I've just got a trailer for my Enfield

[stinkwheel]

Finally taken delivery of my replica PAV trailer. I've decided not to say where from because the guys communications skills were terrible and it's been many months in the arriving.

However. Got it now.

Pav is Czech for peacock and these trailers were made back in the 1950's for fitting as standard to several Eastern block 2-strokes. They are also popular with the Lambretta fraternity. Several Royal Enfield Bullets were supplied to the Indian army with them fitted.

In fact, they still make a version of these in india called an Inder trailer.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/CIMG1620.jpg

Normally you'd need to puzzle out whre to site the hitch. I'm fortunate in that this has already been done, the bike was supplied from the factory with these trailers so I know where the hitch needs to go. I'm just not entirely clear on the fittings to put it there. Here's a factory fitted one.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/20231_original.jpg

Having got it, I now need to assemble the kit, make up the hitch and do the wiring for it. To that end, I've ordered up some alloy box section and some longer top bolts for the shock mounts. Essentially going to make it as two L-shapes of box section that attach to the top shock mount with a brace up to the rear subframe to prevent pivoting. Due to the nature of the hitch, it should only really be pushing or pulling along the bracket, twisting/turning forces will be minimal.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/bracketside.jpg

The end of the trailer is essentially a universal joint. I'll get a bit of steel plate welded to it so I can bolt that accross the short legs of the two 'L's. It'll obstruct the numberplate and taillight when attached but it will have its own plate and light I can plug in. The idea being it'll be pretty simple to attach and remove with a spanner.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/CIMG1622.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/CIMG1621.jpg

If the alloy doesn't work out, I'll just go for a bit of bent steel flatbar instead. I was going for the alloy for lightness but I'm aware it might not be quite as robust. Worth a try
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Copycat73]

different ... just different...

that is all..
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Whatever I post I have no citation and no intention of providing one..
caveat emptor

[c_dug]

Ever ridden with a trailer before?

If so, what's it like? If not, what are you expecting?
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I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[P.]

Dat chain man.

[chickenstrip]

[stinkwheel]

[stinkwheel]

[virus]

[P.]

[stinkwheel]

[stinkwheel]

[virus]

[lingeringstin...]

I've found that my mono wheel trailer tracks fine and is very stable at any speed above about 20. Below that it can sort of feel like you're carrying a wobbly pillion when loaded with camping gear but once you get up to speed you literally don't know it's there, which can be a bit of a danger if you're not paying attention. Extreme potholes can give you a wakeup call if you're not paying attentionm. Feels like somebody grabbing the back of your bike and giving it a shake, but at least a single wheel trailer will always just trail behind you no matter what. I've heard scare stories about two wheel trailers going wonky after a bump or around fast bends but have never had one so I wouldn't know.

Mine was cobbled together badly in a rush and tweaked and modified more later but it's perfectly functional now. Decent clearance is a plus. I've seen trailers become sleds in mud or ground out over humps. Yours looks very nicely designed.

Mine has absolutely no suspension but I run a soggy tyre filled almost entirely with tyre goo and a little water and that sort of acts like a deadblow hammer effect so it doesn't bounce much if I hit a big bump at speed. It might have one good initial hop and then it's planted well on the road again. Works a treat.

The only thing I've found to really be aware of is not to load mine too high because it gets more wonky at low speeds. But if the loading is kept low it's virtually unnoticeable on the road.

People can't believe my wee 280/250-4 tyre has done thousands of miles without exploding but I've never had the least trouble with it. It's a split rim so easy to fix if I have a puncture, which is fairly unlikely, and I've seldom gone over 60mph with it. Got yelled at by a copper once for blatting along too fast in a 50 zone.

I think The Law says you're only allowed to do 50 with a bike trailer anyway and as I generally take back roads this is never much of an issue.

[Feasty]

Looks nice but you'd never get me in one of them, I'd rather stay on the bike thanks....
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Previous: Aprilia Habana Retro 50cc (beauty), Yamaha SR125 (fell apart), Honda XR125 (nippy little commuter), Honda SLR650 (Geewhizz), Yamaha Diversion 900S (Smoooooth) written off courtesy of a stupid escaped horse.
(7 year gap), BMW F650 (Relaxing ride). Aprilia Caponord ETV1000 (Big and bold). Yamaha FZS600 (got me in trouble too quick!).
Current: Yamaha TDM 900 (Comfy, light but big, power when needed).

