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fluxco
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PostPosted: 17:30 - 07 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just ordered an A8 this morning, I am looking forward to putting it together.

Thanks BillyJ for posting about it!
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 17:55 - 07 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

fluxco wrote:
I just ordered an A8 this morning, I am looking forward to putting it together.

Thanks BillyJ for posting about it!


Buy some igus bearings for the x and y axis, they are pretty cheap, but cancel a lot of noise and give a tighter fit.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282314623915 is for 4, but you need 7 so either buy x2 or buy the pack of 3 he also does.
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fluxco
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 07 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks PJay, I saw a guy on youtube used lithium grease to lube up the standard bearings.

He claimed it made an audible difference.
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fluxco
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 07 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

PJay, can you recommend any sites / shop for your upgrades?

A quick search on Amazon and Ebay for the E3D v6 hotend looks way cheaper (around 16) than specialist retailers (51)

Thanks again.

PS, also bought the Igus bearings like you suggest, from a different ebayer who sold them in pks of 7 for 10.25 delivered.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Igus-Drylin-RJ4JP-01-08-8mm-Linear-Bearing-x-7-Replace-LM8UU-3D-Reprap-Printer/282351981977
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 07 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

fluxco wrote:
PJay, can you recommend any sites / shop for your upgrades?

A quick search on Amazon and Ebay for the E3D v6 hotend looks way cheaper (around 16) than specialist retailers (51)

Thanks again.

PS, also bought the Igus bearings like you suggest, from a different ebayer who sold them in pks of 7 for 10.25 delivered.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Igus-Drylin-RJ4JP-01-08-8mm-Linear-Bearing-x-7-Replace-LM8UU-3D-Reprap-Printer/282351981977


The thing with the E3d ugrade is that you will get a huge difference in quality and setup. The best thing to really do is to buy the original, as if you get the wrong clone (and there are masses of them) you're likely to get a dud that clogs up.
I would just go for the lite version on the official site, they are pretty cheap and superb.
http://e3d-online.com/Lite6-1.75mm-Bowden

That will be all you need in a hotend for quite some time.

Build the kit as it says, but replacing the bearings, then revisit this thread and I will explain the upgraded parts to print off to make use of the upgraded head.
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fluxco
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PostPosted: 21:03 - 07 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

coolio, I will do exactly that.

But before I leave everything well alone, do you recommend upgrading to the skynet v2.2 firmware + 8mm proximity sensor for auto leveling?
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 21:31 - 07 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

fluxco wrote:
coolio, I will do exactly that.

But before I leave everything well alone, do you recommend upgrading to the skynet v2.2 firmware + 8mm proximity sensor for auto leveling?


Yeah I can help with that, I can probably sort you out with the latest version, as I have contact with the guy that writes it.
If you upgrade to ramps in the future, I coded my own firmware for the ramps/autolevel on the A8.

For a Proximity sensor, go for 8mm Capacitive and be prepared to solder a couple of components into the connection to drop the voltage from 12v to 5v.

You should also really get a mosfet to protect the stock board, as the design is not that great and there are reports of damage when using the hotbed for extended prints.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LJC18A3-B-Z-BX-6-36VDC-Capacitive-Proximity-Sensor-3D-Printer-CNC-Level-/162376218687?hash=item25ce60783f:g:SYwAAOSwnHZYjnap

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Anet-A8-A6-A2-3D-Printer-Heated-Bed-MOSFET-Expansion-Module-/122327300770?hash=item1c7b467aa2:g:il8AAOSw5cNYdUyq

Get both from China if you want the same but cheap.
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fluxco
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PostPosted: 21:40 - 07 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks again, I will definitely take you up on that offer.

I recently started looking into Arduino and started using Circuits IO, that's what got me interested in this post.

I think the RAMPS upgrade is worth doing once I get to grips with printing and I am sure I will be grateful I don't have to watch the printing process with a fire extinguisher.

