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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 13:49 - 01 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

We’re in the process of moving house, the new house will require some work, so I bought myself a 10” table saw, I’m going to replace the table and build it into a bench/cabinet, got to build a shed first though!

I’m marking time at the moment, most of my stuff is packed away, so with nothing to do I thought I’d buy some old hand tools to restore.

My first purchase was an old Stanley No.4 smoothing plane, (not my photo but it’s the same plane):-

https://www.handplane.com/images/StatSheets/Stanley/4/StanleyNo.4Plane3-Big.jpg

This didn’t need much work, a bit of rust removal, some general cleaning and oiling, the two main problems with it were the rear handle was broken and it needed sharpening and setting up.
The handle glued back together easily, so next up was sharpening!
I sharpened the blade using 120 and 240 grit emery paper, mounted on a piece of glass and finished it off by using metal polishing compound on a piece of hardwood, following Paul Sellers method, I haven’t made a leather strop yet but I got it sharp enough and got a good edge on the cap iron!

My second purchase was a 16” wooden jack plane, like this, (not my photo but it’s the same plane):-

https://thumbs2.picclick.com/d/l400/pict/262827047769_/16-Antique-wooden-Jack-Plane-by-Mathiesons-of.jpg

Got it for £16 inc. p&p, It was in need of some TLC.

First thing I did to this was to flatten the bottom, started of with 80 grit sandpaper mounted on glass and went through the grits down to 240. I then checked it for square and finished the process off using the No.4 plane I’d refurbed.
Next up the handle wasn’t secure, I glued it in and for added security put a screw in there!
The cutting edge of the blade on this was not good, had a chip out of one side and was not ground square across the blade.
I bought a pound shop whetstone, got the blade back to square, got rid of the chip and got back to a 25 degree angle, then I followed the same process as before to sharpen it!
It’s all set up now and it works great.

I also managed to get a couple a couple of Stanley ‘Handyman’ No.4 planes, the most expensive was £2.20! Anyway, these are not as well specced as the Stanley No.4, they have plastic handles and there is no adjustment for the frog plate. Having said that once I refurbed them they worked just as well.

I got three old, wooden handled, wood chisels, a ¼ inch, a ½ inch bevelled and a ½ in mortise and gave them a good clean and polish.
The cutting edges and bevels were not good on these, so I invested in one of these:-

https://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee316/paulchapman_photos/Honing/Eclipseguide2.jpg

Got the correct bevels back using my cheap ass whetstone and then sharpened them up!

What have I been doing with these tools, well for practice I’ve been cutting and planing some of the wood burner logs down to perfectly square stock, which is pointless but surprisingly satisfying!

Haven’t got access to my camera at the moment so the photos are all just grabs off the web!
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Ribenapigeon
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PostPosted: 22:06 - 01 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont know why but old planes always seem to have a loose handle. I put a little wood shim under the handle and that seems to sort it.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 01:31 - 02 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ribenapigeon wrote:
I dont know why but old planes always seem to have a loose handle. I put a little wood shim under the handle and that seems to sort it.


Whereas I try to encourage the people selling old box planes to chuck them in the bin. More often than not they've been sat for so long that the wood is riddled with worm, the blades look like they been sat in tidal salt water for 15 years and the wedges tend to be split. Proper pain in the arse to set up nicely.

The No. 4 smoothing planes are a beaut to use and tend to be easy cheap finds at car boot sales.

Sid - get yourself a diamond stone, they are sooo much more convenient and easier to use than oil/wet stones. I have never used a leather strop, work trousers/fore arms work perfectly well (watch out for larger burrs when using your forearm Shocked ).
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ScaredyCat
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PostPosted: 21:51 - 03 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see your flashy planes and raise you a cabinet scraper. Results are looking good

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/188253/_bcf/mowa/woody/cabinetscraper.png

Working my way down the panel and slowly making the joints seamless. Also has a bonus of being rather therapeutic, although generating lots of shavings

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/188253/_bcf/mowa/woody/shavings.png
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 00:44 - 04 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

ScaredyCat wrote:
I see your flashy planes and raise you a cabinet scraper. Results are looking good

Working my way down the panel and slowly making the joints seamless. Also has a bonus of being rather therapeutic, although generating lots of shavings


Mmmmmmmm, shavings! Looks smooth!

Might have to invest in some scrapers, are they any good at removing layers of varnish?
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ScaredyCat
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PostPosted: 01:42 - 04 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suntan Sid wrote:

Might have to invest in some scrapers, are they any good at removing layers of varnish?


Should work fine with varnish. You can get them in various thicknesses, thinner ones being for finer work thicker ones for larger shavings Smile

Word of caution though, it'll get hot, hotter than you'd expect.
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ScaredyCat
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PostPosted: 19:28 - 11 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suntan Sid wrote:
We’re in the process of moving house, the new house will require some work, so I bought myself a 10” table saw, I’m going to replace the table and build it into a bench/cabinet, got to build a shed first though!


