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Tappet checking on the Lexmoto XTRS

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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 14:42 - 26 Dec 2016    Post subject: Tappet checking on the Lexmoto XTRS Reply with quote

Decided to make a proper topic about it here as I bet the topic I had in the general chat area was getting too mechanical for the admins likings Very Happy

Anyway Ive got the tank off (need some help there)
Found a window for the tappets(but going to have to take the head off anyway as i cant fit a feeler through the window)
Unbolted the flywheel cover... But I cant take the cover off. Need some help with that...

Anyway with dads help got the full tank off, had to put some clamps on the tubes as theres no tap for some reason. But I need some advice. I think my filler cap seal might be leaking. I tilted the tank forward and petrol seemed to come from the ring of the tank cover.

Is the seal gone or is that some sort of smart air hole technology?
I mean it cant be that smart as if I was to come off my bike petrol would leak from there when its on its side.

Found after taking the tank off and taking a cross beam support bar, I found what looked like a hatch to access the tappets. Opened them and it is. There is another one behind the fake radiator plastic thing. Trouble is its at an angle and I cant get the tappet through there and check. So Im going to have to take the head off.

Another problem is Ive unbolted the flywheel cover. But cant get the cover off... Am I missing something?

I would really appreciate some quick help as I would really love to get this done and ride on my bike tomorrow. I doubt even with quick help ill get it done before it gets dark.
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Aloysius Parker
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PostPosted: 14:49 - 26 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I suggest you keep your grubby little mits out. If you still want a working bike that is.
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Paddy.
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PostPosted: 17:26 - 26 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just tilt engine forward. Don't remove the fucking head. Laughing
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 18:27 - 26 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Managed to do it without removing the head... And besides. Doesnt look like the head can be removed, not without taking the whole engine apart... YAY chinese!

Anyway tappets done. They were too tight.

As for the spark plug, i got it out to take a pic...

And its a tinsy bit sooty. Nothing major really. Cant really get good pics with my phone... Anyway what do you think? (i think they might be fine, ie carbs in the rightish ratio?) Well there not filthy black at least.

I rubbed it on some paper to show what comes off. Its dry so no oil issues.
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Dimerz
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PostPosted: 22:56 - 26 Dec 2016    Post subject: Re: Tappet checking on the Lexmoto XTRS Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:
I think my filler cap seal might be leaking. I tilted the tank forward and petrol seemed to come from the ring of the tank cover.
Is the seal gone or is that some sort of smart air hole technology?
I mean it cant be that smart as if I was to come off my bike petrol would leak from there when its on its side.


Basically answered your own question, your rubber seals are likely gone, get a new fuel tank cap that should for sure fix it. There is one hole in the tank itself when you take off the cap. But that only lets fuel exit the tank through a pipe which goes through the tank to leak to the bottom if the tank gets overfilled with petrol. Shouldn't be exiting the cap through the top.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 27 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well had another ride out on the bike today... Bloody freezing out there. But its mostly dry and I managed to give the Chinese bike a bit of a thrashing...

And wow. I say with some calm, I mean sure its not going 70 80 and accelerating like a superbike, but its a lot better than it was. It could idle at 2000 rpm without stalling, starting seems a lot easier and quicker, And it felt like it had more of a spring in its step wen riding... The throttle responded a bit quicker, it was comfortably getting to 50, and happily cruised at 55, I even hit 65 on a slight down hill though I was holding back a little.

Its still a lexmoto and its still a more bottom end of 125 range.... but it felt a lot better than it has been.

And even though it was freezing out side... -2, I did really enjoy riding it around back and forth a bit... Even ended up having my first night time ride getting some milk. Which was a little hairy coming back, on an A road i nearly missed my turning... its a bit of blind turn.

One thing to note, i did hear something knocking a little when hittin the higher revs, it could have been some fairing i didnt tighten enough. Or maybe something else. Something to investigate tomorrow.

And yeah its looking like I might have to buy a whole new set of keys and locks... just to replace the fuel cap. Though I was thinking maybe the leak came from the air hole?
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DonnellyShard
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PostPosted: 23:57 - 28 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:
Well had another ride out on the bike today... Bloody freezing out there. But its mostly dry and I managed to give the Chinese bike a bit of a thrashing...

And wow. I say with some calm, I mean sure its not going 70 80 and accelerating like a superbike, but its a lot better than it was. It could idle at 2000 rpm without stalling, starting seems a lot easier and quicker, And it felt like it had more of a spring in its step wen riding... The throttle responded a bit quicker, it was comfortably getting to 50, and happily cruised at 55, I even hit 65 on a slight down hill though I was holding back a little.

Its still a lexmoto and its still a more bottom end of 125 range.... but it felt a lot better than it has been.

