Cleaning pads, easy peasy? (Kawasaki ZR7 / ZR7S)

[NJD]

So after a few hundred miles of winter riding the rear has gunked up and is rubbing / in need of a clean. No big wow wow and to be expected. First time wanting to do the task in hand since owning the bike so how easy?

I'm only really looking to do the lightest of tasks just to keep it going rather than a rebuild / fluid change etc so is as simple as taking the mounting bolts out, wiggle caliper of, take pads out and clean? I guess what I'm really asking is if there's anything to look out for before I attempt the task in hand since once I start the job in hand I'm on my own given there's no way to get a 200kg bike to the nearest bike shop without riding it a few miles should anything go wrong.

(1) Something I could do with explaining to me is where on the below is the pad retaining bolt that you need to snap with an allen key head to allow you to get the pads out? The manual only shows a picture of the front and that's different all together. Is it part (A) at the bottom of the photo (beside the pistons)?

Kawasaki ZR7-S 04.

https://s28.postimg.org/9gwpg4tbx/ZR_REAR_CALIPER_DIAGRAM.png

(2) Also would you attempt the job without a clamp to push the piston back in? Link to a cheap one that will get me through casual mechanical use?

(3) Copper slip on the back of pads where they make contact with the pistons. Do you put copper slip on the pad retaining / rattle spring (part on the diagram inbetween the pads) and outside of the pistons also?

(4) This do for a torque wrench?

Think that's about it for the questions. Can't start the task in hand without a torque wrench so might be a day or two before "iz dead or not?" Just want to make sure the torque wrench listed is adequate and not wasting monies.

Probably just spin the wheel and run some brake cleaner on the disc to get the crap of pads temporarily. No service history and never been inside caliper before so who knows what I'll find.
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[bamt]

The pad retaining pin is the one at the bottom centre of the picture with the R clip on it (be careful not to lose that clip when you disassemble, they are very easy to put down and not be able to find again unless you put bits into a bowl). That doesn't look like an allen headed one to me. Be aware that those pins can corrode where the pads slide on them; you can polish them up but might end up needing to replace it. If it is bad, you can just slap it back in and use it until you get a new one - it's no worse than it is now.

For a quick clean, I'd just remove the pads, give the pistons a clean with brake cleaner and a toothbrush, clean up any slidy surfaces the same (so the retaining pins, the parts of the caliper body where the pads slide etc.).

A tiny bit of copperslip on the back and slidy surfaces and back together.

You want to minimise pushing the piston in whilst disassembling to the smallest amount you can manage in order to get the pads out - that's to stop muck getting pushed past the seals.

You should be ok without a tool unless the pistons are very stiff - a flat lever of some kind, being careful what you press against, will be more than sufficient if the pistons aren't horrible. You should be able to do it finger pressure, but might need something to make the gap big enough to get fingers into.

You can probably manage that without a torque wrench as it just needs a bit of mechanical sympathy on the bolts. I think the wrench you've shown may be a bit heavy duty - you are right down at the bottom end of its range for the caliper mounting bolts. It's range is 19-110, your bolts are likely to be low 20s.
I use one of the these Halfords ones, a bit spendy but pretty much ideal range for anything on a bike except the back wheel. Which I just do FT.

[wr6133]

[NJD]

Manual says 34 N.m for the caliper mounting bolts. I imagine the manuals are to be taken with a pinch of salt much like the Haynes? (I'm using workshop one from google).

I'll try without a torque wrench. Everything I've done in the past has been by hand, guess I put over importance on getting it exact, probably easier to get wrong with a torque wrench ie: over tighten.

I had a think between the post and this one and figured if I really did need a clamp to get the pistons to go back in then it probably needs more than just a light clean.

Thanks for responses

edit:

Also found https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCPsWJihG10 can't really ask for a better visual guide.

Changed thread title for future reference.
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The do it all, T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶r̶o̶k̶e̶n̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶,̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶i̶g̶ ̶l̶u̶m̶p̶,̶ ̶C̶h̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶N̶o̶o̶d̶l̶e̶

[Rogerborg]

https://i.imgur.com/cO1syJu.png

I wouldn't bother with a torque wrench, just do the bolts up snug but not Hulk. The smart thing to do is to use a marker pen to mark the bolts and caliper so that you can check they're not coming undone (I don't, because I never learned to read )
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[NJD]

Well, I got there in the end, I think. I say I think because test ride will be the next commute. Tune in next time to find out if deadded or not. Be my RememberPal?

Pad retainer pin stayed in place, I'll go and buy a lottery ticket.

Today's lesson: I hate clips/pins/whatever.

Compulsory pictures:

https://s28.postimg.org/qneldngrh/KE1.jpg

https://s23.postimg.org/yk9jhw7p7/KE2.jpg

Nothing really to report and all went back together and come apart as it should. Turns out monkey shop worker tightened the bolts with copper slip I assume to torque setting and so I spent a while trying to loosen it only for the Halfords spanner to come to the rescue and crack it eventually.

Tightened em up using a 1/4 ratchet and socket and then a bit more with the spanner and marked with marker, tried nail varnish and is pants.

Rolled it down the path and stops as should, after pumping the pedal obsessively of course. Tail light works as should, didn't before which is reason why wanted to clean. Turns out easier to push, who knew (yes borg, you told me so before).

First real mechanical task completed and I'm only a couple of quid poorer (consumables) for it, wheey.
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The do it all, T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶r̶o̶k̶e̶n̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶,̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶i̶g̶ ̶l̶u̶m̶p̶,̶ ̶C̶h̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶N̶o̶o̶d̶l̶e̶

[Beehive Bedlam]

[FretGrinder]

[NJD]

[Rogerborg]

[NJD]