Which table saw did you go for? There seems to be so many of the bloody things about ranging from £80 to thousands. Most of the cheap ones appear to have shonky fences but then some of the reviews on more expensive ones say the same too..

What's the advantage of a 10" blade over an 8" one?

I did see a draper one that was 8" but came with an extension leaf and a sliding carriage for cross cuts. Couldn't find any reviews of it at all though.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 10:45 - 15 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ribenapigeon wrote:
I dont know why but old planes always seem to have a loose handle. I put a little wood shim under the handle and that seems to sort it.


The wood shrinks I think.

I tend to cut a couple of mm off of the long retaining bolt.
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ScaredyCat
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PostPosted: 12:15 - 18 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rutlands seem to have a bit of a sale going on https://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+hot-deals+deals if anyone is interested..
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 13:34 - 18 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

ScaredyCat wrote:
Which table saw did you go for? There seems to be so many of the bloody things about ranging from £80 to thousands. Most of the cheap ones appear to have shonky fences but then some of the reviews on more expensive ones say the same too..

What's the advantage of a 10" blade over an 8" one?


Sorry, only just seen this post, moving house got in the way!

I went for this one:-

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/fox-f36-527-10-table-saw-230v/

Didn't pay the Machine Mart price, it came in at £256 inc. P&P.
It's not belt drive but it's all I could justify spending the money on.

The reason I went for the 10" blade, I'm going to build this saw into a cabinet and I will be making my own table, fence etc., to fit over the existing table.
If I use 18mm ply for the new table then make a cross cut sled I would be losing between 30 -36mm of cutting depth.
An 8" blade has a cutting depth 55 - 60mm, the 10" blade has a cutting depth of 80mm, so losing the 36mm isn't too bad!
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ScaredyCat
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 18 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suntan Sid wrote:

I went for this one:-

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/fox-f36-527-10-table-saw-230v/

Didn't pay the Machine Mart price, it came in at £256 inc. P&P.
It's not belt drive but it's all I could justify spending the money on.

The reason I went for the 10" blade, I'm going to build this saw into a cabinet and I will be making my own table, fence etc., to fit over the existing table.
If I use 18mm ply for the new table then make a cross cut sled I would be losing between 30 -36mm of cutting depth.
An 8" blade has a cutting depth 55 - 60mm, the 10" blade has a cutting depth of 80mm, so losing the 36mm isn't too bad!


Ok, makes sense.

Are the t-track/mitre slots 3/4" (19mm) or some random not standard size? How sturdy/accurate is that fence? Those blue pads look like they're extensions, do all 3 pull out?

I'm looking at getting a thicknesser and a table saw (separate units Rolling Eyes Wink ) - that would allow me to prep wood rather than buying PAR that's twisted/warped and with those two I wont need a jointer which, judging by the reviews on all but the >£600, are trash anyway.

Space is limited so a 'lunchbox' style thicknesser and a fairly portable (even if it requires a trolley) table saw are the requirements. Jigs aplenty!
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 22:24 - 18 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

ScaredyCat wrote:
Are the t-track/mitre slots 3/4" (19mm) or some random not standard size?


They're non standard, can't measure them at the moment. it's all packed away. However the T track slots do not match the T track bar well enough, there's a lot of play, so not accurate enough!

ScaredyCat wrote:
How sturdy/accurate is that fence? Those blue pads look like they're extensions, do all 3 pull out?


Out of the box, the fence did not line up with the blade, however, it's easy enough to shim the fence with some thin pieces of card to line it up. TBH, I haven't had chance to use it, much, but I don't think the fence is stable enough, when locked in position it does flex a bit. If I was going to use it as it is I'd make my own fence and eliminate the flex.

Yes the blue parts are extension tables and they pull out to the maximum dimensions in the product description. They are sturdy and if I wasn't putting mine into a cabinet I'd say they were definitely up to the job!

I'm not particularly bothered about it's short comings, I'm confident I can build a lot of them out when I get my workshop sorted!

ScaredyCat wrote:
I'm looking at getting a thicknesser and a table saw (separate units Rolling Eyes Wink ) - that would allow me to prep wood rather than buying PAR that's twisted/warped and with those two I wont need a jointer which, judging by the reviews on all but the >£600, are trash anyway.

Space is limited so a 'lunchbox' style thicknesser and a fairly portable (even if it requires a trolley) table saw are the requirements. Jigs a plenty!


