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| danspratt90 |
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 danspratt90 L Plate Warrior
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| WD Forte |
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 WD Forte World Chat Champion

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| danspratt90 |
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 danspratt90 L Plate Warrior
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| jaffa90 |
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 jaffa90 World Chat Champion
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| Old Git Racing |
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 Old Git Racing World Chat Champion
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 andys675 World Chat Champion

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| Rogerborg |
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 Rogerborg nimbA

Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 14:29 - 25 Nov 2016 Post subject: |
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What happens when you hit that limit in neutral, and while under load?
Chain is slack. ____________________ Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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 danspratt90 L Plate Warrior
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| RhynoCZ |
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 RhynoCZ Super Spammer

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| stevo as b4 |
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 stevo as b4 World Chat Champion
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| danspratt90 |
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 danspratt90 L Plate Warrior
Joined: 24 Nov 2016 Karma :  
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 Posted: 20:25 - 25 Nov 2016 Post subject: |
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An explanation of why to shift at the redline:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZBqb0ZJSwU
My bike had power after 10k when I first got it.
Vehicles have red lines for the engine own safety, it would have a lower red line if 11,500 was unsuitable.
The engines power would be terrible all through the rev range if it had a bent valve.
"If you think about cylinder filling, dynamic compression ratio, and gas flow through the engine" I did not make this engine. i would hope the designer of the engine would have thought about that. An engine should reach its designed red line regardless of load.
It has an auto choke, which turns off when warm (signaled by a drop in idle speed).
Fuel is fresh, and flow is fine through the pet cock.
A video would probably be best to show the problem, but I dont have any kind of action cam... |
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| Pete. |
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 Pete. Super Spammer

Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Karma :     
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 Posted: 21:07 - 25 Nov 2016 Post subject: |
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It might be that with no load the engine revs so quickly that the limiter is not killing the spark/injectors fast enough once it senses the cutoff rpm.
There's no good reason to rev the engine to the limiter with no load on it. It's a good way to break something. ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good  |
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| NJD |
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 NJD World Chat Champion

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| danspratt90 |
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 danspratt90 L Plate Warrior
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| RhynoCZ |
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 RhynoCZ Super Spammer

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 Posted: 23:45 - 25 Nov 2016 Post subject: |
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| danspratt90 wrote: | I dont understand why you think that i just rev it to the red line in neutral on the regular. Its purely for testing purposes.
you all have plenty of things to say about how to treat the bike and no suggestions on what it might actually be.
"Just get on and ride the bloody thing." Yeah i would love to, if it didnt have a very unsettling cutting in and out at high rpm! |
| RhynoCZ wrote: | Dirt/water in fuel? Clogged filter? Stuck choke? |
Can you rev the engine to the limiter in the first gear? If you can, then it's completely fine. IF you want to rev the engine to the top at the top gear or even the 5th, 4th (4th, 3rd, if you run a 5 speed box), then you're can to do 2 things, loose some weight OR get the final drive gear ratio shorter.
It could also be electrical, but check the fuel and carb/s first.
FUEL/CARB PROBLEM, put it in gear (2nd) ride it and very slowly add throttle, if it goes to the rev limiter, then you have a problem with mixture/dirt/water in fuel. In the end the air filter and air leaks could be the culprit as well.
ELECTRICAL PROBLEM, coil/s, spark plug/s, lead/s. ____________________ '87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor |
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| stevo as b4 |
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 stevo as b4 World Chat Champion
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| Kawasaki Jimbo |
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 Kawasaki Jimbo World Chat Champion

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| uberkron |
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 uberkron Crazy Courier
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| Teflon-Mike |
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 Teflon-Mike tl;dr

Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 13:48 - 26 Nov 2016 Post subject: |
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| danspratt90 wrote: | An explanation of why to shift at the redline: |
Err... no... title of the clip you lnked is "When To Shift Gears For The Fastest Acceleration". And took me straight back 1/4 century to what I hated about university! Mostly students who had read a lot of books and had a head full of equations, but very little clue where or when to apply it.
| danspratt90 wrote: | Vehicles have red lines for the engine own safety, it would have a lower red line if 11,500 was unsuitable. |
Again, no they dont have a red line for thier own safety. It's just a pretty bit of paint on the tachometer. It wont 'stop' the engine being reved to destruction.
Even a rev limiter wont 'stop' an engine being revved to destruction, they usually just kill sparks or fuel injection which stops the engine making power at the 'rev limit'.. which stops them makig any more power and reving any higher under thier own steam; BUT engines usually run out of puff log before the rev limiter anyway; the resistance to them sucking in 'charge' that fast is starting to slow them down, and they usually wont rev very much higher than a rev limiter would allow, even with it dissabled.
Engines more often do themselves damage over reved 'off-load'. If you take a bike up to top speed in top gear, and then 'bang down' ie 'engine braking', the bke is driving the engine, rather than the engine driving the bike; and the lower gear you have banged down to, has less reduction, or the crank revs for wheel revs are higher, possibly twice as high, so with bike driving back wheel, back wheel can drive the crank revs up to maybe 2x the 'red-line' revs, where the loads placed on the engines internal gubbins from those rpms CAN see them exceed thier safe loading and start to break up.
Reving the engine to the max 'off-load' e in neutral; engine sucks in and burns large amounts of charge; which releases enough 'energy' to potentially accelerate the bike to 70mph; BUT it has no where to go; there is nothing 'taking' that energy away and doing anthng with it; its just 'heat' . The cooling system is only designed to take away 'excess' heat... not ALL of it, and cooling system usually relies on the bike moving to actually provide a flow of air through the radiator to take even that heat away, which stood still, it doesn't have, so the fan comes on to make a bit of wind... but even THAT isn't enough to make that much wind; it's sized to take away the 'excess' heat an engine might make at idle revs sat at a set of traffic lights.
With that much heat being made by the engine held wide open throttle, reving its tits off against the rev limiter and no where to go, first the cooling system will start boiling its water; THEN valves will start to glow red, and piston crown start to go soft as metal starts to reach furnace temperatures; and eventually something will melt or burn out and break.
Aluminium melts at about 700DegC, Steel melts at around 1300DegC. Instanteniouse combustion temperatures in an engine can be as high as 4-5oooDegC!!! It is 'only' the fact that these teperatures only last fractions of a second, and that metal takes time to heat up, that engines DONT melt in normal use...
NOW, carry on tryng to tell us that you should be able to rev them to this decorative mark on the rev counter, JUST becuase some-one has told you those are the 'safe' revs!!!
| danspratt90 wrote: | i would hope the designer of the engine would have thought about that. An engine should reach its designed red line regardless of load. |
WHAT?!?!? You really don't understand how an engine 'work' do you?
Engines makes 'force'.. fuel and air burning in the cylinder creates pressure; force per unit area, so the amount of force you get is the pressure x piston area.
"Power" and "Torque" are derivative expressions of 'Force' for which your U-Tube whalla I am sure can provide the full mathmatical proofs, BUT... lets stick to first principles, engines make "FORCE" And its forces that make things move.
Force = Mass x Acceleration. So, engine makes force, bike has mass; applied force makes bike accelerate. BUT 'every action has an equal and oposite reaction'... which in our cae is 'DRAG', which tries to stop the bike accelerating.
SO! Engine makes motive force, bike accelerates, drag tries to stop it. As long as the engine makes more motive force than there is drag , bike will accelerate; but when the drag force is equal to the motive force, bike stops accelerating; when drag force exeeds motive force, bike starts decelerating.
Now, DRAG, the resistance to motion, on a bike, is formed from two things, 'rolling resistance', the 'friction' of wheels turning over tarmac, and 'wind resistace' force of making air move out the way. You can wheel a bike about by hand pretty easily, rollng resistance tends to be negligible', so the bulk of drag tends to be wind resistance, which ufortunately isn't constant it increases with speed, and not in direct proportion, faster you go, more drag you get.
Takes about 3bhp to make a bike shaped body go 30mph. Takes about 9bhp to make same bike shaped body go 60mph, takes about 29bhp to make a bike shaped body go 90mph, takes about 81bhp to make bike shaped body go 120mph. Ie the drag force tripples for every 30mph increase in speed (and over that range that relationship holds pretty true)
SO... you have an engine, makes power, an expression of 'force'. Your engine specifically, in good working order, can make about 15bhp 'peak power', at aprox 10,500rpm. SO, it makes enough force to over come drag up to maybe 70mph. BUT....
https://tyga-performance.com/site/images/tper0007dyno3-eff4f403-a5fc54b8.gif
Probably optimistc power trace for the YZF-R125 engine yours is derived from. NOTE, the engine ONLY delivers 15bhp at peak power crank revs. Above those revs or below those revs, it makes considerably less.
OK, lets go for a ride... first gear, and crack the throttle; in first gear the reduction ratio between crank and back wheel, means you might be able to get up to 30mph if you let the thing rev out to almost 13KRPM. All the way there, you have a surplus of 'force' being delivered by the engine, so it will accelerate briskly to the peak power engine revs, and beyond, as the power the engine's delivering beyond 'peak' is still greater than the reletively small drag force at 30mph.. BUT, whilst it accelerated quite briskly up to 10,000rpm, after that, drag force is increasing more quickly, and power is dropping off sharply, so you get a lot less acceleration and dont go much faster for the effort.....
Engne will still rev 'all the way', BUT, past 10,500rpm, where you have hit the 'peak' power, it's not doing much more accelerating....
So you change 'up'.
NOW, the gear change reduces the motive force by as much as it increases wheel speed; so lets say 2nd gear will take you to maybe 40mph at 13Krpm.... this drops the engine revs back to something around 9K, and back onto that bit of the power curve power is increasing AND you start accelerating again, but with less force, more slowly, but more quickly than you would have trying to hold on to extra revs beyond peak in the lower gear.
Which is why, even for 'fastest' acceleration, you DONT change up at the red line! You change UP as soon after peak power as you can get away with, depending on the gear ratios you have.
OK, carry on, 3rd gear; 4th, 5th, and top. A-N-D, you will get to about 60mph, at maybe 8,500rpm. Engine still has power to be found at higher revs, BUT, not a lot, and the gear reduction in top isn't magnifyng the force for you very much, whilst the drag force is increasing an awful lot for every extra mph you try and go.
SO, the bike will continue to accelerate, slowly, up to it's peak power at 10,500rpm, at about 70mph, BUT, its giving ALL it has to get there. There is no more power for further acceleration.
Red line is still at 11,500rpm... BUT 'under load' Ie actally working against drag, it AINT got the power for frther acceleration, it WONT go no faster, and it WILL NOT rev any higher, under its own steam.... might rev out a bit of you come to an aisting hill that gives you a bit more accelerative force, but the see-saw is balenced, force made = force used, and the rev counter WONT go no further.
Just because the stylists pt that pretty bit of paint at that poit on the dial DOESN'T mean ANYTHING particularly, and certainly NOT that the engine should let alone 'must' always be able to rev that high!!
| danspratt90 wrote: | But under load on the road its as though the limit is reduced to 10,300 - 10,500. Can anyone speculate as to why its doing this? |
It's hardly speculation, it's 'science'! 10,500spm 'ish' is peak power revs for your engine. Under 'full load' THAT is exactly where you would expect it to 'top out'!
Savvy?
| danspratt90 wrote: | My bike had power after 10k when I first got it. |
It probably still does.. just not as much as it has at 10K.
May be the thing's buggered... if you have been sat there making furnace temperatures in the cylinder revving the knackers off it on the side stand, you might have managed to erode a valve seat or something, or done other damage that could 'dent' its potential performance; thre 'may' be something wrong with the bike... BUT from what you have said, the bikes doing exactly what it should; and its your ideas that are most likely in error, not the bike. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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| Kickstart |
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 Kickstart The Oracle

