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Cagiva Planet 125cc 1999 ....Possible carb issues

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simon2012uk
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PostPosted: 17:41 - 18 Apr 2017    Post subject: Cagiva Planet 125cc 1999 ....Possible carb issues Reply with quote

Hi All

Looking for some help with my Cagiva Planet.

Fancied some 2 stroke fun so picked up this bike just over a month ago.
Apparently all it needed was a new stator as the battery wasn't charging whilst riding.
As always..this wasn't the case Sad

The bike starts ok and runs ok...but as soon as i drop it into gear and try to pull away it instantly bogs down and dies.

If i rev it very high then it will pull away and goes like a little rocket.
Its been in a motorcycle garage for the past month but the mechanic has literally given up on it lol.

Compression was low so its had a new top end, cylinder, piston, rings, con rod and bearings etc. Compression now sorted, it was only a naff ring but replaced the lot.
Also had new powervalve, servo and control box.
New rectifier.
As far as i can tell all electrics now good.

Had the carb off numerous times, all been cleaned numerous times and air blown with compressed air, checked to make sure all jets are the correct size 65,65 and 120.
However it still does the same bog and die when dropped into gear.

Doesnt seem to want to idle either and will just cut out after a few mins warming up. It does seem to run very slightly better on half choke hence assuming that my probz are carb related.

Really lost now aha as was my mechanic.
Any ideas guy/gals?
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Paulf
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 18 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rev it high to pull away....it is dependent on what you call high I was brought up on 2 stroke my father who owned a vellocet venom called my bike a buzzing bee. Brand new 125 cc it needed revs to get away and was high revving 12000 revs redline. It would stall at 4 stroke rev pull off or bog down until it buzzed. But it used to idle ok all day long if I let it. So yes you may have a problem with your idle mixture screw.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 18 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you remove the jets and see through them?
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simon2012uk
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PostPosted: 21:42 - 18 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
Did you remove the jets and see through them?


Replaced with new, but yes all jets clear.....the carbs own fuel filter removed and cleaned also.
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Paulf
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PostPosted: 21:53 - 18 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any air leaks it sounds like a Lean mix too much air or not enough fuel
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simon2012uk
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PostPosted: 12:17 - 19 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paulf wrote:
Any air leaks it sounds like a Lean mix too much air or not enough fuel


No air leaks anywhere, the rubber manifold from carb to engine was a little worn/cracked but it hadnt broke all the way through, anyhow, this was replaced with a good one.

Really am at a loss......im not even 100% its the carb thats the issue, its just ive replaced so much that theres only really the carb left lol.
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P.
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PostPosted: 14:03 - 19 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

How many revs are you pulling away with...
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simon2012uk
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PostPosted: 14:14 - 19 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
How many revs are you pulling away with...


Can't tell for sure as the cagiva planet annoyingly doesn't have a rpm gauge just a speedo pfft. However I'm revving it a lot more than it shld need, and it will just die after a few mins unless I'm caning it.
Thinking I may bite the bullet n fork out for a new carb..... and hope that sorts whatever's going on. 35 years biking n beaten by a bloody 2 stroke grrrr.
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P.
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 19 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you checked the spark plug and replaced it at least. Make sure its running the right one for the engine.

My RS had to be really revved to pull away, more than I'd want.
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UnknownStuntm...
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PostPosted: 14:58 - 19 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not the clutch dragging is it? Sometimes when I've not had mine running (like, actually riding it somewhere) for some time, it doesn't like being knocked into gear. I put it down to syrup in the gearbox, as a few miles seem to sort it out for a while.
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neptune8
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PostPosted: 15:10 - 19 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Possibly worn crankshaft oil seals.
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simon2012uk
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PostPosted: 16:03 - 19 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

UnknownStuntman wrote:
It's not the clutch dragging is it? Sometimes when I've not had mine running (like, actually riding it somewhere) for some time, it doesn't like being knocked into gear. I put it down to syrup in the gearbox, as a few miles seem to sort it out for a while.


Thats something ive not looked at tbh, will av a looky Wink
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simon2012uk
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 19 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
Have you checked the spark plug and replaced it at least. Make sure its running the right one for the engine.

