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Rear axle plate upside down - wut do?

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NJD
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PostPosted: 23:06 - 24 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Evil Hans wrote:
Should be OK.


For chain adjustment the workshop PDF states "(1) remove cotter pin (2) loosen the axle (3) loosen locknuts" so in other words it's no different from adjusting the chain but just the same method for another job, I'll crack on tomorrow and report back with how the rear of my bike now resides under a cover on it's side in the hedge.

If the standard tool can do the job then the Halfords spanner should make ease of it. Picture doesn't do it justice but the size of thing could do some damage, bloody heffa.

If anyone needs it there's a visual of what a R pin in a cotter nut looks like here, found via google search.

If anything there's a shop within walking distance that's sells all bits of odd crap so I'll have a field day if I need anything.

https://s2.postimg.org/cof4mv3k9/span1.jpg
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 00:20 - 25 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't need the marks, you can usually move the marks anyway by turning the plate.
Use a steel rule or tape measure and check the distance from the end of the swingarm box section to the edge of the plate, measuring level with the centre line of the spindle. Adjust until it's the same both sides. You could even use some thin card and pencil marks.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 00:59 - 25 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Use a steel rule or tape measure and check the distance from the end of the swingarm box section to the edge of the plate, measuring level with the centre line of the spindle. Adjust until it's the same both sides. You could even use some thin card and pencil marks.


Cheers, I'll keep all that noted.

chris-red wrote:
It's fine to leave IMO. I wouldn't visit the garage again, while it's not remotely dangerous is displays a lack or interest/professional pride I wouldn't trust them to do a decent job.


Slow reply but; get the spanners out anyway because something to do. Realise thread was different direction when posted.

They've saved me more times than they've failed me. But importantly they have received a "you've done it wrong, guv" phone-call from me on one previous occasion after a visit, I fail to recall what for.

Can't say a total loss of business is in my interest but nor is having to correct small faults I've paid a decent whack of money to get done.

Next time I'll need a shop is the valve inspection and, hopefully, beyond that I can tackle all the jobs that arise.

I learned after the Arrow that paying to keep a business running really doesn't earn you anything in return when you can crack on with the tools for a lot less and be non the worse of for it. Plus shops are a sod for stealing things if you don't ask for them back.

Turns out both tyres where on 29psi or thereabouts when they should be 36psi. If there was any reason to "take it easy" on new rubber it's because they'd under inflated them. Thankfully I check my pressures every day and wasn't running with a heavy load on return from the shop so didn't cause any trouble. I'll check again in the morning but both being under inflated at the same level leaves me to believe under inflated rather than an air leak, I'll monitor it. Should I expect a shop to know what PSI the manual recommends for that bike? Asking me wouldn't have gone a miss since I was waiting and looking at bikes all the while.

Boogers. Only confirms that cracking on with doing it all myself is the way forward.
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talkToTheHat
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PostPosted: 05:07 - 25 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:
If the standard tool can do the job then the Halfords spanner should make ease of it. Picture doesn't do it justice but the size of thing could do some damage, bloody heffa.


Never had much luck undoing axle bolts with the underseat toolkit, doing an axle bolt up to 100Nm with such is stand on it.

Big spanner is likely plenty long, compare to the 40cm length I calculated for some small breaker bars. Probably pricier, although I did grab a 8-19mm halfrauds advance set in a damaged box for £15 a few weeks ago... I've had some major troubles getting this undone on my bandit though, but I think that's more due to the lenght of time between chain adjustments.
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Baggyman
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PostPosted: 08:41 - 25 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
You don't need the marks, you can usually move the marks anyway by turning the plate.
Use a steel rule or tape measure and check the distance from the end of the swingarm box section to the edge of the plate, measuring level with the centre line of the spindle. Adjust until it's the same both sides. You could even use some thin card and pencil marks.


String is the thing. You are aligning the front and back wheels so string on both sides from the front pulled tight. Doing it Old School!

String is the new laser Thumbs Up
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 11:43 - 25 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

String off the front wheel is very susceptible to error either by having the bars turned or the forks bent or slightly twisted in the yokes. Also some bikes have the front and rear wheel off-set from each other as standard, seems odd but it's true.

