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Need a new lense and tripod after suggestions.

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TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 00:08 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Need a new lense and tripod after suggestions. Reply with quote

Sorry to bother you all I want to get my Nikon back out and used more next year however I fancy doing long range wildlife and scenery photography. Now at the moment I've currently got the following lenses 50mm, 40mm and 18-55mm.

Never used a tripod but I'm also looking into one just to get more stability on the shots. Now the only catch is that it will be moved around on the bike when I get back to riding so it can't be too large.


Budget is within reason most probably won't be looking to buy this month but under £1000 for both would be great.

Anyone able to advise or recommend any good lenses and a tripod Question
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NJD
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PostPosted: 00:32 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nikon FX or DX?

The pinnacle would be a Nikon 70-200 F 2.8 that forms the third and final instalment of the holy trinity lenses as they're known although in truth despite once owning the money to afford one outright never once did it appeal to me. Maybe if you're doing it professional day in day out then sure, an option nonetheless if your feeling to splash the cash entirely for perhaps a used on on eBay, at your own risk. Also depends if FX camera or DX because can't help feel lens would be wasted on a DX body.

More realistically I'd say a Tamron 70-300mm F 4.5-5.6 Di VC USD. 4.5-5.6 renders it a best performing in outdoors, loads of light and on sunny days so depends when you're going to be shooting. Falls well within budget and I'd recommend it for actions shots that the wildlife photography, in the event of birds, will require. VC is also noticeable and very good and will come in handy to stabilise shots for when your shooting scenery.

There's also a Tamron 70-200mm F 2.8 and Sigma 70-200mm F 2.8 that fall within budget from new but have no experience of either. Truth is I wouldn't really be all that fussed about owning an F 2.8 because while they're great the average joe using pictures for personal use won't be, in my opinion, disspointed with the performance of a F 4.5-5.6 on sunny days alone. Depends what you're after and like using.

I'd probably just use that 50mm for scenery shots because is a prime and performs better than zooms for the purpose of a still image when you've all the time in the world, constant and lower F stop and all that. Again though depends on FX or DX as to what focal length your actually getting and if advisable to use for type of photography you want. If you've got FX then could get 70-300 and 35mm just to splash the cash.

In the tripod department, velbon? Cheap and does the job. Pop into your local Jessops and see what they've got in store to get a better idea of what cheap vs expensive tripods look and feel like and how you use one, the size of one so on and so forth. Probably could carry one on a bike but that's where shopping in person would better to come into play to find what works for you. I'd look for one that could be secured to the side of a rucksack, other transport options available. Damage that could be done to you in the event of a crash then comes into play but then again I wouldn't, or can't see myself, ride with a tripod as luggage anyway so can't talk too much about it from that angle.
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 00:44 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

firstly which model Nikon do you have? (lens fitment) and as for lens size, a backpack should always be able to take a 70/200 f2.8 or a 400mm f5.6 minimum as these are std rucksack size and easy enough on a bike without issue.

I cant vouch much for Nikon lenses as I'm a canon shooter ..however just about any make shooter thats tried the sigma ART lenses seem to be getting rave reviews on image and build quality.at less than the same spec from Canon,Nikon,Sony etc so worth a google.And pushing the own brand lenses down in price at the moment on the used market.

Tripods are always a compromise....small form factor = more leg sections which flex more etc etc. 3 legged thing do some interesting ones that fit the bill for carrying about whilst folding down small for easy back packing about but they do need careful operating if using heavy glass on the camera. STAY AWAY from anything cheap that has the legs connected so you cant adjust each leg on its own as they is crap for most things. a tripod that you can lower right to the ground is great for dramatic landscape work and independent legs allow you a lot more options and fixing options out in the field.
Personally I like ball head mounts for portrait or landscape work with primes but shy away from them for bigger glass as they dont take the weight well with a big zoom. pan and tilt with a good weight margin usually best for this option.
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TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 02:14 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for the replies.

Sorry I should have mentioned the Nikon model that I have currently is the D3200. It was the ideal choice to replace my Panasonic Lumix TZ5. I'll have to visit Jessops next time I'm there to see what they have available for size wise on the tripod/monopod.

The £1700 price tag for the Nikon 70-200mm lense is a bit steep at the moment, I don't really want to go into that unless I made money from photography which is doubtful. I will have a look at reviews on the sigma and the tamron bearing them both in mind.

These are two kinds of images I'm trying to improve with the tripod as I really don't like how well they have slanted due to myself not holding the camera as straight as possible. I apologize regarding size it's best way to show the quality of them. They aren't good images anyway.

https://i.imgur.com/4ECHjvJ.jpg

https://s27.postimg.org/gha11w73n/DSC_0198.jpg


Whilst I'm on the subject I might as well ask as well is there a kind of cheat sheet when you are doing vehicles. Like this image below for example if I was trying to make the train or object in the foreground to pop more.

