No lights after stator change

[dal]

Neg on battery and bike running at 5000rpm mulitmeter set to AC20v

Yellow 11.17
Blue 0000
White 0.52
Black 0.08
They was done with stator unplugged

Yellow 2.08
Blue 0.03
White 10.38
Black 0.02
That was with stator plugged in and at 5000 rpm

[Luckyfish13]

[dal]

So are them numbers looking ok ish for now ?? Il be out in garage again in a bit to do what you said with reg/rec

[Luckyfish13]

Yeah sort of lol...they should really be closer to 0.4...



Set multimeter to lowest ohms and touch the two leads together, does it come up with a reading?
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Daytona 650
XT 125R

[dal]

White/ brown to neg on battery 0.44 . I done it on the battery and not black pin on reg as reading was all over the place .
And pink to neg on battery 00.0
And on black pin 00.1 .....

[Luckyfish13]

Soz mate I think I confused it a bit...

Do the test with the bike running white/brown to black and pink to black
With multimeter on 20 V AC




Then set to 20 ohms and touch red multimeter lead to black multimeter lead...as a totally separate test...just checking the resistance within the actual multimeter...
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Daytona 650
XT 125R

[dal]

ITS FIXED !!!!!!
Changed flywheel back to my original one . The one the guy sent me was about 2mm larger 😖😭 BUT now it is sorted .... thank you everyone on this post that helped me out . cyber beers too you all lol

[neptune8]

I am really pleased for you! Like all faults, it seems obvious when you discover the cause. I have never come across a case personally where a flywheel has lost all its magnetism to the extent that the alternator output is very low.No doubt it can happen. butI think the significant thing here is that the fly wheel you fitted was larger, and thus there was a bigger air gap between the magnets and the stator core. Whilst this whole thing has been a right arse pain to you, I think you may have learned a few things. You now know the basics of using a multimeter, and the value of logic in fault finding. Incidentally, a test lamp can often be more useful than a multimeter. Years ago my mate had a Bedford van. Sometimes it would stop for no apparent reason. There were no sparks at the plugs. The first test I always did was to use the multimeter to check that there was 12 volts at the distributor . There always was, but no spark at the HT coil. After poking about, it would magically come to life. One day when it stopped, and for no apparent reason, I used a test lamp to check for 12 volts at the distrib. Lamp would not light. Tested again at the distrib using a multimeter, and it showed 12 volts! Careful examination of the relevant wire revealled a corroded bit where it cane through the bulkhead. The wire was very high resistance, but would still pass enough current to show [almost] 12 volts on the meter, but nowhere near enough to feed the ignition system. That is why, for some faults, I still use a test lamp. Welcome back to motorcycling.
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Enjoy yourself, its later than you think