Can't drill into stud

[Arcane1729]

Hi
This isn't technically for a "proper" motorbike engine but it is for another engine. Please don't ask me what engine- but it's on one which isn't working so it's ok.
Anyway there was a stud sticking out of the engine. Said stud snapped and now it is flush with the hole it was threaded in. So I can't use my vicegrips to rotate and pull out. It is a little deeper in than flush I think so dremel is out too- or at least even if it is flush I would have needed to dremel a flat that goes deeper than flush in the stud- so the engine would block it.

My only option is the set of screw extractors that I've never actually used before. There is another stud which is intact- so I thought it'd be good idea to test on that with the drill- the trouble is nothing is going in- this is HSS Dewalt drillbits I'm using here- no idea what the heck is going on. I'm trying to drill into the flat face on the end.
I tried the extractor set drill bits and they obviously would not work after the Dewalt HSS.

So I went to homebase and the guy said it depended what the stud was made out of- the HSS bits wouldn't drill through if it was the same material- I don't know what the stud is made of but he suggested titantium drill bits saying they were stronger than the HSS.
I wasn't gonna buy them without proof they were going to do the job though so here I am- any ideas please what I can do? Don't know what steel but I am seriously doubting made of titanium (the studs)- when this is of chinese make.
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Kymco Super 8 (125) Honda CBR 125
A2 2017
Teflon Mike: "A man can dream... but most of them are probably best not voiced.... Folk will likely think you are just mad, sad or simply a pervert."

[ThatDippyTwat]

If you can't work out how to use stud extractors, given the whole fucking internet at your fingertips, you should put the tools down, and walk away. Plusgas is your friend if you want to fix... sorry, fuck up, something next time.
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'98 VFR800 (touring) - '12 VFR800 Crosrunner (Commuting) - '01 KDX220 (Big Green Antisocial Machine)

[P.]

What engine?

Is it on the path outside?

[pepperami]

Troll.
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I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now!

[Arcane1729]

I don't know why I bothered.
____________________
Kymco Super 8 (125) Honda CBR 125
A2 2017
Teflon Mike: "A man can dream... but most of them are probably best not voiced.... Folk will likely think you are just mad, sad or simply a pervert."

[Hahadumball]

are you drilling with a 5mm bit? or starting at 2mm and working up in .5 incriments?

what engine btw? you didnt say
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Fin: no matter how much I look at It I can't understand what was going through my head, all I remember is going about 80 and redlining it to stop it seizing.
360 Deg... Five 1/4 turns. :- Teflon-Mike 18 Jan 2015

[kramdra]

Titanium is a coating, piss coloured, makes no functional difference to a shit drill, costs double. Cobalt HSS makes a massive difference, and cheap Heller cobalt bits from toolstation/ebay will drill through most/stainless with ease.

However I doubt your ability to drill the stud. It is not an easy task especially if it is an exhaust stud.

[WD Forte]

The trickiest bit is finding and holding the centre when drilling
so a centre punch is good to help start a small pilot drill
say 3mm
This pilot drill hole helps keep the following larger sizes centred
(providing of course its properly centred itself)

What diameter stud?
IF you find dead centre and run in a pilot drill on axis, you can sometimes drill out to the inner thread diameter and collapse the remainder with a pick or scriber and clean up after with a tap

I have a 50/50 ratio of success/fuck up on sunken stud removal
so use discard this info as you wish
____________________
bikers smell of wee

[Arcane1729]

[Hahadumball]

yes..

centre punch it
drill with 2mm-3mm and work up in .5 increments are best
____________________
Fin: no matter how much I look at It I can't understand what was going through my head, all I remember is going about 80 and redlining it to stop it seizing.
360 Deg... Five 1/4 turns. :- Teflon-Mike 18 Jan 2015

[Arcane1729]

[Teflon-Mike]

Have to give you credit for your tenacity Arcane, BUT.... there are some people who shouldn't be allowed to operate any pece of machinary with more moving parts than a pair of scissors without adult supervision....

You MAY be one of them... and I would suggest you stick to your sums... and working them out with a pencil or bic biro... I think a Parka pen MIGHT have too many complex components for you....

If I need some-one to calculate the circumference of a tyre, or the square root of my bank balance, I'm sure you are the man.. but Seriously? I wouldn't trust you with a foot-pump to blow up a pair of push-bike tyres, let alone power tools!

NOT trying to be nasty.... BUT, in the real world where the square root of my bank balance is pretty much irrelevant, and wont make the bank manager any happier no matter how many mathematical proofs you offer him to suggest perfectly reasonable solvency.... we have to deal with facts... like that you are mechanically inept.