Joined: 04 Feb 2002 Karma :     
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 Posted: 14:11 - 26 Nov 2016 Post subject: |
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Depends on the specific engines power delivery. Some will produce peak power a long way before the red line, some even do it after the red line. Yours has peak power at 9250rpm, so little or no point revving beyond that.
Power in itself is not what gives you umph, it is torque (ie, real torque, not the colloquial way it is talked about as flexibility). Power is just torque x rpm, but the rpm bit is countered by gearing, hence with revving beyond peak torque you can still gain by being in a lower gear.
| danspratt90 wrote: | My bike had power after 10k when I first got it. |
That is the important bit.
I would suggest the first things to check are the basics such as the air filter, valve clearances, spark plug, etc. The simple service items.
But as it is struggling at high revs, that is the point where fuel consumption has risen. There are things that affect fuel flow. A blocked fuel tank breather is possible, same for a kinked fuel hose or a blocked fuel filter, but I would expect these to get worse with distance (ie, limited fuel flow fine for low revs, but the longer held at high revs the fuel level in the carb drops and the running gets progressively worse.
| danspratt90 wrote: | n engine should reach its designed red line regardless of load. |
No chance all bikes will manage that. Load is from wind resistance and (to a far smaller extent) rolling resistance. Very easy for the amount of umph available at the red line to be less than is needed in the higher gears.
All the best
Katy ____________________ Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing |
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 danspratt90 L Plate Warrior
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 Kickstart The Oracle

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| Pete. |
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 Pete. Super Spammer

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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 9 years, 82 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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