A ruler off the swingarm end is foolproof.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Baggyman
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PostPosted: 12:10 - 25 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
String off the front wheel is very susceptible to error either by having the bars turned or the forks bent or slightly twisted in the yokes. Also some bikes have the front and rear wheel off-set from each other as standard, seems odd but it's true.

A ruler off the swingarm end is foolproof.


Not if you do it right. The string starts at the front so it touches the front wheel on both front and rear edges so the front wheel is dead straight. Also, you are actually aligning the wheels themselves rather than relying on perfect geometry through the forks, frame and swinging arm.

I have never ever heard of a bike with deliberately offset wheels as a design feature (Fatter/thinner is something different and easy to compensate for). An example of one would be appreciated. Even so, if you know the offset, you can easily accommodate it.

If you look at the maths, making a 0.1mm error in measuring with a ruler at the swinging arm would equate to an equivalent error of nearly 2cm divergence at the front wheel. Generally, it is not a good idea to measure locally if any error is going to be magnified like that.

Posh places will do it with a laser. String works in exactly the same way
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 25 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Baggyman wrote:

If you look at the maths, making a 0.1mm error in measuring with a ruler at the swinging arm would equate to an equivalent error of nearly 2cm divergence at the front wheel. Generally, it is not a good idea to measure locally if any error is going to be magnified like that.


You can't measure 0.1mm with a ruler.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Baggyman
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PostPosted: 13:05 - 25 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:

A ruler off the swingarm end is foolproof.

You can't measure 0.1mm with a ruler.


Exactly my point Thumbs Up
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 13:42 - 25 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well you can't be that accurate with a piece of string either and I'd like to challenge your maths too.

If you take a typical swingarm outside to outside edge as 300mm, and a typical motorcycle wheelbase as 1500mm, that's a ratio of 1:5. If you're out 0.1mm on the axle that's only 0.5mm out at the front, not 20mm as you say.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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NJD
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 25 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, what's this?

https://s12.postimg.org/5ajhdz3i5/image.jpg

That, my dear friend, is a man who at quarter past eleven this morning laid his tools out nice and neat thinking he'd get through this in no time.

Oh, what's this?

https://s3.postimg.org/bq19jx0yr/image.jpg

An hour latter was a deflated man who had every tool sprawn out across every imaginable spare space to put your a foot you could imagine.

Two hours after starting and I'm done, I think.

Most of the time was spent half asleep giving my bike the thumbs up while passers by walked past and wondered why I was point my thumb at the bike. I was trying to use (Pete's?) tip of what way a bolt tightens and loosens. Any other time I'd now but the thing was so tight and I was half asleep, and without my cheerios, I'd wondered into a state of "oh where's the bloody end to all this?"

I think the point your standing on a spanner, full weight elevated of the floor, and the nut isn't moving is the point you need to start hitting the gym.

The tool was up to job, I wasn't. Laughing

Anyway I'm done and the nail varnish that I "haven't used" to mark the nuts is back in its place.

The R clip looks safe to take for a ride?

https://s22.postimg.org/hg8b9i3tt/IMG_4583.jpg

I just went with the ring spanner end to tighten the axle and used the manuals tip of turning it one last 30 degree angle so the hole is upright and left it there.

Had to loosen the chain adjuster locknuts, or did anyway, and thought I'd rounded them of when tightening but turns out I was using a spanner size to big hence the slip. Never felt a heart drop so much in all me time. Chain measurements from axle block to end of swingarm is equal and my super legit method of eyeballing with the front tyre point forward looks sound.

I'll kill me self on a test ride in a bit once I've sat down and rested.
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Baggyman
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PostPosted: 15:09 - 25 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Well you can't be that accurate with a piece of string either and I'd like to challenge your maths too.

If you take a typical swingarm outside to outside edge as 300mm, and a typical motorcycle wheelbase as 1500mm, that's a ratio of 1:5. If you're out 0.1mm on the axle that's only 0.5mm out at the front, not 20mm as you say.


That is because you are comparing a radius with a diameter....

....and you can't measure to 0.1mm
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 25 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Baggyman wrote:
Pete. wrote:
Well you can't be that accurate with a piece of string either and I'd like to challenge your maths too.