Stick to the sums. Go work for an insurance company or something; redefine their risk to earnings ratio and make the big money to pay people who dont have your mechanical disadvantages, to get their hands dirty with drills and spanner and shit!

NOW, go put the drill down before you make a REAL mess of things.

Before drilling into a stud or sheared fastener, you should, IF you had any mechanical training or acumen have flatted the top with a hand file, then very vert carefully used a centre punch to mark where you wanted to place the hole and keep the centre of the first very fine pilot drill centred when you start the hole.... in a PILLAR DRILL!

And before even that; you would have got the engine block on the pillar drill bench; you would have checked the alignment of the stud, and chcked and clamped the engne case to the pillar bed, so you were sure a) the engine wouldn't move, ad b) that when you drilled into your stud, that was ALL you drilled into, and the drill went straight, and not skew ad started taking metal outthe bit of engine case you want to keep.

Then you would have stage drlled, first, possbly with a cetreing bit, then a fine pilot drill, probably aroud 1.5mm, then, opened the hole up to maybe 2.5 or 3mm.... assuming its an M6 stud, with a nominal diameter inside the threads of 4.6mm you would NOT go any bigger than a 4mm drill as a last cut, just to upen the hole up and give room to get an extractor in... and leave metal around the hole to give some tolerence for setting innacuracy to avoid drilling through the treads and into the casing.

THIS is a pretty accurate ob, in a machine shop..... NOT somethig for a munkey wth a battery operated screwdriver and a LOT more 'imagination' and book learning than common sense.

When you had your hole n the stud... THEN, you would be a fool to try using an HSS EZ-Out reverse helix extractor, as such a small one wont go very far down the hole before it s startng to expad the std you are screwing it int into the thread holding it, and it will shear... and be impossible to drill out as its steel is as hard as a drill bit!

A flute extractor hammered into the hole, would likely give more grip, and made of softer steel, provided you have some sense of 'feel' not shear.

BUT, this is offering stuff you have probably no notion of, and even less experience about, and your inteligence is begging an argance that ts 'just metal! uts ad bolts! IDIOTS that dont have two GCSE's to rub together can fix this, so I AUGHT to be able to.... no, no you shouldn't... and it is that inteligence, and relience on it and the arogance that your kind of inteligence must make you more able than others to 'learn' such craft tasks that s WHY you really shouldn't be allowed to operate anything with more moving parts than a pair of scissors without adult supervision.

As an engineer, who has seved his time the work-shop, I 'might' for expedience tackle sch a job with a hack-and wrecker, cobolt drill and a practiced eye, and I might even get the job done.... eve though I am by comparison to some here, an rank amateur office jockey... BUT, I at least know t is NOT the best way to try tackling the job, AND how it should be done... you don't even know that.

So stop. Take a long hard look at what damage you have already done; and get some-one who knows how, to do it 'properly'... this is really not your forte, and this job is WAY above your pay-grade!

And throw that fucking battery operated screw-driver away, before you get any more daft ideas of carnage you can cause with it!

Sorry to be brutal, but you are an accidet looking for somewhere to happen, and ore 'help' we give you bigger the accdent you will likely cause for the encouragement.

Stop; recognis your talents; realise your limitations, and find a way to work within them. And get that over active imagination and inteligence and nthsiasm in check, and STOP letting it drag you like a pair of run away cart horses into ever bigger trouble.
____________________
My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[Arcane1729]

[Hahadumball]

start at 2 or 2.5... dont push down!
let the drill do the work and lightly hold the drill against the stud.

source: fitted fazer engine without checking studs had to drill 2 out in the worse position possible

took me 2 hours to do both
____________________
Fin: no matter how much I look at It I can't understand what was going through my head, all I remember is going about 80 and redlining it to stop it seizing.
360 Deg... Five 1/4 turns. :- Teflon-Mike 18 Jan 2015

[WD Forte]

[Teflon-Mike]

[Commuter_Tim]

Oh this thread just became delicious.
The stupidity in the atmosphere sustains me.

Inb4 "Hammer Drill wasn't enough so I used a real hammer on the drill bit"
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The above post is most likely nonsensical.

I ride a Bandit 600... badly.

[Hahadumball]

[Arcane1729]

[Pete.]

Don't go up in half mm increments it's not necessary and highly likely to snag & break the drill.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Baggyman]

I have put a pillar drill on your credit card. It will be delivered on Monday (because I know where you live)


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Old fart
Baghira, modded GS1000 and the T150 I bought in 1978 when I was 21

[BTTD]

Are you using any kind of cutting fluid / oil?

Of course you're not.

[P.]

[Arcane1729]

[Teflon-Mike]