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Tamsin |
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Tamsin World Chat Champion
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smallfrowne |
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smallfrowne Scooby Slapper
Joined: 25 Jun 2014 Karma :
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Posted: 18:00 - 17 Jan 2017 Post subject: |
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What year is it? A load of them have ignition circuits that work like this:
1. Ignition on - Spark signal wire from stator to ignition coil.
2. Ignition off - Spark signal diverted to ground. This stops the coil creating a spark. Switch in 'closed' position.
The switch is 'open' in the on position, meaning that if there is no switch or if the switch is on the result is the same - the coil can create a spark.
I'd check that everything is connected up from the switch, because if the wires aren't connected, that could be your problem - it'll run. But then I don't know when/if Honda changed this setup, and what the hell the PO has put in place to 'bypass' it.
A diagram might help but I'm on my way home in a min... ____________________ '90 VFR750; '89 NC30; '95 DR650; '89 CD250U; ~'82 CG125; ~C90 |
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Tamsin |
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Tamsin World Chat Champion
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smallfrowne |
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smallfrowne Scooby Slapper
Joined: 25 Jun 2014 Karma :
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Posted: 18:11 - 17 Jan 2017 Post subject: |
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Hmm, ok, I found this diagram i jazzed up a bit some time ago, it's for points but the idea is the same on CDI (up to a certain year probably).
You're interested in the Black/White wire.
https://i.imgur.com/igNs4Pal.jpg
Click for bigah
Plus this other bit that shows how the switch works
https://i.imgur.com/duSU6yt.jpg
ie OFF closes the ignition circuit to ground. E = Ground
But without the switch, the ignition circuit is always 'ON'
I think I got this right anyway, hope I am be making sense. ____________________ '90 VFR750; '89 NC30; '95 DR650; '89 CD250U; ~'82 CG125; ~C90 |
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WD Forte |
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WD Forte World Chat Champion
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WD Forte |
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WD Forte World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 18:27 - 17 Jan 2017 Post subject: |
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Here's what I found for an S/T model
AC CDI
the black/white wire from the CDI to the ignition switch is grounded ( green wire) to stop the engine.
No battery needed if you kick it to start and if the B/W wire
is floating, you'd have to stall it or wait for it to run out of fuel to stop
https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4XOyyNAc7Fc/VQl6i5jCWXI/AAAAAAAAKro/H8HM7lF8vmI/s1600/003.jpg ____________________ bikers smell of wee |
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 18:33 - 17 Jan 2017 Post subject: |
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Black white wire earths the coil or CDi.. Ie 'makes' a circuit to kill sparks, rather than brakes it,
Replacement Ignition switches, esp pattern ones often dont include the Black/white wire in the connector block, it's on a separate bullet.
Could it be that pattern switch been fitted & 'loose wire' left dangling? ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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Tamsin |
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Tamsin World Chat Champion
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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Tamsin |
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Tamsin World Chat Champion
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smallfrowne |
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smallfrowne Scooby Slapper
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smallfrowne |
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smallfrowne Scooby Slapper
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smallfrowne |
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smallfrowne Scooby Slapper
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Tamsin |
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 20:37 - 17 Jan 2017 Post subject: |
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Simplest kill switch is to take a single wire from the spade terminal on the coil and take it to a good earth.
Make that fast and put a switch in the wire, you have a kill switch.
That is actually how the ignition is actually wired, and why without the wire connected, you cant turn off the engine with it.
I suspect you aren't looking at the right end of the wire, if you are looking at what comes out of the switch, you should be looking for the wire that comes from the CDI, and would be in the plastic multi-way connector block, that the switch completes the route to 'earth' on.
Like I said, sounds like you have a pattern or later genuine Honda igntion switch or lock-set, where the kill switch wire has bee routed parallel to the multi-way connector block, so they can add inhibitors to it, on the bullet connector.
You likely have 8 wires in the multi-way connector on the spur on the bike's loom, and 7 wires in the connector that comes from the ignition switch that plugs into it, and somewhere dangling 'loose' with a bullet on the end, a black/white wire.
If you found the wire i the loom connector block that doesn't have a mate in the ig-switch connector bock; pulled that out of the loom connector and attactched it to the loose black white wire from the switch it's likey that it will turn the gition off as it should.
Taking the black white wire from the switch to earth, wont.. that wire when the switch in the 'off' position is already going to ground! Its the one in the loom conector connected to the CDI that eeds to be earthed to kill sparks. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 20:42 - 17 Jan 2017 Post subject: |
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A simple horn button will do it. They earth to the handlebars. Simply connect that to the white on black. Push to stop.