Good shout on the MOSFET, its on my list of upgrades after watching this dude on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MAc2GZp70M
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 07 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah he has pretty much covered all the basic upgrades.
The buildtak surface is great, I use it myself, but I would recommend borosilicate glass. It's a bit more mistake friendly. But that's not important just yet, as the standard surface with some masking tape on works fine and dandy.
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fluxco
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PostPosted: 22:41 - 07 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

coolio!
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ajag
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PostPosted: 10:39 - 14 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Things are getting better. I think this last print came out very well. no issues what so ever and both parts of the skull printed on the first try each. Then my other kid wants another one too so I decide to go ahead and print it but the prints keeps unsticking from the bed. Happened about 5 times last night at different times in the print. I order some other print surface today (the one Jay mentioned) to see if that solves the issue.

I am enjoying it, but it is very fiddly. Seems like it needs to be calibrated after every print (nozzle/bed height)
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Lee Wright
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PostPosted: 12:53 - 25 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm about to start putting together a smartrapcore reprap over the next couple of weeks. Most of the parts are here now and I've been playing with the firmware settings to keep things moving along, got everything talking to simplify3d now and it will run the motors during a 'print'.

Is there any interest in me posting updates in here as I go along? It's relevant to the cheap part of the thread as I'm in about 110 so far with pretty much everything bought, target is 150 max.
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 13:13 - 25 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lee Wright wrote:
Is there any interest in me posting updates in here as I go along?.


Yeah we may as well use this as the general 3D printing thread as there's a few of us interested in the subject.

Did you pay for S3D or *cough* it?
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ajag
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PostPosted: 11:05 - 26 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jay, I am interested in the Skynet firmware. I bought the sensor, which arrived yesterday, so want to give it a go. Do you have a version that is ready to upload to the Anet A8? How did you connect the sensor? I have seen people saying thaht they just plug it to theh mainboard where the Z-stop goes and just works. Is this what you did?

also, is there a way of backing up the existing firmware with the current settings in case anything goes wrong?

I paid for Simplify3D but it is a pain that every slicer calls the settings differently. I have mainly used Cura 15.x, but even Cura 2.4 and simplify call things differently so moving from one to the other fiddly. So far the only plus I have seen from Simplify3D is that I can add supports to the model manually where I want them. I am through trying to print anything with a tail
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 21:26 - 26 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

ajag wrote:
Jay, I am interested in the Skynet firmware. I bought the sensor, which arrived yesterday, so want to give it a go. Do you have a version that is ready to upload to the Anet A8? How did you connect the sensor? I have seen people saying thaht they just plug it to theh mainboard where the Z-stop goes and just works. Is this what you did?

also, is there a way of backing up the existing firmware with the current settings in case anything goes wrong?

I paid for Simplify3D but it is a pain that every slicer calls the settings differently. I have mainly used Cura 15.x, but even Cura 2.4 and simplify call things differently so moving from one to the other fiddly. So far the only plus I have seen from Simplify3D is that I can add supports to the model manually where I want them. I am through trying to print anything with a tail


Latest firmware.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0Jb9SruV4vGWjNrYVpweGdQNUk
I don't think you can get the original firmware as I dont think anet have released it.
It matters not anyhow, as the anet board is marlin compatible, so all you would need do is flash it with a stock marlin firmware and change it from there as required.


For the sensor, you need to wire it to the 12v of the board to work, but cut the signal down to 5v or you will damage the board. The people just using it as stock are living on borrowed time.
Wire as this: https://cdn.instructables.com/FFV/H12Q/IL5FZECH/FFVH12QIL5FZECH.MEDIUM.jpg
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Lee Wright
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PostPosted: 22:14 - 26 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pjay wrote:


Did you pay for S3D or *cough* it?


Scummed it provisionally to compare it with Cura and Pronterface/Slic3r, depending how it compares it may get purchased in the long term although the cost would build me another printer or cnc router...

Spent half an hour deburring and building the Mk8 style extruder today, all seems to be passable apart from the bore of the knurled drive wheel being too large and making it run eccentric when the grub screw is tightened. A single thickness of blue masking tape around the stepper shaft, while not very elegant, has reduced the runout to an acceptable level until I figure a more permanent fix out for it.
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ajag
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PostPosted: 22:31 - 26 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for the information Jay, much appreciated. It is a shame I cannot export the settings/firmware from my printer in case it all goes haywire. I am happy with how it is printing so far and the only reason I want Skynet is for the auto levelling.

