Solder for nipples

[smallfrowne]

As per title I want to warm up my nipples and dip them in molten solder. But what type to use?! Can I get away with using leaded plumbers solder from screwfix/toolstation/somewhere like that?

I've read around the internets a bit and it sounds like something I want to do, but the more you read the internet the more confusing, clear, then confusing things get. Plus nowhere seems to list the make-up of "plumbers solder", it's either unleaded, or tin/lead but no mention of whether it's 60/40, 50/50 etc (not on screwfix/toolstation anyway). Does it matter too much? The key seems to be making the cable knotted enough that it won't pull through easily without the solder anyway.

Options:
1. Fluxed electrical solder i've got kicking around somewhere.
2. "Plumbers" Solder:
i. Leaded 4 star.
ii. Unleaded.
3. A "bar" of plumbers lead off ebay, which may be 60/40, unlisted, or god knows.
4. A solder of your choosing.
5. A 2 part epoxy avec metal shaving dust a lá JB Weld.

Any help appreciated, I'm sure someone on here will have done this act before.

Oh and also, I'll probably get some "Bakers fluid" as it seems to be the go to flux - unless I go the epoxy route - but it's £10+, any alternative?

Cheers
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'90 VFR750; '89 NC30; '95 DR650; '89 CD250U; ~'82 CG125; ~C90

[jaffa90]

What`s the problem with your nipples? Sounds painfull!

[neptune8]

I assume from your posting that you are planning to make a cable or some cables that are not otherwise available off the shelf. If we are talking about brake cables, or to a lesser extent clutch or throttle cables, proceed with caution as safety is at stake. Solder containing lead is nowadays less common that years ago, as it is considered more as a health hazard than it used to be. If you have some old stock electrical solder, it is very likely to be 60/40. This ratio is chosen primarily because this solder "wets" the workpiece easily, and flows easily due to capilliary action. 50/50 would do the job but is slightly harder to work with. I seem to remember that 60/40 solder is called eutectic solder. Common solders will not work on stainless steel cables.The art of soldering a cable nipple is an art in itself. You need a powerful[100 watt?] iron. The hole in the nipple is wider on one side than the other. Pass cable through narrow side, and splay the strands out on the wide side before soldering. good luck. Test cable under high pressure before using.
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Enjoy yourself, its later than you think

[ThatDippyTwat]

You can still buy 60/40. It's not "illegal" as a lot of people think it is, but you can't declare RoHS with it in a product, so it's largely gone in physical shops, but You can buy it online easily. get some chunky stuff if you won't be doing electronics with it.

I've done cables with it before. You need a big iron, preferably one of the gas jobs on a focused flame, stainless cable has a surprising amount of thermal mass. Heat both the nipple and the cable, or it'll go to shit when you stress (pull) it, I know this because the nipple ripped off my custom clutch cable (because Renthals). Re-did it with more heat, and it never missed a beat.
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'98 VFR800 (touring) - '12 VFR800 Crosrunner (Commuting) - '01 KDX220 (Big Green Antisocial Machine)

[Kickstart]

Hi

I use some quite generic solder for doing cables (came on a roll of 3~4mm thick solder - I can dig it out to check the makeup if it helps). I use an 80W soldering iron for doing it, and use some flux paste on the end of the cable.

Once the nipple is soldered on (main thing is to splay the wires first) I clean up the nipple with a file.

All the best

Katy
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[stinkwheel]

Get the solid lumps/thick coils of lead tin solder.

Melt it in a pot/crucible.

Setthe nipple and cable up. Heat the nipple with a microblowlamp, dip in flux then dip in solder, it should suck it up if you got the temperature right.

lead based solder can be "shaped" somewhat afterwards with a soldering iron as it does have a kind of plastic phase. Although I usually use a fine file to remove any excess solder

The trick is in getting the end of the cable unravelled correctly in the nipple and not tinning the cable too far below the nipple creating a stress point.

Bakers fluid is best, especially if you're putting a nipple on old cable but I use normal flux for making new ones.

Remember to wash the flux off after. It's corrosive.

Also remember someone on this forum lost the sight in one eye soldering so goggles.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[smallfrowne]

Thanks for the replies. I think I'll stop worrying about which to use then - just get some leaded plumbers solder and have a play.