[pepperami]

[RhynoCZ]

It's nice to see you didn't give up.
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor

[stinkwheel]

Further bracketry mocking up.

I've done this using 30x18mmx1mm aluminium box section.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/CIMG1629.jpg

I'm going to use a slice of solid alloy bar as an insert inside the box section where it's bolted through so it can be tightened right down hard.

One problem is that the top shock mount is the furthest back "solid" piece of bike to bolt to. Everything else is subframe which, while solid enough to mount a pillion seat to, has a certain amount of flex.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/CIMG1631.jpg

My next issue is how to join the bits of box section. They're just gaffa taped in position for now. It would be nice to get them TIG welded up. I'm wondering if the parts could be tacked on along a single edge with them in situ as it is now then the whole lot removed and the rest of the welds done on the bench.

Also not entirely sure how well this box section will weld.

Another option is to through bolt it.

A third option is to rivet it with gusset plates over the joins.

I feel the latter two options will land up going rattly and bendy in quite short order.

I may yet give up on the idea of alloy in favour of stronger and easier to work with (but much heavier) steel.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Itchy]

I was expecting a beer keg like Virus's trailer.
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Spain 2008France 2007Big one 2009 We all die. The goal isn't to live forever, the goal is to create something that will. In the end, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it is worth watching.

[P.]

I was expecting a maintained bike

[The Shaggy D.A.]

[stinkwheel]

[RhynoCZ]

[stinkwheel]

[stinkwheel]

Right. I've sacked off the idea of aluminium.

I made an attempt with flatbar but it was still too bendy so I've gone for 30x30x3mm angle.

I've also bought myself a stick welder. Never used one before, I had a cheapo gassless MIG a while ago which set itself on fire. This is a small inverter welder that does up to 100A. Nvere used stick before so steep learning curve. Spent much of Saturday burning through welding rods and wrecking perfectly good pieces of metal.

So you'll need to excuse the standard of the welds, they are slowly improving. I cut a few in half and I'm happy getting enough penetration.

So. Three pieces of angle.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/DSCN0089.jpg

Weld them together flat and square and cut the corner off.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/DSCN0092.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/DSCN0090.jpg

Couple of bits of flat bar for bracing.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/DSCN0088.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/DSCN0093.jpg

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/DSCN0094.jpg

Now, there is almost nothing straight or symmetrical about this bike. Especially when you get into the realms of the rear subframe which is made of hammered out rupees mixed with elephant dung. I basically eyeballed the bracketry I've done thus far, it'll be as straight as any other bits.

I figure I want the trailer to be square and aligned with the back wheel. So check the wheel is aligned then set the bike up on the stand so it's level in both axis.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/DSCN0098.jpg

Find the centre line of the wheel and tyre using chalk and a straight edge.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/DSCN0096.jpg

Find where plumb centre lies on the hitch by sighting along mark 1 improvised plumb line.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/DSCN0097.jpg

Mark level with a spirit level and that's the angle I need to mount the bracket at.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/DSCN0099.jpg

I'm attaching the bracket to a second piece of angle to facilitate easy mounting/removal. As you can see, the hitch is a tad wonky but the bracket should be true.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/DSCN0100.jpg

Cunning plan for locating the bracket.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/DSCN0102.jpg

Then bolted on. Using bolts.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/DSCN0104.jpg

I attached the trailer and took it for a low speed trundle around the cul-de-sac next door. Entirely uneventful. No pics of it attached yet because the flash is playing up on my camera. Hitch now removed for painting.

You may have noticed the new mudguard too. Plastic trials one. I have another one to join to it to make it long enough.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

Done some bits on the trailer too.

Needed a light so I've gone for a Lucas type 679. The taillight on the bike is totally fucked too so I'm fitting one to that too. Diddy numberplate fits in the gap nicely. Not strictly legal but it's going to take a world champion Dibble to be familiar with C&U regs for motorcycle trailers. It's not strictly legal in various other regards too.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/378bd4ce-b23c-4b8c-a4f7-5b9fb5bc9ada.jpg

Keeping it tidy.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/DSCN0127.jpg

Spunked for a decent connector for the lighting.

https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/DSCN0128.jpg

Surface mount end with cap to go in the side of the numberplate holder on the bike.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/Trailer/DSCN0133.jpg

I'm beginning to agree with the comment virus made above about the bearing block. It doesn't seem chunky enough. It'll do for now but I'm going to look into replacing it with something meatier.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.