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Silkolene PRO 4 10w-40 XP Full Synthetic

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Mark65
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PostPosted: 09:40 - 13 Jan 2017    Post subject: Silkolene PRO 4 10w-40 XP Full Synthetic Reply with quote
Hi,
For any one interested this is up at £11.99 a litre and best offer, I offered £8 a litre and it was accepted so took two.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silkolene-PRO-4-10w-40-XP-Full-Synthetic-Ester-4T-Bike-Engine-Oil-1-Litre-/331873970432?hash=item4d453ae900:g:SdkAAOSwuhhXVF4O
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:26 - 13 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
Aloysius Parker wrote:
Why are you using full synthetic?

Because racebike. Folded arms
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woo
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PostPosted: 10:33 - 13 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
why would you not use fully synthetic if you can afford it?
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:47 - 13 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
woo wrote:
why would you not use fully synthetic if you can afford it?

Same reason you wouldn't use high octane fuel, or put Perrier water in your radiator and bottled unicorn burps in your your tyres: it's completely pointless on a commuter hack.
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 10:52 - 13 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
Not bad but still possible to do better on price. Opie Oils have Shell Advance Ultra 4T 10W-40 Fully Synthetic for £24.44.

Works out at £6.11 a litre.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shell-Advance-Ultra-4T-10W-40-Fully-Synthetic-Motorcycle-Oil-10W40-4-Litres-4L-/181170151008
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Mark65
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PostPosted: 13:56 - 13 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
Aloysius Parker wrote:
Why are you using full synthetic?


Because its cheaper than the Motul 5100 I usually used from day 1.
Matt B, I read that Shell isnt a proper synthetic. + its less than £2 a litre so why not.
Just thought it may help someone.
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Mark65
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PostPosted: 14:29 - 13 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
Because its cheaper than the Motul 5100 I usually used from day 1.
Matt B, I read that Shell isnt a proper synthetic. + its less than £2 a litre so why not.
[/quote]Just thought it may help someone.[/quote]
[/quote]Why are you using 'motorcycle' oils?[/quote]

Because I bought it new and the dealer said it would melt its internals if i use car oil Very Happy
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 14:49 - 13 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
Aren't you going to invalidate your warranty by not letting a highly trained Honda technomagician screw it up?
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GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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Mark65
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PostPosted: 15:10 - 13 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
Rogerborg wrote:
Aren't you going to invalidate your warranty by not letting a highly trained Honda technomagician screw it up?


hmmm....

New bike would not start when finally collected on Sunday, dead battery I was told, picked up Monday with (alleged) new battery, put battery on CTEK charger and took 6 hours to charge.
Delivery miles 9.5 seem excessive considering below wasn’t checked.
Tyre pressures 20lbs (29lbs)
Chain slack 40mm (max 30mm)

21.08.15 - 719 miles 1st Warranty Service, Blackpool Honda, and chain overtightened to 20mm play at tightest point. £100 for an oil change. Neutral

04.02.16 - 3500 miles rear puncture, cush drive rubbers needed replacing under warranty, left it with them for a week, went back and punture fixed but rubbers had not been installed, after a talk i put them in myself on the counter.

Solonoid recall, took it out myself told them it was under the recall, they asked howi know and i said i have a copy of the Honda service bulletin, where did you get that from, tinternet, any way they said i would have to bring my bike in while they remove it and check, then they would order the part and i would bring my bike back again and they would install it Shocked , i think not and found another dealer that did it my way, a bit more helpfull.

Never been back to a Honda dealer since apart from getting oil filters, I did a oil and filter change at 250 miles and pretty much every 2k since warranty service myself. I dont think they really give a shit about your bike.
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Dr. DaveJPS
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 13 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
Rogerborg wrote:
woo wrote:
why would you not use fully synthetic if you can afford it?

Same reason you wouldn't use high octane fuel,: it's completely pointless on a commuter hack.


Unless you have a 2005ish plastic tank. As the cheap fuel has the effect of causing the tank to expand which can pull it off the mounting points. (I sold my KTM 950SM before this got too bad)
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Petemate
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PostPosted: 19:10 - 13 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
Aloysius Parker wrote:

Why are you using 'motorcycle' oils?


