to change gear.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 00:26 - 26 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

He did more or less say it used to rev all the way.
danspratt90 wrote:
I should add, it didn't always do this.

So what's changed? Crashed? Missed a service? Long lay-off?
Have you recently bought a big coat?

Chasing the redline might be futile but let the boy have his fun.
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uberkron
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PostPosted: 04:42 - 26 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my own meandering experience with 125, limiter above 2nd gear is usually not going to happen. I have found 5th gear is an overdrive that keeps the revs down and torque up so you aren't ragging it in 4th.

If it used to have more power check valve clearances. If they close up it won't rev the same and if they open up it won't rev out.

Give it a service.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 26 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

danspratt90 wrote:
An explanation of why to shift at the redline:

Err... no... title of the clip you lnked is "When To Shift Gears For The Fastest Acceleration". And took me straight back 1/4 century to what I hated about university! Mostly students who had read a lot of books and had a head full of equations, but very little clue where or when to apply it.
danspratt90 wrote:
Vehicles have red lines for the engine own safety, it would have a lower red line if 11,500 was unsuitable.

Again, no they dont have a red line for thier own safety. It's just a pretty bit of paint on the tachometer. It wont 'stop' the engine being reved to destruction.

Even a rev limiter wont 'stop' an engine being revved to destruction, they usually just kill sparks or fuel injection which stops the engine making power at the 'rev limit'.. which stops them makig any more power and reving any higher under thier own steam; BUT engines usually run out of puff log before the rev limiter anyway; the resistance to them sucking in 'charge' that fast is starting to slow them down, and they usually wont rev very much higher than a rev limiter would allow, even with it dissabled.

Engines more often do themselves damage over reved 'off-load'. If you take a bike up to top speed in top gear, and then 'bang down' ie 'engine braking', the bke is driving the engine, rather than the engine driving the bike; and the lower gear you have banged down to, has less reduction, or the crank revs for wheel revs are higher, possibly twice as high, so with bike driving back wheel, back wheel can drive the crank revs up to maybe 2x the 'red-line' revs, where the loads placed on the engines internal gubbins from those rpms CAN see them exceed thier safe loading and start to break up.

Reving the engine to the max 'off-load' e in neutral; engine sucks in and burns large amounts of charge; which releases enough 'energy' to potentially accelerate the bike to 70mph; BUT it has no where to go; there is nothing 'taking' that energy away and doing anthng with it; its just 'heat' . The cooling system is only designed to take away 'excess' heat... not ALL of it, and cooling system usually relies on the bike moving to actually provide a flow of air through the radiator to take even that heat away, which stood still, it doesn't have, so the fan comes on to make a bit of wind... but even THAT isn't enough to make that much wind; it's sized to take away the 'excess' heat an engine might make at idle revs sat at a set of traffic lights.

With that much heat being made by the engine held wide open throttle, reving its tits off against the rev limiter and no where to go, first the cooling system will start boiling its water; THEN valves will start to glow red, and piston crown start to go soft as metal starts to reach furnace temperatures; and eventually something will melt or burn out and break.

Aluminium melts at about 700DegC, Steel melts at around 1300DegC. Instanteniouse combustion temperatures in an engine can be as high as 4-5oooDegC!!! It is 'only' the fact that these teperatures only last fractions of a second, and that metal takes time to heat up, that engines DONT melt in normal use...

NOW, carry on tryng to tell us that you should be able to rev them to this decorative mark on the rev counter, JUST becuase some-one has told you those are the 'safe' revs!!!

danspratt90 wrote:
i would hope the designer of the engine would have thought about that. An engine should reach its designed red line regardless of load.


WHAT?!?!? You really don't understand how an engine 'work' do you?

Engines makes 'force'.. fuel and air burning in the cylinder creates pressure; force per unit area, so the amount of force you get is the pressure x piston area.

"Power" and "Torque" are derivative expressions of 'Force' for which your U-Tube whalla I am sure can provide the full mathmatical proofs, BUT... lets stick to first principles, engines make "FORCE" And its forces that make things move.

Force = Mass x Acceleration. So, engine makes force, bike has mass; applied force makes bike accelerate. BUT 'every action has an equal and oposite reaction'... which in our cae is 'DRAG', which tries to stop the bike accelerating.

SO! Engine makes motive force, bike accelerates, drag tries to stop it. As long as the engine makes more motive force than there is drag , bike will accelerate; but when the drag force is equal to the motive force, bike stops accelerating; when drag force exeeds motive force, bike starts decelerating.

Now, DRAG, the resistance to motion, on a bike, is formed from two things, 'rolling resistance', the 'friction' of wheels turning over tarmac, and 'wind resistace' force of making air move out the way. You can wheel a bike about by hand pretty easily, rollng resistance tends to be negligible', so the bulk of drag tends to be wind resistance, which ufortunately isn't constant it increases with speed, and not in direct proportion, faster you go, more drag you get.

Takes about 3bhp to make a bike shaped body go 30mph. Takes about 9bhp to make same bike shaped body go 60mph, takes about 29bhp to make a bike shaped body go 90mph, takes about 81bhp to make bike shaped body go 120mph. Ie the drag force tripples for every 30mph increase in speed (and over that range that relationship holds pretty true)

SO... you have an engine, makes power, an expression of 'force'. Your engine specifically, in good working order, can make about 15bhp 'peak power', at aprox 10,500rpm. SO, it makes enough force to over come drag up to maybe 70mph. BUT....

https://tyga-performance.com/site/images/tper0007dyno3-eff4f403-a5fc54b8.gif

Probably optimistc power trace for the YZF-R125 engine yours is derived from. NOTE, the engine ONLY delivers 15bhp at peak power crank revs. Above those revs or below those revs, it makes considerably less.

