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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 10:53 - 09 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mad begun the fighting with it after a few failed prints due to the nozzle hitting support and knocking it off the plate -_- any idea why it would be hitting the support, re-levelled the bed multiple times with a feeler gauge, if it's just printing one structure it's fine but when there's multiple it ends up knocking some off.
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 09:01 - 10 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shinigami wrote:
Mad begun the fighting with it after a few failed prints due to the nozzle hitting support and knocking it off the plate -_- any idea why it would be hitting the support, re-levelled the bed multiple times with a feeler gauge, if it's just printing one structure it's fine but when there's multiple it ends up knocking some off.


I had this, I looked into it, and it's generally a cooling/retraction issue.
supports cause a lot of endpoints and these can create peaks if the retraction is a little slow, or the part cooling fan isnt cooling quick enough. You can also help reduce it by using Z-Lift in your slicer software, as this will lift the nozzle when travelling across the print, instead of scraping the surface.
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 10:41 - 11 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pjay wrote:
Shinigami wrote:
Mad begun the fighting with it after a few failed prints due to the nozzle hitting support and knocking it off the plate -_- any idea why it would be hitting the support, re-levelled the bed multiple times with a feeler gauge, if it's just printing one structure it's fine but when there's multiple it ends up knocking some off.


I had this, I looked into it, and it's generally a cooling/retraction issue.
supports cause a lot of endpoints and these can create peaks if the retraction is a little slow, or the part cooling fan isnt cooling quick enough. You can also help reduce it by using Z-Lift in your slicer software, as this will lift the nozzle when travelling across the print, instead of scraping the surface.


having a look at using slic3r instead of cura and see if z lift there works better than in cura as z hop in cura didn't help much. Printed a calibration cube it's it's nearly bang on with current settings, ever so slightly too tall though so that may be linked. not sure how to calibrate the z axis so it's printing the right height yet though.

19.9 ish on x and y and 20.3mm on z on a 20x20x20 cube
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 13:54 - 11 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shinigami wrote:

having a look at using slic3r instead of cura and see if z lift there works better than in cura as z hop in cura didn't help much. Printed a calibration cube it's it's nearly bang on with current settings, ever so slightly too tall though so that may be linked. not sure how to calibrate the z axis so it's printing the right height yet though.

19.9 ish on x and y and 20.3mm on z on a 20x20x20 cube


Your E-Steps shouldn't really be touched when calibrating, they should be at their mathematical optimum, otherwise you will risk the side being out on larger/smaller objects. Belt tightness and extrusion should be the only things you should change to get perfect results. your results might be off on the Z, because you may have set the first layer to over extrude, which is normal. Try a 100mm calibration to ensure the mid size prints are the correct size. That's a much more important thing to do.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2050876 Would be perfect.
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 12:55 - 12 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

i'll give that a print and see whats what, makes sense on the first layer comment, I do have it set as such which would add up. Think I need to re-do the lead screws on the z axis though as thing the left one isn't flexing the middle properly (think it was fastened too low down from factory) which could in fact explain hitting support/items as they mainly occur on the left I think so if it's not moving up at quite the same rate as the right it would hit.

more experimenting to do
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 13:22 - 12 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shinigami wrote:
Think I need to re-do the lead screws on the z axis though as thing the left one isn't flexing the middle properly

Yes, it's important for there to be some movement in that coupler, it's an easy job to reseat the lead screw in it.

Also make sure after each print that the Z is level on both sides, as you can get one side higher/lower than the other on a regular basis. this can cause allsorts of crap prints.
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 13:30 - 12 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pjay wrote:
Shinigami wrote:
Think I need to re-do the lead screws on the z axis though as thing the left one isn't flexing the middle properly

Yes, it's important for there to be some movement in that coupler, it's an easy job to reseat the lead screw in it.

Also make sure after each print that the Z is level on both sides, as you can get one side higher/lower than the other on a regular basis. this can cause allsorts of crap prints.


