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Cheap 3D printer

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ajag
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PostPosted: 13:33 - 13 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought mine from Gearbest and did not have to pay a pound more from their stated price. It gets shipped from a UK address so no import duty to me at least.
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 13:38 - 13 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

ajag wrote:
I bought mine from Gearbest and did not have to pay a pound more from their stated price. It gets shipped from a UK address so no import duty to me at least.

They usually ship from China, there are stories of people paying all manner of amounts, some as high as 60 to the courier for customs.
Maybe it's best to clear it with them as to where they will ship from.

Edit:
I have just checked their site, when you go to order, it tells you where the stock is held. At the moment it is in China. They do also have an EU warehouse, so maybe it's best to wait for them to stock there when buying, but maybe they add some extra to the price?
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lukamon
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PostPosted: 14:30 - 13 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

ordered mine from gearbest, their CS has actually been pretty good.

got a full refund on shipping after they advised tax would be higher on the fastest method vs 2nd fastest, so i said i was happy to wait the extra couple days and got a ful (postage) refund Thumbs Up
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 19:17 - 19 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://oi65.tinypic.com/14loaqs.jpg

Here's the quality I have mine putting out at the moment.
I left the imperfections on so as to not cheat, But a little cleaning with a craft knife and it's almost perfect.
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lukamon
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PostPosted: 21:39 - 19 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

my first (left) and second calibration cubes. pretty happy with that Very Happy
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e1/lukamon/DSC_0222_zpszhvcdyi0.jpg
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fluxco
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Joined: 28 Sep 2016
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PostPosted: 18:17 - 21 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have finally made something useful. A bracket to mount the snapped speed sensor for my Translogic (TLS-SS)

I am well chuffed!

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2193325

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s118/cheunky/Honda%20NC30/File_000_zpsxm47yagk.jpeg

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s118/cheunky/Honda%20NC30/File_004_zpsn0vsndq7.jpeg

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s118/cheunky/Honda%20NC30/Translogic%20TLS-SS%20speed%20sensor_zpshy39ogh8.png
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G
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PostPosted: 09:07 - 24 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Second one was also failing to turn up, so got this for 180:
Ebay link.
Was a couple of hours extra driving, but a good lot of extra bits for the 20 over kit price.
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 09:57 - 24 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

G wrote:
Second one was also failing to turn up, so got this for 180:
Ebay link.
Was a couple of hours extra driving, but a good lot of extra bits for the 20 over kit price.


You done got yourself a bargain there chap.
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G
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PostPosted: 00:12 - 26 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

After a good bit of error and some trial, managed to get a few decent prints.

Seems I've got to be very careful with bedheight.
Went a bit too far with the buildtak I'd separately ordered applied and the last spool holder bit stuck a bit TOO well.

Definitely pleased with my purchase - cheers for the info Thumbs Up.
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lukamon
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PostPosted: 11:59 - 26 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm just using masking tape on the bed with 190 / 60 temps, pla prints great for me with a 0.4 first layer Thumbs Up

best thing I've done is grease the bearings with proper linear bearing grease from the cnc machines at work, so now rather than making metal on metal noises, they glide quietly Smile

oh, and I do have one shitty bearing on the z axis, but rather than complain I just ordered some spares for 2 off amazon
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G
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PostPosted: 12:45 - 26 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been using .8mm bottom layer as saw that suggested elsewhere.

Mine came with 'dry bearings' (aka bushings) which seem to be a recommended upgrade.

Had a look at the originals which were included as well and they didn't look amazing as they were.
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fluxco
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PostPosted: 13:07 - 26 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

made a donut for my helmet


http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s118/cheunky/Honda%20NC30/IMG_3255_zpsmh8w1kvj.jpg

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s118/cheunky/Honda%20NC30/IMG_3253_zps6f3tvhoe.jpg
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 14:32 - 26 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

G wrote:
I've been using .8mm bottom layer as saw that suggested elsewhere.

Mine came with 'dry bearings' (aka bushings) which seem to be a recommended upgrade.

Had a look at the originals which were included as well and they didn't look amazing as they were.


Yeah the Igus dry bearings make a hell of a difference in both noise and quality as they tend to be quite tight in comparison and tight is good, as movement always progresses into the print, especially when you are printing at higher speeds. I am settled now at 75mm/sec and get no speed related errors in my prints.
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oldpink
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PostPosted: 16:13 - 28 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

been keeping an eye on this thread as I'm very interested in getting into 3D printing

so the Anet 8 seems to be the one to go for on price and large pool info available
but I have a few questions these ones at 150 - 180 on fleabay etc are they complete kits
is there nothing else to purchase to get it up and running
I've seen a few saying based in Plymouth with a 2 day delivery are they genuine (just looking at G's experience)

and finally a good site to read up on / get info / or download plans so I can have a look at the software etc
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G
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 28 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got messed around by ebay users homeoutlet and trustinchina.

First order said there was an error and tried to blame a warehouse fire or something.
Second one waited for me to request a refund several days after the delivery day.
So for those can't comment specifically I'm afraid. I wouldn't be surprised if they just ordered from gearbest and sold on.


As it turned out, it worked well for me, getting a setup ready-to-go upgraded machine.


