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Advice on removing a seized rear axle? Thanks

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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 18:24 - 12 Mar 2017    Post subject: Advice on removing a seized rear axle? Thanks Reply with quote

So, my rear axle has seized to a bearing, The rear sprocket itself basically fell away from the hub whilst riding. Bearings and cush drive rubbers shot. Have new ready to go in, but axle is being a pain in the backside to get out.

Have been told to try the following and was wondering if any one could give me their opinion on to which is the better method

1. Knock axle out as far as it will go before becoming 'stuck';lean bike slightly to one side and spray some WD40 (small ish amounts, nothing over the top) or similar onto the axle itself, and leave it to soak in for about 5mins. Knock axle back and for with a lump hammer to spread the Wd40 into all areas, then spray again, leave 5mins, knock back and for... rinse and repeat until it comes out.

2. Heat bar with oxy-acetelyne

3. Use locktite freezing spray on it.
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neptune8
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PostPosted: 18:57 - 12 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would try option 1 first. I find that the key to knocking out a stuck axle or spindle is to have something solid to knock against so that the workpiece cannot"escape". Park the bike parallel to a solid brick wall, and wedge some solid bits of wood or steel between the hub and the wall, so that when you knock the spindle, the hub cannot move. Obviously, sandpaper and grease the axle before re fitting.
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 19:06 - 12 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

neptune8 wrote:
I would try option 1 first. I find that the key to knocking out a stuck axle or spindle is to have something solid to knock against so that the workpiece cannot"escape". Park the bike parallel to a solid brick wall, and wedge some solid bits of wood or steel between the hub and the wall, so that when you knock the spindle, the hub cannot move. Obviously, sandpaper and grease the axle before re fitting.
.

Will try that suggestion, cheers mate
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Baggyman
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PostPosted: 19:18 - 12 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take care not to damage any threads on the axle by lumping it with a big hammer.

use either a piece of wood to protect it or put the nut on or a drift inside the thread diameter or a combination of the above.

Gently does it Smile
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 20:10 - 12 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you try and turn it one way or another as you smacketh it with great gusto. This usually helps.
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Old Git Racing
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PostPosted: 20:15 - 12 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't use WD40, use plus gas. If it moves a bit move it, then give it a good spray and leave it for several hours. try again and repeat. You could shatter the bearing with a good punch and a big hammer as a last resort. Don't use WD40, its a water disperser with little or no lubrication properties.

OGR
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 21:17 - 12 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Old Git Racing wrote:
Don't use WD40, use plus gas. If it moves a bit move it, then give it a good spray and leave it for several hours. try again and repeat. You could shatter the bearing with a good punch and a big hammer as a last resort. Don't use WD40, its a water disperser with little or no lubrication properties.

OGR


Did not know that. WD40 do sell a specialist "Fast Penetrating" oil which may work. Not the same as their regular stuff.

Ill give it a spray tomorrow as near the bearings as possible, and do method 1 above. Knock it back and for. Spray again, knock it back and for again. Hopefully it will eventually give in and slide out.

When the sprocket came away from the hub, I am now able to see right inside the area where your cush drive rubbers would sit... can see a bearing in there, may be worth shattering that one if push comes to shove
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 21:35 - 12 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lean it to one side?
You dont say what bike, which isn't helpful, but if the weight is on the wheel not a centre stand or paddoc stand, you are making life rather hard for yourself!
Smacking axles with hammers is also a fast way to effup axle threads, and or swing arms, and more than likely thumbs!
They usually have a dimple in the end of the axle for you to put a pointed drift in, without the drift slipping.... if you have one, get a drift and USE IT!
If axle doesn't have a dimple, get, make, procure some sumilar sort of WIDE flat head drift instead, to spread load over the end of teh axle, and avoid smacking direct with hammer...
WHICH on a well maintained bike shouldn't really be needed... weight off teh wheel on padoc stand, nut removed, holding wheel with one hand, you aught be able to pull the axle out with the other and just a little wiggling.
WD40, as said isn't penetrating oil, its Water-Dispersant - foumulation 40.... great for getting water out of old points ignitions, not too bad for tempererily stopping a garden gate hinge leaking, but it is NOT the stuff for the job here... which, is an axle, that SHOULD have loads of grease around it from the bearing grease in the bub....
But... I will take a guess its a bit of a stubborn bast, with wight on it, and you are a bit wild with a hammer.
Last ditch, if an axle IS really stuck, I have before now used an SDS pointed chissel in an SDS 'hammer drill', dimple of axle and point of chissel coated liberally with grease, used drill as very fast percussion hammer to 'shock' an axle free and break corrosion stiction... CAREFULLY, or you jack-hammer wheel, swing-arm axle, patio, extension cabe et all to bits!
But, short of a very very deralict bike that has been allowed to rust 20+ years, or one with a bent axle, which wont budge regardless and will probably have to be cut....