And even though it was freezing out side... -2, I did really enjoy riding it around back and forth a bit... Even ended up having my first night time ride getting some milk. Which was a little hairy coming back, on an A road i nearly missed my turning... its a bit of blind turn.

One thing to note, i did hear something knocking a little when hittin the higher revs, it could have been some fairing i didnt tighten enough. Or maybe something else. Something to investigate tomorrow.

And yeah its looking like I might have to buy a whole new set of keys and locks... just to replace the fuel cap. Though I was thinking maybe the leak came from the air hole?


What clearences have you your tapets set to? Btw shouldnt need to clamp pipes as no fuel will come out despite lack of tap. Dont know best way to explain it but one of the pipes is a vacuum that connects between the carb and engine. Its that pipe that draws the fuel through the fuel pipe to the carb when the engine rotates
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 00:04 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would say around .08mm I was using a 0.076mm gauge and closing down on that... But i have a feeling its a tinsy bit looser than that... I must admit, i can hear a slight low frequency knocking sound that i believe is the front valve.

I might open it up again and just ever so slightly tighten the front tappet.

But the bikes running a while lot better now.
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GT200Fan79
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PostPosted: 00:21 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lol at your age son i was building an oil cooled GSXR 750 with 116 rwbhp. How can some shitty 125 be difficult?
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 00:35 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

GT200Fan79 wrote:
Lol at your age son i was building an oil cooled GSXR 750 with 116 rwbhp. How can some shitty 125 be difficult?


not difficult, just awkward... though i dont have your level of experience :p
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DonnellyShard
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PostPosted: 00:36 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:
I would say around .08mm I was using a 0.076mm gauge and closing down on that... But i have a feeling its a tinsy bit looser than that... I must admit, i can hear a slight low frequency knocking sound that i believe is the front valve.

I might open it up again and just ever so slightly tighten the front tappet.

But the bikes running a while lot better now.


Thanks for the reply. ive got one with running issues atm. Bought it on a wim last night. Didnt run right at all and very reluctant to start. Checked clearences and they were both much too tight. Was told the outlet clearence was 015 and inlet was 008. 015 seemed a very big and knocky gap so I put it to 011 for the moment. Starts first kick (dead battery too, yay) but now revs right up to 6000rpmand very rich. No choke lol. Will reduce outlet to 008 and fiddle with the carb during the little daylight we have this winter. Hopefully will be okay after that. Cant seem to find much info for settings on these bikes to be perfectly honest. What year is yours and whatget engine does it say its got on the logbook? Mines the 125-23 . Still doesnt help when trying to find anything
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DonnellyShard
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PostPosted: 00:40 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

GT200Fan79 wrote:
Lol at your age son i was building an oil cooled GSXR 750 with 116 rwbhp. How can some shitty 125 be difficult?


My first bike was a project gsxr 400 sp. That was 2 years ago. That was much easier to tune and repair than a shitty CPi chinese 125 I had few months back. swear the chinese do it on purpose sometimes lol. Miss that old gsxr
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 00:58 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

2014 is the year of manufacture. The engine cant remember... But yes the Chinese really did mess up on some obvious gaffs... The tappet windows are a pain to get to and are at such an angle its hard to get a feeler in there without bending them a bit. And because there is a slight curve is part of the reason I say around .08

Also the carb is a joke... How the hell are you meant to tune the thing with the tank on and engine running?

There is no way to get to the tuning screw.

And yeah, mine were too tight. Right away after loosening them up a little everything running a whole lot better.

As for dead Battery. Well... The electrics on my bike are a bit dodgy. I think the regulators dead (way over volting) or the gauge is too sensitive.

My speedo project should show a correct voltage. But I havnt had a lot of time to work on the board. I still need to do a little more testing before I attach this thing to the bike.

Ive been more focused on having the bike running and using it.
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DonnellyShard
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PostPosted: 01:08 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:
2014 is the year of manufacture. The engine cant remember... But yes the Chinese really did mess up on some obvious gaffs... The tappet windows are a pain to get to and are at such an angle its hard to get a feeler in there without bending them a bit. And because there is a slight curve is part of the reason I say around .08

Also the carb is a joke... How the hell are you meant to tune the thing with the tank on and engine running?

There is no way to get to the tuning screw.

And yeah, mine were too tight. Right away after loosening them up a little everything running a whole lot better.

As for dead Battery. Well... The electrics on my bike are a bit dodgy. I think the regulators dead (way over volting) or the gauge is too sensitive.

My speedo project should show a correct voltage. But I havnt had a lot of time to work on the board. I still need to do a little more testing before I attach this thing to the bike.

Ive been more focused on having the bike running and using it.