There are videos showing you how to, roughly, joint timber on a table saw, Izzy swan has one, once you've roughed it with the table saw you could hand plane it

One of our ideas for our new house was to have an engineered wooden floor in the hall, I'd like to do it myself, if we do I'll get a thicknesser!
As for a jointer, I've got an electric plane and, when time permits, I'm going to have a go at making a small jointer with it, there are a few videos on youtube showing you how!
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ScaredyCat
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PostPosted: 10:30 - 19 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suntan Sid wrote:

There are videos showing you how to, roughly, joint timber on a table saw, Izzy swan has one, once you've roughed it with the table saw you could hand plane it


As you say you can use a table saw to joint the edges ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrYjc3G1vgo ) you can also use a thicknesser to joint the faces. ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OK5CxqYmUSo. So I figure you could get away without a 'proper' jointer. I'd rather put that money towards other tools.

Suntan Sid wrote:


One of our ideas for our new house was to have an engineered wooden floor in the hall, I'd like to do it myself, if we do I'll get a thicknesser!
As for a jointer, I've got an electric plane and, when time permits, I'm going to have a go at making a small jointer with it, there are a few videos on youtube showing you how!


Yeah, Izzy Swan does one for a hand planer ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3f_8NF74DyI ) but it does seem like a lot of effort and considering that, unless you buy your wood cut to size and it never twists or warps or changes in any way then, you're going to need a thicknesser anyway which will do the jointing job too.

I've also looked at building a cyclone system ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ni1Pf-wwo0 ) to reduce dust. It seems like a very simple and effective way and I can use Henry without clogging him up can be done cheap too ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9w8jXS8Fjh8 )
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owl
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PostPosted: 23:58 - 04 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi wood people, can someone help please.

Missus bought a spice rack and then of course because she possesses (that's a lot of s's) a vagina has decided now that she doesn't like the spice bottles in the rack and wants to use other spice bottles that don't quite fit in the hole (that's what she said).

It's really close, so close that you can force the new bottles in.

So my question is, is there such a. Thing as an affordable circular wood planer that does holes like this?

https://s11.postimg.org/5qqyc8ktf/IMG_5538.jpg

Width needs to increase not depth.

Or do I need to go to work with some sandpaper?

Maybe a drill and some sand paper would work somehow?
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 02:05 - 05 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

vice wrote:
Hi wood people, can someone help please.

Missus bought a spice rack and then of course because she possesses (that's a lot of s's) a vagina has decided now that she doesn't like the spice bottles in the rack and wants to use other spice bottles that don't quite fit in the hole (that's what she said).

It's really close, so close that you can force the new bottles in.

So my question is, is there such a. Thing as an affordable circular wood planer that does holes like this?

https://s11.postimg.org/5qqyc8ktf/IMG_5538.jpg

Width needs to increase not depth.

Or do I need to go to work with some sandpaper?

Maybe a drill and some sand paper would work somehow?


Pics from a US retailer but you can buy this kind of thing at places like B&Q. The small shaft fits in a drill chuck. The paper rounds just slip over the rubber bung and then you tighten down the nut on the end which compresses the bung, increasing its diameter, thus holding the paper in place.

https://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/a0/a04bfb6a-2568-42d6-942e-a7c19b810416_1000.jpg
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zark
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PostPosted: 08:18 - 05 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

^wouldn't that be tricky to keep it circular?

Have you thought about forstner bits? assuming you've got space above to actually get a drill in.
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ScaredyCat
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PostPosted: 14:08 - 05 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wrap sandpaper round one of the spice jars and rotate back and forwards until on of them fits. Anything else is a bit OTT. Forstner bit will leave a hole too.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 22:48 - 05 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

ScaredyCat wrote:
Wrap sandpaper round one of the spice jars and rotate back and forwards until on of them fits. Anything else is a bit OTT. Forstner bit will leave a hole too.


...And you'd have to bung up each hole before you started as they don't like enlarging existing holes.

The sanding stuff I recommended earlier is OK for doing that kind of stuff, so long as you've got a steady hand and don't go at it like a bull in a china shop.

...But ScaredyCat's idea is better, especially if you buy sticky backed sandpaper as it can be stuck to the jar - if you can get jarin hole with paper attached otherwise you'd have to start on an angle and try not to damage the side of the hole too much.
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ScaredyCat
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PostPosted: 23:35 - 19 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I've been playing about and I made a chopping board.. Nothing special but I'm getting there Very Happy Learned a few lessons along the way on this one.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/m6jlwjb0dbfhlp8/board3.jpg?raw=1
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:13 - 20 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's cool/
AMazing how good modern glues are isn't it?

What did you use? Polyurethane?
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 00:56 - 20 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

ScaredyCat wrote:
So I've been playing about and I made a chopping board.. Nothing special but I'm getting there Very Happy Learned a few lessons along the way on this one.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/m6jlwjb0dbfhlp8/board3.jpg?raw=1


Go on then, don't keep us in suspenders, how did you make it?
I'm assuming you used a thicknesser to finish it, or did you go old skool and hand plane it flat?
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ScaredyCat
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PostPosted: 08:29 - 20 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
That's cool/
AMazing how good modern glues are isn't it?