If you take a typical swingarm outside to outside edge as 300mm, and a typical motorcycle wheelbase as 1500mm, that's a ratio of 1:5. If you're out 0.1mm on the axle that's only 0.5mm out at the front, not 20mm as you say.


That is because you are comparing a radius with a diameter....

....and you can't measure to 0.1mm


Heh, actually I CAN measure to a tenth of that or better. I can also produce surfaces flat to 0.01mm or better using only hand tools.

I don't know what you're on about with the radius/diameter thing I am making reference to neither.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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iansoady
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PostPosted: 17:09 - 25 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The string starts at the front so it touches the front wheel on both front and rear edges so the front wheel is dead straight.



You can't use the string trick properly when the tyres are different sections as you need to offset it from the front wheel. Using it as described (string touching both sides) would mean it was inside the rear tyre.

A good straight piece of board is best.[/quote]
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:35 - 25 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here you go, I've drawn it in CAD, though you can't actually distinguish each element because of the scale you can read the numbers. 300mm spindle, 1500mm wheelbase. If you move the spindle 0.1mm you move the rear wheel centreline 0.5mm at the front spindle, not 20mm.

Baggyman your figgerin' is out by a factor of 40. Doesn't matter if you use 0.1mm, 1mm 2mm or 5mm the ratio is the same (X5) until you surpass the 6 degree small angle rule and you ain't getting the spindle 6 degrees out of line so that's completely academic.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Baggyman
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PostPosted: 19:24 - 25 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:

You can't measure 0.1mm with a ruler.


Pete. wrote:

Heh, actually I CAN measure to a tenth of that or better.


OK.

You have to measure both sides - possibility of two errors. You can consider the pivot point (the centre of an imaginary circle) as either being in the middle of the back axle or at the far end. If you use the far end, you have to double the error to take account of the two measurements (one on each side). The principle obviously being to measure the rotation of the wheel off centre to extrapolate the deviation at the front wheel.

The maths depends on the measurements of the specific bike. The wider the swinging arm, the less the deviation at the front wheel for the same error...so all fag packet maths based on some assumptions about geometry.

Using swinging arm measurements assumes someone made the swinging arm with absolute precision - definitely not the case with any of the old British bikes I have owned. With a box section modern one, things may be more accurate. don't know, never jigged one up. But nothing is dead accurate so there will be some error, particularly on a measurement that the factory would may not see as critical

Anyway, string works for me. If I was doing it everyday, I would get a laser set up. This may well be because I tend to mess about with stuff that has seem a fair bit of abuse and/or made in an old non-CNC environment (Triumph could not even machine the cylinders in parallel back in the 70s!) . For those reasons, I do not trust anything between the wheels to be perfectly square so cut out all of that and do it direct between the wheels. A pair of strait edges would do the job in the same way (and probably easier) but I have never found the need to go that far.

So, if doing it as you suggest works on the bikes you have, measuring with a ruler or the tail on a vernier or whatever other tool then I have no issue with that. I know it would be a long way out on mine.

Btw - those hand tool skills are impressive. You rarely see that nowadays.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 25 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Baggyman wrote:


Btw - those hand tool skills are impressive. You rarely see that nowadays.


You're right, that's why I've spent a good many hours and not a small amount of money learning to do it.

Here is something I did this week. It's a surface plate hand-scraped to better than 40 points per inch. Each blue point is level to each other blue point to better than 0.0025mm and probably half of that. Each point that is not blue is less than 0.005mm away from the blue ones.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Baggyman
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PostPosted: 16:14 - 27 Mar 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Baggyman wrote:


Btw - those hand tool skills are impressive. You rarely see that nowadays.


You're right, that's why I've spent a good many hours and not a small amount of money learning to do it.

Here is something I did this week. It's a surface plate hand-scraped to better than 40 points per inch. Each blue point is level to each other blue point to better than 0.0025mm and probably half of that. Each point that is not blue is less than 0.005mm away from the blue ones.


Nice Smile . Those are the sort of skills you have to use a lot to keep up. It was a pleasure to watch some of the old boys when I worked for Rolls-Royce back in the day.

That's why I will not weld anything structural - happy to knock up some mesh shutters for a garage window or a gate or something but I don't do it often enough to maintain the skill I would want to do something "important".
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