Mines a 2013and yes I had to bend my feeler gauge to get it in there and it was still a pain. Carb adjustment screw is just in a horrid position I agree. Ive another week off work for the hollidays so I have to get it sorted for a MOT as its just turned 3 years old as I do want to use it as a everyday bike.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 08:53 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Huh, that's the Suzuki copy-engine. Ignore everything I said about it being the CG pushrod. </Teffers> Embarassed
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DonnellyShard
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PostPosted: 09:23 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Huh, that's the Suzuki copy-engine. Ignore everything I said about it being the CG pushrod. </Teffers> Embarassed


it seems these bikes have either OHC or OHV engines . Hard to find much info on adjusting either lol
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Bald_Eagle1
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PostPosted: 09:41 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

FWIW, I bought a Haynes Service & Repair Manual yesterday for Chinese, Taiwanese & Korean 125cc Motorcycles.

It has this to say regarding valve clearances:-

For OHV single cylinder engines & OHC twin cylinder engines, set the clearance for intake & exhaust valves to 0.08mm.

For OHC single cylinder engines, set the clearance for the intake valve to 0.08mm and the exhaust valve to 0.15mm.


HTH.
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DonnellyShard
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PostPosted: 09:56 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bald_Eagle1 wrote:
FWIW, I bought a Haynes Service & Repair Manual yesterday for Chinese, Taiwanese & Korean 125cc Motorcycles.

It has this to say regarding valve clearances:-

For OHV single cylinder engines & OHC twin cylinder engines, set the clearance for intake & exhaust valves to 0.08mm.

For OHC single cylinder engines, set the clearance for the intake valve to 0.08mm and the exhaust valve to 0.15mm.


HTH.



Thanks for the info. I may have to get one of those Haynes manuels. 015 seems awfully tappy
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:16 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is the recommended gap for the Suzuki GN/GS OHC 125 though.
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DonnellyShard
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PostPosted: 10:59 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
That is the recommended gap for the Suzuki GN/GS OHC 125 though.


This where im struggling a bit. 015 sounds very loud, so ive set mine to 011 but Nutsy said hes got both his set to 008 and its running fine. Mines got running issues, very rich and smelly. Currently in middle of cooking a greasy breakfast then im going to strip carb down and give it all a damn good clean and check for anything that may be causing me agro.
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DonnellyShard
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PostPosted: 12:07 - 29 Dec 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

DonnellyShard wrote:
Rogerborg wrote:
That is the recommended gap for the Suzuki GN/GS OHC 125 though.


This where im struggling a bit. 015 sounds very loud, so ive set mine to 011 but Nutsy said hes got both his set to 008 and its running fine. Mines got running issues, very rich and smelly. Currently in middle of cooking a greasy breakfast then im going to strip carb down and give it all a damn good clean and check for anything that may be causing me agro.


Agro update. Airbox has a crack in it also its full of fuel. Vaccum on tap not leaking.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 11:48 - 11 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well it was fun while it lasted...

My issues are back again. It was running fine for what 2 weeks? And it happened again. Going down a busy A road with traffic behind me at night time... ploddling along struggling to hit 55 and then ploploploploploplop.... power went and dead... i tried restarting the bike right away but wouldnt start for about a minute.

I was stick on the left side of the road just hoping a truck/lorry didnt come by and hit me. And I had to turn the lights off to save the battery enough to start it.

Was scary...

Can tappets tighten on there own that quickly? ( I wouldnt have thought so but thought id ask in case )

If not the tappets what else could be the problem?

When I was doing the tappets i took the carb box off to double check it was ok. Was clean... I didnt do anything with the carb though.

Could there be a problem with the fuel line or something? I dont think theres a kink in it but I could double check. it was as if the fuel was just stopped...

Heck even If i got my A licence right now im stuck with this bike for at least 6 months... I cant risk this happening all the time :/ Any further ideas?
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smallfrowne
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PostPosted: 12:25 - 11 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tappets won't close up that fast unless something is really wrong I'm sure Very Happy
It could be fuel related. It could be ignition related. I'd be interested to know if it was sparking at the time. Can you get to the plug easily behind fairings? You could use a spare plug to put in the end of the HT lead to check for a spark (rest it so it's touching the engine obvs) - save you taking the plug out. If it is sparking then maybe you'll have to take it out anyway to check if it's wet with fuel but it will make it a quick check. If it's not sparking then there's yer problem (obvs).
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 12:29 - 11 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I checked the spark plug last time and it looked fine, not really black not too lean, left a slightly sooty mark if i rubbed it against paper.
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smallfrowne
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PostPosted: 12:44 - 11 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I meant was, when you were at the side of the road praying not to be squished, was the the thing creating a spark? Simple test to rule it out is all. It could be a problem with a coil breaking down when hot - maybe, maybe not, it's all I seem to be talking about recently though Very Happy If it was then continue to trace the fuel. Hard to test now it's 'working' though - but if it happens again...
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