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Rear brake pedal sticking down

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Waaarrrggghhh
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 27 Oct 2016
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PostPosted: 13:23 - 25 Dec 2016    Post subject: Rear brake pedal sticking down Reply with quote
I tried spraying WD40 around the pivot point and it's still sticking. Do I need to take the brake pedal off the bike and then spray the insides a bit?

Or is it the brake fluid that's the problem? I suspect it is corrosion causing this as my bike has seen better days, as the previous owner apparently kept it outside without a cover for years it seems..
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jaffa90
World Chat Champion



Joined: 06 Apr 2016
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PostPosted: 14:31 - 25 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
What bike and does the pedal have a return spring attached?
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Waaarrrggghhh
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 27 Oct 2016
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PostPosted: 15:30 - 25 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
yam ybr 125, yes it does.
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Jewlio Rides Again LLB
World Chat Champion



Joined: 06 Oct 2015
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PostPosted: 15:51 - 25 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
Spring is probably stretched.
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jaffa90
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 16:01 - 25 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
Can you push/pull the lever sideways ?
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Rogerborg
nimbA



Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 16:36 - 25 Dec 2016    Post subject: Re: Rear brake pedal sticking down Reply with quote
Waaarrrggghhh wrote:
brake fluid [...] ybr 125

Errr... drum brake worked by a rod. I'd (tentatively) suspect the problem to be at the drum end rather than the pedal.

Undo the adjuster nut at the rear of the rod so that there's no tension in the linkage at all (or just take it right off and treat the nut and rod to a good clean up).

https://i.imgur.com/fFgQl5k.png

Then find which end is sticking, either the pedal end, or the actuator arm on the drum and proceed from there.
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ThatDippyTwat
World Chat Champion



Joined: 07 Aug 2016
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PostPosted: 20:13 - 25 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
The cam clags up really easily with road shit this time of year. If cleaning the rod does nothing, it's stripdown time.

Sounds bad, but it's piss simple, assuming you can use spanners without smashing your own noggin in.

Let us know, and we'll give you pointers. Investing in a can of Brake/Clutch fluid before stripping it would be a good idea. Makes life a metric fuckton easier when cleaning a drum.
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 04:35 - 26 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
ThatDippyTwat wrote:
The cam clags up really easily with road shit this time of year. If cleaning the rod does nothing, it's stripdown time.

Sounds bad, but it's piss simple, assuming you can use spanners without smashing your own noggin in.

Let us know, and we'll give you pointers. Investing in a can of Brake/Clutch fluid before stripping it would be a good idea. Makes life a metric fuckton easier when cleaning a drum.


For a mechanically operated brake??
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ThatDippyTwat
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Joined: 07 Aug 2016
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PostPosted: 08:42 - 26 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
ZRX61 wrote:
ThatDippyTwat wrote:
The cam clags up really easily with road shit this time of year. If cleaning the rod does nothing, it's stripdown time.

Sounds bad, but it's piss simple, assuming you can use spanners without smashing your own noggin in.

Let us know, and we'll give you pointers. Investing in a can of Brake/Clutch fluid before stripping it would be a good idea. Makes life a metric fuckton easier when cleaning a drum.


For a mechanically operated brake??


Brake clutch Cleaner. My bad. Had just unstuck my rear drum and topped my master cylinder up when I wrote it, guess what I had on the brain.
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Pete.
Super Spammer



Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 09:53 - 26 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
Do as Rogers says. Remove the adjuster nut, spring and trunnion and see where it's sticking. Most likely the pivot is seized in the drum backplate. Give it a blast of penetrating oil to loosen it up, remove it from the backplate, clean, grease, re-assemble. Check the steel wear pads on the ends of the brake shoes don't have grooves worn in them.
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Rogerborg
nimbA



Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 13:44 - 26 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
ThatDippyTwat wrote:
Brake clutch Cleaner.

One of my top purchases has been 5 litres of isopropyl alcohol for degunking and cleaning. Try not to get it on anything rubber, and wash it off with water if you do.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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ThatDippyTwat
World Chat Champion



Joined: 07 Aug 2016
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 26 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
Rogerborg wrote:
ThatDippyTwat wrote:
Brake clutch Cleaner.

One of my top purchases has been 5 litres of isopropyl alcohol for degunking and cleaning. Try not to get it on anything rubber, and wash it off with water if you do.


Not sure if you can buy it as a consumer, but Action Can do a shit-hot Solvent that rips through, well, anything I've tried it on. Years of Road crud, grease off the chain, you name it. Also, the easiest way ever to clean your wheels. Just chuck water over them afterwards, I'm not sure if it affects rubber, but just in case.

https://www.actioncan.com/product/bc-90/

(CT-90 is a great lubricant by the same company, I chuck it on corrosion prone spots.)

I don't work for them etc, etc, but we did replace several other products in work with the action can equivalents. Cheaper *and* better.
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Rogerborg
nimbA



Joined: 26 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: 15:48 - 26 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
ThatDippyTwat wrote:
https://www.actioncan.com/product/bc-90/

~50% petrol
~35% butane
~15% isopropyl alcohol

For those mixing their own moonshine.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 14:38 - 28 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote
It could also be that the brake shoes are at their wear limit and the cam is starting to go over-centre. Especially if a previous owner had tried to eek out the shoes for a bit longer and moved the brake arm round a notch.
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 01:17 - 01 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
stinkwheel wrote:
It could also be that the brake shoes are at their wear limit and the cam is starting to go over-centre. Especially if a previous owner had tried to eek out the shoes for a bit longer and moved the brake arm round a notch.


or wrapped the cam with a piece of aluminium to get a bit more wear out of the shoes Smile
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