Forces should NOT need be that great, if you are up against having to use brute force and ignorance STOP... re-evatuate and apply inteligence first!

I suspect it probably is just weight on teh wheel, or wheel tilt, and technique... apply patience and inteligence, and it will give in eventually.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 21:37 - 12 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It does help if we know what type of bike you have.

Removing a through type steel axle with a nut on the end (aka pre 90's and Chinese stuff) is considerably easier than shifting a hollow alloy axle that is tapped into the swing arm.

If it's Chinese I'd probably just grind straight through the whole lot and chuck it in the bin.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 12 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you sure the movement is the seized bit and not the object it is seized to? This happened on my 125, it was the sprocket carrier bearing spacer rather than the bearing. Hacksaw'ed through spindle on both sides of the swing arm to get the wheel out. I could not remove the spacer from the remains of spindle, ordered used spares of both.
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 12 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
Lean it to one side?
You dont say what bike, which isn't helpful, but if the weight is on the wheel not a centre stand or paddoc stand, you are making life rather hard for yourself!
Smacking axles with hammers is also a fast way to effup axle threads, and or swing arms, and more than likely thumbs!
They usually have a dimple in the end of the axle for you to put a pointed drift in, without the drift slipping.... if you have one, get a drift and USE IT!
If axle doesn't have a dimple, get, make, procure some sumilar sort of WIDE flat head drift instead, to spread load over the end of teh axle, and avoid smacking direct with hammer...
WHICH on a well maintained bike shouldn't really be needed... weight off teh wheel on padoc stand, nut removed, holding wheel with one hand, you aught be able to pull the axle out with the other and just a little wiggling.
WD40, as said isn't penetrating oil, its Water-Dispersant - foumulation 40.... great for getting water out of old points ignitions, not too bad for tempererily stopping a garden gate hinge leaking, but it is NOT the stuff for the job here... which, is an axle, that SHOULD have loads of grease around it from the bearing grease in the bub....
But... I will take a guess its a bit of a stubborn bast, with wight on it, and you are a bit wild with a hammer.
Last ditch, if an axle IS really stuck, I have before now used an SDS pointed chissel in an SDS 'hammer drill', dimple of axle and point of chissel coated liberally with grease, used drill as very fast percussion hammer to 'shock' an axle free and break corrosion stiction... CAREFULLY, or you jack-hammer wheel, swing-arm axle, patio, extension cabe et all to bits!
But, short of a very very deralict bike that has been allowed to rust 20+ years, or one with a bent axle, which wont budge regardless and will probably have to be cut....

Forces should NOT need be that great, if you are up against having to use brute force and ignorance STOP... re-evatuate and apply inteligence first!

I suspect it probably is just weight on teh wheel, or wheel tilt, and technique... apply patience and inteligence, and it will give in eventually.


yes lean it to one side and squirt fluid in so it runs along the axle length and into all the spaces it needs to in order to "free" it from whatever is seized. I am not going to hit the axle while it is leant, i am not that daft lol

I have a block of wood handly to put over threaded end and a lump hammer will be lent from a mate to give it some gentle-ish taps.

I have a mechanic who said he will take a look if i am not getting anywhere, he has done many in the past and used heat to expand metal, and let it cool and out she pops
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 22:10 - 12 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Are you sure the movement is the seized bit and not the object it is seized to? This happened on my 125, it was the sprocket carrier bearing spacer rather than the bearing. Hacksaw'ed through spindle on both sides of the swing arm to get the wheel out. I could not remove the spacer from the remains of spindle, ordered used spares of both.


The rear sprocket, fell away from the carrier hub is how the recovery guy described it. Said my rear sprocket carrier bearing had collapsed

So i am able to see into the area where the cush drive rubbers live.




https://cdn3.volusion.com/hptrb.tpsue/v/vspfiles/photos/CHO-47001-823-0100-2.jpg

ie, The unit in picture above, fell away from the hub where the cush drive rubbers sit. The axle will come out a short distance on the side where the rear sprocket sits.... but then just stops. May well be similar situation to yours, but i am just going off the majority opinion which is collapsed bearing
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kgm
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PostPosted: 23:53 - 12 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Old Git Racing wrote:
Don't use WD40, use plus gas. If it moves a bit move it, then give it a good spray and leave it for several hours. try again and repeat. You could shatter the bearing with a good punch and a big hammer as a last resort. Don't use WD40, its a water disperser with little or no lubrication properties.

OGR


+1 on this. Plus gas is far superior.
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