Found an item on thingiverse for checking that quickly, just a curved tower you just tighten down to on each side
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 13:32 - 12 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

My Anet A8 is printing like a champ.
I also have a Prusa Mk2 and it matches it in every way possible.
The A8 does have an E3D V6 conversion and auto bed levelling, but other than that, it's standard.
http://oi65.tinypic.com/13yeyl0.jpg
http://oi63.tinypic.com/nqwdug.jpg
Beautiful consistency on the print.
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 07:41 - 13 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

the flexible connectors were set completely wrong, now i'm fighting with bed adhesion Laughing used the mrs hair spray on glass and got really good adhesion on a few parts (difficult to remove once done)

switched to sainsburys extra hold as she didn't want me using up her expensive hair spray and getting crap adhesion, may have to grab some of whatever hers is or try glue stick or something
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 08:25 - 13 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shinigami wrote:
i'm fighting with bed adhesion


Sack off the glass, it's old hat. Buy a purpose made build surface and end your woes.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BuildTak-BT08x08-3PK-Printing-Surface-Square/dp/B00MN5X2YG

I use this and have more problems removing prints than them sticking.

My MK2 has PEI, that's also pretty damn great. Glass is shite in comparison.
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 13 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pjay wrote:
Shinigami wrote:
i'm fighting with bed adhesion


Sack off the glass, it's old hat. Buy a purpose made build surface and end your woes.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BuildTak-BT08x08-3PK-Printing-Surface-Square/dp/B00MN5X2YG

I use this and have more problems removing prints than them sticking.

My MK2 has PEI, that's also pretty damn great. Glass is shite in comparison.


how long do those buildtak surfaces last?
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 12:57 - 13 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shinigami wrote:
how long do those buildtak surfaces last?

That all depends on how you treat them.
I have mine sussed now, so this current surface is about 9 months old and nowhere near needing replacement. The first surface lasted me about a week before I tore a chunk out of it though. I have a spare still, as I bought that three pack. The trick is to print ontop of it and not squish down. You can print PLA onto it cold and it sticks great.

The only other thing is that you need to keep it clean, so I use IPA before each print, to make sure the surface is pristine.

I used to spend a packet on glues/sprays/tape, now my ongoing costs are gone, except for the IPA, but that costs about 5 a year and I'm still on my first tin, so it's all cost effective.
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 18:16 - 22 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gave the glass another go instead of buying more things after only just getting it. As the mrs hairspray worked well and the 70p sainsburys one didn't I figured it was an ingredients thing, found 'Insette' hairspray with similar contents to the super expensive shit i nicked off Soph and...it sticks amazingly well, not had a single sign of lift on the last 6 prints, it's also only 1.49 for a 350ml can which will last frikken ages.

I believe it's to do with the main copolymer being vinyl based as it's not on the spray that didn't hold it down

Getting good prints now, next stop is to upgrade the firmware and try and get vibrations down a bit
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 22 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just be careful when you spray it, it's incredibly flammable.
It's best to spray on while the glass is off the bed and yes not all hairspray works, if you find a nice cheap one, stock up Smile
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ajag
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PostPosted: 09:19 - 23 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have no adhesion problems in glass. All I do to it is (when cold) apply a some of elmers glue (purple glue stick) and let it dry for 5 minutes or so before I print. I hardly ever remove it. If needed (bits might come off with the print) I just reapply on top of it. The only time I clean it is when I start feeling bumps on the surface due to applying it too many times.

Shinigami are you sure your bed is properly levelled and your first layer is nicely squished onto the glass?

I just installed this auto-levelling sensor on Friday and it is working great: https://www.facebook.com/Hallon-1801871179844913/ you have to flash to Marlin but they provide a version with everything pre-configured. Just need to set the center on the firmware (if the provided does not center for you) and the Z-offset.

I went for this one because it just plugs to where the regular z-end stop plugs without having to change any wires, nor change the carriage.
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 09:33 - 23 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

ajag wrote:
I have no adhesion problems in glass.

If you are using glue, you are having adhesion problems.

I use PEI and Buildtak surfaces, they need no adhesives as they remove adhesion problems.

Glass is a remnant of days gone by in 3D printing, there is next to no need to use it anymore. With a dedicated build surface, you can run your heated bed at a lower temp too, so your printer is more efficient. I mostly print PLA with the bed off, or at 45 degrees max, if I want a real nice finish on the bottom layer.
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 10:18 - 23 Apr 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

ajag wrote:


Shinigami are you sure your bed is properly levelled and your first layer is nicely squished onto the glass?



