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1977 Yamaha V75A

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wr6133
World Chat Champion



Joined: 31 Dec 2013
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PostPosted: 22:59 - 28 Jan 2017    Post subject: 1977 Yamaha V75A Reply with quote

Latest project.

Received this 1977 Yamaha V75A from a mate (he has 3 of them). Having only very briefly seen it in his lockup before I was expecting a wreck. As the photos show it's pretty tidy.

As it arrived
https://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/v75a/IMG_20170125_112253940_zpsjowls5b2.jpg

https://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/v75a/IMG_20170125_112303288_zpsb81zw5e1.jpg

Complete with the unobtanium leg shields.
https://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/v75a/IMG_20170125_112340373_zpstfxr3hlp.jpg

And the all important service history
https://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/v75a/IMG_20170125_112413494_zpszvcols1t.jpg

Was serviced in 1978, ‘79, ‘81 and ‘82. 5th (8000 mile) service is not due yet as it’s only done 5100 miles. If I get it to 8000 miles I'm thinking about taking it to a Yamaha dealer and inquiring about a service Laughing

First thing was to drag it inside and get a good look over it
https://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/v75a/IMG_20170126_091056868_zps59ogveuc.jpg

I ascertained swing arm was damaged meaning the chain tensioner wouldn’t hold in place, electrics were goosed, seat cover knackered, throttle sticky and the leg shields while ok are a bit battered with a few splits. Side panels are missing, front indicator lens is missing and the rear indicators are off a Suzuki (no idea what) also they are mounted in the wrong place. Some effort has been put in a while back at restoration the black rear end is brush painted and the wheels and exhaust have been sprayed silver, neither very neatly but I won’t be attempting any paintwork yet.

I then dragged it outside, added petrol and started kicking. After the expected farting about with the carb I got it running. It now kicks first time. This was a relief as it means hopefully I won’t be needing to drop the motor.

Next I sorted the swing arm out. A bit of heat and a big hammer got the bracket for the adjuster straight. Lack of photos as working on my lonesome I forget to take many. If you look close at the first image in the thread though you can see the bent adjuster and just about see the bracket behind.

Tensioned the chain and rode it round the block. It’s pretty hilarious to ride, suspension gives you the sensation of being on a rickety rope bridge over a chasm while the 2 smoke motor goes on and off in surges, that’s all topped off with (bad) comedy drum brakes.

Ordered a battery
https://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/v75a/IMG_20170127_134927499_zpsre5ckn3q.jpg

While fitting the battery I tidied up the wiring behind the battery compartment. 40 year old wiring was in a better state than some sub 10 year old bikes I’ve seen.

Ordered an indicator lens and a sidepanel (both NOS Yamaha). Couldn’t find a panel ofr the left side though (at a sensible price).
https://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/v75a/IMG_20170128_120435707_zpsnful748x.jpg

On to the sticky throttle

Never seen a throttle like this before
https://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/v75a/IMG_20170128_123854456_zpsnio7jnsz.jpg

The throttle tube (solid steel) has a raised groove twisting around it that mates up to the groove in the picture. This means when you turn the throttle it pulls the above part along, which pulls the throttle cable. I can see why this method was ditched, the throttle tube has had to be so over engineered you could probably repurpose it as a murder weapon.

Greased and lubed everything as per the Haynes manual……… throttle is still a little sticky but not as bad as before (it now returns but doesn’t “snap” back). Hopefully it the MOT man passes it.

Now the seat. Plan is to source a NOS OEM cover, however the one on it was too tatty and the holes would lead to squidgy wet foam. I had some vinyl left from doing the ZZR seat a while back so used that.
https://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/v75a/IMG_20170128_202349988_BURST000_COVER_zpsnlvixipr.jpg

https://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh504/wr6133/v75a/IMG_20170128_202438163_zpss9rpbmsy.jpg

Reused the old grab strap as was too lazy to make a new one.

Things still to do.

Refit seat.

