Gz125 (again) power issue related to revs

[talkToTheHat]

[MarkGoy]

hanks for answering all my questions, I haven't referenced them but its appreciated that you took the time to answer them.

[MarkGoy]

Hello, back again.

So I took the tank and side panels off the have a good look at everything.

I took the carb off and tested the slide again, loose as expected, I found the diaphragm had a tiny bit sticking out the top of the carb, so I undid all that, checked the diaphragm for holes etc etc, none found, made sure to seat the diaphragm properly this time, tested it, found much more resistance to slide.

So happy with that, I also notice the little rubber bit that holds the choke to the carb had worn making the seal... potentially a bit iffy, so i replaced that with my spare.

I then shifted the air box rubber part just a smidgen forward, it had slid back so the rubber was only about half way up the carb errrrrrrr..... "metal bit that sticks out, which obviously is meant to connect to the airbox".

In my excitement i forgot to check the airbox for blockages etc.

I need to do that.

after that I put the bike back together and started it up, I noticed how he choke affects the engine had changed a bit, the engine wouldn't really idle without the choke on.

So i left it and the revs increased over time, so i closed the choke a bit... bla bla bla, engine now warmed up I assume so choke off... runs fine.

change idle screw setting..

So I took the spark plug out and cleaned it best i could, I do have another brand new plug, but I didn't think it necessary to put another brand new one in.

Gave the bike the same test, same route same rough time the engine spends in its silly state. The engine feels like its giving out much more power, I can accelerate uphill (which used to be huge issue) and I can now accelerate in "silly mode" although I think only in 1st and 2nd and very very slowly

"silly mode" has changed a bit , 1st > I can get to roughly 20, 2nd > 30 , 3rd > 30, 4th > 40, 5 > 50

And here we have it, the results ...

I think that shows either a significant improvement or its not running lean anymore? because I dont think that white discoloration is fresh.

unlike pic 2, which is the results from the last test.

[talkToTheHat]

You're getting somewhere. 30 in second with the original gearing is close to maxed out.

Your throttle position sensor is a potentiometer, that is a variable resistor. The suzuki service manual will tell you the resistance for closed throttle and wide open throttle you should be getting. The haynes doesn't. You can check for smooth and linear operation by connecting a multimeter across the wires. If you have 3 wires, there will be a constant reading across one pair, and the other combinations will change in unison to read values that add up to this large value. Follow one of the pairs where the resistance changes across the operation of the throttle from closed to wide open. You should have a smooth progression of readings. A sudden jump to zero or unexpectedly high shows you have a sensor fault, and will need to find the adjustment data before fitting a new TPS.
____________________
Bandit. does. everything.

[MarkGoy]

I've had the t.p.s off and tested it like you said. One pair reads 5000 ohm to 500 oh and the other 350 ohm to 5000ohm. The combined stationary pin reads 5300 ohm.

I tested my spare too, it reads about the same but not exactly.

Change in resistance seems proportional to the twist I'm putting on it.

Hmmm

Edit : the unmoving resistance pins, on one t.p.s it reads 5300 ohm the other 5500 ohm.

Does this mean anything? Anything significant there?