I've just purchased master-class by Tom Ang as suggested here in a very old thread. Which will hopefully help me get more out of the camera.


https://i.imgur.com/dtuc969.jpg
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linuxyeti
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PostPosted: 06:23 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I take lots of photos of Planes & trains as well, I find a really good all purpose lens to carry around on the bike is the Tamron 16-300mm lens, It gets good reviews, and not just from me Smile

https://www.jessops.com/online.store/categories/products/tamron/16-300mm-f3-5-6-3-di-ii-vc-pzd-macro-lens-for-nikon-90897/show.html

It works on the D3200, I know, as I've tried it my daughter's camera.

https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/tamron-16-300mm-f-3-5-6-3-di-ii-vc-pzd-macro
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 08:54 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's long range wildlife I'd say go for the Sigma 150-500 or 150-600. You'll want the extra length, especially with birds. Not too silly money especially if you go for pre-owned.

No idea on tripods to be honest. Considered a monopod as another option? Easy to move about and set up than a tripod. I'd only bother with a tripod for long exposure stuff. Most of what I do at the moment is motorsport, product or motorbike stuff anyway, so my 17-55 Sigma and my 50-500 Bigma are spot on. Also have an 8mm fish eye and a 50mm 1.8 for other more creative stuff (all on a Canon body) I use the work Nikon with an 18-55 on it and don't like it, mainly because I'm not used to it. It gives reasonable images though.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 09:24 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a Sigma 100-300 f/4 on my Nikon DX bodies; it's a good mix of length, speed and price. I also have the matched 1.4x converter for it but rarely use it.

When that lens is on the body I almost always use a monopod, which offers enough stability with far more manoeuvrability than a tripod. I also have a few tripods, most of which are rubbish except my Manfrotto one, which would barely quiver in an earthquake; it is heavy though and takes time to set up.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 09:35 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheSmiler wrote:


Whilst I'm on the subject I might as well ask as well is there a kind of cheat sheet when you are doing vehicles. Like this image below for example if I was trying to make the train or object in the foreground to pop more.

I've just purchased master-class by Tom Ang as suggested here in a very old thread. Which will hopefully help me get more out of the camera.


https://i.imgur.com/dtuc969.jpg


Opening the aperture (smaller F top) gives you shallower depth of field so the engine would be in focus but everything behind gets blurry - it's almost happening in your shot.
To achieve correct exposure while doing that on a bright day you might need ND filters though.
You can create a similar effect in Photoshop/Lightroom or similar.
A simple vignette would focus attention on the centre too
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linuxyeti
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PostPosted: 12:20 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bear in mind everyone, that the D3200 requires the lens to have a motor, unless of couse the OP is happy with operating the camera/lens manually
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

linuxyeti wrote:
Bear in mind everyone, that the D3200 requires the lens to have a motor, unless of couse the OP is happy with operating the camera/lens manually


Does it? Rubbish! I mostly shoot Canon, so have no idea. Smile
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TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you to everyone who has replied.

I'm still really undecided on the lens to be honest; I was hoping there was going to be some kind of pattern here however that really doesn't seem the case. Using the Nikon lens tester I have narrowed it down to max of about 300mm which helps cut the list down. Guess it just means more comparing.

However I have decided on a tripod I've just got to check it out next time I can make it to the local camera shop.

This is what I've gone with regarding that the Manfrotto Befree Compact Travel Tripod, not that expensive lightweight, compact and it gives great reviews.Link here.

doggone wrote:
Opening the aperture (smaller F top) gives you shallower depth of field so the engine would be in focus but everything behind gets blurry - it's almost happening in your shot.
To achieve correct exposure while doing that on a bright day you might need ND filters though.
You can create a similar effect in Photoshop/Lightroom or similar.
A simple vignette would focus attention on the centre too


Thank you, I don't really have any filters what so ever. I was just going to focus on lenses working on the actual images and then look into improving them. Sounds bad but the photos I've taken so far have all been in auto on the 18-55mm lens.

linuxyeti wrote:
Bear in mind everyone, that the D3200 requires the lens to have a motor, unless of couse the OP is happy with operating the camera/lens manually


The 18-55mm can be used manually, it really doesn't bother me feels more natural adjusting the lens by hand.
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 00:25 - 30 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well on the plus side just about any lens will be better than the kit lens if you go for something faster ( lower F stop) and honestly get used to shooting raw if you have lightroom/ photoshop etc as you can then pull detail from shadows and drop the exposure on highlights which improve things no end and you won't have to worry about white balance as much either as you can do that in post. It'll also open up the option of HDR to a much better degree and no if done right it does not have to look like it's from a comic book!!
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