In fairness, I'd want a kill switch on my bike anyway, even with a working ignition switch. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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Tamsin |
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Tamsin World Chat Champion
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 20:58 - 17 Jan 2017 Post subject: |
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Tamsin wrote: | What I read from your post tef is that they *may* be a dangling wire somewhere around the engine connection block? I certainly didn't see one but will look again tomorrow. |
From the ignition switch, within 3", inside headlamp shell.
If there, or not, you need to ident the 'feed' wire in the connector block on the loom side (in the headlamp)
OR, by-pass the whole lot with wire direct from the spade on the coil to the frame...
As temp measure, just a wrap of wire around the spade under the connector that's there, you can touch other end of to one of the coil mount bolts, which are usually a good earth, will kill sparks and hence engine.... taking it to a horn switch is the 'fancy' and more permenant way about it....
Old front door bell pushy switches used to be popular for this purpose on stripped 'dirt-bikes' with no electrics. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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Tamsin |
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Tamsin World Chat Champion
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 11:45 - 18 Jan 2017 Post subject: |
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Tamsin wrote: | So would this be earthing the black/white wire to create a momentary short?
I have a handlebar mount on/off switch, I was going to just turn it into a switched earth for the CDI if I can't get it sorted out.
Everything is connected up correctly inside the headlight, including the black and white wire |
Physically 'the' black and white wire isn't.. it's at least two 'wires'. One in the main harness, ends in the multi-way connector that plugs into the CDi unit; one in the ignition switch that plugs into the multi-way connector block on the main harness, in the headlamp shell.
B/W wire, 'should' makes a circuit that takes the pin on the CDi to earth, when ignition switch in the 'off' position. IF as you say, everything is connected properly.... then turning ignition switch off would turn off the engine.... It don't, so it cant be.
Which suggests that that B/W wire(s) isn't completing the circuit from the CDi all the way to earth as it should...
This could be that
a/ the wire is broken,
b/ the contacts in a connector are corroded
c/ 'something' isn't connected right
Knowing that they changed the leads on later ignition switches, and ran the 'kill' lead outside the connector blocks on independent bullet, so they could dog in other 'inhibitors' like a side stand switch or clutch isolator, I WOULD look for that loose lead coming out of the ignition switch, that wont be mating to the wire on the loom.. or evidence it's been 'snipped off' by some-one who's bolted on later locks, plugged them in, started the bike, checked all the lights, shrugged and decided that wire's 'unused'.... then wondered why they couldn't turn the engine off
If that flying lead's not there, and stripping back a bit of sleeving on the lead from the ignition switch doesn't reveal remains where it may have been snipped..
As 'neatest' solution is to make as original, and if you can find the fault, fix it...
Then I would unplug the CDI, and identify the B/W kill wire at the CDi end in the multi-way connector... using a multi-meter or a test bulb and battery, I'd check that wire to see if it had continuity to earth at the CDi end with ignition switch in the 'off' position, and no continuity in the 'on' position.
Next check would be to test it at the ignition switch end, at the connector block attached to switch, in same way.
That would tell whether the switch s working or not, and if there should be continuity from CDi to switch.
Next check, I would push a small nal into the kill wire hole in the connector block at the CDi end, plug back into CDi, and start engine, then see if using a bit of loose wire from that spike to earth kills motor.. If so, then fault isn't in the CDi, it is in the wires from it. So I'd repeat spiking the kill wire further up, to check continuity through the connector block, at the CDi end.
Then basically repeat at stages up that wire, to the connector lock at the switch end... to find where fault lies... in loom or switch end connector block, or switch itself.
Going through that... should be a simple case of identifying where on the wire, it's not passing volts, and fixing the break, and ignition switch should work as t should.
If NOT.. and push comes to, and I had to give up trying to make as was, and put in an independent kill circuit, using another switch.. I still need to know where to tap into the original, which may be hard on the CDi end connector... but if the CDi connector isn't passing volts, or the CDi kill circuit is duff, it would be a waste of time, trying to earth the kill wire, anywhere... and I'd have to do it at the coil instead...make sense?
BUT, I suspect, if you follow the logic, 'fault' is in your assumption that 'cos it all looks to be connected as it should... it IS..... it obviously aint, IF turning switch to 'off' does't turn off engine! So, eliminate the assumptions, and real fault will reveal itself, chasing the logic.. and once revealed, aught be an easy fix. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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Tamsin |
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Tamsin World Chat Champion
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Tamsin |
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Tamsin World Chat Champion
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Tamsin |
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Tamsin World Chat Champion
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Posted: 19:37 - 18 Jan 2017 Post subject: |
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I'm not getting a spark... |
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Tamsin |
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Tamsin World Chat Champion
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 7 years, 92 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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