Honda nsr 125 r electric problems

[GraemeD]

How's it going everyone I'm new to the forum and I'm afraid I need a bit of help straight away. I'm new to biking also and chose the nsr as my first bike and have been on her for a little less than a year. She was a fixer upper and has had her problems but nothing I couldn't figure out or find on forums like this one. I had her perfect. Until.

She had a couple of smacks a while back when I was in a cocky learner stage and all the fairings on one side got wrecked along with the crank seal and exhaust. I was driving along a week or 2 later and the engine gave up.

I ended up buying a spare bike for parts and replaced the engine with all extras still attached, clocks, indicators, headlights. She was hard on the eye but electronically and mechanically perfect again other than being very smokey when first started (still a small bit too smokey) and the power valve didn't seem to open up around 8000 like it used to, was more like it opened low 3 or 4000rpm

My current issue is a proper head scratcher. After weeks of happy riding I noticed my indicators weren't working when I had the throttle open with the revs over 5000rpm. They work fine when bike is idling. Then I noticed that the neutral light comes on every time I pull the clutch in half way. The indicators got worse to the point where I wasn't comfortable driving in traffic etc so here's what I've tried.

-Brand new battery and flasher relay (under the seat)
-Every other relay I could find under the tank
-The lights/indicators/ horn switch on the handlebars
-Clutch lever/switch
-Installed ignition (was joining wires until I got key cut)
-Inspected every wire I could find, cleaned every connection and found found a few breaks in wires etc including 2 indicator wires melted together. Sorted them all out but from the whole loom I could only find 1 earth grounded to the body, the one on the coil, which was filthy so I cleaned it up and bolted it back on.

The indicators now work better but still far from perfect, the neutral light still comes on when I pull the clutch in and now the power valve isn't working at and the bike is struggling at around 8000rpm when she used to go all the way to red no problem. When I switch on the ignition, there is power to the servo where the little round reel with the 2 cables turns slightly, but when I rev her up, the round reel does nothing.

WHAT HAVE I DONE?? I'm starting to get a bit worried I have tried everything I can think of and info I found online. I hope I'm not the first to have these problems all at once. If anyone can shed any sort of light on this I'd be very grateful. Sorry for the long post. It's been a bumpy road

[Fin]

Regulator/rectifier.

[GraemeD]

Thanks for the quick reply I forgot to mention I changed the regulator too, swapped it for the one on the spare bike. Unless that ones no good either.. Could it be the ecu under the tank in front of the battery? Have a spare one but the wiring needs repair. Cheers.

[piazza]

Karma to a guy on here named Alain

https://www.scribd.com/document/326879269/NSRtips-doc?content=10079&ad_group=Online+Tracking+Link&campaign=Skimbit%2C+Ltd.&keyword=ft500noi&source=impactradius&medium=affiliate&irgwc=1

[GraemeD]

Thank you for the manual! Lots of great info in there, sadly I'm still stuck though couldn't manage to find what the source of the problem could be. Hope Alain sees this he sounds like a wiz

[alains]

did you check the alternator stator ?
you have 9 poles to produce the electricity for the bike and going to the reg/rec and 2 bigger poles producing 200 VAC at 5500 revs to feed a capacity for the ignition . these coils could be faulty even partly . fit a BR9EIX then test the sparks colour as :
- undo the plug then connect the cap
- let the plug lying on the head press the start button for 5 to 8 seconds while observing the sparks
more blueish is the spark and better is the ignition
note : a faulty CDI is very rare
____________________
the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[GraemeD]

Thank you Alain I checked the alternator starter earlier today and it was covered in what looked like limescale the whole casing and all the connections were destroyed in the stuff will try post pic. I swapped it with the alt starter from the original engine and sealed it up nice but still no joy! Really thought that was the end of the problem. I did see a green/red wire sneaking behind the pulley when I had the case off, maybe there is a damaged connection back there but I wasn't sure how to go about removing the pulley so I left it alone. Any other suggestions? She's my day to day motor so very eager to get her sorted was bad enough with the indicators but at least she could do 120km haha. Thanks again.[[/img]

[GraemeD]

Changed the CDI today as a last resort and still no difference. There isn't much of the bike left to check at this stage. Think she's haunted may get the priest out

[alains]

now if you have my doc (NSRtips) look the part about the valves pulley moves (page #10) replace on the last pict 6500 revs by 7500 (because of the difference between CI639 and CI626)
if Something is wrong engine cant run properly
an other possibility is if the pullley cables are reversed
the guide on cylinder side open the valves anti-clockwise and the servo pulley clockwise (check that)
____________________
the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[Robby]

You mentioned only finding one frame earth, and that was on the coil. That doesn't sound right. Find and clean up the other earthing points. It can also be worth running an additional earth strap from the battery negative to the frame.

[GraemeD]

Thanks for the tip Robbie I earthed the battery to the frame with a new wire, the indicators seem to be working better again but still not perfect, the neutral light does not come on anymore unless she's in neutral (think changing the cdi actually fixed this).

Alain there's weird stuff happening with the power valve. The servo is set to low as it should by your tip book, I turn on the key and it just twitches a bit and stays on low. When I turned it to high by hand and switched on the key, it moved to low so I took your advise and swapped the cables on the servo around, turned the key and it did the same thing!

I then noticed that the H marks on the other pulley (the one on the opposite end of the cables) weren't lined up the same on mine as they are on your diagram. If you look closely at the pulley there is a U shaped gap at the very top with a H mark on either side. On your pics, the H mark on the left is the one lined up with the mark. Mine lines up with the H mark on the right.

I tried to adjust it to match yours but there wasn't enough thread on the adjuster so I thought the cable might be stretched. I ended up changing the lot for the parts still attached to old engine (servo, cables and pulley on opposite end), repeated the process and still the same result. The power valve worked perfectly on the old engine every time it ran so the fault can't be in the parts changed. Can it?

We must be getting close to the source at this stage lads does anyone think replacing the loom would be of benefit? Maybe there's something I missed.. Really appreciate all the help I'd hate to have to leave her in with somebody.