The one issue I have is that my bed is warped and even with glass on top it cannot be levelled correctly. The warping is in the centre so the bulldog clips pull it slightly down when clamped on the side. Need to resolve that before anything else. I ordered the Igus bearings though since all of a sudden the bed became difficult to move. I had to lubricate it but the only thing I had handy was chain lube for my bike. I only found my 3-in-1 oil after I used the chain lube. Not planning on running it on that very long although it fixed the issue.
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 23:34 - 26 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Skynet is basically reworked Marlin anyhow. It's pretty well supported and its not hard to configure once you get used to it.
I personally run my own reworked marlin from stock, as I have a Ramps board with autolevel and there wasn't a version out there for the Anet A8.

There really is no need to go back to the factory firmware, it has nothing special in it.

If the bed is becoming hard to move, I would check that the smooth rods are parallel, the bearings should move along them smoothly and unhindered. Remove the belt and check the bed is free, if it's not, fix the problem by squaring the chassis.
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ajag
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PostPosted: 23:52 - 26 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pjay wrote:
Skynet is basically reworked Marlin anyhow. It's pretty well supported and its not hard to configure once you get used to it.
I personally run my own reworked marlin from stock, as I have a Ramps board with autolevel and there wasn't a version out there for the Anet A8.

There really is no need to go back to the factory firmware, it has nothing special in it.

If the bed is becoming hard to move, I would check that the smooth rods are parallel, the bearings should move along them smoothly and unhindered. Remove the belt and check the bed is free, if it's not, fix the problem by squaring the chassis.


The rods and everything else should be fine. I had tested the bed about a week back when I took it apart since I had put the the H frame the wrong way around. Without the belt the bed moved very easily and then when I put the belt it still moved easily but of course some friction from the stepper.

It was weird, because I could feel the friction on the bearings. The same kind of friction when you know something needs lubrication. I put the oil and it all went back to the way it was. I will recheck it though since I have to make some mods to the bed to make it easier to level and deal with the warping. Thank you
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 12:57 - 27 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ebay has this seller doing the A8, which ships from the UK, so no import duty:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332058551638
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Lee Wright
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PostPosted: 00:08 - 01 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the box built tonight (I'm poor at joinery so was waiting for a mate to do it but he's flat out at the minute) and that escalated to getting all the XY built up, motors/pulleys/belts mounted and then spending the best part of three hours banging my head against why it wouldn't home Mad

Homes fine now after a eureka moment, going to set it off on a large print tomorrow to try and "wear in" the rails/bearings as they're absolute shite but seem to be improving slightly with use.

Pictures/video with tomorrows update, I'm hoping to have the XY completely finished and start on the hot end while I'm waiting for the other 8mm rail to turn up for the Z axis.
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G
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PostPosted: 01:12 - 05 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

A new challenger appears...
https://www.imakr.com/en/startt-affordable-3d-printer/1146-startt-3d-printer.html#/model-machine_only

100 - not sure of shipping costs.
Apparently not quite as good as the Anet, but not far off.

Though, still think I'd prefer finding a second hand pre-tweaked one (ie saving all the hassle of assembly Smile ).
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 05 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

For 100 it's fine, but the build volume is a bit small.
Best off paying the extra 50 for the A8, unless you are looking for a small printer.

It's just Prusa i3, so if you need a bunch of spares for your bigger printer, it's a great deal, 5 stepper motors are 50 or thereabouts, then the mainboard and bearings/cabling/extruder/hotend can all be used on other prusa builds, so in all, it's a decent deal.
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G
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PostPosted: 17:48 - 05 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea, after posting I looked at the specs more and it does seem a bit more compact than I'd really want.

They no longer have the A8 for that price in the UK - cheapest now is 250 from someone else. But the company that did have the A8 up has a similar machine for the same sort of price range

There's a used CTC Bizer finishing soon on ebay, tempted to chuck a bid in.

[edit] - Actually, this is very tempting... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Anet-A8-Desktop-3D-Printer-/182477698116

[edit2] Missed both of them as busy with other stuff. Oh well.
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 18:42 - 05 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sometimes they describe them without putting the model in the Title.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291981060679

You're welcome.
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