I was going to go with a solder pot for dipping the end into - maybe a brake piston as a melting pot with a burner underneath.
____________________
'90 VFR750; '89 NC30; '95 DR650; '89 CD250U; ~'82 CG125; ~C90

[bikenut]

tinmans, as mentioned bakers fluid, also fluxite, don't forget to "mushroom" the cable end, as that and the solder stops the cable from "pulling thru", and "tin" the cable and nipple. a large copper soldering iron and camping gas stove or similar is best, when the flame turns green, the copper iron is ready.

note, you ate supposed to clean the cable etc, where its tinned and/or soldered. Get a good wire cable cutter like a felco or similar and prepare the cable out also.
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nuts about bikes

[Islander]

[smallfrowne]

V. dangerous, good practice really to drive off moisture where it's going to get hot and potentially trapped. At the steelworks there have been a few incidents...

bikenut, I can get hold of an old iron that you heat up like that off a relative. I'll try it if I can't get the pot method working.

I may update when I receive the gubbins and give it ago. Cheers.
____________________
'90 VFR750; '89 NC30; '95 DR650; '89 CD250U; ~'82 CG125; ~C90

[stinkwheel]

I've never been sure exactly how you're supposed to tin the cable then mushroom the end of it.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[bikenut]

tinmans, as mentioned bakers fluid, also fluxite, don't forget to "mushroom" the cable end, as that and the solder stops the cable from "pulling thru", and "tin" the cable and nipple. a large copper soldering iron and camping gas stove or similar is best, when the flame turns green, the copper iron is ready.

note, you ate supposed to clean the cable etc, where its tinned and/or soldered. Get a good wire cable cutter like a felco or similar and prepare the cable out also.

re read.

The bigger the copper iron the better, more heat transfer, don't forget about the damp clean rag and be careful about the fumes.

Note, the oe jap "braided" cables of the 60/70/80/90's etc was a real bugger to clean, it tended to trap any lube that was there, or wasn't, as the cables where usually broken right by the handle bar lever nipple end.

New cable however is a joy, a regular weekend job from the weekend bikers with broken cables 150 miles from home at the time, regular a clockwork with out fail, usually just before finishing time on a sunday!!

The jap alloy "nipples" are cast onto a prepared mushroomed cable.
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nuts about bikes

[SixFeetOfMan]

Plumber solder is lead free, lead is a poison soluble in water...
60/40 is still used for repair of non ROHS products, aviation and military use, probably medical too.
60/40 is illegal only when used to repair/produce ROHS marked product.
60/40 is best for your purpose as it melts lower and flows better than any other solder wire.

Use of flux paste makes life much easier when soldering difficult materials.
Just dip cable before heating, wash with alcohol after cooling down to prevent corrosion.
Unsuitable for use with open flame.

[NutsyUk]

People usually start off with hot wax on there nipples, if theyre into that sort of thing...

Solder would leave some permanent scaring and burns.......




UpDATE:


OOhhhhhh right, you want to put a nipple on some cables... Well nothing wrong with leaded solder there... your not going to eat the thing.

Plumbers solder is lead free because its used on water pipes.

You can use leaded solder on electrical products and your own home projects. (Im using it on my speedo) But if you want to sell a product thats RoHS, yea you need to use lead free solder.

Nothing illegal about using it yourself. Just dont breath too many fumes and try not to rub the solder on your skin. You will build up some lead in your system but there are safe levels..., just like arsenic and radiation...

Ive never tried soldering stainless steal but yeah get some extra flux to help it stick and melt in... and try not to let it run too far down the cable so it causes a stress point if its in a flexible area.

Ive never heard of anyone loosing sight before... but makes sense to ware some goggles... Or your glasses... (if you have any)

But if soldering is too much a pain, why not buy some crimpers? there not expensive.
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Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!

[stinkwheel]

I think it was Owdamer lost sight in one eye soldering?

A forum search reveals TheShaggyDA once had a soldering injury very close to an eye. And I quote:

"I also had an accident whilst soldering, wearing just a bathrobe that wasn't quite done up"
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[NutsyUk]

[smallfrowne]

Hmm yes, ok, I like eyesight. I'll wear some safety specs. Still not ordered the nips but I've eyed up some solder and flux + an old chewed up brake piston has been acquired + a camping stove for a heat source. I'll order some nips and then go to work on a bunch of old cables for testing.

Lead is fun. In my old job we used to slowly dump ~500kg of fine grain lead into a cast to make cutting steel. But it's ok they did regular blood tests for lead/arsenic to make sure we dint go 2 stoopy stupid lolsoladsoldld I'm fine anyway.
____________________
'90 VFR750; '89 NC30; '95 DR650; '89 CD250U; ~'82 CG125; ~C90