I dont get ahesion problems now I'm using insette hairspray, I only need to spray if a print take it off with it and I only spray when cold (i've also printed cover for the end of the cable chain to protect from spray if i can't be bothered removing the glass first)

printers working nicely now and running connected to octopi.
adding a camera this week when it turns up and looking into adding a relay to power on and off. Might get a sensor at some point but I don't think it really needs it tbh
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EricBoss
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PostPosted: 17:57 - 01 May 2018    Post subject: I Like 3D Printing Reply with quote

Hey now this is a topic that needs to be revived.

3D printers have come a long way, especially in pricing.

You can now get quality fdm printers and resin based printers between a few hundred dollars to a couple grand.

Best part, they now have these marketplaces like thingiverse where you can 3d print tons of parts anytime anywhere. As long as you have access to a proper printer I guess. I think Shiftboard may have one for their employees too. In the cafeteria I think.


Last edited by EricBoss on 04:06 - 16 Apr 2019; edited 2 times in total
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Shinigami
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PostPosted: 21:44 - 05 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

revived? it was only last posted on just over a week ago.. Laughing
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 23:05 - 26 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see wanhao have updated the Duplicator i3+ to a mark 2 version now with auto bed leveling .......and its the same price as the old version!! barstuards Laughing still at least I see there is a some custom 3rd party software available now ADV++ that has made PID tuning and step calibration and better leveling setup, 3 user defined pre heat options as well as acceleration,jerk etc all on screen user adjustable options so no more usb leads to the pc required..AND YES it has BL touch meshing for bed leveling auto enabled! I've stopped printing benchys and tat and now its mostly stuff I need thats modelled up on fusion 360 as a good free option. Wink
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 07:59 - 28 May 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just got my Delta back from lending it to a friend. Warned them that after moving it to their place about it'll need calibrating etc. They thought it would just be "pick shape, press print".... they managed 2 or 3 prints before deciding Shapeways etc is a better bet for someone that really can't be arsed.

Now calibrating it all again.
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 22:43 - 20 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do any of you guys/girls use Fusion 360 for the design of your prints? I always used SolidWorks but seeing as Fusion360 is free for home use and work so long as your making under 100k a year I thought I'd give it a go. 6 months in and a change of the fusion 360 types by Autodesk and it now includes the CAM side of things so you can generate CNC programs on it with plenty of post processors to choose from and I mean quite a lot of current CNC systems not just some generic stuff. Lathes, live tooling twin spindle twin turret stuff as well as 3axis and 5 axis milling stuff which just last year would have set you back over 5k-10K and its FREE!!!!

Anyone after having a play with 3d CAD/CAM and wanting to learn...or even if your a machinist already but want to improve have a google for TITANS OF CNC ACADEMY. They have a nifty building blocks training pack online thats how to model things up and program them out from the very basics to advanced stuff in a few stages. its designed with the intent of people being able to self teach at home for free and fill the impending shortage of modern skilled manufacturing jobs that they expect in the next few years, Any of you 3d printing geeks fancy making aerospace stuff in Titanium as a new career then go check it out Smile

P.S. finally had a part on the little Wanhao i3+ fail, well a bearing got noisy so swapped it out for a drylin bush at 1.38 delivered next day from ebay ....it is now quiet again Very Happy
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oldpink
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PostPosted: 14:12 - 22 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Built a Prusia i3 Mk3 at the weekend with my brother
hit a few snags with some of the printed components and had to bodge a couple of bits but its up and working

I'm setting up his older Mk2 so I can prototype some stuff were working on
once I perfect the part he'll then run them off on the Mk3 as its a lot faster

were also ordering the Creality cr-10s pro to do larger parts as it can do 300 x 300 x 400mm
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 08 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

thems were the top printers for home use back in the day. back in the day for 3d printing being no more than last year Laughing Laughing
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oldpink
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PostPosted: 22:10 - 18 Feb 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

got it up and running pretty smoothly now and getting good prints
building a Lack enclosure for when I move to ABS and higher temps and fume extraction as its in the room I work in
Got the LED's and a scrubber fan and I already have the perspex and table to work with and printed the rest of the parts I need and a few bits & bobs for my workbench

I also printed 2" risers for the table feet to give me some head room
and a set of spool spacers to take larger rolls of filament as the black wouldn't fit without them
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