The kits do technically come with everything you need to print. However various bits are known to catch fire and so on - mine has a random PC power supply he had sitting replacing the original and upgraded mosfets (though he's only connected up the bed heater one and I haven't been using that). The powersupply especially is known to be poor.
Lots of the upgrade parts you can print yourself - cooler, brackets, etc. Going to print some idler toothed gears tonight (though may splash on metal ones out as some think it's worth it and I'm presuming they're cheap.)
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oldpink
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PostPosted: 16:58 - 28 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah it was trustinchina I seen advertising
the power supply issue ?? is it 12 volt, if so I have a heavy duty bench transformer could that be used

I've had a look at upgrading via printing like braces etc on you tube
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I have become comfortably numb

Theory & hazard 24-may 2016, CBT 8th June 2016, MOD 1 2nd Aug 2016 Mod 2 2nd-Nov 2016 - Current bike CBR 600 RR
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G
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PostPosted: 18:09 - 28 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, it's 12v. So something capable of pumping out a few hundred watts without aforementioned fires should be fine Smile.

My apologies; it wasn't trustinchina, it was ayabright and homeoutlet. I think I may have had asked trustinchina a question and received a very helpful response.
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ajag
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PostPosted: 19:12 - 28 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

oldpink wrote:
yeah it was trustinchina I seen advertising
the power supply issue ?? is it 12 volt, if so I have a heavy duty bench transformer could that be used

I've had a look at upgrading via printing like braces etc on you tube


It should be able to output 30 amps. If that is the case, then you are good to go. I would be surprised if it doesn't but might as well make that clear before you put another power supply that will not be good for it.
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oldpink
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PostPosted: 19:19 - 28 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thumbs Up trustinchina had a few up and said 1 - 2 day delivery at about 180 for the kit
its a heavy duty bench 13.5v supply that I use to power all my telescope gear and runs 7A standard with 9 surge

it will be a couple of weeks before I order as I'm away to london for a bit then I need to go to Amsterdam
but I think I'll be dropping some cash on my return
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Theory & hazard 24-may 2016, CBT 8th June 2016, MOD 1 2nd Aug 2016 Mod 2 2nd-Nov 2016 - Current bike CBR 600 RR
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oldpink
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 28 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

ajag wrote:
It should be able to output 30 amps. If that is the case, then you are good to go. I would be surprised if it doesn't but might as well make that clear before you put another power supply that will not be good for it.


30 Amps is quite a lot of draw ??


edit
thinking about it the extruder & bed will draw a lot of power may have to upgrade my bench supply
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Theory & hazard 24-may 2016, CBT 8th June 2016, MOD 1 2nd Aug 2016 Mod 2 2nd-Nov 2016 - Current bike CBR 600 RR
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 19:40 - 28 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

The PSU issues are not that the PSU is a fire risk (even though they have known to fail), it's that they are not really upto the job when pushing them. This is especially noticeable when printing materials like ABS, where you would want 250degrees at the hotend and 100 Degrees on the bed.
The stock 20A psu takes a good while to come up to temp and is at full whack when maintaining these temps.
That said, I still have the original PSU and it's performing fine, as I tend not to have the bed much over 40 degrees, as most of my printing is in PLA or similar, that can print on unheated beds.
A 30A supply is certainly preferable to the stock 20A though.
The mosfet is a better idea for a safety upgrade, as it diverts the current from the mainboard, which isn't that great at coping with it. That said, it was only the early board revisions that burned out, there have been no recent reports of the boards popping due to overloading the heating circuit, for a while now.

You can always use any PSU that has 12v @ 20A, and there are quite a few people out there that just power the bed from a separate ATX PSU.

I am planning on swapping over to an ATX PSU when and if the stock one gives up. I have purchased a little breakout board to make things easier and to not invalidate the warranty on the PSU.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292057448313

Buying on Ebay for me at least was a breeze, they delivered within a week and I had no issue with them.
The key is cost really, as I didn't have to pay any import, if you order from china, you could get hit. If you buy from within the EU, there is nothing more to pay, so bear this in mind when comparing prices.

The question on if something is genuine or not is a tough one to answer to a beginner. Just ensure the model is Anet A8 and the description specifies that it is (They will always say they are). If there is no mention of the model, but it looks just like an A8, then it's not.
That said, even the ones that are lookalikes are capable printers and would be just as upgradeable and would give any beginner a solid base as an entry into the hobby.

Worst case scenario, you buy a Prusa i3 Clone that looks like another I3 Clone. Best case, you get a Tronxy, which some say are at least as good as the A8.

If you want advice on if a listing is original, ask here, I will try to get replay ASAP.
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G
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PostPosted: 19:42 - 28 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the one that comes with it is a copy of a power supply rated at 350w. 12v @ 7a is only 84w - remember you've got a heater element, multiple stepper motors, fan(s) and if you're running a heated bed, a decent size heating element for that too. And that's before powering the processing stuff.

Should be able to get a PC powersupply for not much, but think better ones more specific to this application also available at reasonable prices.
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oldpink
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PostPosted: 19:58 - 28 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used to run a modified ATX PSU on my scopes before I bought the bench box so thats not an issue
I have a good knowledge of circuit boards and a degree in radio electronics and handy with a soldering iron

but I could do with an uprated bench supply preferably with multiple outputs and voltages

the ones I was looking at had Anet A8 T in the spec's sheet as the model No
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Theory & hazard 24-may 2016, CBT 8th June 2016, MOD 1 2nd Aug 2016 Mod 2 2nd-Nov 2016 - Current bike CBR 600 RR
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 20:08 - 28 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

G wrote:
I think the one that comes with it is a copy of a power supply rated at 350w. 12v @ 7a is only 84w - remember you've got a heater element, multiple stepper motors, fan(s) and if you're running a heated bed, a decent size heating element for that too. And that's before powering the processing stuff.

Should be able to get a PC powersupply for not much, but think better ones more specific to this application also available at reasonable prices.


Mine does output 20A, I've tested it, so they are not all under specced.
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 20:08 - 28 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

oldpink wrote:
the ones I was looking at had Anet A8 T in the spec's sheet as the model No


Yeah that will be fine.
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