Reposition rear indicators to correct location (and eventually locate correct indicators).

Replace swing arm (my repair will do but I’m not happy with it long term).

Fix indicators. Currently they illuminate and flash correctly on the left side but the right side has a delay before illuminating and then flashes slowly (Bulbs are unmarked I suspect one is
incorrect on the right side so ordered some new ones).

MOT it. Ride it.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 14:03 - 02 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, Vaguely Similar to my RXS, the indicator lenses look to be the same when I was gonna ofter you one of my spares, till I read that you have one.

I think I just bought the same battery too Laughing

The Indicators on the 6V bikes were always shit. I'm seeing if swapping them to LED will help. It will probably not much dearer than buying 2 new bulbs. It's cost me £4.95, I'm just waiting for them to arrive.
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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Bloggsy
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 08 Feb 2010
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 02 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bought a V50 new in 1974 cost £135 on the road it was a cracking little bike and it was used as a ride to work bike.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 02 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:


The Indicators on the 6V bikes were always shit. I'm seeing if swapping them to LED will help. It will probably not much dearer than buying 2 new bulbs. It's cost me £4.95, I'm just waiting for them to arrive.


You'll probably need a 6V LED indicator relay too which will be more expensive.

I used one of these on Mrs stinkwheels YB100 and a set of the rather nice SMD bulbs from the same company (buy cheap, buy twice etc).

The indicators are now super-awesome. So much so in fact that they almost overwhelm the orange tint of the flasher lenses. Should have got amber LEDs rather than white ones.

Remember the problem is an overall lack of power so ballasting them up to make a conventional relay work is self-defeating. The electronic relay gives a constant flash rate independant of supply voltage and circuit load and draws only a minimal amount of power itself.

I'd be surprised if the YB had any siginificant differences in its electrics.

Incidentally. I also wired in an early 70's CG125 reg/rec with proper heat sinking in place of the standard diode. The charging system is WAY more stable now compared to the original unregulated, half-rectified lash-up. Horn works on demand, flashers flash, dash lights up and the battery stays charged. Worth considering spending that extra tenner if you've just shelled out for a fancy battery.

I've lost the bit of paper I worked out the wiring on but there are essentially two charging phases, a live and an earth. Didn't take a lot of working out with the CG and the yamaha wiring diagrams in front of me. It even attached neatly using one of the captive bolts inside the frame.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 22:00 - 02 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
chris-red wrote:


The Indicators on the 6V bikes were always shit. I'm seeing if swapping them to LED will help. It will probably not much dearer than buying 2 new bulbs. It's cost me £4.95, I'm just waiting for them to arrive.


You'll probably need a 6V LED indicator relay too which will be more expensive.


That includes the flasher everything was 99p delivered!
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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wr6133
World Chat Champion



Joined: 31 Dec 2013
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PostPosted: 11:22 - 05 Feb 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:

The Indicators on the 6V bikes were always shit.


I've sorted the wiring on them now and they work. Sometime in the past 40 years whoever put the suzuki indicators on the back had made a real pigs ear of extending the wires (with household 3 core). I was half tempted to pull them all off, the bike can MOT without.

Bloggsy wrote:

Bought a V50 new in 1974 cost £135 on the road it was a cracking little bike and it was used as a ride to work bike.


When I get this on the road it'll be a commuting bike.

Progress has been a bit 1 step forward, 2 steps back. As mentioned indicators are now all working. Throttle now snaps back as it should.

I sourced a super cheap pattern swing arm that fitted with minimum grinding and then it all went wrong. I bent the new swingarm in the exact same way the old one was bent!

I think the centrifugal clutch is the issue it's not operating consistently. In short sometimes when you flick it in to gear it is driving the chain round hard enough to cause enough force to bend the bracket that holds the chain adjuster. Other times it's not and it behaves properly

I'll have to pull the clutch out and have a look. Work is going to keep me busy for the next 2 weeks though so it'll have to wait.
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The last post was made 7 years, 74 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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