My RS had to be really revved to pull away, more than I'd want.


Yh new and correct plug, Im confident its nothing to do with the electrics now.....im still thinking its a carb issue....just cant think what aha.
Begrudge spending another £100 on a carb though if thats not the prob lol....but think il have to, at least il be able to take something else out of the equation then eh.
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P.
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PostPosted: 16:55 - 19 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buying a new carb is a rash decision, its not likely to be that if its clean and not leaking. Have you done basics like a compression test and seen when it was rebuilt last. If its been standing, its probably got shit seals, any movement on them now will make it worse and they'll fail.

In short, its probably due a rebuild, I'd rather spend a few hundred on that than go down the carb route. Costings etc.
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simon2012uk
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 19 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
Buying a new carb is a rash decision, its not likely to be that if its clean and not leaking. Have you done basics like a compression test and seen when it was rebuilt last. If its been standing, its probably got shit seals, any movement on them now will make it worse and they'll fail.

In short, its probably due a rebuild, I'd rather spend a few hundred on that than go down the carb route. Costings etc.


yh your probably right Paddy, maybe a bit rash, my frustrations starting to show haha.
The bike itself has only done 14,000 genuine miles from new, been pretty well looked after, clearly been garaged and not left outside.
Apparently all was fine until a month after its fresh mot, and then the problems began. I bought it in February and since then its had new cylinder, new piston and rings, con rod and bearings, new spark plug, rectifier, stator, powervalve+servo+control box.......bikes not really been standing either as been in full use until november....
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 18:17 - 19 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's pretty poor advice to say scream it to 12000rpm to pull away without stalling. In fact only a twat would not realise that no manufacturer would make a bike like this and think it acceptable to ride.

Adding to that it's alot lower geared than say a Mito/RS etc. Also having a fully working set up exhaust valve should mean it has a reasonable midrange for two stroke 125.

Certainly as an example on the dyno my KMX 125 at WOT is making 12bhp at just over 6500rpm, and nearly 10bhp at 6000.

If it's Carburation that's the issue, then it sounds too lean low down, but then too rich on the pilot jet can cause no idle too.

Last resort would be to put it on a dyno and see what the fueling is doing as you open the throttle under load to see which way you need to jet to get it right.
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simon2012uk
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PostPosted: 18:39 - 19 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo as b4 wrote:
It's pretty poor advice to say scream it to 12000rpm to pull away without stalling. In fact only a twat would not realise that no manufacturer would make a bike like this and think it acceptable to ride.

Adding to that it's alot lower geared than say a Mito/RS etc. Also having a fully working set up exhaust valve should mean it has a reasonable midrange for two stroke 125.

Certainly as an example on the dyno my KMX 125 at WOT is making 12bhp at just over 6500rpm, and nearly 10bhp at 6000.

If it's Carburation that's the issue, then it sounds too lean low down, but then too rich on the pilot jet can cause no idle too.

Last resort would be to put it on a dyno and see what the fueling is doing as you open the throttle under load to see which way you need to jet to get it right.


Hi Stevo

Must admit i was surprised Cagiva didnt put a tachometer on the Planet (got one on order though)......

The Planet uses the dell'orto PHBH 28 BD carb....whereas the mito i believe uses the dell'orto PHBH 28 BS...as far as i can tell the only difference is the adjustment screws positioning ,
any idea if im ok to use a mito carb? its only because they seem easier to find and a little lower priced than the planet.

So frustrating aha.....as i say, once i get moving the bikes runs great.....its just that initial moving off, im just waiting for the battery to charge..again...then il try some more adjusting on the carb.

Thanks
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Paulf
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PostPosted: 18:50 - 19 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry I was not suggesting rev it to 12000. Apologies but re reading it may seem that's what I was saying. Rev at take slightly higher than a 4 stroke approximately2000-3000 max.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 18:52 - 19 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it didn't really need a tacho, with the way it's set up and geared, the same as trail bikes don't really need a tacho either. You soon get to feel where a two stroke bike likes to be in the Rev range and just keep your left foot moving accordingly.