AFAIK 'car' oils, as opposed to 'motorcycle' oils, have what I have advised are some anti-friction additives. These are good for engines but not so good for motorcycle wet clutches. Years ago I ran my Revere over the 125k miles of my use entirely on B & Q car oil. No problems. But when I put the current bike of mine back on the road after a rebuild, I stupidly used a nice quantity of 10W/40 semi-synthetic car oil which I had to hand, and within a few hundred miles f***ed the clutch plates. (bad slippage and swelling) A new set of friction plates after a drain flush and refill with motorcycle oil and since no more problems. Elsewhere somewhere on this forum I read that there is doubt as to whether some of Halfords m/c oil has these additives. Anyone know? I am going to stick to the oil from my local independent dealer for now.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 20:40 - 13 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
Petemate wrote:
Aloysius Parker wrote:

Why are you using 'motorcycle' oils?


AFAIK 'car' oils, as opposed to 'motorcycle' oils, have what I have advised are some anti-friction additives. These are good for engines but not so good for motorcycle wet clutches. Years ago I ran my Revere over the 125k miles of my use entirely on B & Q car oil. No problems. But when I put the current bike of mine back on the road after a rebuild, I stupidly used a nice quantity of 10W/40 semi-synthetic car oil which I had to hand, and within a few hundred miles f***ed the clutch plates. (bad slippage and swelling) A new set of friction plates after a drain flush and refill with motorcycle oil and since no more problems. Elsewhere somewhere on this forum I read that there is doubt as to whether some of Halfords m/c oil has these additives. Anyone know? I am going to stick to the oil from my local independent dealer for now.


Do I have to do it again?

Short version: yes and no.

More: a 10W-40 car oil won't be aiming at fuel economy, so likely no friction modifiers.

Preachy version: bike oils are different and are most likely to offer fewer oil-related problems when used in a bike. But billions of miles on millions of bikes using countless gallons of car oil with no problems seems to offer some clues as to what people get away with.
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 21:03 - 13 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
Aloysius Parker wrote:

I wonder what people used before 'motorcycle' specific oil was a thing. Rolling Eyes
Also FYI I've never had any issues with cheap regular 10/40 oil.


the specifications requirements was a very basic oil .. api.. sf/sg

mineral oil was most commonly used and semi synthetic was

the "muts nuts" of the time ..

but these were all purchased from a motor factors outlet ..

often oil sold for cars would have "buried" in the small print "suitable for motorcycles"

and I use Castrol GTX semi synthetic 10w/40 from either ASDA or Euro parts.
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Petemate
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PostPosted: 23:42 - 13 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thanks for the inputs. However, I've done a bit more digging and come up with these:-

https://mobiloil.com/en/faq/ask-our-auto-experts/questions-for-auto-experts/difference-between-car-and-motorcycle-oils

and

https://husqvarnaoutlet.com/the_true_difference_between_motorcycle_oil_and_automotive_oil

Interesting reading.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 00:55 - 14 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
Petemate wrote:
Thanks for the inputs. However, I've done a bit more digging...


Me too.

Dig 1

Dig 2

Final dig for now.
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 09:31 - 14 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
I use bike oils because it seems silly to me to risk needing to change your clutch paltes for the cost of £10 per oil change? What's the cost of a new oe clutch steels and friction plates? £90?

Just doesn't seem worth it to me for such a tiny saving.
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tom_e
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PostPosted: 10:11 - 14 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
Wafer_Thin_Ham wrote:
I use bike oils because it seems silly to me to risk needing to change your clutch paltes for the cost of £10 per oil change? What's the cost of a new oe clutch steels and friction plates? £90?

Just doesn't seem worth it to me for such a tiny saving.


This is my opinion as well, it seems to be hit and miss some will be fine on car oil some won't so for fuck all real cost difference considering I can get 5l of Motul 5000 for around £25 it seems sensible to stick to bike oil.
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Petemate
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PostPosted: 11:40 - 14 Jan 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote
weasley wrote:
Petemate wrote:
Thanks for the inputs. However, I've done a bit more digging...


Me too.

Dig 1

Dig 2

Final dig for now.


LOLOL. Seriously, many thanks weasley. Very interesting info there, esp in dig2. So the B & Q stuff I used in my Revere from day 1 is probably still the same, although I am a bit wary of going that route now in the winter temps. Maybe I'll go down the 5W/40 car oil route and I'll keep an eye out for the energy conserving info.
Ta again!
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