1993 Bandit 400 CDI readings

[Iceycold]

Hi Guys,

I'm new here - so firstly - hello all

My son (bless him), decided to buy a non-running Bandit 400 off of ebay... Then had it delivered to mine asking me to fix it for him... So i am using it to teach him a bit about bikes and mechanics!!

We have sorted the carbs, checked the compression, now it looks like the issue may be electrical, even though we have sparks. I just done think they are great sparks... Changed plugs, leads, and caps. Tested the coils, they seem fine as does the signal/pickup coil. Now i need to test the cdi.

Does anyone have a list of resistance readings for one of these? What I should be seeing from which connectors etc. would be great - if it exists out there?

Ta,

Icey...

[redeem ouzzer]

The only way of testing the CDI is using the proper suzuki box.

If everything else tests up ok then I suggest fitting a chinky CDI which are about £80 on the 'bay. CDI failure does happen as the transistors dry out with age.
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[331X2]

GT200bloke is right about testing the cdi, testing with a multimeter is pish.

I had a Bandit 400 that I bought as a non runner. Changed the capacitors in the Cdi to get me a spark but one of the cylinders would intermittently drop out which turned out to be a borked coil.

If you have a spark at all on both coils I'd lean away from it being the CDI and pickup.

Edit: The Suzuki manual is on the 400greybike forum I think, essential to have if you're fiddling.

[Iceycold]

Hiya,

Thanks for your help and advice so far - you are both right! So I've tested all the electrics I can and I am getting sparks - so will leave the CDI alone for now

Now seems the issue is fuel - namely not enough getting through to the cylinders. Turning over while spraying some easystart in the air box causes a little popping, but nothing much. But last night (in desperation!!) I thought - who needs carbs!! So i removed them totally, and used a syringe to squirt fuel directly into the intake manifolds. The bike fired and revved up till the fuel was spent.

Now - we have previously had the carbs off, cleaned and adjusted - all looks good. I have tried with the tank on and off as i know that sometime the fuel pipe routing can affect - same thing. Float bowls are filling, all jets are clean and clear and the right size. Diaphram's are god and seated correctly.

I haven't tested the compression, but there is good compression and you can feel a good draw by placing you hand over the rear of the carbs etc.

I'm a little baffled....

[331X2]

The carbs on mine were a bastard...

Did you spray carb cleaner through all the drillings in the carb body and see it fire out in another place? Are the carb boots sealing well both around the carb bodies and where they sandwich the o-ring onto the head? Have you roughly set the synchronisation of the carbs with a piece of wire?

[redeem ouzzer]

If you don't know the history of the carbs then you need to start from scratch. Split the bank, ultrasonic them to within an inch of their life, then rebuild with new seals. You'll probably find the needles and tubes are fucked but c'est la vie.
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