On a highly tuned Mito or similar, then yeah the tacho is useful for getting every last bit of performance out of it or on track etc. But then all the 125 supermoto bikes those crazy Italians ride don't have tacho's, and some of them are full MX spec 36-40bhp machines, and they manage just fine as well as riding them like loonies everywhere.

I'll probably take the tacho and all instruments off my old KMX 200 when I build it back up, as I want a light off roader that I can play wannabe trials bike with.
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 19:10 - 19 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

simon2012uk wrote:
stevo as b4 wrote:
It's pretty poor advice to say scream it to 12000rpm to pull away without stalling. In fact only a twat would not realise that no manufacturer would make a bike like this and think it acceptable to ride.

Adding to that it's alot lower geared than say a Mito/RS etc. Also having a fully working set up exhaust valve should mean it has a reasonable midrange for two stroke 125.

Certainly as an example on the dyno my KMX 125 at WOT is making 12bhp at just over 6500rpm, and nearly 10bhp at 6000.

If it's Carburation that's the issue, then it sounds too lean low down, but then too rich on the pilot jet can cause no idle too.

Last resort would be to put it on a dyno and see what the fueling is doing as you open the throttle under load to see which way you need to jet to get it right.


Hi Stevo

Must admit i was surprised Cagiva didnt put a tachometer on the Planet (got one on order though)......

The Planet uses the dell'orto PHBH 28 BD carb....whereas the mito i believe uses the dell'orto PHBH 28 BS...as far as i can tell the only difference is the adjustment screws positioning ,
any idea if im ok to use a mito carb? its only because they seem easier to find and a little lower priced than the planet.

So frustrating aha.....as i say, once i get moving the bikes runs great.....its just that initial moving off, im just waiting for the battery to charge..again...then il try some more adjusting on the carb.

Thanks


Hi,
fwiw, CTS doesn't move before 7800rpm (iirc it depends on which control box is fitted, there's a couple of different flavours)
SOME Mitos use exact same carb, in either BD or RD variation & which 1 is fitted makes a HUGE difference ime.
It might help if you listed cylinder code (if its OEM it will have a code on side of cylinder, ie 73037 is fitted to both my mitos),
Cylinder head code (ie 200H),
Which piston kit you used,
CTS control box code..... Thinking

The reason?
A few of us have played around with Cagiva Mitos (& like you say, Planet uses very similar if not identical engine & carb) & have found that its VITAL to have the correct COMBINATION of cylinder, carb etc to get them running well.

Apologies if this has all been covered, my fones playing up so I havnt read all the replies & its taken me about 20mins to write this out Brick Wall

oh, spark plug? tried a good gold palladium tipped variety?
& does it have the original exhaust?

Every planet owner I have come across bemoans the lack of rev counter & usually say they feel like they are revving it too high to set off, but "ride it like you stole it" Smile

cheers,
GAZ
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dansp1
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PostPosted: 09:00 - 23 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has the power valve been set up correctly?
try disconnecting it to make sure it is fully shut and see if that turns it into a torque monster
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 10:20 - 23 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

simon2012uk wrote:
The Planet uses the dell'orto PHBH 28 BD carb....whereas the mito i believe uses the dell'orto PHBH 28 BS...as far as i can tell the only difference is the adjustment screws positioning ,
any idea if im ok to use a mito carb?


If you mean the mixture screw then where it is makes a big difference as to whether it adjusts the flow of fuel, or adjusts the flow of air through the idle circuit. On one type unscrewing it richens the mixture, while on the other tyre unscrewing it leans the mixture.

All the best

Katy
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 10:48 - 23 Apr 2017    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:

If you mean the mixture screw then where it is makes a big difference as to whether it adjusts the flow of fuel, or adjusts the flow of air through the idle circuit. On one type unscrewing it richens the mixture, while on the other tyre unscrewing it leans the mixture.

All the best

Katy


I spent a full morning trying to figure out on my 400 why turning the airscrews in was leaning it up at idle. I was so used to VM Mikuni's where the pilot screw adjusts the flow in the air circuit I just assumed in = rich / out = lean. Evil or Very Mad
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