OK, lets go for a ride... first gear, and crack the throttle; in first gear the reduction ratio between crank and back wheel, means you might be able to get up to 30mph if you let the thing rev out to almost 13KRPM. All the way there, you have a surplus of 'force' being delivered by the engine, so it will accelerate briskly to the peak power engine revs, and beyond, as the power the engine's delivering beyond 'peak' is still greater than the reletively small drag force at 30mph.. BUT, whilst it accelerated quite briskly up to 10,000rpm, after that, drag force is increasing more quickly, and power is dropping off sharply, so you get a lot less acceleration and dont go much faster for the effort.....

Engne will still rev 'all the way', BUT, past 10,500rpm, where you have hit the 'peak' power, it's not doing much more accelerating....

So you change 'up'.

NOW, the gear change reduces the motive force by as much as it increases wheel speed; so lets say 2nd gear will take you to maybe 40mph at 13Krpm.... this drops the engine revs back to something around 9K, and back onto that bit of the power curve power is increasing AND you start accelerating again, but with less force, more slowly, but more quickly than you would have trying to hold on to extra revs beyond peak in the lower gear.

Which is why, even for 'fastest' acceleration, you DONT change up at the red line! You change UP as soon after peak power as you can get away with, depending on the gear ratios you have.

OK, carry on, 3rd gear; 4th, 5th, and top. A-N-D, you will get to about 60mph, at maybe 8,500rpm. Engine still has power to be found at higher revs, BUT, not a lot, and the gear reduction in top isn't magnifyng the force for you very much, whilst the drag force is increasing an awful lot for every extra mph you try and go.

SO, the bike will continue to accelerate, slowly, up to it's peak power at 10,500rpm, at about 70mph, BUT, its giving ALL it has to get there. There is no more power for further acceleration.

Red line is still at 11,500rpm... BUT 'under load' Ie actally working against drag, it AINT got the power for frther acceleration, it WONT go no faster, and it WILL NOT rev any higher, under its own steam.... might rev out a bit of you come to an aisting hill that gives you a bit more accelerative force, but the see-saw is balenced, force made = force used, and the rev counter WONT go no further.

Just because the stylists pt that pretty bit of paint at that poit on the dial DOESN'T mean ANYTHING particularly, and certainly NOT that the engine should let alone 'must' always be able to rev that high!!

danspratt90 wrote:
But under load on the road its as though the limit is reduced to 10,300 - 10,500. Can anyone speculate as to why its doing this?


It's hardly speculation, it's 'science'! 10,500spm 'ish' is peak power revs for your engine. Under 'full load' THAT is exactly where you would expect it to 'top out'!

Savvy?

danspratt90 wrote:
My bike had power after 10k when I first got it.


It probably still does.. just not as much as it has at 10K.

May be the thing's buggered... if you have been sat there making furnace temperatures in the cylinder revving the knackers off it on the side stand, you might have managed to erode a valve seat or something, or done other damage that could 'dent' its potential performance; thre 'may' be something wrong with the bike... BUT from what you have said, the bikes doing exactly what it should; and its your ideas that are most likely in error, not the bike.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 14:11 - 26 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

danspratt90 wrote:
An explanation of why to shift at the redline:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZBqb0ZJSwU


Depends on the specific engines power delivery. Some will produce peak power a long way before the red line, some even do it after the red line. Yours has peak power at 9250rpm, so little or no point revving beyond that.

Power in itself is not what gives you umph, it is torque (ie, real torque, not the colloquial way it is talked about as flexibility). Power is just torque x rpm, but the rpm bit is countered by gearing, hence with revving beyond peak torque you can still gain by being in a lower gear.

danspratt90 wrote:
My bike had power after 10k when I first got it.


That is the important bit.

I would suggest the first things to check are the basics such as the air filter, valve clearances, spark plug, etc. The simple service items.

But as it is struggling at high revs, that is the point where fuel consumption has risen. There are things that affect fuel flow. A blocked fuel tank breather is possible, same for a kinked fuel hose or a blocked fuel filter, but I would expect these to get worse with distance (ie, limited fuel flow fine for low revs, but the longer held at high revs the fuel level in the carb drops and the running gets progressively worse.

danspratt90 wrote:
n engine should reach its designed red line regardless of load.


No chance all bikes will manage that. Load is from wind resistance and (to a far smaller extent) rolling resistance. Very easy for the amount of umph available at the red line to be less than is needed in the higher gears.

All the best

Katy
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danspratt90
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PostPosted: 17:32 - 26 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

i would seriously like to know why you all think i rev the nuts off it on the side stand? I have done that a couple time just to see what happens for up to 1 second.

@teflon-mike you have missed the point of my question entirely. what a waste of a post.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 19:07 - 26 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

danspratt90 wrote:
i would seriously like to know why you all think i rev the nuts off it on the side stand? I have done that a couple time just to see what happens for up to 1 second.


And other than this what have you done to check for the problem?

All the best

Katy
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 19:37 - 26 Nov 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

danspratt90 wrote:
i would seriously like to know why you all think i rev the nuts off it on the side stand?


Because you said so. Hitting the limiter IS revving the nuts off it.

Quote:
I have done that a couple time just to see what happens for up to 1 second.


2 seconds at 10,000rpm is 333 cycles so you stopped and started that piston 666 times at full whack without a load on it for no good reason. Take it as criticism or advice if you like but if you ask for opinions you gotta accept everything that gets offered equally.
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