Yeah, the bond is supposed to be stronger than the wood fibre bond. Titebond II is what I've been using.

stinkwheel wrote:
What did you use? Polyurethane?


It's just a light coating of olive oil. I did a huge amount of reading about it. Lots of people saying it'd go rancid. Thing is, the oil will wash out when you wash it, so unless it's never used I don't see the problem. Lots of people saying use mineral oil, not sure about that myself but I might get some to try.


Suntan Sid wrote:
Go on then, don't keep us in suspenders, how did you make it?


Lots of thin bits of wood glued together and clamped. Even with my best efforts they move about quite a bit so you need to push them down onto a flat surface. I just put greaseproof paper on a table and glued them up, pushing down on each bit to try and get it flat. The greaseproof paper stops it sticking to the table. I left it for about 30 minutes then moved it onto another bit because of all the glue squeeze out. Waited another hour and scraped off as much of the glue squeeze out as possible.

Suntan Sid wrote:
I'm assuming you used a thicknesser to finish it, or did you go old skool and hand plane it flat?


I hand planed it, don't have a thicknesser yet and I'm quite keen to keep it hand tools only for as much as I can right now. I have a distinct lack of space and have 'converted' half my office into a workshop. By converted I mean moved stuff out of the way. I can't be generating loads of chippings and dust. Sanding gets done outside, when it stops raining. Using a Henry with HEPA bag to clean up.

Not all of the bits of wood I used were the same size but rather than hand cut them all down I thought it'd be much easier to just hand plane it when the glue dried. That bit worked very well. Once that was done I did 80 grit to remove the remaining, then 100 grit. After that I made the board wet so the grain rose up. Let it dry and used 120 grit on it, then 240. The wetting makes the grain rise, you sand it down so it's smooth again and this stops it going all rough when you wash it.

I'm also in the process of building a table top workbench, the workmate is just too wobbly for anything serious and the lack of clamping power is a real pain, especially when hand planing.

I might make a mallet in the same way, think it might look quite nice. I've made a couple of other bits too, but workshop things. A shooting board and a magnetic saw guide. I made those just to make it feel like I was getting somewhere Smile nice easy things to make to boost confidence.


Really do like the Japanese saws too. Got a Ryoba being delivered tomorrow, they leave an awesome finish. I already have a crosscut one, but I should have got the Ryoba instead, that gives you two cutting surfaces, one crosscut and one rip, on the same blade.
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fatjames
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PostPosted: 14:21 - 20 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a bit more woodworking.
I installed a stair gate for a friend, it had to be screwed into the flats on the banister on one side and the wall on the other. This meant it was higher than she ideally wanted it and left a gap at the bottom. (only about 180mm)

I made this:

https://i.imgur.com/FgP5Ukz.jpg

It was quite simple, ripped some batons then cut to length. Shaping was done with sand paper.
Holes were drilled using a forstner bit in my el cheapo drill press then all glued and clamped together. (titebond II)

I'll do some further sanding and finishing before attaching it to the existing stair gate.

The shape looks bit strange, but the stair gate is adjustable and this extension just matches the profile at the required extension.

You might notice the dowells aren't perfectly lined up, this is purely as I was rushing and didn't bother setting up a fence / stops on the drill press.

I need to make another for the gate at the bottom of the stairs, I'll take a few more photos next time and make sure the dowells are lined up properly.
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 14:41 - 20 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Built this from pallets using a drill, a jigsaw and a handsaw.

https://i.imgur.com/NIaJK9dl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/kVgVAEfl.jpg
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owl
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PostPosted: 13:30 - 21 Sep 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

mentalboy wrote:
vice wrote:
Hi wood people, can someone help please.

Missus bought a spice rack and then of course because she possesses (that's a lot of s's) a vagina has decided now that she doesn't like the spice bottles in the rack and wants to use other spice bottles that don't quite fit in the hole (that's what she said).

It's really close, so close that you can force the new bottles in.

So my question is, is there such a. Thing as an affordable circular wood planer that does holes like this?

Width needs to increase not depth.

Or do I need to go to work with some sandpaper?

Maybe a drill and some sand paper would work somehow?


Pics from a US retailer but you can buy this kind of thing at places like B&Q. The small shaft fits in a drill chuck. The paper rounds just slip over the rubber bung and then you tighten down the nut on the end which compresses the bung, increasing its diameter, thus holding the paper in place.



ended up getting a dremel which I needed for something else, had bits similar to the one's you posted, worked like a charm Thumbs Up
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